View Full Version : Home-brewed Glock grip reduction and stippling *update GFA pg4
This is a quick guide for those thinking of doing a grip reduction on a Glock.
I stippled my G19 last November, but after almost a year of shooting, I decided to go ahead and do a more aggressive grip reduction. The logic is to remove the rear bulb on the back of the grip to give it a more 1911-like straighter grip angle. The stock grip angle tends to make the gun point a little higher when gripping.
The guys at Boresight Solutions, Robar, and Bowie Tactical provides both grip reduction and stippling services. They're really good at what they do though, but I'm impatient and I want the satisfaction of doing it myself (and saving the money to buy ammo).
Default/stock:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6018/glock19default.jpg
State of my G19 prior to greater reduction.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4312/preside1.jpg
Whenever a more aggressive grip reduction is done, the cavity in the back of the frame has to be filled in. I used mariner epoxy and syringe.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5941/55590104.jpg
The cavity where the trigger housing area sits in needs to be blocked. If epoxy gets in there, you're F'd before you even really start.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/7815/95508479.jpg
I also taped off the magwell area using duct tape. The halfmoon relief cut on the rear wall of the magwell was filled with a quarter to prevent epoxy from spilling over.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2676/34495383.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/350/62731966.jpg
I waited for about 4 hours for the epoxy to fully set/dry before I pulled out the dremel to start grinding the back.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2207/88806617.jpg
Also started forming the inside bevel/funnel. Not really necessary, but I put it in to help aid reloads if I inserted the magazine at an off angle.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5842/25325527.jpg
More grinding/sanding.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2972/53546205.jpg
Test fit to grip to see if the angle was good enough or not.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8339/93080088.jpg
Started re-stippling process.
Gotta love the pigs...being politically incorrect to the radical hajs out there.
After cleaning/smoothing out the funnel/bevel area, painted it.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/806/magwell1.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/5940/magwell2.jpg
I felt it was mostly done at this point.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/461/side1y.jpg
But I decided to ground down the trigger guard to make reholstering easier for my conceal carry holster.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/1438/triggerguard.jpg
And finished.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2500/final1x.jpg
The reduction I did wasn't drastic, as I could have gone further. But the few inches/millimeters shaved off still makes a difference. I have large hands, so I didn't want the grip to be too narrow/thin. One thing The services Robar, Boresight, and others provide is expensive....because of the amount of labor and time involved. I can appreciate the skill and work those guys do...because it's one thing to do do it - and another to do it well. I'm nowhere as skilled as those guys either. This was a pain in the ass to do, with a lot of potentially of making your firearm non-functional if you don't know what you're doing.
CaracalUSA
10-11-10, 22:09
EXCELLENT job!!!!
1_click_off
10-11-10, 22:53
WOW! Looks great.
xrayoneone
10-11-10, 23:03
Yup great job. I had to do a double take, that one picture makes it look like you hade a chromed slide.
Wow. Good job!
How does it 'point' now? Is it anywhere like a 1911? I find that when I go from practicing draws with my other guns back to the Glock, I usually have to remember to roll my wrists a little bit further down. Would be nice to eliminate that.
Bolt_Overide
10-12-10, 01:17
Looks pretty good for a garage job, better than my first time.
What did you paint the epoxy with? Color match looks decent.
Also, how did the epoxy take your stippling?
Thanks guys. The glock points a little more 'naturally' for me now (and not as high).
The paint used was just Krylon Camo Black.
The epoxy itself can be stippled. I did not grind the back down to the epoxy itself, but I got very very close to it. I did stipple the epoxy area where the lanyard retention hole used to be at. There was no issue stippling the epoxy there.
Cool,
Job well done.
Did you grind the "frame plug" area by hand? If so nice attention to detail, very uniform in appearance.
That is bad ass. Motivation to do a grip reduction on my 17 and shoot it more.
Cool,
Job well done.
Did you grind the "frame plug" area by hand? If so nice attention to detail, very uniform in appearance.
Thanks. Yup, dremel, then different grits of sandpaper.
That is bad ass. Motivation to do a grip reduction on my 17 and shoot it more.
Thanks, but if you're fine with original grip angle, there's no need to change it. It's only shooting 1.5 years with it I decided to change it.
Thanks, but if you're fine with original grip angle, there's no need to change it. It's only shooting 1.5 years with it I decided to change it.
Well the g17 was purchased about 4 yrs ago, it was the first handgun. I find myself leaving it home more after shooting the m&p and warrior more often. I already stippled the 17 but id like to have consistency in grip angle while using the glock in the box. Love the glock reliability.
Excellent stippling/reduction work! By far the nicest that I have seen.
Thanks.
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/4960/sidef2.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/873/sidef3.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/4671/sidef1.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/1725/backfx.jpg
RogerinTPA
10-13-10, 20:17
Awesome job Kilo 1-1, well done!:cool:
LowSpeed_HighDrag
10-13-10, 22:58
Fantastic work, but Im far too scared to do this on my own.
When you said you filled the back channel with epoxy I immediately thought it would look like crap. I had a G19 that had been done like that once by someone else and it looked really bad. The color didn't match the frame and it was smoothed out or shaped like yours. I just couldn't get over how bad it looked and that was a major reason I sold the pistol ... well, that and I got my other G19 back from Ben @ Boresight and it was a MUCH better job.
Yours looks great. I like the fact you shaped and painted the epoxy too. It looks great. I suspect you could also fill the channel not quite to "full" and then cop it off with a back channel plug as an alternative. that would prob have solved my issue with the one I had. I thought about trying to bore out/remove enough to fit a plug in it but didn't want to risk it.
Great job.
Very nice! Shocker that you removed the retarded finger grooves and hump in the back. :D
C4
eternal24k
10-14-10, 09:14
Looks fantastic, I always love a good stipple with finger grove reduction.
A+ indeed
what did you do most of the grinding with?
Nice job. Did you practice stippling and other work on anything else prior to taking the leap?
I really want to give it a shot but I am more destructive with tools than constructive.
Thanks for the responses guys.
Very nice! Shocker that you removed the retarded finger grooves and hump in the back. :D
C4
You know it. :cool:
When you said you filled the back channel with epoxy I immediately thought it would look like crap. I had a G19 that had been done like that once by someone else and it looked really bad. The color didn't match the frame and it was smoothed out or shaped like yours. I just couldn't get over how bad it looked and that was a major reason I sold the pistol ... well, that and I got my other G19 back from Ben @ Boresight and it was a MUCH better job.
Yours looks great. I like the fact you shaped and painted the epoxy too. It looks great. I suspect you could also fill the channel not quite to "full" and then cop it off with a back channel plug as an alternative. that would prob have solved my issue with the one I had. I thought about trying to bore out/remove enough to fit a plug in it but didn't want to risk it.
Great job.
Man, the stuff that Ben does at Boresight is amazing. I didn't realize how hard this was until I did it myself...and my result is not as clean as what he has. I filled it all the way up because the frame became thinnest at the bottom. I've read reports of people using some plastic glass bedding mixes with dye mixed in that worked as well.
Looks fantastic, I always love a good stipple with finger grove reduction.
A+ indeed
what did you do most of the grinding with?
I used a Dremel with the heavy sanding head. I also had some heavy grit sand paper (for more of a 'manual' control) near the end. Ideally, a belt sander would be better for a uniform finish, but you could run the risk of removing too much material quickly if not careful.
Nice job. Did you practice stippling and other work on anything else prior to taking the leap?
I really want to give it a shot but I am more destructive with tools than constructive.
Not really, the only thing I stippled with the G19 were old KAC rail panels that I did earlier. The Glock's actually been restippled by me (2 or 3 times I think). I'm careful not to go too deep with stippling to compromise the frame.
How did you plug the area where the trigger gets pinned in the frame? I was going to send my 19 off to boresight but now you have me wanting to try this myself. Awsome job!;)
Wow! You did a great job. All I have been brave enough to do was grinding off the finger grooves.
EzGoingKev
10-15-10, 17:16
I've read reports of people using some plastic glass bedding mixes with dye mixed in that worked as well.
Firstly, nice job there.
I have been going back and forth on doing mine myself so I have looked into ways to do it.
I saw one guy drill holes from the back strap through the magwell. The epoxy fills in the holes and makes it hard for it to fall out. You would tape of the inside of the magwell so the epoxy doesn't ooze out and cause an obstruction.
While I have not done anything to a Glock, I have epoxied and plastic welded motorcycle bodywork. One thing I see guys doing is taking a small glass jar and putting some thinner it. Then they get a lego that is close to the color of what they want to fix and drop it in. The thinner breaks the lego down into like a liquid plastic. They put it on and it kinds of "melts" into the plastic they are fixing. I wondered how well using magazine base pad lock plates would work.
How did you plug the area where the trigger gets pinned in the frame? I was going to send my 19 off to boresight but now you have me wanting to try this myself. Awsome job!;)
I have seen guys use playdo or even push in a cheap disposable foam ear plug.
Nice job! It's a shame Glock can't just make their grips, minus the stippling, look like this from the factory. Get rid of the finger grooves and the hump.
