View Full Version : Do I need to pin the gas block
Hi,
Sorry if this is a redundant question. New to the forum and new to building an AR. I have a BCM BFH 16 dimpled barrel, with a VLTOR Low Profile Gas Block GB-2S (steel with set screws). Do I need to have this pinned to the barrel? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
ohiorifleman
09-22-10, 20:41
For most users using just the set screws as is will be fine. For those on the forum that run their carbines very hard they tend to opt for pinning in addition to the set screws to make sure the gas block doesn't cause problems at inopportune times.
As long as your barrel is dimpled and it's goign to be covered by the rail then you dont really have to. Just put red Loctite on the set screws. If it's exposed or partially exposed, then pin it.
Personally, I'd pin it regardless. For peace of mind at the very least. Especially if you plan on training with your build.
Rainier will pin it for you for $30. I just had them pin a VLTOR on a BCM BFH for me. If you already have your FF rails, send the barrel nut along with the barrel and they'll slip it on for you before they pin the gas block.
Thanks for the feedback. I will have it pinned.
Hmac,
Thanks for the info but the guys who built my lower JD Machine can pin it for me locally.
Appreciate the quick responses!
Is there a how to thread on pinning the gas block yourself?
I'm an armorer for my department and I see quite a few guns come in (we allow Officers to purchase their own) with set screw gas blocks. I would love to be able to just drill and pin them myself but I've never done taper pins and I'm not familiar with what is needed.
ETA: Found my answer in the archives. Here is the link:
https://www.m4carbine.net/archive/index.php/t-13718.html
Here's another great resource:
http://brdengineering.com/Gas_Block_Drilling_Jig.php
His jigs are available at Bravo and Rainier.
Here's another great resource:
http://brdengineering.com/Gas_Block_Drilling_Jig.php
His jigs are available at Bravo and Rainier.
I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.
I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.
I just ordered both from Rainier. Thanks for the help.
I used the dimpling jig & the taper pin jig on my 6.8 build. Nice stuff & good instructions.
Agreed. I've used both of these for several builds. I always use the Vltor lo-pro block with the set screws, dimple the barrel and use Rocksett on the screws. Then I drill, ream and taper pin as well. Probably overkill, but bombproof.
I have a BCM barrel that is dimpled. I am using a larue gas block and red loc tighted the set screws. I have/will run the carbine hard and the barrel deff gets very very hot. Will the heat from the barrel loosen the red loct tite?
How are you guys lineing up the gas port? I installed a 2 piece gas block on my SPR build. I made up a pin that fit snug in the gas block top and tapered it to fit in the gas hole to get proper alignment before I installed a set screw. I also had to dimple the barrel. That is not possible with the Voltor gas block. I am thinking about installing a pinned gas block and did not know how this was done.
Jk
How are you guys lineing up the gas port? I installed a 2 piece gas block on my SPR build. I made up a pin that fit snug in the gas block top and tapered it to fit in the gas hole to get proper alignment before I installed a set screw. I also had to dimple the barrel. That is not possible with the Voltor gas block. I am thinking about installing a pinned gas block and did not know how this was done.
Jk
If you are doing an Vltor and using the dimpling jig it has a set screw that aligns it automatically with the gas port. That is the easy way. I have the jig on order but in the past I just marked a line on the barrel forward of the gas port and marked the front of the block in line with the gas port. I assembled the block, tightened down the set screws (not dimpled) and test fired the rifle. If it functions fine they are aligned and you can check easily by taking the block back off and looking at the top of the barrel. There will be a dark ring around the port where the port in the block was and you can see how well centered it is. The port in the block is significantly larger and there is some room for error, they don't have to be perfectly concentric.
If it fired fine and the ports were aligned by checking the carbon deposits I will turn the barrel over and dimple it where the set screws scratched the barrel, reassemble, and loc-tite the set screws. Test fire again and if all is well, drill and pin it. I would never pin the block until I knew the rifle was functioning because once the pin hole is drilled you are done adjusting.
ETA: If you are installing a railed gas block with a railed free float quad rail you can use the rail alignment tool from Brownells. I have one and love it. I use it to install the quad rail perfectly in line with the upper and then the block perfectly in line with the quad rail. I've never had the gas ports off after doing this but as mentioned before, pull it off after shooting to check the carbon circle around the gas port.
