View Full Version : The Car Detailing Thread
Most "gun guys" are also "car guys." I have always enjoyed taking car of my cars, but with working two jobs, training, family, etc, I had to let this go. Recently, I have decided to get back into it and have been buying a lot of the car detailing products on the market to see if they work as advertised.
I have also been reading a lot of "professional" detailing forums. Lot's of good info out there, but just like gun forums, you have to figure out who the professionals are (people that actually do the work for a living) and the ones that are not.
This thread is meant for folks to share info about products that worked, products that didn't, tips and tricks and any other valuable info.
So for starters, here is some info on Headlight restoration.
I have a 2002 Lexus that has a lot of rock chips in the headlight lenses (fog lights as well). They vary in depth, but are everywhere. So much so that they are reducing the capability of the lights.
Here is what I did to correct the problem:
1. Wash the headlights.
2. Use 600 grit wet sandpaper (let it soak in warm water for 15 minutes) on the lens. Keep the lens wet and move in the same direction. Wipe clean and hit the deeper rock chips as needed.
3. Use 1000 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
4. Use 1500 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
5. Use 3000 grit wet sandpaper (same steps as above).
6. Clean and tape around the lens (using painters tape).
7. Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound applied generously to the lens.
8. Using an orange cutting pad on my Porter Cable 7424XP (setting 5), I buffed the lens.
9. Cleaned the lens and do steps 7 and 8 again.
10. Clean and examine for scratches.
11. Sprayed the lens with Plexus.
12. Using a soft buffing pad on my PC7424XP, polish the lens.
13. Clean and examine.
All in all, it took about 30 minutes per lens. The results are simply fantastic!
Before pic of the lens
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_HD_Lens_Before.jpg
Lens after 600gr Wet Sanding
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_HL_Lens_600.jpg
Lens after 3000gr Wet Sanding
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_HL_Lens_3000.jpg
Megs UC applied
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Megs_UC.jpg
Orange cutting pad on my PC
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/PC_OrangePad.jpg
Plexus (used to polish the lens)
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Plexus.jpg
Buffing pad on my PC
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/PC_GreyPad.jpg
Finished result
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_HL_Lens_After.jpg
Very nice work friend. I am interested in keeping an eye on this thread. I too love cars, although I prefer European engineering to American or Japanese.
Very nice work friend. I am interested in keeping an eye on this thread. I too love cars, although I prefer European engineering to American or Japanese.
Thanks. As a long time Japanese car fan, I recently bought a BMW Convertible. I must say that I am warming up to the way German's do things. ;)
C4
That is cool Grant. I will admit that that sort of work on my cars is the last thing on my mind. I appreciate it but have so many other things to do that I don't even thing about it.
My problem now is how to refinish two places on my truck where I brushed up against things on turns in tight places and have some dents that have hard creases (versus soft dents) and the paint has cracked off along the crease... I just want to protect against rust. Don't care to get rid of the dents.
That is cool Grant. I will admit that that sort of work on my cars is the last thing on my mind. I appreciate it but have so many other things to do that I don't even thing about it.
I was the same way. Then it came to my attention that if I don't take care of what I own, why would I ever be given something nicer?
My problem now is how to refinish two places on my truck where I brushed up against things on turns in tight places and have some dents that have hard creases (versus soft dents) and the paint has cracked off along the crease... I just want to protect against rust. Don't care to get rid of the dents.
If they are through the clear coat and paint, then you will have some rust issues. Get some 3000gr wet sandpaper and clean out the area. Get a touch up primer pen and then the matching body paint (I like paint pens as they are cheap and easy to use).
Here is where I buy mine: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
C4
John_Wayne777
09-22-10, 13:15
I'm a bit of a detailing nut myself.
Tools:
- Auto-Geek "Foam-Master" foam gun (http://www.autogeek.net/auqufofogun.html): an exceptionally useful tool for washing the car without swirling the bejeezus out of it.
- Brass quick-connects for the hose (http://www.autogeek.net/brqucoset.html): You'll thank me for these. Really.
- Brass shut-off valve (http://www.autogeek.net/sibrco.html): You'll thank me for this too.
- http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html: I actually have the "Meguiar's G100-A" polisher, which is simply a rebadged version of the older Porter Cable 7424. Great for finish correction without the possibility of damaging your clearcoat.
- 5 gallon bucket w/ grit guard (http://www.autogeek.net/5gagrguwabu.html): Invaluable wash tool. A clean bucket that allows you to scrub your mitt after every pass on sheet metal minimizes swirl-marks.
- Lake County 6.5" Smart Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html): By far the best pads for a DA polisher that I've ever used.
Products:
- Optimum No Rinse (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html): This stuff is fantastic. Diluted properly it works as a detailer spray, or as a clay lube. Added to your car wash mix it grabs dirt and lifts it off of your paint so it doesn't scratch the finish. Works beautifully when used in conjunction with a good soap and a foam gun.
