View Full Version : BCG Lube?
blackjack_03
08-31-10, 13:47
I am new to the ar and was wondering what kind of lubricant i should use on the bcg.
I'm not an expert, but I know that this doesn't have to be a difficult choice. Anything that provides lubricity and stays where you put it will work. The most important parts to lube are the bolt, the cam pin and any of the "shiny" surfaces on the BCG. Lubing the whole thing won't hurt of course.
I don't like Breakfree CLP because it evaporates even when the gun is not being used.
Edit: I'm assuming you are looking at using some type of oil. Some people like grease, but I've never tried that.
JR TACTICAL
08-31-10, 14:15
try Silp2000, I have been using it for about 6 months and It works great, they say its good for 1000 rounds before you need to re apply but I do it every 250-300. its really thick and stays in place unlike breakfree CLP, but like the other guy said, anything that lubricates will work
Mpro7 seems to work good...
we haven't had a good lube fight in a while.. this oughtta be fun.
i'm currently using Mobile 1 0w20 to lube after cleaning.. heavy application to all interior metal parts, wipe with oily rag to outside steel parts.
i then re-lube during firing with a mix of 0w20 and PB Blaster penetrating oil. it relubes and helps break up the mud.
just what i'm currently doing... i change my lube types and methods about every 6 months, it seems... and my guns always run. so in other words- just make sure it's oil, and it's wet.
ETA- the only stuff i've found to be detrimental to function is thick oil additives, like Hyperlube.. thought i'd be smart and add some of that to a batch a made a while ago.. seemed like it would add some sticky viscosity, but all it did was turn into paste in the gun.
fmhscopeland
08-31-10, 14:53
I clean and lube everything i own with BreakFree CLP.. Appears to be working well so far and stays where i put it. Next will be FP10, Heard it is a little thicker which CLP wouldent hurt to be a tad bit thicker
I use FP-10. Liberal application on the BCG. Somewhat high viscosity (the thicker the oil, the longer it will last on the weapon) and it doesn't evaporate.
kaiservontexas
08-31-10, 15:24
I have heard good things about Mobil 1. I use machine gunners lube. I did not have to buy it. LaRue Tactical always gives it to me in orders. I even have gotten a big bottle of it and not just those little ones. I use breakfree clp also . . .
Thomas M-4
08-31-10, 15:31
Mobil 1 synth 5w-20w same oil I use in the truck, same in my wifes car I even put the stuff in the lawn mower if it needs it.
GermanSynergy
08-31-10, 15:48
I use Slip 2000 EWL and Larue Machinegun Lube on my AR's and handguns, and clean with M PRO 7.
first i tried REM oil..evaporated like crazy when it was stored, would come home off tour to a bone-dry BCG. just wasnt consistent.
Machine Gunners lube.. nice n thick, works pretty good. big fan.
now i currently i drench my BCG in break free-clp. been great so, far, does evaporate after sitting a while like some of you stated. not near as bad as the rem oil tho.
think i might try the mobil 1 trick. lots of good talk about it. and cheap!
Belmont31R
08-31-10, 16:03
Just about any oil will work. You just have to make sure you apply more as it gets burned off.
I use SLIP EWL because it doesn't burn off as fast as CLP. I use CLP on a rag to wipe the exterior off with because it has better corrosion resistance than EWL.
I think Im going to try Mobil 1 just because its cheap for as little as you go through it. One bottle of EWL will buy you 2 quarts of Mobile 1, and a quart will last you 20 years. I use Mobile 1 for our cars anyways so I always have it sitting around.
mobile 1 for gun lube. Cheap and wet. All day.
RogerinTPA
08-31-10, 16:26
Slip EWL, Weapons Shield, any synthetic motor oil will do. I prefer Royal Purple.
WallyWorld synthetic 5W-30. Has worked well in high round count classes for both pistol and carbine. Cheap.
SLiP2000, Machine Gunner's Lube, CLP, Mobil One, Weapons Shield, and various other engine oils with lower viscosities will work. The differences will lie in how often they have to be applied. Some swear by grease but it would seem(and I haven't tested it) that it would hold onto dirt and other particulate matter more than an oil. Maybe we can get IraqG to weigh in on what has worked in the sandbox(in large scale application).
.
I started using KG-4 about 2000 rounds ago and I've noticed it lasts way longer than CLP. I've got about 1400 rounds without cleaning or a failure only lubing with KG-4. I lube about every 250-350 rounds but have gone as long as 500.
KG-4 keeps the gun wet for about 400-500 rounds. I don't do relentless mag dumps but I probably do 30-round mags in <2 minutes 7 or 8 times out of 500 rounds. For a majority of the time, I shoot 10-round groups in about 1 minute. So, I get the gun "hot" enough to smoke several times an outing and the KG-4 seems to stay in place and keep it running.
imho, I think as long as a quality AR is lubed (wet) it will work. Some lubes last longer than others, you just need to find out how long your lube lasts and make sure you're keeping your gun "wet".
