View Full Version : Instal help on Battle Comp 1.0
Grant sent me my BC 1.0 and I had my smith put it on. Without washer it went on, but not tight (enough). With crush washer, it hit the 3' position. So, i just tried without washer. It did loosen up. If its tight at 3, can you force it to 6, crush 3 clock hours. How many clock hrs can you crunch the washer?
Shooting impressions. My RDS was battery dead, so I shot it with BUIS cowitness. It was very easy to keep on target even using the irons. Shoulder thump felt the same, but the muzzle stayed down.
I am happy with it. Only shoot about 50 rounds. But it stayed down and on target!:D
pb
Belmont31R
09-09-10, 18:51
Assuming the top is 12 and the bottom with the logo is 6 on the actual unit.
Looking down the rifle to the buttstock from the muzzle end if its at 3 Id reccomend going 1/4 turns until about 9, and then torque the rest of the way to 12.
You definately want to use either a crush washer, peel washer, or shims. It should come with a crush washer, and its fine to use that. They can be difficult to turn unless you torque, loosen, and then torque again...hence the 1/4 turns until you get to 9. Then go from 9 to 12.
You don't want to not use some sort of washer or shims. That is a definite no go.
i stuck a peel washer behind mine, to get the crush washer to within quarter turn, then turned to 12. literally millions of A2s have been installed with nothing other than crush washers, torqued from wherever to 12- so even my extra effort was probably unnecessary.. but these days everyone's got anxiety about stressing their theads.
I crushed the washer when installing my brake about 9 clock hours. Now I wish I had just waited for the battlecomp...
The crush washer will allow at least 320 degrees of rotation after contact, maybe more. I routinely have BattleComps hand tighten with the solid section at just past the 6 o'clock position and using the above mentioned 1/4 turn technique have been able to properly clock the device with the solid section at 6 o'clock. You can also use shim or peel washers for mounting. Contact us if you have any problems and we'll be happy to help you out.
Cheers,
Marty
The crush washer will allow at least 320 degrees of rotation after contact, maybe more. I routinely have BattleComps hand tighten with the solid section at just past the 6 o'clock position and using the above mentioned 1/4 turn technique have been able to properly clock the device with the solid section at 6 o'clock. You can also use shim or peel washers for mounting. Contact us if you have any problems and we'll be happy to help you out.
Cheers,
Marty
My BC 1.0 also hand-tightened just past 6:00, and using the crush-loosen-crush-loosen method, I was able to get it back around to the proper indexing.
PRGGodfather
09-09-10, 23:42
My BC 1.0 also hand-tightened just past 6:00, and using the crush-loosen-crush-loosen method, I was able to get it back around to the proper indexing.
Good man! Of course, for the lawyers, "Professional Installation Recommended" ;)
A little birdy said 1/4 turns and backing it off will gain about an 1/8th turn by hand every time. So, by repeating this method, you will be able to time the BattleComp properly -- without imparting excessive stress -- by trying to turn it all at once. 45 lbs. of torque (from 3 to 6 PM if looking at the comp) is adequate, and you don't really want to induce more than that.
Simply, if you are facing the comp, and you timed out with the logo at 3 PM (if facing the comp), and you have only "3 hours" to go -- that's about perfect. Wrench a 1/4 turn and stop -- being careful not to go beyond 6 PM -- as you don't want to have to back off again.
Best,
Alan
got it done, thanks. The challenge was stablizing the barrel with a 12 inch DD 12 on it. Buts its good to go now. Its a fine Comp!
Grant sent me my BC 1.0 and I had my smith put it on. Without washer it went on, but not tight (enough). With crush washer, it hit the 3' position. So, i just tried without washer. It did loosen up.
got it done, thanks. The challenge was stablizing the barrel with a 12 inch DD 12 on it. Buts its good to go now. Its a fine Comp!
From the info posted above, I would suggest finding a new "smith";)
It doesn't sound like he has the proper tools/equipment, or knowledge to work on AR's.
So I just installed my BC and just barely went past the proper index point. If you're looking at the muzzle end the the logo is at like 6:15-6:30. Unfortunately I need a new crush washer instead of just backing it off a touch right?
ETA: it hand tightened to just past 6 so I basically put a full turn on the crush washer using the 1/4 and back method.
ForTehNguyen
06-24-11, 22:22
did you use any of the shims?
From the info posted above, I would suggest finding a new "smith";)
It doesn't sound like he has the proper tools/equipment, or knowledge to work on AR's.
I'd have to agree.
For timed muzzle devices, I've come to prefer shims or peel washers. If you can get your hands on the Surefire timing wheel, it takes all of the trial and error out of it.
did you use any of the shims?