Thanks guys.
jp0319, EzGoingKev pretty much nailed it. Just make sure whatever medium you use to plug it in, make sure it's thoroughly plugged in so no epoxy/bedding material goes into the cavity where the trigger assembly needs to be at.
I shot a couple hundred rounds of M882 +P today, mostly double taps. I'm thinking of toning down the texture on the top back area just a little bit...it might just be a little too rough/aggressive. :laugh:
Jesse Tischauser
12-16-10, 16:12
Looks good.
Picture in current combat handguns magazine shows Ben taking a Glock to a bandsaw for reduction. I'm thinking the backstrap is cut down and then epoxied back in place. I could be wrong though?;)
Picture in current combat handguns magazine shows Ben taking a Glock to a bandsaw for reduction. I'm thinking the backstrap is cut down and then epoxied back in place. I could be wrong though?;)
Nope, the gap is filled up first before the frame is grounded down.
Ben does awesome work at Boresight. I didn't really appreciate how work was involved until I tried doing a grip reduction myself.
Some newer photos with a stippled base plate.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6706/81214511.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/6901/rev2.jpg
That looks great man.
I think Robar actually adds to the material instead of stippling it.
Now that's a job well done! That's a project I would not want to undertake on my own.
:cool:
Now that's a job well done! That's a project I would not want to undertake on my own.
:cool:
Just do it. You'll be glad you did.
LowSpeed_HighDrag
12-16-10, 23:45
I apologize if this has been asked already, but how is the epoxy holding up these days?
looks great, I have never shot much less held a pistol that had stipple done to it, how does it feel on the hands and how well if any does it improve the grip?
pardon the noobish question but I am a noob when it comes to pistols.
looks great, I have never shot much less held a pistol that had stipple done to it, how does it feel on the hands and how well if any does it improve the grip?
pardon the noobish question but I am a noob when it comes to pistols.
Well, I asked my wife how the stipple job I did on my Glock felt and she said that it felt like holding a bar of pumice. Depending how aggressively you do the pattern, it call feel like a bar of pumice or it can feel almost like you coated the grip with skateboard tape. My pattern looks similar to Kilo1's as his was one of the guns I was referencing when I was doing mine.
At a recent class, the instructor had us try "Firm Grip Powder" on our hands when shooting our handguns and it noticeably improved my ability to hold onto the gun. This in turn led me to seriously consider stippling. You'll have to try it to see if this is the road you want to take with your gun.
Nice job! It's a shame Glock can't just make their grips, minus the stippling, look like this from the factory. Get rid of the finger grooves and the hump.
Amen...and round off that butt ugly ass trigger guard.
All that and add a thumb safety and we might finally have a decent product from Glock.
chapperjoe
12-17-10, 09:51
you got the angle perfect too.
in my opinion, both grip angles (front and rear) should be the same, as yours are.
most of the 'professional' grip reductions seem to taper the grip (front to rear) so that the top is longer than the bottom, just becuase they can remove the material, so they do.
some examples of what I consider 'wrong'
http://www.idarmament.com/images/large/textures/texture2.jpg
http://www.bowietacticalconcepts.com/sitebuilder/images/GLOCK_21_LOGO_PIX-1039x787.jpg
you got the angle perfect too.
in my opinion, both grip angles (front and rear) should be the same, as yours are.
most of the 'professional' grip reductions seem to taper the grip (front to rear) so that the top is longer than the bottom, just becuase they can remove the material, so they do.
AGREED!
I apologize if this has been asked already, but how is the epoxy holding up these days?
No issues yet, holding up very well after close to a thousand rounds post reduction.
you got the angle perfect too.
in my opinion, both grip angles (front and rear) should be the same, as yours are.
most of the 'professional' grip reductions seem to taper the grip (front to rear) so that the top is longer than the bottom, just becuase they can remove the material, so they do.
some examples of what I consider 'wrong'
The examples you posted (excellent work, regardless) have the angle on the back of the grip a bit more steeper to make it closer to the 1911 angle...but like with you, I prefer to have the same angle front and back.
It's a compromise since the front grip angle isn't as steep as 1911s.
http://theenduringdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/19111.jpg
But 1911s have the same angle front and back of the grip.
If I was going to grind down more on the rear, I would add epoxy to the front, bottom portion of the grip to try to keep the front and rear angles consistent. This is all mostly personal preference...and it's a lot more work that I chose not to do. ;)
But 1911s have the same angle front and back of the grip.
It is close, but the front and back straps of a M1911 are not the same angle. The frame increases in length towards the butt.
Ned C.'s M1911 "grip reduction" appears to make the angle of the mainspring housing parallel to that of the front strap.
If the Gripforce Adapter I have enroute for my G19 doesn't work out, I plan on trying this. Very well done!
I love my G19 and have already removed the grooves, but the hump in the back realy chaps my backside at times.
This is a necropost (of my own thread), but I got a 2nd G19 so I'd figure I'd throw some comparison pictures of my modded frame vs stock.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/562/dsc02760g.jpg
Reduced frame:
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8094/dsc02784v.jpg
http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9669/dsc02770j.jpg
Also thinned and textured the bottom of the trigger guard
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4138/dsc02781vy.jpg
Reduced on left:
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2557/dsc02780jc.jpg
any reason you didn't make a full magwell out of the cavity area? seems there's still some possibly snaggy areas.
Toyoland66
12-28-11, 19:42
Definitely one of the best jobs I have seen. A couple questions:
What did you use to outline the stippling
Which do you prefer shooting - the stock or the modded frame
any reason you didn't make a full magwell out of the cavity area? seems there's still some possibly snaggy areas.
There wasn't a real need to do so. I felt it was already relieved enough. Another reason was to reinforce the "tail" end of the grip with the filling.
Definitely one of the best jobs I have seen. A couple questions:
What did you use to outline the stippling
Which do you prefer shooting - the stock or the modded frame
Thanks. I used the flat head tip that came with my soldering iron.
I shoot well with either one. I 'prefer' this modded frame because I fitted it to my hand to get a higher grip specifically. It's mostly personal preference.
A well polished/broken in trigger is a higher priority for me (using stock OEM parts).
nobody knows
12-29-11, 11:43
What type of Epoxy did you use? I used a marine Epoxy that would take a stipple job. Now I need to find some way of adding texture, but I'm about to do another and don't want to use the same stuff I used last time. Thanks and great job vary well done.
What type of Epoxy did you use? I used a marine Epoxy that would take a stipple job. Now I need to find some way of adding texture, but I'm about to do another and don't want to use the same stuff I used last time. Thanks and great job vary well done.
I used Marine Epoxy as well. If I was to do another grip reduction, I'd do the melt/form the frame method. I'd never tried it, but I was told you can't get as much of a reduction with it, but at least nothing is grounded off and you still have the original material to work with.
Excellent job on the reduction and stippling.
I also took off the trigger guard hook and finger bumps
http://oi52.tinypic.com/svovol.jpg
contax_shooter
02-18-12, 09:25
Bumping this thread because Kilo's work is great.
From my observation, would it be better to form the hump inwards towards the cavity using the heat method and then filling it back up with epoxy for further reduction?
This would result in more of the original polymer material leftover for consistent stippling in the end.
Bumping this thread because Kilo's work is great.
From my observation, would it be better to form the hump inwards towards the cavity using the heat method and then filling it back up with epoxy for further reduction?
This would result in more of the original polymer material leftover for consistent stippling in the end.
Yes, that would make more sense if done correctly.
If one wants to do a reduction only to change the grip angle, I recommend looking at the Grip Force Adapter. They started shipping out the 2nd gen (smooth tail) along with the original one (buy one get one free).
I don't have one mounted on my stock RTF G19 frame, but here's one on my modded frame. Now it's really more like a '1911' backstrap/angle.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/s1.jpg
contax_shooter
02-18-12, 10:54
My hands are small (Mechanix glove size small) so my thumb doesn't reach the extended magazine release without breaking my grip. The GFA is certainly not an option because its only going to create a further distance.
I'm still doing a little snooping around to see what type of filler is most optimal for this. There are some mentioning glass beads and black dye into the mixture.
Thanks for your help, Kilo.
My hands are small (Mechanix glove size small) so my thumb doesn't reach the extended magazine release without breaking my grip. The GFA is certainly not an option because its only going to create a further distance.
I'm still doing a little snooping around to see what type of filler is most optimal for this. There are some mentioning glass beads and black dye into the mixture.
Thanks for your help, Kilo.
No problem....check out Brownells for the filling medium. They have the stuff that's specific for grip reductions for glock (including the correct color for this).
I'm glad this thread was bumped. I recently switched to Glocks from M&Ps as my primary pistol, training, comps, etc. I have a Gen 2 23 that's stippled and cerakoted. I received a Gen 4 Glock 17 at Christmas but wanted to shoot it before any mods. I did a "Home-Brewed" stippling job on my M&P Pro that was functionally great. But, I've been going back and forth on whether or not to ship the 17 to a professional shop or to do it myself. With my good experience on the M&P and viewing this thread I decided to give in to myself to do this at home.