.
we haven't had a good lube fight in a while.. this oughtta be fun.
Used to be the main topic of discussion here. Could have called this site M4lubrication.com/
Blackjack,
Welcome to the forum.
Not to be an ass or anything, but do read around here a good bit. There are quite a few threads on this topic.
Here's a helpful article by Larry Vickers on Weapon Lubrication (http://vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/weapon-lubrication/).
The general concensus is more is better.
I have used Breakfree, RemOil, MiliTec, M-Pro 7, Slip2000 and SlipEWL, and Weapon Shield.
My current favorites are Slip EWL and WeaponShield. For me WeaponShield stays in place a little better but the Slip is easier to find.
I personally recommend Slip2000 and Weaponshield. Both have worked well for me. I also used FP-10 in a previous life.
Bug Juice for me. 1 part ATF, 1 part STP Engine Oil Treatment, 1 part 10w fully synthetic diesel engine oil by Isuzu (Any on hand would do fine though) and 10% hoppes 9.
fmhscopeland
08-31-10, 20:56
Sounds like you need a Jigger for that :haha:
If I'm paying: SLIP.
If Uncle Sam's buyuing: TW-25B or one of the other Mil-COMMs like MC2500 or 3000.
I've run TW-25B and/or MC3000 exclusively for several years in Iraq/'stan w/o a problem...and some of that was in an extremely sandy environment.
As previously posted, it does seem to trap and hold dirt, but I suspect oil is doing the same thing. The difference with the grease is it seems to get "pushed out of the way" and carries the dirt with it.
Whatever's free?
Sprinco's Machine Gunners Lube (the stuff that LaRue gives away in very small quantities) has been very good to me.
Whatever you get, you can use an old eye dropper (just pull the top off with your fingers) for get more control, and less waste. Make that 4 oz bottle go the distance! Just remove the Visine label so you don't put some in your eye :eek:
I use TW25B on the BCG & Militec-1 on rotating pins, springs, etc. When I run out of Militec I'll use the Amsoil that I use in my truck.
It's a lot of personal preference.
Regardless of what you use, ensure you use a proper amount and repeat when needed!
For grease I like TW25B and for oil I like Militec-1. Also known to use WeaponShield. Pretty much I'd use any petroleum-based oil if it came down to it. Fact is, it doesn't really matter much--SO LONG AS YOU KEEP IT LUBED!!
devildogljb
09-02-10, 03:16
Im running mine on hoppes 9 gun grease cant be happier with it, plus you dont have to worry about the grease running off what ever you have greased. But it just comes down to what your pref is try a few and go from there
Why is it that everyones first choice of motor oil is mobil1? What does it offer that you couldn't get out of any other brand of motor oil? just curious
Why is it that everyones first choice of motor oil is mobil1? What does it offer that you couldn't get out of any other brand of motor oil? just curious
it's cheap and available everywhere... call it coincidence.
SLiP 2000 EWL... go big or go home :D
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/70/slipv.jpg
Why is it that everyones first choice of motor oil is mobil1? What does it offer that you couldn't get out of any other brand of motor oil? just curious
Probably because a lot of people use Mobile 1 for their vehicles and already have it on hand. All in all, Mobile 1 is very popular - for both vehicles and guns ;)
Thomas M-4
09-02-10, 09:13
Mobil1 is the best oil you can get easily off the self at wal-mart and autozone and Advance carries it. There is better oil on the market but wally world and most parts stores don't stock it. And I am the person that is not going to drive 20 miles out of my way just to try to find Redline or Amsoil oil. :no:
For the bolt and BC components, I use some kind of red grease that I picked up as an afterthought because of the pointy syringe delivery device it came in. For light lubrication, just like in my car, I use whatever lubricant is available and cheap.
Why is it that everyones first choice of motor oil is mobil1? What does it offer that you couldn't get out of any other brand of motor oil? just curious
I use Castrol Syntec 10W30. ;)
m1a_scoutguy
09-02-10, 09:53
I'll throw another vote out for Machine Gunners Lube from LARUE,,I received my first trial bottle with a order,,tried it & never looked back !! Its thick enough,,yet moves enough to get everywhere & Lasts along time !! I have a buddy that uses the Slip 2000 stuff,,& he really like's it,,,,so I will try that sometime I'm sure !!!
Most important is run something,,,Below is a Quote from Larry V website,,,bottom line is use something and don't be afraid to lay it on there,,,:D
The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry. Truer words have never been spoken about weapons lubricant.