- Meguiar's Professional medium clay (http://www.autogeek.net/megovclay.html): There's enough clay in that jar to last you for years. I bought my jar a few years ago and I just broke into the 2nd half of it, even after a bunch of uses.
- 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://www.autogeek.net/303aerprot.html): Best rubber/vinyl protectant on the market.
A couple of detail jobs I've done:
Before:
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1206.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1207.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1211.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1215.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1216.jpg
After:
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1250.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1249.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1232.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1254.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/IMGP1257.jpg
Before:
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/reardeck1.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/hoodpaint2.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/hoodpaint1.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/swirls2.jpg
After:
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/doorscratchaft.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/MSWrear4.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/superwax2.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/hazenpolish2.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/hoodsexy.jpg
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/carrya1911/MSWrear2.jpg
Good stuff JW777!
I like the grit guard bucket. I am currently just using the two bucket method of washing.
For pads, I am using the ones made by Sonus. So far so good, but hear good things about LC.
For wheels, have you tried the SONAX Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Full Effect yet? http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Products/Tyres-Rims-Rubber/(so)/1/(node)/12815/230200-SONAX-Xtreme-Wheel-cleaner-full-effect
It is awesome to say the least. It sprays on green and when it is done eating brake dust, it turns blood red (letting you know it is done working). Pretty cool stuff!
C4
I was the same way. Then it came to my attention that if I don't take care of what I own, why would I ever be given something nicer?
I don't disagree. And the "problem" is one of the reasons I am working to switch my business to SW development and development consulting (iPhone/iPad) instead of what I have been doing the last 9 years. If I can sell off my remaining inventory I will be done with the switch. Should help me alleviate some of the stresses if it works out and I can work hard so that I have more time to take care of the normal day to day as well as spend with my family.
If they are through the clear coat and paint, then you will have some rust issues. Get some 3000gr wet sandpaper and clean out the area. Get a touch up primer pen and then the matching body paint (I like paint pens as they are cheap and easy to use).
Here is where I buy mine: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
C4
Cool, thanks. This is one thing I need to address before winter as yes, the clear coat and paint is through on the creases. Thanks for the pointer.
For wheels, have you tried the SONAX Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Full Effect yet? http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Products/Tyres-Rims-Rubber/(so)/1/(node)/12815/230200-SONAX-Xtreme-Wheel-cleaner-full-effect
Yet another great tip! Thanks. I have to work on my wheels as well to avoid long term damage from brake dust etc.
John_Wayne777
09-22-10, 13:41
I like the grit guard bucket. I am currently just using the two bucket method of washing.
It took me a long time to embrace the foam gun, but once I tried it I thought I was an idiot for not doing it sooner. I use Meguiar's Gold Class (relatively cheap and readily available) in the reservoir along with a capfull of ONR. I spray the entire vehicle down and let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then I spray the whole thing down again and then spray down each panel as I wash with a good clean microfiber mitt. The bucket is full of clean water. The mitt gets plunged and scrubbed after every contact with sheet metal.
The foam gun essentially becomes my 2nd bucket.
For wheels, have you tried the SONAX Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Full Effect yet? http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Products/Tyres-Rims-Rubber/(so)/1/(node)/12815/230200-SONAX-Xtreme-Wheel-cleaner-full-effect
I haven't tried that stuff yet. For wheels I just spray them down with my usual car-wash mixture and go after them with a relatively soft-bristled brush. My wheels usually don't get so dirty that they require a dedicated cleaner. I'm willing to give it a shot, though...especially for when I pull the wheels to clean the insides of them.
I absolutely HATE car washing. Some of you guys look good enough to hire!:D
Ahh... detailing, one of the things that I dont have time for.
If you name it, I have it...
Any of you guys use Wolfgang Fuzion yet? Not the best pic, but you can see the weather was limiting.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3032/3248211457_5fbe2dcc63_z.jpg
Absolutely love it, unfortunately I haven't done more than wash my cars this past year. I used to do some detailing for cash and to buy product but those days are gone.
Foam gun:
I love it, but it almost becomes a PITA. I generally mix up a gallon of whatever soap I wanna use and store it to make things easier, but there always seems to be a mess. I have been using the ONR and Lake Country sponge more than anything.
Pads:
Lake Country 5.5" and 4". I use the 4" with the hand thing as well so I can machine apply wax/sealant with the red pad and use it by hand as to not lose product priming the pads.
Wheel cleaner:
P21S Concentrated gel.
Headlights:
Wetsand only. I have used Plast-X as a final before but the right paper has done just fine.
Correction:
Menzerna (solves tough German paint), but I need to try 105/205, I hear great things about it, just havent used it. I also have #80/#83, and the Pinnacle XMT series.
LSP:
Wolfgang Fuzion, Liquid Souveran, Poorboys Nattys R/W/B (blue is the best by far), Collinite Insulators wax, Megs NXT 2.0 (for family cars), and a few others
Sealants:
Wolfgang, Optimum Opti-seal, and a few others I cant remember right now.
