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jmi786
08-28-10, 22:06
I live in a state that requires a muzzle brake to be permanently attached to the barrel.
What is the best method to do so?
I have heard of silver soldering, welding, pinned then welding
the pin.
Thanks for suggestions.

cnk
08-28-10, 23:49
Both methods are acceptable. Pin and weld is what most folks do. I have a couple that are done that way. I did one with silver solder. You just have to make sure you use the correct silver solder and you get the parts hot enough for the solder to do it's job.

Quiet
08-29-10, 00:27
Note part in bold for what the BATFE considers permanent.



The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and measured.

MistWolf
08-29-10, 07:34
The method least intrusive to the barrel would be the pin & weld. Silver soldering is a form of brazing and the solder can get into the pores of the metal. The barrel and the muzzle device must be heated enough for the solder to flow. The metal must be again heated if you need to remove the device and the area cleaned before replacement of the device.

Welding fuses the metal of the pieces together. That means you must melt the metals of the barrel as well as the muzzle device and the heat can have a negative affect on the barrel. The weld must be ground away to remove the device and you risk damaging the barrel

Pin & weld requires a divot to be drilled into the barrel surface just deep enough so the pin locks the device to keep it from being turned. A small rosette weld is limited to the muzzle device and the pin. Since the rosette weld is simply a cap, you don't have to fuse the pin to the muzzle device and heat can be localized to a small area of the muzzle device. For removal, simply grind away the weld and remove the pin and the device should thread off. Damage is limited to the device.

Since the barrel is being pinned to meet a state requirement and not a federal requirement (i.e., meeting minimum barrel length requirements), it would be wise to find out what the state considers a permanent attachment. It's possible the state requirement is easier to meet

cevtv
08-29-10, 18:44
This is mine, pinned & welded, to meet MA law.


http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/cevtv/IMG_0468.jpg

j_king
09-01-10, 21:03
Pin and weld is most common and relatively easy if you have the proper tools.

Silver solder requires heating the FH and barrel to VERY hot temps and some dislike the fact that it can discolor the finish on their barrel/FH.

bigdrty
09-02-10, 05:26
Just loctite It!

j/k Get a Couple spot welds and you are GTG!

Drty..

tactical1
09-02-10, 05:51
As shown in the picture, the pin and weld is visible. The gunsmith who installed mine indicated he was told by local BATFE rep the weld should be visible vs grinding smooth. He indicated they BATFE would want to see the 'permanent' nature of the installation.

Don't think Loctite meets the criteria for permanent installation

Blowby
09-02-10, 13:41
Pin'd and welded on my 14.5. The only draw back is you can't clock it if you need to after the install.