Makes perfect sense. Thank you.
Jk
Update:
I haven't done an Vltor gas block yet (or any close enough to use the dimple and drilling jig) but I have now done 3 pins in railed gas blocks (all on my rifles, so if I screw up it isn't someone elses gun). In all three cases I had to drill an angled surface first but was able to get it to work by putting the bit almost all the way into my press with just about 1/8" sticking out of the press. I'd drill down just under 1/8" then reset the bit to 1/4". Did this increasing the length of the bit until I drilled all the way through and it worked fine. The holes aren't 100% straight (slightly angled from the 90 degree ideal) I think from very minor drill bit flex but you have to measure each side of the block to tell and all three were clean and just grazed the barrel by about half the size of the bit so I'm very happy with the result.
I reamed them using the Brownell's 2/0 reamer. It has a screw driver handle and doing it by hand was cumbersom but I found a deep well 15mm socket slipped over the handle and held well, making the reaming much easier. After that I just hammered in the taper pins.
Now all three blocks have pins and are rock solid. I checked by taking out the set screws and trying to move the block. None would budge. Of course I put the set screws back in (with locktite) just because.
I did learn that doing this with a .750" gas block seat is much easier than a .625". I measure and marked and then measured and marked and sweated drilling the .625" because there isn't a large margin for error. I got it right the first time, but I would hesitate to do someone elses rifle with a .625" seat without some sort of jig.
BufordTJustice
11-25-13, 11:45
NECRO-post!
Where are you folks sourcing your taper pins when you pin a gas block? I see that 87ind has a nice splined taper pin that I would LOVE to grab for my next project. Thanks in advance.
If I was going to install it myself I'd just buy one of the Geissele gas blocks that includes the taper pin:
http://geissele.com/supergasblock.aspx
BufordTJustice
11-25-13, 14:10
If I was going to install it myself I'd just buy one of the Geissele gas blocks that includes the taper pin:
http://geissele.com/supergasblock.aspx
That was my other option. Either drilling a BCM .750 block (or equivalent) or getting a geissele. However, as good as the roll-pin appears (and I"m sure it's more than adequate for the task), a taper pin like that found in this kit by 87ind seems stronger and....well...more "bombproof":
https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3939 (https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3939)
My searches have turned-up nothing so far, so the GA gasblock is prolly gonna get the nod. I'm using an RA Mountain series 18" barrel with rifle gas. It isn't dimpled, so I need to do that as well. Gonna be on a patrol upper, so I definitely want it to be pinned.
Also, going to use the McMaster-Carr knurled GB screws as rec'd by IG after I dimple the barrel:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90289a337/=pj95k2 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#90289a337/=pj95k2)
Then gonna use either Rocksett, Red Loctite 271, or Resbond 907TS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RESBOND-907TS-BLUE-HI-TEMP-2100-Degree-ADHESIVE-Pipe-Seal-THREADLOCKER-/400611977071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4655a76f) and a dab of green Loctite between the GB and the barrel as rec'd by Grant.
Yes, it's overkill. Nobody every complained of a gas block that was secured "too well". However, I've seen plenty of guns go down because one wasn't secured well enough. Lil-bit of OCD about this as well.
If anyone needs 303 stainless steel #2/0 x 5/8 in. taper pins shoot me a PM.
BufordTJustice
11-25-13, 20:06
If anyone needs 303 stainless steel #2/0 x 5/8 in. taper pins shoot me a PM.
You'll be seeing one from me tomorrow.
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If I was going to install it myself I'd just buy one of the Geissele gas blocks that includes the taper pin:
http://geissele.com/supergasblock.aspxNot a taper pin.
BufordTJustice
11-25-13, 21:17
Not a taper pin.
Correct. It looks to be a roll pin, or possibly two nested roll pins.
You may want to check out our MicroPin Gas Block.
http://www.blackrivertactical.com/concrete5/micropin-gas-block/
Its a precision fit gas block specifically designed to be easily pinned without a drill jig.
A flat face and center spot positively locate the drill bit in the optimal position.
It comes standard with those knurled screws and a spiral coil pin for extremely easy installation.