Here is one of the last cars I did:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3265/2854134076_5afa180899_z.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3283/2853297053_3f13cfb7bb_z.jpg
Ahh... detailing, one of the things that I dont have time for.
If you name it, I have it...
Any of you guys use Wolfgang Fuzion yet? Not the best pic, but you can see the weather was limiting.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3032/3248211457_5fbe2dcc63_z.jpg
Absolutely love it, unfortunately I haven't done more than wash my cars this past year. I used to do some detailing for cash and to buy product but those days are gone.
Foam gun:
I love it, but it almost becomes a PITA. I generally mix up a gallon of whatever soap I wanna use and store it to make things easier, but there always seems to be a mess. I have been using the ONR and Lake Country sponge more than anything.
Pads:
Lake Country 5.5" and 4". I use the 4" with the hand thing as well so I can machine apply wax/sealant with the red pad and use it by hand as to not lose product priming the pads.
Wheel cleaner:
P21S Concentrated gel.
Headlights:
Wetsand only. I have used Plast-X as a final before but the right paper has done just fine.
Correction:
Menzerna (solves tough German paint), but I need to try 105/205, I hear great things about it, just havent used it. I also have #80/#83, and the Pinnacle XMT series.
LSP:
Wolfgang Fuzion, Liquid Souveran, Poorboys Nattys R/W/B (blue is the best by far), Collinite Insulators wax, Megs NXT 2.0 (for family cars), and a few others
Sealants:
Wolfgang, Optimum Opti-seal, and a few others I cant remember right now.
All your lists look like stuff I have recently bought or am about to buy.
I have some of the Megs 105/205 and will post how it works out.
I am currently using the Megs NXT wash and NXT wax. Will do another write up on the results.
C4
The NXT wash is nice, but their detailer series Hyperwash (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+D11001)is just as good from my experiences. I got the pump and it truly is 3 pumps per gallon of water. I add an oz or two of Optimum No-Rinse for good measure. I think if you have more than one vehicle the Hyperwash will be a better route. Of course half the fun is accumulating stuff.
For winter (http://autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html), as you will see the same garbage we do.
Careful with the orbital buffers, gents......you can easily burn paint if you don't know what you're doing.
Stippling a $500 Glock is more forgiving than polishing a $10k+ car.
Careful with the orbital buffers, gents......you can easily burn paint if you don't know what you're doing.
Stippling a $500 Glock is more forgiving than polishing a $10k+ car.
They are dual action, not orbital, so there is little worry about the paint.
They are dual action, not orbital, so there is little worry about the paint.
Right. This is one of the things that concerned me and why I got the PCXP.
C4
Plexus works wonders on clear bras. I am lucky enough to have a few friends in the area who own their own detailing companies and they offer me a good price. I try to take good care of my BMW. One thing I think every car person should invest their money in is a California dusters. Works wonders at keeping a clean car clean. Hopefully I can share some tips from the detailers and I will throw a pick of the car up later for the car buffs.
Thomas M-4
09-22-10, 16:42
I found these guys about 15 years ago its all I use and all of my car buddy use there products to. And every car detailing shop around here uses them to. Very good products.
http://www.snproducts.net/index.cfm
ForTehNguyen
09-22-10, 17:21
clay bar does freaking wonders for a cars paintjob. So much crap that a car wash cant get off gets removed with a clay bar
clay bar does freaking wonders for a cars paintjob. So much crap that a car wash cant get off gets removed with a clay bar
Agree. It is amazing how much pollutants the bars pick up.
C4
Thomas M-4
09-22-10, 20:33
Dont forget to repaint the wheel wells. Seeing fresh coat of black in the wheel wells always look good.
John_Wayne777
09-22-10, 20:41
I just scrub the wheel wells and then apply 303 protectant...which makes them look good as new.
Grant those lens came out super :)
I have a lot of detail stuff :)
I left my nice cars on Maui though :( BMW and Porsche
had a MB S class here but got rid of it now my FJ I dont detail ?
all my nice cars were perfection to the point of not one craze line or anything ! I grew up in a car family ? like drove my uncles Ferrari Dino crazy car family :) my dad having cars like MB gullwing 55 speedster etc.. he now just has a bunch of MB ? he got out of all his killer cars and Porsches once he got about 75 he said to hard to climb in and out of :(
but
I love sonus stuff and Klasse for products along with a few others ?
my PC 7424 with a ton of pads of various types microfibers for windows dif style for paint and for removing water etc..
when you get into it certain products work better with German paints ? I never owned American cars ? and only Imports were SUV or trucks so depending in your car ? certain products will work better
used to get some stuff from here
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/
and
http://www.properautocare.com
they also have some good tutorials :)
as mentioned CLAY is your friend and remember its cheap dont reuse it throw it do the divide it up for panels do a panel chuck it
use spritz or good lube
then step up the finish :) and keep it up :)
I keep thinking of getting a nice car again ? to me detailing was a way to just relax and enjoy
Moose-Knuckle
09-22-10, 21:20
When I first got a car as a teenager I pain stakingly detailed it inside and out. Now that I work 50hrs a week plus I let Mother Nature wash my truck and take in about once a year for a full detail wash, cleaning, interior shampoo etc.