No shims, just the crush washer it came with. I just went a touch to far and wondering how bad I screwed myself. I don't have another crush washer on hand and was wondering how bad it would be to back it off a some or if I must get a new washer?
If you've gone past the 6 o'clock position you should not back it off. This may allow the device to loosen up during use. You should replace the crush washer and retorque or in a pinch you can add a shim washer or two and reuse your original crush washer.
ForTehNguyen
06-26-11, 09:18
my 2.0s came with shims so I used the shims to get it to be hand tight about a 1/4 turn before the logo is at 6 oclock
EzGoingKev
06-26-11, 10:34
Key thing - righty tighty, lefty loosey.
I had a smith put my Battlecomp on and when he handed the upper back to me the logo was facing the 12 o'clock position... I politely let him know that the logo should be on the bottom. Its still not completely timed right but I decided that I either needed to do it myself or find another smith. Its VERY tight and it seems to shoot just fine, so I'll probably just leave it alone for now. (Its only off by a few millimeters. Only noticable if you look hard.)
sinjinhawk
06-28-11, 17:58
One of the reason why I prefer to install Vortex FH is that there is no indexing or timed issue. My way of installing any FH or MB that has timed issue is to clamp upper assembly in a vise bottom up position (6'oclock on 12'oclock) position. This way Im always aware when to stop turning the FH or MB. I also use the 1/4 turn so as not to missed my mark.
Hmm. I thought that if you were using crush washer, and turned a FS/MB to hand tight, you should decide on final turning based on the amount of turning you had to do to finally index. If you had more than 90 degrees to turn to your index point, you should just turn to the index.
But, if you have less than 90 degrees (e.g., if the "top" is at 10 o'clock), then you should rotate a full turn, then index.
No?
Resurrecting an old thread...
I just installed a BC 1.0 and the flat spot/logo hand tightened to about the 3:00 position. I put a torque wrench on it and set to 20 ft. lbs. and it was at about the 5:00 position. Bumped it up to about 22-23 ft. lbs. and it was clocked perfectly at the 6:00 position. It just seemed TOO easy lol...I didn't have to pre-crush the crush washer or anything at all as MANY of Battle Comp users have stated. I didn't need to go yet a FULL 360 degrees back around did I? That just seems like too much...
chamber143
04-23-12, 17:39
Mine hand tightened to about 615 and I though dammit almost a whole turn. ( after the horror stories I heard.) but it wasn't all that hard and couldn't believe how easy it was. The key is to secure the barrel not the reciever. If you vice the barrel really well so it won't spin it's really a breeze. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. Easy peesy
PRGGodfather
04-23-12, 23:29
You should be fine! 20 lbs. Is the minimum, and 45 is the max. All good.
It just seemed TOO easy lol...I didn't have to pre-crush the crush washer or anything at all as MANY of Battle Comp users have stated.
I have to say (having learned the hard way) I think this complaint only comes up when people are using inappropriate tools for the job. With the barrel properly secured in a vise with barrel blocks, and using a USGI wrench driven by a big **** off half inch beam wrench, all crush washers crush easily and you find that the torque value is a linear 20-30ftlbs all the way round for 360 degrees or so. Not only that, using a long handled wrench gives you that much more leverage and its easy to make fine adjustments to clock your device perfectly.
If you half ass the barrel securing method, or you use short handled wrenches etc, it can sometimes seem like the job from hell.
I have to say (having learned the hard way) I think this complaint only comes up when people are using inappropriate tools for the job....
If you half ass the barrel securing method, or you use short handled wrenches etc, it can sometimes seem like the job from hell.
Having the right tools for any job is definitely important. For me the most important tool was a thin 3/4" tappet wrench so that wrench doesn't come in contact with the crush washer and get hung up when it crushes out past the diameter of the fh/comp. As for securing the barrel I simply used two pieces of soft wood as padding in the vice and clamped on to the pinned fsb.
Yeah it definitely helped to have the barrel vise jaws. I padded them with some leather. Then I used a long 1/2 inch torque wrench with an AR15 multi wrench on the end. Went super smooth. Total time maybe 5 minutes??
This thread will be a big help to me! I think I may have met one of you BC guys in Buck's class :) http://twolftfeet.com/me/carbine_low_light_group_40percent.jpg
I'm on the right side :)
before - just opened the mail:
http://twolftfeet.com/JPEG/bc1.0_before.jpg
a little later:
http://twolftfeet.com/JPEG/bc1.0_after.jpg
Many thanks for this thread. BC rocks!
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