It can also be pinned with a taper pin or a straight pin using the appropriate reamer.
That was my other option. Either drilling a BCM .750 block (or equivalent) or getting a geissele. However, as good as the roll-pin appears (and I"m sure it's more than adequate for the task), a taper pin like that found in this kit by 87ind seems stronger and....well...more "bombproof":
https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3939 (https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3939)
My searches have turned-up nothing so far, so the GA gasblock is prolly gonna get the nod. I'm using an RA Mountain series 18" barrel with rifle gas. It isn't dimpled, so I need to do that as well. Gonna be on a patrol upper, so I definitely want it to be pinned.
Also, going to use the McMaster-Carr knurled GB screws as rec'd by IG after I dimple the barrel:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90289a337/=pj95k2 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#90289a337/=pj95k2)
Then gonna use either Rocksett, Red Loctite 271, or Resbond 907TS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RESBOND-907TS-BLUE-HI-TEMP-2100-Degree-ADHESIVE-Pipe-Seal-THREADLOCKER-/400611977071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4655a76f) and a dab of green Loctite between the GB and the barrel as rec'd by Grant.
Yes, it's overkill. Nobody every complained of a gas block that was secured "too well". However, I've seen plenty of guns go down because one wasn't secured well enough. Lil-bit of OCD about this as well.
BufordTJustice
11-25-13, 21:58
You may want to check out our MicroPin Gas Block.
http://www.blackrivertactical.com/concrete5/micropin-gas-block/
Its a precision fit gas block specifically designed to be easily pinned without a drill jig.
A flat face and center spot positively locate the drill bit in the optimal position.
It comes standard with those knurled screws and a spiral coil pin for extremely easy installation.
It can also be pinned with a taper pin or a straight pin using the appropriate reamer.
Color me interested, Clint. You wouldn't happen to sell the taper pins, would you?
EDIT: I REALLY like that you include those knurled set-screws.
DOUBLE EDIT: In your opinion, do you think much is gained in going with a taper pin versus your supplied spiral roll pin?
The knurled set-screws are the best choice this application, that's why we include them with the block.
The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.
If you like solid pins instead, we do offer a solid pinning kit for straight pins like Noveske uses.
The decision comes down to personal preference and ease of install.
The spiral coil pin works and is dead easy to install.
Just drill the hole and knock the pin in.
Taper pins and straight pins are slightly more difficult.
You need to drill an undersized hole, ream to size and then knock the pin in.
The solid pin reamer can just be run clean through, while the taper pin reamer needs to be reamed to a specific depth.
2/0 taper pins are commonly available in 3/4" length, which is a little long for low pro blocks, and must be trimmed or left long.
0.625" solid or coil pins are a perfect length.
Color me interested, Clint. You wouldn't happen to sell the taper pins, would you?
EDIT: I REALLY like that you include those knurled set-screws.
DOUBLE EDIT: In your opinion, do you think much is gained in going with a taper pin versus your supplied spiral roll pin?
The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.
Good to know. I recently had to change the gas tube on one of my SBRs. In the process of removing the VLTOR pinned gas block, I accidently lost the solid pin. I ended up replacing it with a roll pin I happened to have sitting around.
BufordTJustice
11-26-13, 08:42
The knurled set-screws are the best choice this application, that's why we include them with the block.
The solid pins are stronger in terms of absolute strength, but the requirements for a gas block fall more in line with fixing the location, rather than transmitting torque, so maximum strength is not required.
If you like solid pins instead, we do offer a solid pinning kit for straight pins like Noveske uses.
The decision comes down to personal preference and ease of install.
The spiral coil pin works and is dead easy to install.
Just drill the hole and knock the pin in.
Taper pins and straight pins are slightly more difficult.
You need to drill an undersized hole, ream to size and then knock the pin in.
The solid pin reamer can just be run clean through, while the taper pin reamer needs to be reamed to a specific depth.
2/0 taper pins are commonly available in 3/4" length, which is a little long for low pro blocks, and must be trimmed or left long.
0.625" solid or coil pins are a perfect length.
Thank you for the outstanding reply, Clint.