I have a bottle of stuff I did: Mobile 1 with a bit of TETRALUBE in it. The tetra will congeal, so you have to shake it. But... I figure that the silicon will leave a film of 'dry lube' on the metal even when the oil goes elsewhere...
GermanSynergy
09-02-10, 11:10
Any lube is better than running a gun dry.... The sound of a dry AR action at a a carbine class is, well.... like fingernails on a chalkboard to me..... :fie:
The last class I was in, a student had an M&P 15 that was bone dry, and was malfunctioning as a result. A very generous application of LaRue MG Lube to the BCG/Bolt/gas rings quickly remedied the problem.
The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry. Truer words have never been spoken about weapons lubricant.
It's entertaining to see the torture tests, but as an OLD ex-Marine, I'd never do it to any of my personal guns. Any properly lubricated machine will run longer than a dry one. A gun is no exception. As a general rule, if it slides, I put grease on it. If it rotates, I put oil on it.
I have been using this with great results. Stays on and keeps parts moving smoothly.
http://schaefferoil.com/images/Supreme9000.jpg
After looking at my notes 500-700 rounds between cleaning and it's a hand wipe on most areas.
Longest round count 900 rounds in 3 hours.
I use Castrol Syntec 10W30. ;)
Same here. Only downside is that it smells pretty bad after a few rds.
Blankwaffe
09-02-10, 23:02
My preference is to use weapon Shield CLP applied as sheen on the BCG,with a dabb of Weapon Shield Grease on the cam pin and the hammer face.
Ive run Weapon Shield on everything I can get my grubby lunch hooks on that goes bang with no complaints from me or the weapons.That said,in my opinion Weapon Shield is the best CLP on the market right now,so thats what I'd recommend at least trying.YMMV
Also,I believe Weapon Shield is giving out samples again,so there is the chance to try it on their dime too.
kaltesherz
09-02-10, 23:02
We used Militec in my old unit and it worked well, so I acquired a sizable amount when I got out for home use. If I had to pay for it I'd try Slip2000 or maybe just use motor oil. I have a lot of CLP lying around, but I only use it for cleaning and oiling the outside of the weapon as a rust preventative, it sucks as a lube as it burns up too fast and Militec blows as a rust preventative.
hippieslayer
09-03-10, 00:11
I use whatever is in front of me; which is usually Machine Gunners Lube, Mobile 1 15w50 or Lucas Gun Oil. My gun always runs.
Eurodriver
09-03-10, 01:58
We used Militec in my old unit and it worked well, so I acquired a sizable amount when I got out for home use. If I had to pay for it I'd try Slip2000 or maybe just use motor oil. I have a lot of CLP lying around, but I only use it for cleaning and oiling the outside of the weapon as a rust preventative, it sucks as a lube as it burns up too fast and Militec blows as a rust preventative.
Yup, CLP is the best rust-preventative agent I've ever found. Even things that specifically are made to prevent rust can't beat CLP.
That said, CLP is not the best Cleaner or Lubricant by any means. Its a good general clean-up fluid at best.
I use whatever is in front of me; which is usually Machine Gunners Lube, Mobile 1 15w50 or Lucas Gun Oil. My gun always runs.
They make a 15W fully synthetic? Is this under the Delvac line for commercial vehicles?
Lucas Oil Stabilizer works well on the bcg. It is pure petroleum. Also smear a dab along the charging handle channel in the upper. Break Free CLP is one of the best rust prevenatives I have used.
On West Point's Combat Weapons Team, we've been using TW25B (both grease and oil) for the past year with excellent results at very high round counts, replacing previously used CLP and LSA.
Globemaster
09-27-10, 22:14
My preference is to use weapon Shield CLP applied as sheen on the BCG,with a dabb of Weapon Shield Grease on the cam pin and the hammer face.
Ive run Weapon Shield on everything I can get my grubby lunch hooks on that goes bang with no complaints from me or the weapons.That said,in my opinion Weapon Shield is the best CLP on the market right now,so thats what I'd recommend at least trying.YMMV
copy that!
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac314/AR15_Oly1/DSCN2436.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h261/globemaster_oly/DSCN6713.jpg
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac314/AR15_Oly1/DSCN2310.jpg
Motul motor oil synthetic(always have 1/2 a quart left after oil change) ester bassed true synthetic. seems to work.
Ordered a can of royal purple from larue and have been quite impressed, took all the grit/drag feel out of my stock trigger. stays wet, wipes clean, and respray - all relativity cheap. i dont have any info on this stuff, and it may be the same thing i use in my transaxle in spray form?
i clean everything except bores with the clp now.
for 3(4?) casses of silver bear with the red shit, i cleaned my gun with gunscrubber then sprayed it down with remdry lube, had to rebuild my bolt, but FTF and the ss stopped. I use this on most of my boltguns also, d/t open actions. its the only thing ive found to make my savage smooth short of greese.