I did not remove the rear bulb, I need a little more research, testing, and expoxy product trial before i try that out. I will put a couple more thousand rounds in to decide necessity.
Stock Gen 4 Glock 17(I know you've all seen them, but its for comparison):
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0001.jpg
Initial reduction: Knocked off the finger grooves and stock checkering with a Dremel. If you would like practice with this try it out on removing the finger bump on an A2 pistol grip. The checkering was just knocked down flat.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0191.jpg
Tips on the stippling. Irons with cords are better than battery powered irons. This is time intensive and a set of batteries will only be good for about 1 side(learned this on the M&P). Have a metal file on hand to knock off the polymer that melts to the iron's tip.(This will make the impressions more precise to what your intentions are). For the outlining of the pattern some people use pencils, I used a map pen(I dont know what civilians call these. Military uses to draw on lamenated maps and it wipes off with alcohol.) I used a dot stippling on the M&P, however I went with what I've read called "tree bark" design. I cannot comment on shooting as I finished this an hour ago. It's more appealing to my eye and feels to have the same amount of grip.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0204-1.jpg
The Gen 4 back straps still work on this which is why i didnt stipple into those fitting channels that are on the side.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0203.jpg
Kilo 1-1 I hope you do not take this as a thread high jack or attempted one upsmanship. I decided to do this when I did it based on your thread. I hope like you this can be an example for others that they can do this themselves if they so choose.
Edit: I'm also waiting on my Vanguard 2 to arrive before I do any modification to the trigger guard.
Smash, no need to feel that it was a hi-jack. The point of this thread was to share information, so your work is much welcomed.
Good work on the tree-bark like texture. I generally find the G17 angle to not be as pronounced as the G19...since the hump is further down on the frame. If hand size isn't an issue, look into the GFA to help straighten up the angle if needed.
Side note, I grounded off the texture on the GFA's back strap and stippled it to make it uniform with my frame. I'll get pictures up later.
Doing this made the back a little thinner...which is what I wanted since my frame is already reduced.
contax_shooter
02-20-12, 09:55
Well I'm still researching for a good filler for an extreme reduction since most of the material up top needs to be removed for the most benefit for my small hands. The material on the 4th Gen's barely have any material around the takedown pin and I need to remove just as much yet I'm afraid of compromising the structural strength on my 3rd Gen.
Meanwhile, I figured I'd open up the magazine release well for a start. It's not cleaned up yet because I may take off more material for a smoother angle on the well.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/17948876499/1/tumblr_lzp84aaGiE1qaq58u
You did a really clean job on beveling the mag release area.
Although you can't really thin out the top portion of the frame that much (as you mentioned), thinning out the hump on the bottom will still help your thumb reach the mag release by shifting the grip slightly forward (b/c of smaller diameter).
Some excellent work done all around. Very nice.
I have a Gen2 G17 that I'm thinking of converting to a G19 sized frame.
As nice as this work is, does it limit you in what classes or competitions you take? I'd hate to find out that my newly customized G17rauchman can't be used for a class or comp.
Thoughts?
Here is a G19 a buddy of mine did for me. He reduces the frame and flattens the backstrap a little as well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/jbreamsiii/Sale052910008.jpg
I decided to give it a go on my CM9. Not too bad for a first attempt and really sticks better in the hand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/jbreamsiii/430950_3174322595030_1174517690_3391622_1418690772_n.jpg
contax_shooter
02-20-12, 13:10
Thanks for the support, Kilo.
After getting all the jitters out of hacking a $500 piece of plastic when I was fine tuning the magazine release well, I started itching for more work. So step 2 was removing the finger grooves.
I get the Dremel out and started taking off the majority of the humps. Then strapped some 220 grit sand paper on a 2x4 and started slowly sanding for the finishing angle and radius of the sides. Total time for the finger groove process was 1 hour.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/17959140306/1/tumblr_lzpgv3IVyK1qaq58u
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6911331655_30f9896e52_b.jpg
Some excellent work done all around. Very nice.
I have a Gen2 G17 that I'm thinking of converting to a G19 sized frame.
As nice as this work is, does it limit you in what classes or competitions you take? I'd hate to find out that my newly customized G17rauchman can't be used for a class or comp.
Thoughts?
I dont know of any reason it couldnt be used for a class, unless what you do causes it to be completely unsafe and I can not find a way you could possibly do that.
As for competitions, read the different organizations rules and regulations for requirements. Worst case scenario it puts you into a different class, but it won't bar you from competition. Unless you're a top end shooter trying to win a national event in a certain class I wouldnt get too wrapped around it. But again just look at what the regulations are. I know most have pictorial outlines of where things like stippling can and cannot be.
[/QUOTE]
I don't have one mounted on my stock RTF G19 frame, but here's one on my modded frame. Now it's really more like a '1911' backstrap/angle.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/s1.jpg[/QUOTE]
I like the way this look a lot, how much time do you think you have in making these modification?
I like the way this look a lot, how much time do you think you have in making these modification?
I worked on it on and off over a period of a few years as I became more knowledgeable and experienced....so I cant really give you an estimate.
Alright, I finally got some pictures of the modified GFA. When grabbing the G19....it finally feels a little more integral to the frame. I had to be careful doing this...because the GFA itself is already pretty thin. All I did was ground off the back checkering then stippled it carefully.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/P1030700.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/P1030701.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/s1.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/s2.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/angle1.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/gerbera924/G19%20GFA/V2/angle2.jpg
I dont know of any reason it couldnt be used for a class, unless what you do causes it to be completely unsafe and I can not find a way you could possibly do that.
As for competitions, read the different organizations rules and regulations for requirements. Worst case scenario it puts you into a different class, but it won't bar you from competition. Unless you're a top end shooter trying to win a national event in a certain class I wouldnt get too wrapped around it. But again just look at what the regulations are. I know most have pictorial outlines of where things like stippling can and cannot be.
Thanks!
wwright521
02-20-12, 22:38
I am just curious what plugging that area in the Mag well does? Figured i would ask so i could stop wondering.
Toyoland66
02-20-12, 22:48
I am just curious what plugging that area in the Mag well does? Figured i would ask so i could stop wondering.
There are two types of grip reduction on a glock:
One type uses heat to soften and then flatten the rear bump. The more common type is a fill and grind reduction where the cavity behind the mag well is filled with epoxy, and then the plastic on the rear hump is ground down. The epoxy is there to maintain the structural integrity of the grip since the plastic is being thinned down, or in some cases ground through completely.
contax_shooter
02-20-12, 23:32
I'm combining both methods for the maximum grip reduction.
So far, I have used the heat method to reshape the hump so I have more material to work with in the end.
I'm going to grab some Marine epoxy tomorrow morning and fill in the cavity, then let it fully set for a day. Will update when I the epoxy is cured.
contax_shooter
02-21-12, 07:52
So I didn't bother to get the epoxy and fill the cavity.
With the heat method of reforming the hump, I was able to get it toned down quite a bit. After that, I got a long piece of 2x4 with some 100 grit sand paper and started to straighten out the back strap. I removed enough material to only get rid of the stock checkering on the highest part of the hump. Then I slowly put a radius with a small block of a 2x4 using 150 grit then working my way up to 220 grit. The stippling was a quick job to finish the job but I will rework the pattern.
At this point, I have the ability to fill the cavity in but I do not feel it's necessary. I'll have to bust out the calipers to measure the thickness of the material I have left.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18008170126/1/tumblr_lzqw8vg3rH1qaq58u
http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzqw8vg3rH1qaq58uo2_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1329918738&Signature=QrTFRKZKRY4GK2REZ%2BR%2FRicPxVA%3D
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6916113403_d54e244ccc_b.jpg
I am just curious what plugging that area in the Mag well does? Figured i would ask so i could stop wondering.
It also prevents junk from making it into the internals of the gun. Even with out a grip reduction lots of glockers put plugs in there to help keep debris out.
contax_shooter
02-21-12, 08:13
It also prevents junk from making it into the internals of the gun. Even with out a grip reduction lots of glockers put plugs in there to help keep debris out.
Anybody thing it's a good idea to buy those plugs with the feed ramp and use some Loctite Plastic epoxy to weld it into the cavity? It seems it will improve the structural rigidity of the frame at its weakest point which is the opening. Also an alternative to completely filling in the cavity especially with the grip reduction process I went through.
Really nice work from everyone.
A question....
When removing a lot of material from the front strap, is there a worry at all about structural integrity? I wonder w/ all the material removed, does the grip seem to flex more or feel flimsy?
No flex or flimsy feel at all. I will only say this is true if you remove only the finger grooves and the checkering. Any more removal than that and I can not comment because I have not personally taken it down any farther.
contax_shooter
02-21-12, 20:13
Update: I filled the cavity with Loctite Marine epoxy. The original color was white so I added some black Rit dye in liquid form but this was the darkest shade I can be comfortable without diluting the epoxy content too much. Now the waiting game.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzrvaqXVGC1qaq58uo1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1329962973&Signature=q0nganhWIB%2FnsWkoMZgS8dy0Opc%3D
So I didn't bother to get the epoxy and fill the cavity.