Part of the reason that I didn't pull the trigger on the 87ind pinned block was that it used only one set screw. I'm sure that was ifne, but yours uses two screws, applying even downward pressure on the gas journal by the block even before the pin is in place. A good little bit of overkill as far as the gas seal goes.
Now that I understand the purpose of the pin, I'm sold. Thanks for speaking up. :)
Hi,
Sorry if this is a redundant question. New to the forum and new to building an AR. I have a BCM BFH 16 dimpled barrel, with a VLTOR Low Profile Gas Block GB-2S (steel with set screws). Do I need to have this pinned to the barrel? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
Assuming that you are running a rail over it AND are doing the install properly with the correct loctites (yes two different ones), I would say that you will be fine.
C4
BufordTJustice
11-26-13, 10:16
Assuming that you are running a rail over it AND are doing the install properly with the correct loctites (yes two different ones), I would say that you will be fine.
C4
Grant, you mean the red (271) on the threads and the green (290) between the GB and barrel journal, correct?
One thing to keep in mind for those that are contemplating using Loctite whether it be the red or retaining compound, set screws, etc.... At some point you may need to remove the gas block so I would make sure you understand what it takes to do it properly and understand what will be necessary to remove everything as well.
Grant, you mean the red (271) on the threads and the green (290) between the GB and barrel journal, correct?
Yes. Recently, we had to remove a GB that we installed. Getting the red loctited screws out was EASY. Getting the GB off wasn't. I am of the opinion that I could install a GB with JUST green loctite and would have zero issues (no set screws or pinning done).
C4
BufordTJustice
11-26-13, 17:15
Yes. Recently, we had to remove a GB that we installed. Getting the red loctited screws out was EASY. Getting the GB off wasn't. I am of the opinion that I could install a GB with JUST green loctite and would have zero issues (no set screws or pinning done).
C4
Grant, without divulging any of your trade secrets, what was the basic method you used to get the GB to come free? Strap wrench, barrel vise, penetrating lube, and some elbow grease?
I'm aware that a proper installation that I'm contemplating is basically marrying Clint's GB to my barrel...and I'm okay with that.
Grant, without divulging any of your trade secrets, what was the basic method you used to get the GB to come free? Strap wrench, barrel vise, penetrating lube, and some elbow grease?
I'm aware that a proper installation that I'm contemplating is basically marrying Clint's GB to my barrel...and I'm okay with that.
We heat it a lot and then just work it. In some instances, you will ding the GB while removing it (FYI).
C4
BufordTJustice
11-26-13, 17:21
We heat it a lot and then just work it. In some instances, you will ding the GB while removing it (FYI).
C4
Gotcha. Thank you for clarifying.
NoveskeFan
11-26-13, 17:32
I was thinking of using Rocksett for the gas block screws. Is this ok to do?
I was thinking of using Rocksett for the gas block screws. Is this ok to do?
Doesn't work all that well because the threads are too small. Red loctite is the best method.
C4
NoveskeFan
11-26-13, 18:06
Didn't realize that. Thanks for the info.
How bad is Rockset? I ask because I used it when I installed my Syrac. Try to remove at least one screw and redo with red locktite? (I dimpled the barrel before block installation.)
Guess I could just send the barrel with the block installed to Rainier and have it pinned. BTW, the Syrac seems to work nicely on the overgassed DD 10.3" barrel with suppressor, but don't have enough rounds through it to know how it'll hold up.
BufordTJustice
11-28-13, 17:11
You may want to check out our MicroPin Gas Block.
http://www.blackrivertactical.com/concrete5/micropin-gas-block/
Its a precision fit gas block specifically designed to be easily pinned without a drill jig.
A flat face and center spot positively locate the drill bit in the optimal position.
It comes standard with those knurled screws and a spiral coil pin for extremely easy installation.
It can also be pinned with a taper pin or a straight pin using the appropriate reamer.
Order placed. :)
Got it!
Thank you!
Order placed. :)
I have one of the ,750 Black River blocks on a current barrel and Im getting ready to swap the barrel out. Once it has been drilled and pinned is it reusable?
Trying to re-pin it would most likely produce less than great results.
I've never tried it.
That's always the question with AR parts: to rebuild it or build a new one and sell the old one?
Everyone has different answers, but there is probably more value in leaving the block pinned to the current barrel and selling or re-using it as a set.