I've had excellent results with TW-25B.
EchoMirage
09-28-10, 22:47
Mobil1 is the best oil you can get easily off the self at wal-mart and autozone and Advance carries it. There is better oil on the market but wally world and most parts stores don't stock it. And I am the person that is not going to drive 20 miles out of my way just to try to find Redline or Amsoil oil. :no:
M1 5w30 is the WORST oil you can buy. their latest batches have improved slightly, but not enough for me to use it. ive see the oil analysis results. M1 has been shown to break down enough to induce engine wear in as little as 1000 miles. the cheapest, no-name dino oil has proven a better oil then M1.
the one and ONLY reason people think its the best is because of marketing. youre blasted with commercials saying M1 is the best oil ever.....and thats as far as the typical consumer goes for his research. i used to use M1, then heard the facts. i instantly switched to german castrol 0w30 and havent looked back. its hands down the best oil for LS1s and all LSx engines, and i cant imagine it doing any harm in anything else. i gave away 10qts of M1 when i switched, and wouldnt use it in my lawnmower.
their 10w40 line is better, but still not as good as other top tier oils. personally, after seeing how it breaks down so easily, i wouldnt use it as a gun lube either. ive been using gunslick grease for years in pistols and my AR, and havent had any complaints.
Would royal purple 5w30 work?? what are the pros and cons of engine oil if any?
abanks8245
09-29-10, 00:01
Tetra gun grease primary and breakfree clp for a quick wipedown runs fine so far in my weapons I kinda wanna try this slip 2000 that everybody talks about
Would royal purple 5w30 work?? what are the pros and cons of engine oil if any?
there's a few people in this very thread that said they use it, as well as mobil 1 and some others. so long as it's synthetic, it'll work just fine.
conventional works too, but it burns and smells like shit.
Globemaster
09-29-10, 00:26
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac314/AR15_Oly1/DSCN3804.jpg
Break Free CLP has done very well on a few corrosion tests I have seen. I am using that and also trying Mpro-7 LPX - though I have no evidence it is better than Break Free.
I will only use something which meets the requirements of MIL-L-63460 revision “E.”
People say stuff like 'I don't want a CLP because it does not lube as well as a pure lube and I use a separate cleaner when I clean.'
Yeah, but.... I want something that dislodges carbon as it builds up when I shoot as I keep on adding the product rather than cleaning.
And I certainly want a "P" to reduce corrosion. It is not clear that Mobil-1 has anywhere near the corrosion resistance of Break Free.
So CLP it is for me.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
http://img134.exs.cx/img134/7769/eezoxrusttest1px7ml.jpg
Eezox wins corrosion, with Break Free second. I will pick BF CLP as I am not sure how Eezox is for a lube as far as keeping an AR wet.
we haven't had a good lube fight in a while.. this oughtta be fun.
i change my lube types and methods about every 6 months, it seems... and my guns always run. so in other words- just make sure it's oil, and it's wet.
Isn't that the truth!
I have a box full of lubes I've tried, and truth is, they're all good.
I've used Ballistol, Break Free CLP, Eezox, Corrosion X for guns, LaRue "machine gun lube", and my current favorite, Slip 2000 EWL.
Keep it clean, keep it lubed, and go have fun.
Why does it seem like everytime we have one of these threads it turns into a scientific round table on how to build a nuclear weapon?
Yes, motor oil works and so will Vagisil and whatever else. But, would you put Slip2000 in your cars engine? I wouldn't.
Why not stick with a quality gun lubricant instead of looking for reasons not to?
Now, if the world was ending tomorrow or I was in the middle east surrounded by a 1000 jihadis and all I had was motor oil it would be a no brainer. Sometimes the simplest solution is the most obvious.
I have personally found that Weaponshield and Slip2000 work very well. I have also used Militec and it worked more than adequately.
Thomas M-4
09-29-10, 21:17
M1 5w30 is the WORST oil you can buy. their latest batches have improved slightly, but not enough for me to use it. ive see the oil analysis results. M1 has been shown to break down enough to induce engine wear in as little as 1000 miles. the cheapest, no-name dino oil has proven a better oil then M1.
the one and ONLY reason people think its the best is because of marketing. youre blasted with commercials saying M1 is the best oil ever.....and thats as far as the typical consumer goes for his research. i used to use M1, then heard the facts. i instantly switched to german castrol 0w30 and havent looked back. its hands down the best oil for LS1s and all LSx engines, and i cant imagine it doing any harm in anything else. i gave away 10qts of M1 when i switched, and wouldnt use it in my lawnmower.
their 10w40 line is better, but still not as good as other top tier oils. personally, after seeing how it breaks down so easily, i wouldnt use it as a gun lube either. ive been using gunslick grease for years in pistols and my AR, and havent had any complaints.