Thomas M-4
09-22-10, 21:37
I just scrub the wheel wells and then apply 303 protectant...which makes them look good as new.
Yea I have done the same I do prefer the spray paint I cut a piece of cardboard to use as a overspray shield you can retouch up the control arms and linkages if that what floats your boat.
Me and buddy would pull the motor,trans,most of the interior except the dash unless we had to power wash and repaint everything replace what ever would be wore out . It would make a old car look almost factory new. Last car was 87 Olds cutlass We puled the 305ci and trans out. Put the car on blocks rented a industrial power steam cleaner and was completely amazed at how well the high pressure steam cleaner did to the 20 year old under carriage. If you ever seen 80's GM under carriage you know. It practically took it down to bare metal We had to respray the entire under carriage the next day.
But man did it look good afterward. Used s&n micro polished to buff the headlights and taillights. It had the factory black paint job. You know how bad black can look when its oxidized bad [spider webs ]
s&n has a polish that works wonders with oxidized paint. The original plan was to respray the entire car but after many hours of buffing the factory black looked so good afterward we said to hell with it.
To bad it got stolen shortly after we finished working on it :angry:
Dont forget to repaint the wheel wells. Seeing fresh coat of black in the wheel wells always look good.
make sure the car is low enough that you cant see in the wheel wells :D
For rims and tires, I like Simple Green. My biggest headache is keeping the Jeep's soft top looking good. It does, but it takes some elbow grease and time.
I bought a 1982 Toyota 4x4 last year. I've sanded primed and painted what small rust it had, but the engine bay and undercarriage are a bit of a mess with grease, oil, etc. Anyone have a good recommendation for a cleaner to get all of that shit off without worry of destroying gaskets or hoses? I really just want to be able to notice leaks or potential problems. Elbow grease is not a problem.
P.S. Bravo on keeping those nice vehicles clean and in shape. It's amazing what a few years of neglect will result in, compared to 20 or so years of good care.
Thomas M-4
09-22-10, 22:59
I bought a 1982 Toyota 4x4 last year. I've sanded primed and painted what small rust it had, but the engine bay and undercarriage are a bit of a mess with grease, oil, etc. Anyone have a good recommendation for a cleaner to get all of that shit off without worry of destroying gaskets or hoses? I really just want to be able to notice leaks or potential problems. Elbow grease is not a problem.
P.S. Bravo on keeping those nice vehicles clean and in shape. It's amazing what a few years of neglect will result in, compared to 20 or so years of good care.
Having access to a good pressure washer and couple of cans of engine degrease-er should go a good ways.
Preferred User
09-22-10, 23:03
Dunderway - handy video HERE (http://detailersdomain.wordpress.com/2010/07/28/engine-detailing-made-easy-adams-in-and-out-is-back-for-a-limited-time/) on engine detailing. I have some others bookmarked at home, but I am TDY right now and just went to the site where I get a lot of my detailing stuff. Phil always has coupon codes so don't buy anything without a discount.
Preferred User
09-22-10, 23:04
Having access to a good pressure washer and couple of cans of engine degrease-er should go a good ways.
Be VERY careful with a pressure washer in the engine bay.
Thanks for the tips. Before I saw this thread I was going to wash / detail today anyways. So I ran out to wally-world and picked up a few extra things. Hopefully I'll post before and after pics.
ForTehNguyen
09-24-10, 15:42
Costly Car Detailing *Crazy*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkmZveqyU5E
exotic car detailing. here is the guys channel, his name is Paul Dalton:
http://www.youtube.com/user/MiracleDetail
A friend of mine has some Swissvax... Cost more than my first 3 cars (combined).
I'm a bit of a detailing nut myself...
Well it appears that you sure are.
And if I recall you aren't more than a couple hrs from me (good old TOS days :secret:), so if I pay for gas and tolls...
Edit: Now that I re-read this, I might clarify for any drawing dopey inferences that years ago we didn't get along sometimes. And my 4 year old vehicle does have numerous scratches that I don't have either the expertise or equipment to remove.
Carry on...
I got the exterior washed and used the Turtle Wax clay bar system and holy frijoles does that pain look and feel clean to the touch. I had to call it quits as I was running out of day light.
Apparently at the same time the local flock of herons was returning from doing what ever herons do and heading for their nesting grounds on the island in the lake. Wouldn't ya know it, one of the sonsabitches decided to do a bombing run on my pristine clean truck on the way there.
ForTehNguyen
09-24-10, 21:13
yea clay bars amazing, gets that gritty feeling off the paint (contaminants). You only do it every few years.
I must admit I'm not a car guy. I don't particularly care WTF my vehicle looks like so long as it gets me from point A to point B in a safe manner.