With the heat method of reforming the hump, I was able to get it toned down quite a bit. After that, I got a long piece of 2x4 with some 100 grit sand paper and started to straighten out the back strap. I removed enough material to only get rid of the stock checkering on the highest part of the hump. Then I slowly put a radius with a small block of a 2x4 using 150 grit then working my way up to 220 grit. The stippling was a quick job to finish the job but I will rework the pattern.
At this point, I have the ability to fill the cavity in but I do not feel it's necessary. I'll have to bust out the calipers to measure the thickness of the material I have left.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6916113403_d54e244ccc_b.jpg
Outstanding work flattening the bottom hump, but I noticed there's some warping at bottom of the grip. It shouldn't affect functioning or structural integrity...but someone trying this out could put in some support plug in the mag well (either like a wood medium so it wouldn't warp as well either).
You've crossed into the dark side....there's no turning back now. Are you going to stipple/re-texture the frame?
Did you also fill the cavity where the trigger mech housing sits in with some clay/play-doh before filling the back with epoxy?
wwright521
02-21-12, 21:13
Ok thanks guys..
contax_shooter
02-21-12, 21:18
Thanks Kilo!
The magazine still drops free but I'm going to open it back up once everything is all done because my attention to detail is kicking my ass.. Probably warm it up just a bit and insert the magazine with a shim to re-contour it a bit.
I did plug up the housing area with Play-Doh and made sure there wasn't any light sneaking through.
Now I have to just patiently wait for the epoxy to fully cure. Although the reduction did help my grip, I still have to break my grip ever so slightly now to reach the magazine release. For this very reason, I will not stipple the entire frame but rather just the back strap area.
Thanks Kilo!
The magazine still drops free but I'm going to open it back up once everything is all done because my attention to detail is kicking my ass.. Probably warm it up just a bit and insert the magazine with a shim to re-contour it a bit.
I did plug up the housing area with Play-Doh and made sure there wasn't any light sneaking through.
Now I have to just patiently wait for the epoxy to fully cure. Although the reduction did help my grip, I still have to break my grip ever so slightly now to reach the magazine release. For this very reason, I will not stipple the entire frame but rather just the back strap area.
If your magazine drops free, no need to re-contour the frame since heated plastic isn't always predictable to work with....and it's possible you could warp it even more.
Are you using the extended mag release? I used the OEM one and shaved it down a little and I can release it w/o breaking my grip too much. It's not a 100% perfect reach since my frame is modified to achieve a higher grip...which results in the release sitting a little 'lower' for me. This wasn't something I didn't anticipate when working on the frame. Live and learn on my part.
-----------------------
Side note,
Seemed my bandwidth went over on my photobucket account. I reposted this picture under a different server.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6919366973_e101a382b9_b.jpg
how do you mimic the factory texture that is on the bulk of the ungrippy parts of the frame?
i want to remove the finger grooves without ending up looking like it's obvious that i removed the finger grooves.
contax_shooter
02-22-12, 08:29
how do you mimic the factory texture that is on the bulk of the ungrippy parts of the frame?
i want to remove the finger grooves without ending up looking like it's obvious that i removed the finger grooves.
It's all about getting the proper shape of a soldering iron or wood burner and getting a consistent pattern you are happy with. Practice on other plastic materials like the magazine loader Glock provides.
Woke up extra early this morning to start reshaping the speedwell. I painted the area to make the edges more defined to later put the finishing touch to it. Too bad I have to get to work so it's going to having to wait for tonight.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18069905471/1/tumblr_lzste4h2Hu1qaq58u
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18069905471/2/tumblr_lzste4h2Hu1qaq58u
If your magazine drops free, no need to re-contour the frame since heated plastic isn't always predictable to work with....and it's possible you could warp it even more.
Are you using the extended mag release? I used the OEM one and shaved it down a little and I can release it w/o breaking my grip too much. It's not a 100% perfect reach since my frame is modified to achieve a higher grip...which results in the release sitting a little 'lower' for me. This wasn't something I didn't anticipate when working on the frame. Live and learn on my part.
I've been using the Glock OEM extended mag release since day one. My grip needs to be broken and Glock rotated slightly to reach the release. The reduction does help tremendously.
Update:
I still have a little time so rounded off the edges a little more and put another light coat of paint. My project is finally complete, I think.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18071358813/1/tumblr_lzsvino8771qaq58u
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18071358813/2/tumblr_lzsvino8771qaq58u
rockmyglock
09-03-12, 18:28
I hate to necro post again, but this is the best home-brew Glock mod thread I have ever seen. A few questions:
Chris, how did you achieve the bark texture on the Glock? Was it just a different tip on the iron?
How do these fair with skin contact for CC (OP and Chris)? Did y'all have to mute the ridges of the stipple with fine sandpaper?
I've been debating on an Acraglass with dye vs Marine-Tex and getting it Cerakoted. I intend to take a good amount off the backstrap so whatever filler is used will definitely be exposed and need to be re-finished (unless a close color-match like with the Acraglass). Either that or go with the bed-liner vs stipple mod.
Chris, how has the Cerakote held up on the polymer frame? Did you DIY or send it off somewhere?
TIA for the replies.
I'm glad this thread was bumped. I recently switched to Glocks from M&Ps as my primary pistol, training, comps, etc. I have a Gen 2 23 that's stippled and cerakoted. I received a Gen 4 Glock 17 at Christmas but wanted to shoot it before any mods. I did a "Home-Brewed" stippling job on my M&P Pro that was functionally great. But, I've been going back and forth on whether or not to ship the 17 to a professional shop or to do it myself. With my good experience on the M&P and viewing this thread I decided to give in to myself to do this at home.
I did not remove the rear bulb, I need a little more research, testing, and expoxy product trial before i try that out. I will put a couple more thousand rounds in to decide necessity.
Stock Gen 4 Glock 17(I know you've all seen them, but its for comparison):
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0001.jpg
Initial reduction: Knocked off the finger grooves and stock checkering with a Dremel. If you would like practice with this try it out on removing the finger bump on an A2 pistol grip. The checkering was just knocked down flat.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0191.jpg
Tips on the stippling. Irons with cords are better than battery powered irons. This is time intensive and a set of batteries will only be good for about 1 side(learned this on the M&P). Have a metal file on hand to knock off the polymer that melts to the iron's tip.(This will make the impressions more precise to what your intentions are). For the outlining of the pattern some people use pencils, I used a map pen(I dont know what civilians call these. Military uses to draw on lamenated maps and it wipes off with alcohol.) I used a dot stippling on the M&P, however I went with what I've read called "tree bark" design. I cannot comment on shooting as I finished this an hour ago. It's more appealing to my eye and feels to have the same amount of grip.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0204-1.jpg
The Gen 4 back straps still work on this which is why i didnt stipple into those fitting channels that are on the side.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g342/F2SConsulting/DSC_0203.jpg
Kilo 1-1 I hope you do not take this as a thread high jack or attempted one upsmanship. I decided to do this when I did it based on your thread. I hope like you this can be an example for others that they can do this themselves if they so choose.
Edit: I'm also waiting on my Vanguard 2 to arrive before I do any modification to the trigger guard.
I hate to necro post again, but this is the best home-brew Glock mod thread I have ever seen. A few questions:
Chris, how did you achieve the bark texture on the Glock? Was it just a different tip on the iron?
How do these fair with skin contact for CC (OP and Chris)? Did y'all have to mute the ridges of the stipple with fine sandpaper?
I've been debating on an Acraglass with dye vs Marine-Tex and getting it Cerakoted. I intend to take a good amount off the backstrap so whatever filler is used will definitely be exposed and need to be re-finished (unless a close color-match like with the Acraglass). Either that or go with the bed-liner vs stipple mod.
Chris, how has the Cerakote held up on the polymer frame? Did you DIY or send it off somewhere?
TIA for the replies.
The bark texture was done with one of the tips that came with the iron. I can only describe it as a "chisel" tips. Two flat sides that angle towards each other to create a wedge but one side is higher than the other. This created a very sharp point at the top. I can take a picture when I get back from Texas tomorrow.
Basically while the tip was very hot I drug it vertically and started with light pressure at the beginning applied pressure in the middle and released pressure as I exited each swipe. Keep in mind these are very quick short strokes. You're basically making a sweeping motion vertically.
At our last class in WV I carried the glock pictured AIWB for 8 hours on the final day and didn't mind it. I had a little redness on my skin. But it went away quickly. I was not sitting and standing all day. But I was standing, walking, and running though.
I knocked down harsh parts with a Dremel. This got rid of painful polymer peaks(no alliteration intended) for both my hands and stomach. This method is just a little quicker and more precise than sand paper.
The cerakote has done well. The only portions that have lost the coating is the polymer portions of the frame that have to pass through the retention molding on my kydex holsters.