Just grab a new block for the new barrel and drive on.
As luck would have it, they're on sale now.
http://www.blackrivertactical.com/concrete5/sale/
I have one of the ,750 Black River blocks on a current barrel and Im getting ready to swap the barrel out. Once it has been drilled and pinned is it reusable?
BufordTJustice
12-04-13, 20:51
Clint, the Gas block came in today. It was packaged well and appears to be perfectly finished. I'm very pleased. All exterior edges have been gently broken/radiused. The finish quality is very high and a semi-glossy black. All threads look perfectly clean.
The only problem is that the Rainier Arms Mounatin Series 18" CHF barrel with rifle gas has a "match" size gas block journal that fits really tight. So I'm gonna use a little elbow grease to hone the inside of the gas black (rather than return it in favor of your slightly oversized GB, which would have been PERFECT).
I'm 100% pleased so far. Waiting on a dimpling jig for the barrel (which came undimpled) before install.
Why not just use the gasblock instead? Not as a jig but to mark the point at which to dimple. I think it was CoryCop that posted it in The custom forum. Seeing that post kind of made me regret ever getting the jig.
BufordTJustice
12-05-13, 09:40
Why not just use the gasblock instead? Not as a jig but to mark the point at which to dimple. I think it was CoryCop that posted it in The custom forum. Seeing that post kind of made me regret ever getting the jig.
I thought about that, but i don't want to damage the threads at all.
Do you have a link to Cory's thread? I'll at least take a look at it.
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Good deal.
"Match Journal"? What does the journal diameter mic at?
Clint, the Gas block came in today. It was packaged well and appears to be perfectly finished. I'm very pleased. All exterior edges have been gently broken/radiused. The finish quality is very high and a semi-glossy black. All threads look perfectly clean.
The only problem is that the Rainier Arms Mounatin Series 18" CHF barrel with rifle gas has a "match" size gas block journal that fits really tight. So I'm gonna use a little elbow grease to hone the inside of the gas black (rather than return it in favor of your slightly oversized GB, which would have been PERFECT).
I'm 100% pleased so far. Waiting on a dimpling jig for the barrel (which came undimpled) before install.
BufordTJustice
12-05-13, 12:02
Good deal.
"Match Journal"? What does the journal diameter mic at?
I use the term "match" loosley. I don't have a pair of calipers right now (they're on loan), but the gas block simply would not move forward into the raised portion of the journal. I have a spare FSB and it was too tight to fit properly either (wouldn't slide on the raised ledge past about 1/4").
The issue is the RA barrel, for sure. Though, I'm not unhappy with the barrel, that's just life sometimes.
Here you go bud. Post #35.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?118884-New-16in-LW-Midd/page2
BufordTJustice
12-05-13, 20:12
Here you go bud. Post #35.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?118884-New-16in-LW-Midd/page2
Thank you, sir. :)
That got me going. I just need a slightly larger drill bit to finish the dimples and I'll be done.
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If the journal is "oversized" enough, it may be easier to just use the oversized gas gas block for these barrels.
I'd be happy to send you the larger version to swap it out with.
I use the term "match" loosley. I don't have a pair of calipers right now (they're on loan), but the gas block simply would not move forward into the raised portion of the journal. I have a spare FSB and it was too tight to fit properly either (wouldn't slide on the raised ledge past about 1/4").
The issue is the RA barrel, for sure. Though, I'm not unhappy with the barrel, that's just life sometimes.
BufordTJustice
12-06-13, 04:26
If the journal is "oversized" enough, it may be easier to just use the oversized gas gas block for these barrels.
I'd be happy to send you the larger version to swap it out with.
I appreciate it, Clint. But with some sand paper, a glass of whiskey on the rocks, and some patience, I got the interior of this block fitting perfectly. I basically just had to remove most of the finish in the bore of the block for it to fit....so, not that much material.
I'm okay with a little fitting. I'd rather it be too snug than too loose. I was able to sand until it slid on, but there was still some force required (not quite a press fit...but close).
Thank you, sir. :)
That got me going. I just need a slightly larger drill bit to finish the dimples and I'll be done.
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Nice! Ya, it's a nifty trick that i can't believe never occurred to me before, or more folks for that matter. Lol!