That said, my father hits up many a car shows with his 1950/1960-something Jeep Willies (that's how much I care, I mean to say that I don't). He's out about every other weekend with that thing and I'll be sure to pass along some of the knowledge spit out in this thread to him. Hell, at the very least it'll give him some new ideas (and keep him out of my mother's hair).
I guess I mean to say I cannot appreciate this thread like many of ya'll but still find it useful. Nothing makes that man happier than going out to the garage and polishing or tinkering with something on his Jeep so much of this stuff should keep him occupied for a good bit.
I must admit I'm not a car guy. I don't particularly care WTF my vehicle looks like so long as it gets me from point A to point B in a safe manner.
That said, my father hits up many a car shows with his 1950/1960-something Jeep Willies (that's how much I care, I mean to say that I don't). He's out about every other weekend with that thing and I'll be sure to pass along some of the knowledge spit out in this thread to him. Hell, at the very least it'll give him some new ideas (and keep him out of my mother's hair).
I guess I mean to say I cannot appreciate this thread like many of ya'll but still find it useful. Nothing makes that man happier than going out to the garage and polishing or tinkering with something on his Jeep so much of this stuff should keep him occupied for a good bit.
I didn't really care about car detailing too much either (no time). I am re-organizing though so that I do have some free time.
Like others have said, it is VERY rewarding/relaxing cleaning your car (properly).
C4
Like others have said, it is VERY rewarding/relaxing cleaning your car (properly).
Properly is the operative word here, the other huge aspect that is overlooked is the products you are using. Having been down the Turtlewax and Mothers routes, I can say that you are better served to get stuff online or at a local place that carries nice products. For the same prices as Turtle Wax, Poorboys has great stuff, and the number of brands out there with worthy products is growing. If your time is limited, why spend it with an inferior product, especially when a good product is not any more expensive?
NinjaMedic
09-30-10, 10:45
Any advice on how to keep wax off all of the little plastic trim pieces like letters, badges, decals, etc and windshield washer fluid nozzles?
Any advice on how to keep wax off all of the little plastic trim pieces like letters, badges, decals, etc and windshield washer fluid nozzles?
There are several products that will remove the wax.
http://autogeek.net/black-wow-trim-restorer.html
http://autogeek.net/blackagain1.html
http://autogeek.net/duragloss-wax-eraser.html
My suggestion is to use painters tape on the trim when doing any work with wax or any polish-abrasive product. I have also found wax selection will dictate how much residue you get. Wolfgang Fuzion does not leave a residue and looks amazing, I believe Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax will not leave a residue either.
John_Wayne777
09-30-10, 14:32
Painters tape would be my suggestion as well. It takes more time to set up, but it's a lot easier than trying to remove the wax residue with a toothbrush later.
another vote for painters tape ? and try to be careful :)
Cascades236
09-30-10, 15:45
Dont forget to repaint the wheel wells. Seeing fresh coat of black in the wheel wells always look good.
Detailing guy here too, tho these days I'm carrying less and less about trying to keep my daily driver perfect.
Anyhow, instead of repainting wheel wells, give them a good clean and try Chemical Guys Bare Bones.
Oh and I love Optimum No Rinse as well, been using it for about 4 years with zero problems. Even used under car port when snow was on the ground, lol.
Any advice on how to keep wax off all of the little plastic trim pieces like letters, badges, decals, etc and windshield washer fluid nozzles?
Have you looked into sealants at all?
I forgot to mention this past week I found a nasty scuff on one of my taillights. I found a 4" white Lake Country CCS pad, a small amount of Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and some light pressure polished the scuff right out. I am gonna say this will probably change my headlight methods soon, just need a set of foggy headlights to try it on.
woodandsteel
10-01-10, 10:13
clay bar does freaking wonders for a cars paintjob. So much crap that a car wash cant get off gets removed with a clay bar
My wife uses a wet Bounce dryer sheet to rub bugs and other grime off of our vehicles. It does an amazing job. Almost as good as a clay bar. It's a good trick for when you don't want to clay bar your car.
The inspiration for this thread was because I decided to sell my 2002 Lexus. In order to get top dollar for it, I knew that I had to clean her up. This of course lead to me doing truckloads of research.
Well, I finally finished the project and thought I would do a run down of what was done and products used to do it.
First, the car had not been waxed in well over a year. The leather hadn't been cleaned in a long time either. So these were the two important areas that needed attention. Lot's of minor rock chips in the paint (some to the bare metal).
Step one: Wash the car and remove tar/bugs
Did this using Megs NXT. Pretty good car wash for the money I think. Will be trying some others though so I can have a reference point.
For tar, used Tarminator (actually eats tar right in front of your eyes).
Rims cleaned with Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner.
Step two: Clay the car.
Used the Megs Clar Bar. Worked well and removed tons of pollution. Good stuff for sure and is an important step that many pass on.
Step three: Remove any existing wax and degrease the car.