(This is in reference to the gray Glock I had done. Pictures in the Glock picture thread.)The grip is nicer with the cerakote on. Feels chalky even with sweaty hands. I sent it off to a guy in Texas when I was down a while back.
rockmyglock
09-03-12, 19:21
Thanks for the tips (no pun intended). :p If it is the tip I am thinking of, I believe I may have one floating around. Pics to verify would be greatly appreciated.
The bark texture was done with one of the tips that came with the iron. I can only describe it as a "chisel" tips. Two flat sides that angle towards each other to create a wedge but one side is higher than the other. This created a very sharp point at the top. I can take a picture when I get back from Texas tomorrow.
rockmyglock
09-03-12, 19:37
Link to Smash's coated Glock for cross-reference:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=1188103&postcount=1882
For those interested and with weak Google-Fu
After carrying a stipple gun for around 2 years, I prefer a finer texture.
This is the texture I just completed for my G17 (also a CCW piece along) with a minimal grip reduction (grooves, heated/reshaped hump, very minimal).
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3172/26797112.jpg
My G19 (primary CCW, the one featured in this thread) currently has a reworked pebble-like texture to it that works well as well.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9900/g19ccw.jpg
rockmyglock
09-04-12, 23:25
After carrying a stipple gun for around 2 years, I prefer a finer texture.
This is the texture I just completed for my G17 (also a CCW piece along) with a minimal grip reduction (grooves, heated/reshaped hump, very minimal).
How did you accomplish the finer texture? Was this just by pressing a regular soldering tip in lighter/holding it there for less time?
How did you accomplish the finer texture? Was this just by pressing a regular soldering tip in lighter/holding it there for less time?
Fine tip and going lightly when pressing in.
rockmyglock
09-05-12, 15:58
Smash, how do you like the vertical bark for recoil management? Do you think that if the grain ran horizontal it would offer any additional grip when the gun "flips"?
Obviously, it wouldn't look as pretty (elegant?) as the vertical bark. This texturing choice (bark) being one of my favorites (aesthetically speaking).
Smash, how do you like the vertical bark for recoil management? Do you think that if the grain ran horizontal it would offer any additional grip when the gun "flips"?
Obviously, it wouldn't look as pretty (elegant?) as the vertical bark. This texturing choice (bark) being one of my favorites (aesthetically speaking).
I think the direction of the stippling is transparent. If the stippling is deep and aggressive enough for you to feel like you're getting a solid grip that is all that matters.
Amontgomery
09-08-12, 00:36
I've done similar work to my G17 and a few other Glocks, but felt I had something to add that might help some folks out who are trying this on their own.
When you are attempting to remove the finger grooves, save the polymer shavings. When you get the finger grooves level with the top of the checkering, stop sanding/grinding. At that point take your shavings and collect them into a pile. Your wood-burner should have a flat "spoon" attachment. Use this attachment to heat and flow the shavings on top of the checkering. Do this where ever you are planning on stippling. Treat it like bondo/body filler on a car and work it slowly in thin coats until it is a bit higher than you like. Then take a bit of sandpaper and sand it smooth until you get your contour correct. You then have a smooth surface to begin stippling on, which makes things much easier.
Another cool tip for having an easier time with it; If you look at the side panels of the Glock that already have slight texture, you will notice that they are above the rest of the grip just slightly, this is very hard to refinish as the tip of your woodburner will tend to slip and slide and never make constant contact. If you take that same "spoon" from my previous tip and use a bit of the polymer shavings you can make a bridge and in doing so smooth/melt down the edge of the panel to make it a smooth transition to the rest of the grip. This prevents having a sharp transition from where the panel was previously, if you plan on doing a 360* stipple job.
Just a bit of time here and there can really improve the way the end product appears, if you worry about appearance.
Awesome job... I have never been a Glock guy. I just did not like the way they felt in my hand. This thread makes me want to get one now and give this a shot. Kilo, do you have a close up pic of the new texture?
Jeremy
Thanks guys! I used some of the tips on here I gave it a try. I removed a little area at the back of the trigger guard for comfort. I also removed the steps on my Glock 19's trigger, stippled it very lightly so it has a slight pebble texture no slip but no steps either and still safe. I removed the finger grooves I have always hated and stippled the grip. Front strap is not as aggressive on the backstrap or sides. I also stippled half of the underside of the trigger guard. Shoots great and solid grip. Thanks for the tips.
Awesome job... I have never been a Glock guy. I just did not like the way they felt in my hand. This thread makes me want to get one now and give this a shot. Kilo, do you have a close up pic of the new texture?
Jeremy
After I worked on the G17 I redid the G19 texture to make it a little more aggressive. The G19's pebble texture was too slick. I'll get pictures later, but this last texture is a winner in my books....just right where I like it to be.
TrenchArtisan
09-19-12, 23:32
After I worked on the G17 I redid the G19 texture to make it a little more aggressive. The G19's pebble texture was too slick. I'll get pictures later, but this last texture is a winner in my books....just right where I like it to be.
Will you kindly tell us all exactly what make/model your burner is?
TIA
Will you kindly tell us all exactly what make/model your burner is?
TIA
Couldn't tell you what model it is as I don't have the packaging anymore. It was a non-name brand soldering iron I bought from Big Lots years ago. It was like $5 or $6.
http://imageshack.us/a/img846/2514/88803989.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img708/2252/78429164.jpg
RC51_Texas
09-20-12, 18:52
Looks good! Makes me want to break out the soldering iron, but my hands aren't that steady and my patience is thin!!
4DAIVI PAI2K5
09-20-12, 19:53
http://imageshack.us/a/img846/2514/88803989.jpg
Thats a super fine stipple
Thats a super fine stipple
Thanks. It's not as 'fine' as the G17, as this one's a little more aggressive.
Fire_Medic
09-21-12, 07:15
Smash- What attachment are you using on the dremel to knock down the checkering and the finger grooves?
Thanks
FM
The bark texture was done with one of the tips that came with the iron. I can only describe it as a "chisel" tips. Two flat sides that angle towards each other to create a wedge but one side is higher than the other. This created a very sharp point at the top. I can take a picture when I get back from Texas tomorrow.
Basically while the tip was very hot I drug it vertically and started with light pressure at the beginning applied pressure in the middle and released pressure as I exited each swipe. Keep in mind these are very quick short strokes. You're basically making a sweeping motion vertically.
At our last class in WV I carried the glock pictured AIWB for 8 hours on the final day and didn't mind it. I had a little redness on my skin. But it went away quickly. I was not sitting and standing all day. But I was standing, walking, and running though.
I knocked down harsh parts with a Dremel. This got rid of painful polymer peaks(no alliteration intended) for both my hands and stomach. This method is just a little quicker and more precise than sand paper.
The cerakote has done well. The only portions that have lost the coating is the polymer portions of the frame that have to pass through the retention molding on my kydex holsters.
(This is in reference to the gray Glock I had done. Pictures in the Glock picture thread.)The grip is nicer with the cerakote on. Feels chalky even with sweaty hands. I sent it off to a guy in Texas when I was down a while back.
NeoNeanderthal
09-21-12, 07:54
So I didn't bother to get the epoxy and fill the cavity.
With the heat method of reforming the hump, I was able to get it toned down quite a bit. After that, I got a long piece of 2x4 with some 100 grit sand paper and started to straighten out the back strap. I removed enough material to only get rid of the stock checkering on the highest part of the hump. Then I slowly put a radius with a small block of a 2x4 using 150 grit then working my way up to 220 grit. The stippling was a quick job to finish the job but I will rework the pattern.
At this point, I have the ability to fill the cavity in but I do not feel it's necessary. I'll have to bust out the calipers to measure the thickness of the material I have left.
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/tacticallurk/18008170126/1/tumblr_lzqw8vg3rH1qaq58u
http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzqw8vg3rH1qaq58uo2_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1329918738&Signature=QrTFRKZKRY4GK2REZ%2BR%2FRicPxVA%3D
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6916113403_d54e244ccc_b.jpg
What did you use to heat the hump? Heat gun? Oven? Candle?
Will you kindly tell us all exactly what make/model your burner is?
TIA
I used this one. It was about $14 at Lowes:
13623
I have large hands and never like the feel of the smaller G19. I used a BBQ lighter to mash the hump flat. After several hours with the fine tip, I love the results. It really made this pistol fit.
13624
BTW, nice work Kilo!
Fire_Medic
09-24-12, 13:45
Nice work Atchcraft. I bought the same one from Lowe's, I did not like how it came out the first time so I re-did it yesterday. Now I'm happy with both the texture and the look. I too used a BBQ lighter to heat up the hump, and then pressed it down on my work bench to flatten it out. It took a few times as I preferred doing it little by little than doing too much, but it worked like a charm.
Mine is a Gen 4 G19, can't wait to get my new M&P mid size 45 to stipple the grip on that one.
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/IMG_5634_zps655c6bae.jpg
Thanks. That FDE looks great, I was wondering how that color would turn out. I found the trick with the hump was to heat and hold it for about 30 seconds so it would set. Then I threw it in the freezer for a minute or two. I also used the little "spade tip" to shape and conture, so not a lot of sanding.