Thats funny I have personal seen and torn down 3 different engines that used M1 synth 2 of them had been overheated to the point fetal detonation burned exhaust valves and badly scorched piston tops. The M1 still looked like motor oil. I can tell you that at 260 degree indicated temp that most other oils just turn solid tar you can hear the oil frying sounds just like you are frying batch of french fries.
The other blew the crank out over the free-way at 6400 RPM when the balancer flew apart unicorn jizz wouldn't have helped that:rolleyes:
Now I have used castrol for many years its good oil but at 260 ind temp it don't look as good. Test it for yourself;)
EchoMirage
09-29-10, 22:10
i have. thats why i dont use it anymore
Longhunter7
10-12-10, 15:33
Has anyone ever tried Kano Kroil as a BCG lube? Bench rest shooters even use it as a bore solvent.
It is said to get underneath fouling and make it easier to remove. There have been accounts of it freeing up engines that have been frozen for years from sitting.
It is a penetrator like Liquid Wrench and too thin.
justin_247
10-12-10, 15:57
There have been accounts of it freeing up engines that have been frozen for years from sitting.
Just because I'm mechanically inclined, you have peaked my interest. Have any links I can read?
EchoMirage
10-12-10, 16:33
There have been accounts of it freeing up engines that have been frozen for years from sitting.
pretty sure WD-40 or anything similar will do the same
Longhunter7
10-12-10, 17:14
I ran my carbine wet with Kroil and put 400+ rounds downrange in two days. I've had no problems and it cleaned up easy.
Am I in need of something with a higher viscosity?
I have been using Kroil with the military vehicle I am restoring and have had great results, and decided to give it a try.
justin_247, I found the engine information with Kroil on the Power Wagon forum.
.
I have used Kroil for 25+ years as a penetrant on everything from gas turbine parts to cryogenic pumps. I have never found anything that works better. Kroil works way better than WD-40, LiquidWrench, etc. Every few years some sales guy comes around and gives us a trial of some stuff that cures cancer and is the ultimate penetrant. I just give it to the millwrights and wait for their verdict. They’ve yet to asked for anything other than Kroil.
WD-40 is great for removing stickers and displacing moisture in a distributor cap. I've never met a gunsmith that had a single good thing to say about WD-40.
On an AR, it might be better than Vagisil but why?? Kroil is not a lubricant; it might lubricate some light duty delicate parts and it is probably better than nothing for a short while but it is way too thin to be of any use on a hot AR.
Since Kroil is such a great penetrant, I can see how it might help dissolve carbon build up, especially if it was soaked in it. But it is not an AR lubricant.
I think some peculiar lubricant choices are how certain people try to “express” themselves and be "different". I guess they are “ar-teests”.
.
As previously posted, it does seem to trap and hold dirt, but I suspect oil is doing the same thing. The difference with the grease is it seems to get "pushed out of the way" and carries the dirt with it.
That would be one of the primary functions of lubrication.
Proper lubrication does five basic jobs - It reduces friction, cleans by lifting particulate matter and allows the swiping action of clearanced parts to remove it, it cushions, it cools and it protects.
Anything that doesn't do this is not a good lube.
That is why the "excessive lubrication attracts dirt" crowd is full of shit.
Used to be the main topic of discussion here. Could have called this site M4lubrication.com/
:D:D funny
On topic: I use slp2000 ewl when I lube it at home after home cleaning and then in field if necessary I just hit it with a lil clp
Longhunter7
10-12-10, 23:09
Thanks for all the input. I've got plenty of CLP and I will stick with that. I save the Kroil for the rusty bolts!
spamsammich
10-12-10, 23:26
we haven't had a good lube fight in a while.. this oughtta be fun.
i'm currently using Mobile 1 0w20 to lube after cleaning.. heavy application to all interior metal parts, wipe with oily rag to outside steel parts.
i then re-lube during firing with a mix of 0w20 and PB Blaster penetrating oil. it relubes and helps break up the mud.
just what i'm currently doing... i change my lube types and methods about every 6 months, it seems... and my guns always run. so in other words- just make sure it's oil, and it's wet.
ETA- the only stuff i've found to be detrimental to function is thick oil additives, like Hyperlube.. thought i'd be smart and add some of that to a batch a made a while ago.. seemed like it would add some sticky viscosity, but all it did was turn into paste in the gun.
How do you not puke your guts out from sniffing PB Blaster? I hate the smell of that shit. It's worse than transmission oil. I get a major headache from it when I'm working on cars, I couldn't imagine smelling burnt PB or having my schnozz inches away from it. You're made of sterner stuff than I. Gonna stick with Slip 2000 for now, I see no reason to change.