Used Hi-Temps wax/degreaser. Strong stuff that removed any kind of residue from the car.
Step four: Remove any swirl marks in the paint.
Used the Porter Cable 7424XP, Megs Ultimate Compound. Did a good job as long as the scratches weren't too deep.
Step Five: Remove deep scratches in the clear coat.
Used Megs 105 followed up with 205 with the PC to remove these. Worked VERY WELL.
Step Six: Washed car again and then taped all parts that I didn't want waxed.
Step Seven: Wax car
Used my PC and Megs NXT 2.0 wax. For pads, used LC. Wax went on light and was easy to work with. Had a nice odor to it as well (if that matters).
Buffed the car with my PC and micro fiber pad.
Step Eight: Cleaned interior.
All clear plastic's were cleaned with Plexus. All Vinyl and rubber was cleaned with Lexol Vinylex. Leather was cleaned and conditioned with Lexol.
Windows were cleaned with Detailer's Pride Glass Cleaner.
All done and now onto the pics!
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Hood.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Rear.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Right_Side.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Back_Seat.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Front_seat.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Driver_Side.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Instruments.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Pedals.jpg
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/Radio.jpg
Not too bad for a 2002 with over 100,000 miles!
So what did I replace the Lexus with? :D
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Grants_Pics/Lexus_IS300/BMW.jpg
C4
I love to clean cars and guns.....its truly relaxing and therapeutic like others have mentioned.
Grant, wonderful decision in your new car choice as BMW's are amazing performers in every single respect. I am partial to m3s and the new ones are 911 and F355 asskickers for sure:cool: I personally will drive a M3 for the rest of my life and the two Ive owned to date have enriched my life exponentially. You should have received a really nice Maguire's care detailer's kit with your new BMW.....its a solid selection of products.
eta...Do not google DINAN.....nothing to see there at all;)
http://i52.tinypic.com/2yov6yo.jpg
Step one: Wash the car and remove tar/bugs
Did this using Megs NXT. Pretty good car wash for the money I think. Will be trying some others though so I can have a reference point.
Rims cleaned with Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner.
Step three: Remove any existing wax and degrease the car.
Used Hi-Temps wax/degreaser. Strong stuff that removed any kind of residue from the car.
Step four: Remove any swirl marks in the paint.
Used the Porter Cable 7424XP, Megs Ultimate Compound. Did a good job as long as the scratches weren't too deep.
Step Five: Remove deep scratches in the clear coat.
Used Megs 102 followed up with 202 with the PC to remove these. Worked VERY WELL.
Step Six: Washed car again and then taped all parts that I didn't want waxed.
Step Seven: Wax car
Used my PC and Megs NXT 2.0 wax. For pads, used LC. Wax went on light and was easy to work with. Had a nice odor to it as well (if that matters).
Buffed the car with my PC and micro fiber pad.
Windows were cleaned with Detailer's Pride Glass Cleaner.
All done and now onto the pics!
I would suggest a concentrated car wash/shampoo with a capful of Optimum No-Rinse added. I think it is much more cost effective. I will say that finding a wash/shampoo you like is a good endeavor though, I found mine, yours may be different, especially based on the water you use. (run a filter set up)
How was the Sonax? My brakes are the devil. I hope the next set of pads I get are actually low dust as advertised, the current set are not.
On the wax removal, the clay bar will do this already. I would skip the degreaser and add another quick rinse before any compounding.
Why did ya use ultimate compound then 105-205? I suspect 105-205 is more than enough, plus IIRC, the ultimate compound is not any more abrasive. I think you would be able to save a step and limit the product needed this way.
Glass: I have been using isopropyl alcohol only for some time now. Cheap and easy.
How was the 105-205? I have Menzerna now, but am interested in the 105-205 for the VW paint. Taking care of more than one VW is tough when you need to remove swirls on 2+ cars...
I love to clean cars and guns.....its truly relaxing and therapeutic like others have mentioned.
Grant, wonderful decision in your new car choice as BMW's are amazing performers in every single respect. I am partial to m3s and the new ones are 911 and F355 asskickers for sure:cool: I personally will drive a M3 for the rest of my life and the two Ive owned to date have enriched my life exponentially. You should have received a really nice Maguire's care detailer's kit with your new BMW.....its a solid selection of products.
eta...Do not google DINAN.....nothing to see there at all;)
As a long time Japanese Car driver (Honda/Toyota), this is my first German car. So far so good.
I have already looked DINAN so too late. ;)
C4
I would suggest a concentrated car wash/shampoo with a capful of Optimum No-Rinse added. I think it is much more cost effective. I will say that finding a wash/shampoo you like is a good endeavor though, I found mine, yours may be different, especially based on the water you use. (run a filter set up)
I am going to try some other stuff for sure (already bought a new shampoo).
How was the Sonax? My brakes are the devil. I hope the next set of pads I get are actually low dust as advertised, the current set are not.