Fire_Medic
09-24-12, 19:34
Thanks. That FDE looks great, I was wondering how that color would turn out. I found the trick with the hump was to heat and hold it for about 30 seconds so it would set. Then I threw it in the freezer for a minute or two. I also used the little "spade tip" to shape and conture, so not a lot of sanding.
I tore into it again today, lol.
Wanted to clean up the stippling on the side of the frame behind the trigger/trigger guard above the mag release. Also did/doing more work to the trigger guard itself. What I'm trying to figure out now is what to use to "finish" the polymer in areas that were sanded down but that I do not want to stipple where the discoloration is.
Gonna try some 220 grit paper by hand and then wet sanding it with 2000 grit to see if that works. I relieved the area around the trigger guard (the top portion), to see if it helps with the grip and also to remove some of the stippling from the first go around that wasn't too deep, so I can etch it out better and finish the stippling in a better way.
Once again Kilo has been a big help.
Edit: Pics added for the purpose of illustration, this is not meant to be a thread hijack, Kilo if it's off base let me know and I will remove them. I figure all of us doing this with your inspiration could just post in here versus having multiple threads going on the same thing.
These pics were after tearing into it again today:
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/IMG_5637.jpg
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/IMG_5638.jpg
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/IMG_5639.jpg
Can I play? I still need to do some final clean up and paint to make it look 100%, but it works for me
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii580/gunzforsale/20120925_082248.jpg
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii580/gunzforsale/20120925_082309.jpg
I tore into it again today, lol.
Wanted to clean up the stippling on the side of the frame behind the trigger/trigger guard above the mag release. Also did/doing more work to the trigger guard itself. What I'm trying to figure out now is what to use to "finish" the polymer in areas that were sanded down but that I do not want to stipple where the discoloration is.
Gonna try some 220 grit paper by hand and then wet sanding it with 2000 grit to see if that works. I relieved the area around the trigger guard (the top portion), to see if it helps with the grip and also to remove some of the stippling from the first go around that wasn't too deep, so I can etch it out better and finish the stippling in a better way.
Once again Kilo has been a big help.
Edit: Pics added for the purpose of illustration, this is not meant to be a thread hijack, Kilo if it's off base let me know and I will remove them. I figure all of us doing this with your inspiration could just post in here versus having multiple threads going on the same thing.
These pics were after tearing into it again today:
It looks great. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. If you have a dremel, the polishing wheel does a great job of smoothing out the plastic. I also have a butane soldering iron/torch that puts a great finish on the sanded poly.
Like you, I don't want to hijack, so hopefully this is cool. I'm a hard-core DIY guy, but was ready to send mine out to CBC or Boresight. Threads like this (and my wife calling me a bitch for even thinking about it) are motivating. So, thanks to all.
Fire_Medic
09-26-12, 15:09
Atchcraft- Tried the different paper, and wet sanding, and polish wheel on low, and even Mothers with a rag by hand, nothing did the trick, lol.
Oh well, now I have an excuses to get it Cerakoted, or try that myself too.
Here's how it sits after working on it today, a few minor details left to sand down but I think the lines are much cleaner looking now. After re-working the trigger guard, feels 100 times better in the hand.
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/20120926_150058.jpg
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/20120926_145831.jpg
okay i will play..
SKULL'S stippling evolution..
First texturing job = disaster..:fie:
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4076/4754350114_a80ee58f04_b.jpg
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4140/4753700113_ef72b7326f_b.jpg
i have to re- do this gun.. what can i say.. i got carried away..:D
2nd evolution..
more control and much better outcome..
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4140/4858707229_5abb736678_b.jpg
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4078/4864782897_48d90c4956_b.jpg
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/4893678667_50cdf344a0_b.jpg
of course i'm also practicing with some other polymer accessories
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5255/5475139791_40dc746995_b.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5123/5245972136_bbbe9deb1c_b.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5132/5480710019_67d04a4508_b.jpg
Re-do of the my disaster Glock23.. much better but the straight line takes the cake.. :suicide:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5017/5507878789_9e092c864a_b.jpg
more functional but aesthetically ugly..:D
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2477/5806675845_59b1783b65_b.jpg
Final Evolution: sort of.. :D
Stock GLOCK19C
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/6951767170_05efe1979f_b.jpg
Texturing/grip reduction... not as clean as boresight but it's functional and very much a happy camper after..:dirol:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8146/7102198933_9ab68085b1_b.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7312195820_1555a4e302_b.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7744427508_3da96b7b9a_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8316/7984340932_b63d898a2f_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8458/7984343072_d0d6c48409_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8318/8022079590_8dc6e618c5_b.jpg
Slight update with G17.
Haven't done a full blown reduction yet, but just using the candle to slightly bring down the hump. Went ahead and did more coverage with the 360 stipple.
http://imageshack.us/a/img411/1599/dsc04592z.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img69/1060/21503296.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img253/7321/35165672.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img16/6910/v2a1.jpg
Fire_Medic
10-01-12, 22:35
Looks great brother, the heat method is much less messy and a lot easier huh.........:D
LowSpeed_HighDrag
10-02-12, 00:43
Broke out the Dremel 4000 tonight, hit all three Glocks. Happy with the trigger guard work I did on all of them, but I made some uglyness on the 26 that I wish I could take back. Meh, who cares, the 26 was my stash gun anyways.
4DAIVI PAI2K5
10-02-12, 06:18
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8318/8022079590_8dc6e618c5_b.jpg
What holster you running there?
piesandcheese
10-02-12, 12:17
I just recently did a grip reduction on my Kahr CM9.
I used marine epoxy to fill the backstrap cavity and then removed the hump with a sanding dremel. I'm currently waiting on the mail to bring me a sample of truck bed liner to coat the treated area.
I'll post pics soon. So far I'm really happy with how it feels in my hand.
Fire_Medic
10-02-12, 15:53
Got my GFA all fixed up, and got it out to the range today, I love the way this gun points and shoots now:
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/20121002_124922.jpg
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k366/ffgabe/Toys/20121002_125007.jpg
Dakota Glock Guy
11-06-12, 16:53
It looks great. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. If you have a dremel, the polishing wheel does a great job of smoothing out the plastic. I also have a butane soldering iron/torch that puts a great finish on the sanded poly.
Atchcraft,
Are you using anything on the felt dremel wheel, like Mother's mag or Flitz?
Also, when you use the torch, is the heat smoothing it out, or are you using the felt wheel *while* the frame is hot???
Thanks again for all the awesome info here. This thread is AWESOME!!!!:dance3:
Atchcraft,
Are you using anything on the felt dremel wheel, like Mother's mag or Flitz?
Also, when you use the torch, is the heat smoothing it out, or are you using the felt wheel *while* the frame is hot???
Thanks again for all the awesome info here. This thread is AWESOME!!!!:dance3:
I did use a little of the red rouge on the wheel. It wasn't perfect, but it took most of the sanding marks out.
As for the "tourch" keep in mind that it is a small, BerzOmatic, butane soldering iron. Without the tip, is can be used as a heat gun for heat shrink, etc.. It's very small, concentrated. Just gently pass it over the area and it creates more of a factory texture. That's it, just the heat with no wheel. Kind of like making Creme brûlée!
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1886/g17c.jpg
Although it doesn't look like much has changed, there's been more of a reduction before.
I actually cut a slit on the bottom of the hump (from the very bottom), then proceeded to heat reduce the hump. I then sutured/stitched/reconnected the two halves with the soldering iron thoroughly. This part is a little tricky, but when done correctly, it's pretty strong and rigid. I did this because it allows for a greater reduction. For added insurance, I bedded the underside of the hump (inside of the frame, but did not fill in the cavity in the frame) with some JB Weld.
I also did an undercut of the trigger guard. The reason it's segmented like that (as opposed to thinning it all across) is that I won't lose any retention with my Raven Vanguard 1 and Vanguard 2 holsters.
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8844/triggerguardundercut.jpg
Out of my 3 glocks, I find this 17 starting to be my favorite.....
Although my 19 is still my primary EDC...this is being carried just as much lately.
Wow, some great info in this thread! I've been thinking of maybe doing some work on my Glock frame. I've got to shoot it a lot more before I figure out what, if anything I want to do.
4DAIVI PAI2K5
11-12-12, 20:20
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1886/g17c.jpg
Although it doesn't look like much has changed, there's been more of a reduction before.
I actually cut a slit on the bottom of the hump (from the very bottom), then proceeded to heat reduce the hump. I then sutured/stitched/reconnected the two halves with the soldering iron thoroughly. This part is a little tricky, but when done correctly, it's pretty strong and rigid. I did this because it allows for a greater reduction. For added insurance, I bedded the underside of the hump (inside of the frame, but did not fill in the cavity in the frame) with some JB Weld.
I also did an undercut of the trigger guard. The reason it's segmented like that (as opposed to thinning it all across) is that I won't lose any retention with my Raven Vanguard 1 and Vanguard 2 holsters.
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8844/triggerguardundercut.jpg
Out of my 3 glocks, I find this 17 starting to be my favorite.....
Although my 19 is still my primary EDC...this is being carried just as much lately.