How do you not puke your guts out from sniffing PB Blaster? I hate the smell of that shit. It's worse than transmission oil. I get a major headache from it when I'm working on cars, I couldn't imagine smelling burnt PB or having my schnozz inches away from it. You're made of sterner stuff than I.
i have a huge power vent in the shop... 'cause you're right, it's got a strong odor. the loob mix i use in the field actually doesn't really smell. just a few squirts into the carrier vent holes, and back to action.. either it's not enough to notice, or the oil i mix it with absorbs the odor- don't know. but i'm obviously not as sensitive to it- so it could just be that i don't notice 'cause i don't care.
i think it's a great cleaner, though.. it's what i've been using for cleaning for about a year, maybe more. just flip the fan on, and spray away.
I can't believe how much over-thinking is going on here.
brownbeaux
10-13-10, 02:28
As my first post I have to agree with Iraqgunz. Any of the above recommendations should work great. Although I don't recommend it, I have even in an extreme situation pissed in mine...:sarcastic:
That would be one of the primary functions of lubrication.
Proper lubrication does five basic jobs - It reduces friction, cleans by lifting particulate matter and allows the swiping action of clearanced parts to remove it, it cushions, it cools and it protects.
Anything that doesn't do this is not a good lube.
That is why the "excessive lubrication attracts dirt" crowd is full of shit.
I lost that argument in Afghanistan. I told my troops to slather their M240s with CLP and they did, until my XO overheard them repeating what I said and told 'em to stop.
jklaughrey
10-13-10, 08:59
Well if it works to cool down a mortar tube or work as radiator fluid , I suppose it could lubricate to a small degree. LOL...Wolverines!
Heavy Metal
10-13-10, 09:00
I can't believe how much over-thinking is going on here.
That's ok. The opposite is taking place somewhere else. Just keeps the Universe in balance.
Kind of a side note on the M1 Synthetic. I ran it in my GMC 2500HD diesel for a bit and sent off the M1 Syn after 5000 miles for an analysis. Just like one of the other poster's said it's crap, relatively speaking that is. They recommended oil changes after every 3K miles because of the metal particals and viscosity break down. I switched to Valvoline Blue Extreme Synthetic and did the same thing after 5000 miles. Analysis came back with a recommended oil change cycle of every 12K miles.
ewells2420
10-13-10, 09:51
Went to wally world yesterday and was looking for gun lube. Came across something called Remington or something like that. Had not heard of it so said screw it and got 5w20 mobil 1. Lubed up last night and seems good to me. And then I coated my AR15 in it too.
Being a new guy myself what do you guys think about using high temp wheel bearing grease? It does stay put and handles high temps quite well from what I can tell. If not what about lubiplate? I know that is what is recommended for use on the moving parts on an M1 Garand.
Being a new guy myself what do you guys think about using high temp wheel bearing grease? It does stay put and handles high temps quite well from what I can tell. If not what about lubiplate? I know that is what is recommended for use on the moving parts on an M1 Garand. Not on the M4. It wants CLP or gun oil.
www.m4lubesite.com. :confused:
I lost that argument in Afghanistan. I told my troops to slather their M240s with CLP and they did, until my XO overheard them repeating what I said and told 'em to stop.
Which plays to my point that the .mil is chock full of dumbshits and bad gouge on weapons maintenance.
brownbeaux
10-13-10, 22:32
Which plays to my point that the .mil is chock full of dumbshits and bad gouge on weapons maintenance.
Not to mention lack of training on such weapons!
I use Redline synthetic. The same stuff I use in my motorcycle. works great and won't burn off.
I have heard of some people using a lightweight synthetic motor oil as a lubricant for their AR. Suppose to be more resistant to the heat of the action.
Does it work? How well?
KentuckyWindage
10-14-10, 18:28
mobil 1 been using it for years
fivefivesix
10-14-10, 19:28
Mobil 1 synth 5w-20w same oil I use in the truck, same in my wifes car I even put the stuff in the lawn mower if it needs it.
i use the same. im a mechanic by trade and motor oil helps break carbon fouling and hold it in the oil so in therory it should work the same on the bcg. and mobil is slick stuff. my gun loves it
jetspeed8
I'm with you. Redline Racing Oil is a generation ahead of Mobile 1.
It is a group V ester based oil and the racing oil has a high load of EP additives (no longer in over the road oils) without the detergents etc that over the road syn oils have. I use the "50W" and it stays put and works at -20F here in Vermont.
I have also had good results mixing it 50/50 with Eezox for better corrosion protection.
Ester based oils are also good solvents and they tend to keep firing residue in suspension making cleaning easier and helping to prevent weapon malfunctions. However, not good for dusty environments.