Fantastic. It goes on green and after it has eaten the brake dust, it turns BLOOD red. So you know exactly when it is done.
On the wax removal, the clay bar will do this already. I would skip the degreaser and add another quick rinse before any compounding.
Ya, I figured it would, but there were some spots (weird corners and such) that I really couldn't get into well enough to my liking. The degreaser also removed some dirt that I had missed during the wash process.
Why did ya use ultimate compound then 105-205? I suspect 105-205 is more than enough, plus IIRC, the ultimate compound is not any more abrasive. I think you would be able to save a step and limit the product needed this way.
The ultimate compound is not strong enough to remove deep scratches. The 105 is. The paint wasn't bad enough to do it all with the 105/205 though. Make sense? Had some light swirling all over the car with about 5 deep scratches in the clear coat.
How was the 105-205? I have Menzerna now, but am interested in the 105-205 for the VW paint. Taking care of more than one VW is tough when you need to remove swirls on 2+ cars...
Great. Removed just about every scratch. When it didn't I went with the 3000gr wet sand paper and then hit it with the 105/205.
What is great about silver Metallic paint is that there were very few swirls in the car. Because of this, most every car I will buy from now on will have a Metallic paint (in silver).
C4
Fantastic. It goes on green and after it has eaten the brake dust, it turns BLOOD red. So you know exactly when it is done.
Will have to try it
The ultimate compound is not strong enough to remove deep scratches. The 105 is. The paint wasn't bad enough to do it all with the 105/205 though. Make sense? Had some light swirling all over the car with about 5 deep scratches in the clear coat.
That is what I would have done. I thought you went over it with all the products, not just selectively.
yall got more energy than i do, i get my pickup washed at the carwash approx. every 6 months, whether it needs it or not. [ but, i can remember when i did all that stuff ] the lexus dealer will wash wife's RX350, when they service it.
Kentucky Cop
10-12-10, 16:58
My cruiser is around 4 years old and has been thru hell and back....., really. Small tornado 2 years ago, ice storms galore, and all kinds of highway salt etc.
How do I get my light bar to look clear again when it was new. The backside of the bar is in good shape but the front is faded and has a fog look to it? Is plexis my answer? Thoughts....?
KC
This is the one I have.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.avtechelectronics.com/images/sx8_000.png&imgrefurl=http://www.avtechelectronics.com/LIGHTBARS.htm&h=264&w=576&sz=168&tbnid=uu71pCI-ekgWPM:&tbnh=61&tbnw=134&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwhelen%2Bled%2Blightbar&zoom=1&q=whelen+led+lightbar&usg=__cM4A-YaQbGHJIvpaZQvoB_n_jl4=&sa=X&ei=SMW0TLiPKIKC8gbNxZ2ICg&ved=0CEQQ9QEwBg
My cruiser is around 4 years old and has been thru hell and back....., really. Small tornado 2 years ago, ice storms galore, and all kinds of highway salt etc.
How do I get my light bar to look clear again when it was new. The backside of the bar is in good shape but the front is faded and has a fog look to it? Is plexis my answer? Thoughts....?
KC
This is the one I have.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.avtechelectronics.com/images/sx8_000.png&imgrefurl=http://www.avtechelectronics.com/LIGHTBARS.htm&h=264&w=576&sz=168&tbnid=uu71pCI-ekgWPM:&tbnh=61&tbnw=134&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwhelen%2Bled%2Blightbar&zoom=1&q=whelen+led+lightbar&usg=__cM4A-YaQbGHJIvpaZQvoB_n_jl4=&sa=X&ei=SMW0TLiPKIKC8gbNxZ2ICg&ved=0CEQQ9QEwBg
What do you have? You will likely have to polish it, plexus just cleans. I tried a new method recently on some lights and it worked out great, when I know what you have I will go from there.
Kentucky Cop
10-12-10, 20:28
I dont have anything. I just overhear coworkers stating that Plexus from a local Harley dealership clears up the light bar fairly well.
KC
I dont have anything. I just overhear coworkers stating that Plexus from a local Harley dealership clears up the light bar fairly well.
KC
I have not seen Plexus polish, only clean. You will most likely need an abrasive to handle what you have.
I have used the following components of these kits, but not the exact kits. I think any one of them will suit you just fine.
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-plastic-headlight-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/mothers-powerball-4-headlights.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-headlight-kit.html
My preference is with the 3M kit, although most recently I have used a Lake Country white 4" pad with Menzerna Super Intensive Polish at max speed with a good bit of force on the pad to clean up some taillights in about a minute a piece.