Can we get more pics of the grip
My latest Glock project.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NDdDGTiMgpM/UKKiMfDIEeI/AAAAAAAAAhk/UA3jY8jJSaA/s1600/G22chop.jpg
RagweedZulu
11-13-12, 17:41
My latest Glock project.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NDdDGTiMgpM/UKKiMfDIEeI/AAAAAAAAAhk/UA3jY8jJSaA/s1600/G22chop.jpg
SWEET BABY JESUS! WHAT IS THAT THING? I've seen prettier shovels!!!:no:
I can take a picture when I get back from Texas tomorrow.
Ever make it back from Texas? :p
SWEET BABY JESUS! WHAT IS THAT THING? I've seen prettier shovels!!!:no:
Hahaha! Looks like an uber rare long slide G26!
Can we get more pics of the grip
I'll get updated pics up later when time permits.
My latest Glock project.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NDdDGTiMgpM/UKKiMfDIEeI/AAAAAAAAAhk/UA3jY8jJSaA/s1600/G22chop.jpg
Don't see a full sized with a chopped sub-compact grip everyday as a CHL piece....
What's your rationalization for using a full-sized as the donor over a mid-framed compact?
Very clean job, very clean.
I'll get updated pics up later when time permits.
Don't see a full sized with a chopped sub-compact grip everyday as a CHL piece....
What's your rationalization for using a full-sized as the donor over a mid-framed compact?
Very clean job, very clean.
Cheapest Glock I could find to try it on just happened to be a fullsize. It is actually a police trade in G22.
The only reason I did it was because I saw someone else do it, and was like "hey, I can do that!!" So I did.
It actually carries and shoots pretty nice though. Did a side by side comparison with an actual G27 and the chopped G22 is a little less abusive on the shooter.
Cheapest Glock I could find to try it on just happened to be a fullsize. It is actually a police trade in G22.
The only reason I did it was because I saw someone else do it, and was like "hey, I can do that!!" So I did.
It actually carries and shoots pretty nice though. Did a side by side comparison with an actual G27 and the chopped G22 is a little less abusive on the shooter.
Gotcha. The longer barrel and heavier slide does help with recoil impulse, especially when shooting .40. Great work though.
Dakota Glock Guy
11-23-12, 23:59
@Atchcraft & Fire Medic,
When you say you used a BBQ starter, are you talking about something like this:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/bmikel4/s7_550299_631_01.jpg
Also, I'm guessing you just put the grip in the front part of the hoop, right?
I mean you didn't actually *touch* the grip to the starter, do you?
Thanks again!
@Atchcraft & Fire Medic,
When you say you used a BBQ starter, are you talking about something like this:
Whoa! Oh gosh no! I meant a BBQ lighter... Like this:
14252
It's a nice, slow flame to heat the blackstrap.
Few questions for those who have been brave enough.
I've read almost all of this thread and am left with some questions. I say "almost" because its a possiablity I missed it somewhere.
I'd really like to reduce the grip on my gen3 19 to acces the mag release without breaking my grip as well as increase my traction on the grip.
So here are the questions.
1. Why remove the finger groves? I honestly don't mind them but doubt I'd ever miss them, I could see stippling them making in between my fingers raw without increasing grip. Id also like to open up the area by the mag relase and undercut the trigger guard. What tools other than a dremal are you guys using? I dont trust myself with a dremal. Thoughts?
2. I'd like to reduce the hump. The heat method seems to not leave you the ability to uniformly stipple the back, and the epoxy method leaves me thinking you can't stipple epoxy. So do you leave some plastic there to dot on? How does that remove the hump if your leaving the material?
3. Do you notice a weight change from the epoxy?
4. Does custom grip work void the warranty on the gun?
5. For concealed carry, how does that feel after a long warm day on your side? I can't imagine good. I've done a lot of stippling on my rifle, I figure with light grit sand paper you can smooth out the sides just a bit. Does it snag clothing any more than the stock grip?
6. Lastly does anyone know of any heat method tutorials? I can't seem to find any.
Thank you.
Dakota Glock Guy
11-26-12, 09:41
Whoa! Oh gosh no! I meant a BBQ lighter... Like this:
14252
It's a nice, slow flame to heat the blackstrap.
LOL... I knew there must have been some miscommunication in there! Glad you chimed in before I turned a frame into a puddle of plastic and set my house on fire! :haha:
Few questions for those who have been brave enough.
I've read almost all of this thread and am left with some questions. I say "almost" because its a possiablity I missed it somewhere.
I'd really like to reduce the grip on my gen3 19 to acces the mag release without breaking my grip as well as increase my traction on the grip.
So here are the questions.
1. Why remove the finger groves? I honestly don't mind them but doubt I'd ever miss them, I could see stippling them making in between my fingers raw without increasing grip. Id also like to open up the area by the mag relase and undercut the trigger guard. What tools other than a dremal are you guys using? I dont trust myself with a dremal. Thoughts?
The grooves don't line up for me. Removing it also allows me to get a higher grip on the frame.
2. I'd like to reduce the hump. The heat method seems to not leave you the ability to uniformly stipple the back, and the epoxy method leaves me thinking you can't stipple epoxy. So do you leave some plastic there to dot on? How does that remove the hump if your leaving the material?
When I started this thread, I used the epoxy method. The last reduction I did on another Glock, I used the heat. With the heat method, I still slightly dremel the back strap after the reduction to make it uniform/thinner. The key is not to go too much (thinning), or you'll end up needing to use epoxy to fill in the cavity.
3. Do you notice a weight change from the epoxy?
Nope, not really. Same for balance of the gun.
4. Does custom grip work void the warranty on the gun?
Yep.
5. For concealed carry, how does that feel after a long warm day on your side? I can't imagine good. I've done a lot of stippling on my rifle, I figure with light grit sand paper you can smooth out the sides just a bit. Does it snag clothing any more than the stock grip?
It's all in the texture. My textures are pretty fine, so it doesn't cause snagging or rubbing my skin raw.
6. Lastly does anyone know of any heat method tutorials? I can't seem to find any.
There's a youtube tutorial of a guy doing it on a G23 I think? It gives a minimal reduction.
Thank you.
Responses in red, hope it helped.
Responses in red, hope it helped.
Thanks man.
I think I'm going to have to do a lot more reading up before I void my warranty. I won't be able to kick myself hard enough if I **** it up.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee239/rob1bike/IMG_20121126_102150.jpgIts easy. Used a candle to reduce the hump. Its my EDC, gets beat on. Its a tool.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee239/rob1bike/IMG_20121126_102220.jpg
Thought adding the heart on the mag was a special touch, for the ladies you know.
Here's my .02
Few questions for those who have been brave enough.
I've read almost all of this thread and am left with some questions. I say "almost" because its a possiablity I missed it somewhere.
1. Why remove the finger groves? I honestly don't mind them but doubt I'd ever miss them, I could see stippling them making in between my fingers raw without increasing grip. Id also like to open up the area by the mag relase and undercut the trigger guard. What tools other than a dremal are you guys using? I dont trust myself with a dremal. Thoughts?
I reduced my grooves, but left them in place. I actually used the little "spatula" tip on the burner to smash the existing texture into the frame. My thought was to mold as much of the plastic where i wanted it, before I sanded it, not to thin the front strap too much. it worked great.
2. I'd like to reduce the hump. The heat method seems to not leave you the ability to uniformly stipple the back, and the epoxy method leaves me thinking you can't stipple epoxy. So do you leave some plastic there to dot on? How does that remove the hump if your leaving the material?
I found that, with the heat method, I had to press and hold the frame against a flat surface for about 30 seconds after heating, then I stuck it in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes. Otherwise the hump would spring back and not give as much reduction as I was looking for. Again, I used the "spatula" method to mash the existing texture before sanding. The backstrap still had plenty of wall thickness to texture. It actually filled in the lanyard hole enough to texture, but I redrilled it.
5. For concealed carry, how does that feel after a long warm day on your side? I can't imagine good. I've done a lot of stippling on my rifle, I figure with light grit sand paper you can smooth out the sides just a bit. Does it snag clothing any more than the stock grip?
Mine looks a bit more aggressive than Kilo's, but I only notice it when I'm driving. Still, not bad at all.
6. Lastly does anyone know of any heat method tutorials? I can't seem to find any.
I never found any.
I really should have taken more pictures. I'm getting a new G17 first of the year, maybe then. Another note; I ran some tape around an old mag and kept it in the frame just to be on the safe side.
TrenchArtisan
11-28-12, 14:16
Another note; I ran some tape around an old mag and kept it in the frame just to be on the safe side.
Not to pick nits, but just out of curiosity, what kind of tape did would you recommend?
Dakota Glock Guy
11-28-12, 14:49
I found that, with the heat method, I had to press and hold the frame against a flat surface for about 30 seconds after heating, then I stuck it in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes. Otherwise the hump would spring back and not give as much reduction as I was looking for.
When you do the heat method like this, is it just a one and done thing, or do you need to heat and shape it several times if you hold it in place like you said?