Is anyone else concerned about the toxins in petroleum based solvents and lubes? This is one of the reasons I bought a bottle of Gunzilla. It seems to work pretty good, but it does not seem to do as well at cleaning as some of the petroleum based products.
jklaughrey
10-15-10, 14:40
Check out the Mpro-7 line. They are non toxic and work pretty well.
http://www.mpro7.com/
I am currently working on my own mixture of stuff to come up with the ideal lube. This is what I have so far.
4 tablespoons of Caro syrup (clear) to aid in adhesion. I tube of Vagisil to allow for a better lubrication factor and 1 pint of synthetic motor oil. I combine all of these in a container and mix it well.
jklaughrey
10-15-10, 16:13
IG I hope you are kidding brother. Karo Syrup crystalizes when heat is applied. And vagisil...LOL you can keep that smell.
Thomas M-4
10-15-10, 16:15
I am currently working on my own mixture of stuff to come up with the ideal lube. This is what I have so far.
4 tablespoons of Caro syrup (clear) to aid in adhesion. I tube of Vagisil to allow for a better lubrication factor and 1 pint of synthetic motor oil. I combine all of these in a container and mix it well.
Pssst What no magical unicorn jizz:lol:
4 tablespoons of Caro syrup (clear) to aid in adhesion. I tube of Vagisil to allow for a better lubrication factor and 1 pint of synthetic motor oil. I combine all of these in a container and mix it well.
You need to add two ounces of strawberry douche to that mix.
Keeps it clean, and smells wonderful. :p
Thomas M-4
10-15-10, 16:31
Best SHTF/TEOTWAWKI multi purpose lube ever because when it gets shitty you need the best.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/K-Y.jpg/250px-K-Y.jpg
jklaughrey
10-15-10, 16:32
Let's not forget McD's "Big Mac" secret sauce mixed with bacon fat to offend the Hadji's.
FP10, I use it on every gun I own because I bought a gallon jug 10 years ago.
Yes, I am kidding. I just wanted to show how much over thinking is happening here.
I just placed an order for more Weapon Shield and Slip2000.
IG I hope you are kidding brother. Karo Syrup crystalizes when heat is applied. And vagisil...LOL you can keep that smell.
bsmith_shoot
10-18-10, 09:52
Mobil 1 full synthetic. 5w-20. Using it for about 18 months(same bottle) in a BCM rifle with excellent results. Stays where you put it, and helps when I clean my rifle.
MrMilspecer
10-18-10, 10:01
I am new to the ar and was wondering what kind of lubricant i should use on the bcg.
Heres what I do http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g&feature=PlayList&p=930E297148D482ED&index=0&playnext=1
I use CLP, it works just fine... I have also uzed gunzilla... gunzilla does a good job as well, but I feel as it dries out faster than the CLP...
I heard once that mixing different brand lubricants in the same rifle should not be done. I don't mean switching up what you use, I mean having two different brand or types of lubricant in your gun at the same time is a no-no. Is this true or was I told wrong? If it is true whats the danger there?
Littlelebowski
10-18-10, 14:21
It's a non issue, not worth worrying about. They all do the same thing.
Just as in your car, mixing brands and types of lubricants for your rifle is fine.
Not an issue. You're probably thinking of hydraulic fluids in aircraft, mixing those is a bad idea...
eternal24k
10-18-10, 16:45
I mix oil and grease all the time to get the viscosity I want, I do try to use similar materials though, but i doubt it makes much of a difference
Heavy Metal
10-18-10, 17:27
It can be a problem. I know for a fact that G-96, a plasticizer based lube will turn to glue when you let it come in contact with Break-Free CLP.
I know because I had hell taking the guns apart just to get the gunk out.
Sledge Hammer
10-18-10, 18:31
long time luker first poster I have two questions.The first one that I have'nt seen addressed when talking lubrication ,is there a difference in lube for the inital break in period,say for the first 500 rds.while the parts are mating up?ie. a lite lube but plenty of it,more than you would normaly use,so any metal shavings or other debris are washed away or maybe a grease type that may trap some of this,and create a sort of polishing compound?or a combination of the two? lol,I know,I know I'm over thinking this!
the second is what do the SME's think of the video posted,I can see using greese to reduce friction but would'ent you also use a lighter lube in conjunctionwith it to reduce heat and keep any foreign materals in supension?
MrMilspecer
10-18-10, 19:03
the second is what do the SME's think of the video posted,I can see using greese to reduce friction but would'ent you also use a lighter lube in conjunctionwith it to reduce heat and keep any foreign materals in supension?