I used to have some nice German cars :)
my BMW was insane perfect but I worked on it a lot ;)
I love Klasse and sonus spritz as a detailer spray for the BMW the two step klasse and your PC with the correct pads on their you can get a light up against it and get a finish free of all micro scratches etc.. I used a fluorescent light and low angle to check :)
I would say check out the Klasse and also the sonus spritz
http://www.sonus-usa.com/son-200.html
spent about $500 or so trying everything I could when I got the BMW ? I ended up using the same stuff I did on my Porsche which was Klasse ;) but it was worth it to try so many things
I really prefer a acrylic spritz over wax even the expensive stuff ? it just looks wetter goes on and comes off nicer etc.. lasts better
I would do what one likes :) but might be worth checking out that combo of klasse sonus :)
forgot the steps I used on one of the used BMW cars ? 3M stuff though ? so the above is more once you have your paint in the way you want :) the first Klasse though will get out micro scratches its not for a rough finish :) but once you have it dialed in OOHHH
Kentucky Cop
10-13-10, 08:58
Sounds good. That should get me started! Thanks fellas's.
KC
Anyone still spending too much time rubbing their cars?
Just picked myself up a Flex to do some correction.
Anyone still spending too much time rubbing their cars?
Just picked myself up a Flex to do some correction.
The Flex buffer is great. Substantially faster than the PC.
I've been an adherent of the Adam's family and pretty much follow the Junkman (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/2386.htm) school of thought, although I prefer power washing along with a foam cannon attachment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uXlEMGc_60) instead of a hose-powered foam gun. That thing will make my car look like a birthday cake in about 60 seconds. Good stuff. Metro MasterBlaster for drying (does the dogs too). My Z is Black Cherry...requires a fair amount of upkeep.
http://ssequine.net/pressurewasher.jpg
http://SSEquine.net/adamdetailcart2.jpg
http://SSEquine.net/z1s.jpg
http://SSEquine.net/z7s.jpg
Collegefour
07-11-12, 02:10
Grant,
I own two E46 BMW's. Yours looks like an 04-06. Get familiar with www.e46fanatics.com . Some problem areas with our cars: cooling system is mostly plastic junk. If you get 100k or more out of it, you're doing great. Check your expansion tank (seams will split), hoses, thermostat (for leakage and/or blockage), and if you need to repair, then refresh the entire cooling system (radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, exp tank).
These cars are easy to work on (I just spent the last two days in one of mine), so don't be afraid to get in there. Other things to read up on and be aware of are: O2 sensors, Cam position sensors, DISA, ICV, Oil separator, oil filter housing gasket (this is what I just replaced), lower intake boot (rubber splits), VANOS seals, and valve cover gasket leaks.
I LOVE my cars, so I think you are going to enjoy yours!
I love to clean cars and guns.....its truly relaxing and therapeutic like others have mentioned.
Grant, wonderful decision in your new car choice as BMW's are amazing performers in every single respect. I am partial to m3s and the new ones are 911 and F355 asskickers for sure:cool: I personally will drive a M3 for the rest of my life and the two Ive owned to date have enriched my life exponentially. You should have received a really nice Maguire's care detailer's kit with your new BMW.....its a solid selection of products.
eta...Do not google DINAN.....nothing to see there at all;)
http://i52.tinypic.com/2yov6yo.jpg
I swear by the Meguiar's stuff - never fails me
As a long time Japanese Car driver (Honda/Toyota), this is my first German car. So far so good.
I have already looked DINAN so too late. ;)
C4
Crap. Well don't look at HRE, HorsePower Freaks, or the e46 forums either. Then you'll start to get ideas.....:fie:
I don't want to start a war, but I've torn a half dozen cars apart and the Germans never cease to amaze me. Hope you're liking the convertible Grant!
A couple of freshly-waxed/detailed members of VAG, it takes some serious TLC to clean them up after a weekend at the track
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/bday001.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/096.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/IMG_1339.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/35976_814766978358_6978718_n-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/38936_814588620788_689938_n-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/35970_814588141748_8088836_n.jpg
I swear by the Meguiar's stuff - never fails me
If you like Meg's I think your mind will be blown if you try some other stuff. Been using Chemical Guys V7 and it is insane. Wolfgang Fuzion is still my go to wax though. Going to try some other stuff shortly.
A couple of freshly-waxed/detailed members of VAG, it takes some serious TLC to clean them up after a weekend at the track
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/bday001.jpg
20th?
If you like Meg's I think your mind will be blown if you try some other stuff. Been using Chemical Guys V7 and it is insane. Wolfgang Fuzion is still my go to wax though. Going to try some other stuff shortly.
20th?
Yessir. Saw you're R32 on page 1, nice!
Worked my ass off for that, it was my first car and I really loved it. After adding more power, the FWD really wasn't cutting it and I didn't have the time/patience to install a limited slip diff. I got so sick of the wheel hop (even deflated with soft compound tires) I sold it.
So it was on to AWD/Audis after that...big turbo, water meth injection, and Haldex goodness to put the power down.
I have a mkVI GTI now, had to go 4 door, just much easier. Couldn't wait for the Golf R either. The R32 was a pig, couldn't keep tires from bubbling. Ran 19's on a mkIV Jetta without a bubble, the mkV R bubbled, the mkV Rabbit I have did not.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/orionz06/1708b6d8.jpg
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