BufordTJustice
12-08-13, 08:40
Nice! Ya, it's a nifty trick that i can't believe never occurred to me before, or more folks for that matter. Lol!
Agreed. It's definitely saved in my bookmarks.
I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. Nice, big dimples. Gonna be rock solid. I did skip the cold blue because my give-a-shit bone was broken at that point. Nobody is gonna see it.
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BufordTJustice
01-01-14, 16:07
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/zyra4eda.jpg
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BufordTJustice
01-01-14, 17:41
Just to test how well a field expedient install would go, i did just that.
A hand drill and patience equals a super easy install. The drill bit that is included with the kit is actually of decent quality and is very stiff. Didn't flex at all.
The roll pin is also sized perfectly in relation to the drill bit. Roll pin required a hammer, but went in relatively easily once the hammer was used. A strong, secure fit.
You simply can't beat the price, folks. The gas block itself is a steal at this price. I'm very pleased.
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I too recently bought a Black River Tactical gas block, and agree the block is nice. Under priced for the quality.
Just last night green and red loc tite-ed my new gas block. For the Holidays of course. Don't have access to a drill press just yet, so not pinned.
Off topic->
My group size shrunk a bit. Just using LC M193, my 5 shot strings were a bit under 2". A few much better than 2"
Was over 2 1/2" yesterday before I glued the block...
BufordTJustice
01-01-14, 20:01
I too recently bought a Black River Tactical gas block, and agree the block is nice. Under priced for the quality.
Just last night green and red loc tite-ed my new gas block. For the Holidays of course. Don't have access to a drill press just yet, so not pinned.
Off topic->
My group size shrunk a bit. Just using LC M193, my 5 shot strings were a bit under 2". A few much better than 2"
Was over 2 1/2" yesterday before I glued the block...
I opted not to do the green loctite between the block and barrel. But, I did use the Red 272 equivalent (Permatex Red High temp), which is the 450 degree flavor. Std red loctite is only rated to 300 degrees. IG has stated he's used the std 271 (300 degree) formula without issue, so YMMV.
Good deal.
Nice to see a hand drill works in a pinch.
That drill is a short shank cobalt bit selected specifically for this job.
Many people don't have a quality drill bit set on hand, so it was a natural choice to include it.
Just to test how well a field expedient install would go, i did just that.
A hand drill and patience equals a super easy install. The drill bit that is included with the kit is actually of decent quality and is very stiff. Didn't flex at all.
The roll pin is also sized perfectly in relation to the drill bit. Roll pin required a hammer, but went in relatively easily once the hammer was used. A strong, secure fit.
You simply can't beat the price, folks. The gas block itself is a steal at this price. I'm very pleased.
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BufordTJustice
01-01-14, 21:39
Good deal.
Nice to see a hand drill works in a pinch.
That drill is a short shank cobalt bit selected specifically for this job.
Many people don't have a quality drill bit set on hand, so it was a natural choice to include it.
Hot knife through butter. It just powered through the gas block and perfectly clipped the bottom of the barrel. It was still sharp to the touch after I was done with everything. I'm keeping the bit for a rainy day. It's clearly not a cheapy.
EDIT: I'll add that the McMaster-Carr knurled cup-tip set screws are a nice touch as well. They really dig into the barrel dimples HARD. I'm very pleased.
This is one of the best gas blocks for the price WITHOUT the first quality drill bit, pin-starter dimple on the GB body, and roll-pin.
Big Bronze Rim
01-03-14, 12:52
I received mine yesterday and will be installing it tonight. My initial impressions are that it is very high quality and a fantastic deal for the money. As mentioned, the gas block alone warrants the price. It includes everything you need for an install. The knurled set screw are very nice and the quality included drill bit is a nice touch. I don't anticipate any issues with the install.
I received mine yesterday and will be installing it tonight. My initial impressions are that it is very high quality and a fantastic deal for the money. As mentioned, the gas block alone warrants the price. It includes everything you need for an install. The knurled set screw are very nice and the quality included drill bit is a nice touch. I don't anticipate any issues with the install.
Big Bronze, thanks for the info. How'd it work out? Easy to install with a drill press?
Thanks
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