Think about what a wheelbearing goes through in one 600 mile trip on a hot day. Its not like wont clean it after shooting or at least a few times a year. :sarcastic: Using grease makes sense to me it stays in place and my m4 has run flawless so far. I still use machine oil on the smaller moving parts. I am no expert by any means and only use it because it makes sense to me. Any lube is better than none. I also wouldnt put light oil over grease. It would thin the grease. Use oil go fire 100 rds and check your bolt and the 4 contact rails. Do the same with grease and make your own judjment. These ARs are so easy to takedown and clean i wouldnt be so worried about metal shavings. With all my new guns I clean before I shoot, fire 5 shots and clean looking for shavings. I fire 5 more repeat, fire 10 then clean after that i shoot the shit out of them. Best of luck to you.
grendelbane
10-18-10, 19:28
I am sure that you can run into combinations that might cause problems, but most of the time it will be just fine.
I currently use a 1/3 mix of canola oil and Dexron III ATF for a range lube, and it works fine. Straight canola oil works pretty good too, and it is cheap. The mixture does seem to resist gumming better than just the canola oil by itself.
For serious use, I keep a bottle of Breakfree handy.
Heavy Metal
10-18-10, 19:49
I would be weary of the pour rate of Canola oil when temps get low.
I have seen special mix lubes that turn to mollasses even above freezing.
grendelbane
10-18-10, 20:17
That is some thing to be considered, but its not a problem for me. I just popped a half a bottle in the freezer to test it, but I don't use this lube for serious purposes.
And believe me, if I am out in freezing temperatures, I am going to be very serious!
I mainly do it just to show people that guns need lube, not expensive lube. People just don't seem to realize that for centuries, firearms were cleaned with water, and lubed with either animal or vegetable based lubricants. Mineral based lubricants did not become popular until well into the 20th century.
RogerinTPA
10-18-10, 20:19
I've been mixing militec-1 with royal purple and breakfree with no issues.
If I were worried about shooting in freezing temps here in Minnesota, I'd use a multi viscosity motor oil in my gun for the same reason I use it in my car.
I believe that is from the ops man stating not to mix CLP and LAW...of course I could be wrong.
Any combination of oil-based lubes should be fine. I currently use a mix of 1 qt 15w-50 full synthetic to 2 oz 3in1. If you're not sure, just mix up a test batch and let it sit for a day or so. So long as the ingredients don't separate or form some kind of thick gum or solid you're fine.
.
I see why a few days ago, one of the Senior Members stated in yet another "lube" thread that, at times, this Forum's name should be "M4CarbineLube". It seems there has been a rash of "lube anality" expressed the past week or two.
Here is what I've realized. Everyone in the "know" seems to agree - run your AR wet. If Pat Rogers can get a poorly lubed and failing AR running again with Vagisil, is the type, weight, brand, viscosity, mixture, etc. of your oil really that big a deal as long as your AR is kept wet with something slippery?
Just think about some of the different gun oils available: BF CLP, M-Pro, Hoppe's Elite, KG-4, EEzox, MC2500, Clenzoil, Iosso, Machine Gunner's Lube, Kroil, MC3000, RemOil, Slip 2000, Tetra, Weapon Shield, MC2500, Ultima-Lube, Gun Butter, TW25B, Mobil-1, ATF, ... Then there is synthetic, petroleum-based, water-based, aerosol, ...Are we suckers or what?? Heck, I'm guilty as anyone, bet I have 10+ different gun lubes in my shop.
I mean we have our "favorite" lube. But how could anyone really prove you wrong. Who has actually run a side-by-side comparison of lubes on multiple guns with same fire rate?
If Pat Rogers gets 31K with one gun with one lube...OK...great... but that isn't really conclusive. I think Pat's test is more of a statement for "running wet" than a statement for a particular lube. Sure some lubes might ease cleaning a bit but are they lubing better than they are cleaning?? Isn't lubrication the real issue?
2 questions:
#1 - If you keep your AR "wet", do you think there is really and truly that much of a difference between lubes?
#2 - If all you could get was "3-in-One" oil for your AR, what would you do different?
.
We really don't need another lube thread. I'll merge it into the other.
.
If Pat Rogers gets 31K with one gun with one lube....
It's up to 39K+ now.... I'm just sayin...
I bought a bcm 16" midy last year
cleaned it once when it was new
1200 rds down it no lube/cleaning
I clean and lube my guns every 1.5K with slip 2000
Works for me.
i currently use lucas red "n" tacky #2 and have for years. It has a 540deg drop point and always stays where i put it. I have let the rifle go for about 400rds before i cleaned it and it was still holding up well. I think it is sythetic too.
Like I said earlier Mpro7 is good stuff. That said this thread has inspired me to buy Weapon Shield and will most likely end up buying slip 2k as well. I also took a look at the Larue clp I want to try that too. FYI it is not a Larue product it is made by Sprinco. Larue just sells it.
http://www.sprinco.com/tactical.html
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