This is a quick guide for those thinking of doing a grip reduction on a Glock.
I stippled my G19 last November, but after almost a year of shooting, I decided to go ahead and do a more aggressive grip reduction. The logic is to remove the rear bulb on the back of the grip to give it a more 1911-like straighter grip angle. The stock grip angle tends to make the gun point a little higher when gripping.
The guys at Boresight Solutions, Robar, and Bowie Tactical provides both grip reduction and stippling services. They're really good at what they do though, but I'm impatient and I want the satisfaction of doing it myself (and saving the money to buy ammo).
Default/stock:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6018/glock19default.jpg
State of my G19 prior to greater reduction.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4312/preside1.jpg
Whenever a more aggressive grip reduction is done, the cavity in the back of the frame has to be filled in. I used mariner epoxy and syringe.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5941/55590104.jpg
The cavity where the trigger housing area sits in needs to be blocked. If epoxy gets in there, you're F'd before you even really start.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/7815/95508479.jpg
I also taped off the magwell area using duct tape. The halfmoon relief cut on the rear wall of the magwell was filled with a quarter to prevent epoxy from spilling over.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2676/34495383.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/350/62731966.jpg
I waited for about 4 hours for the epoxy to fully set/dry before I pulled out the dremel to start grinding the back.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2207/88806617.jpg
Also started forming the inside bevel/funnel. Not really necessary, but I put it in to help aid reloads if I inserted the magazine at an off angle.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5842/25325527.jpg
More grinding/sanding.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2972/53546205.jpg
Test fit to grip to see if the angle was good enough or not.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8339/93080088.jpg
Started re-stippling process.
Gotta love the pigs...being politically incorrect to the radical hajs out there.
Is that little icon on the backstrap suppose to be a cup with a straw coming out or shiro in kanji?
Not to pick nits, but just out of curiosity, what kind of tape did would you recommend?
I just used blue painters tape that I had at arms reach. Nothing gets that hot, it was just for piece of mind.
This is a quick guide for those thinking of doing a grip reduction on a Glock.
I stippled my G19 last November, but after almost a year of shooting, I decided to go ahead and do a more aggressive grip reduction. The logic is to remove the rear bulb on the back of the grip to give it a more 1911-like straighter grip angle. The stock grip angle tends to make the gun point a little higher when gripping.
The guys at Boresight Solutions, Robar, and Bowie Tactical provides both grip reduction and stippling services. They're really good at what they do though, but I'm impatient and I want the satisfaction of doing it myself (and saving the money to buy ammo).
Default/stock:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6018/glock19default.jpg
State of my G19 prior to greater reduction.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4312/preside1.jpg
Whenever a more aggressive grip reduction is done, the cavity in the back of the frame has to be filled in. I used mariner epoxy and syringe.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5941/55590104.jpg
The cavity where the trigger housing area sits in needs to be blocked. If epoxy gets in there, you're F'd before you even really start.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/7815/95508479.jpg
I also taped off the magwell area using duct tape. The halfmoon relief cut on the rear wall of the magwell was filled with a quarter to prevent epoxy from spilling over.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2676/34495383.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/350/62731966.jpg
I waited for about 4 hours for the epoxy to fully set/dry before I pulled out the dremel to start grinding the back.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2207/88806617.jpg
Also started forming the inside bevel/funnel. Not really necessary, but I put it in to help aid reloads if I inserted the magazine at an off angle.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5842/25325527.jpg
More grinding/sanding.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2972/53546205.jpg
Test fit to grip to see if the angle was good enough or not.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8339/93080088.jpg
Started re-stippling process.
Gotta love the pigs...being politically incorrect to the radical hajs out there.
What did you use to color it?
7.62WildBill
03-21-13, 21:10
You can color the epoxy mix black with graphite powder.
OP, you did a great job. That looks excellent.
Think I might give my M&P a stippling job tonight.
Wonderful work, it looks fantastic. Now if Glock would get off their asses and figure out people hate those stupid finger grooves.
Thanks.
As for the coloring, I have since used Rit Dye to dye the epoxy.
I can't believe this thread just came back from the dead...I created this thread years ago.
I'd figure I'd update the thread while I'm at it. Just took these pictures now of my G19 currently. It's been through an evolution from what it started off as in the beginning of this thread back in 2010.
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/1359/cimg3255n.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img404/5125/cimg3260.jpg
Resculpted magwell to where it's more beveled and slicker.
http://imageshack.us/a/img825/2388/cimg3257o.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/7964/cimg3258.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img402/125/cimg3259b.jpg
Observations: The texture is holding up really well, but after lots of use, there are some wear area of where the stippling was at.
The beveled magwell is still holding up well. Almost 3 years since the project started and thousands of rounds later, the marine epoxy is holding up well. No visible cracks or apparent structural failure yet.
This is still my primary carry gun, although I have moved to my G17 for most range use shooting as of this last year. I'll still train with this gun, as it still has a very different feel from the 17.
Did you re stipple the gun? In your latest photos the texture looks much less aggressive than the original photos.
Is it marine tex or loctite marine?
Did you re stipple the gun? In your latest photos the texture looks much less aggressive than the original photos.
Yes, I redid it a while back. With use/carry, it also started to smooth out in certain areas as well.
The texture isn't the most 'adhesive' to the hand like my RTF frame, but it definitely is a lot easier on the skin when carrying.
Yes, I redid it a while back. With use/carry, it also started to smooth out in certain areas as well.
The texture isn't the most 'adhesive' to the hand like my RTF frame, but it definitely is a lot easier on the skin when carrying.
It looks fantastic. I'm not a fan over overly agressive stippling for the same reasons you discribed. What type of tip did you use?
It looks fantastic. I'm not a fan over overly agressive stippling for the same reasons you discribed. What type of tip did you use?
Thanks. I used the tip of a soldering iron to do it. Press lightly, don't go in too deep.
Nicely done thanks for sharing
FortySixand2
03-24-13, 17:30
Nice job!
beefcake6681
04-01-13, 02:26
Is it possible to get rid of the hump and get it all the way flat by just using the heat/candle method?
Is it possible to get rid of the hump and get it all the way flat by just using the heat/candle method?
You can get close, but it won't be as flat as just using epoxy and grinding. I did the heat method on my 17 and reduced the hump, but I had to grind on it with a dremel afterwards to make it less pronounced.
Is it possible to get rid of the hump and get it all the way flat by just using the heat/candle method?
I's say mine look pretty flat, I do them with the heat method. Much more and you would have the ice cream cone effect seen with some reductions. That is where the bottom of the grip is less than the top and it looks and feels a bit odd.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/DSC_0471-1.jpg
TXPO
NeoNeanderthal
04-01-13, 14:21
I's say mine look pretty flat, I do them with the heat method. Much more and you would have the ice cream cone effect seen with some reductions. That is where the bottom of the grip is less than the top and it looks and feels a bit odd.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/DSC_0471-1.jpg
TXPO
Looks GREAT. Care to give a little more detail into your process?
Whatd you use to heat the grip?
How long did you apply the heat?
Whatd you use to squash the grip after heating?
Looks GREAT. Care to give a little more detail into your process?
Whatd you use to heat the grip?
How long did you apply the heat?
Whatd you use to squash the grip after heating?
Im not TexasPOF but...yeah, he does this for a living or i should say, for profit. I highly doubt he is going to disclose his methods.
A google search will yield enough results to satisfy your answers. The rest is up to the individual, ie how crafty they are and how much of an attention to detail they possess.
Looks GREAT. Care to give a little more detail into your process?
Whatd you use to heat the grip?
How long did you apply the heat?
Whatd you use to squash the grip after heating?
The general info is out there on the net, and pretty easy to find. I have to keep my little tricks a secret. What I can tell you is I spent hours upon hours working out the details to each one of your questions.
TXPO
The general info is out there on the net, and pretty easy to find. I have to keep my little tricks a secret. What I can tell you is I spent hours upon hours working out the details to each one of your questions.
TXPO
Dang, Lane! Now you're on here peddling your wares. My wallet isn't safe!! Awesome work, as usual...
My OD frame is headed your way soon...I can feel it!
Dang, Lane! Now you're on here peddling your wares. My wallet isn't safe!! Awesome work, as usual...
My OD frame is headed your way soon...I can feel it!
I need to start a frequent flier program for you..:). I have been around here for quite a while, mostly lurking and info gathering. Started seeing quite a few I know from other boards so thought I would contribute a bit. Hope all is well up there, TXPO
is it possible to stipple rhino liner stuff that is applied to frames from robar?
is it possible to stipple rhino liner stuff that is applied to frames from robar?
Rule of thumb for inserts (such as epoxy, etc) or coatings is that they cannot be stippled.
ICANHITHIMMAN
05-29-13, 11:23
Rule of thumb for inserts (such as epoxy, etc) or coatings is that they cannot be stippled.
Not sure you were referring to arglass gel from brownells as I believe it can be stippled.
Not sure you were referring to arglass gel from brownells as I believe it can be stippled.
I've never worked with acraglas....but even if it can be stippled, the consistency of the texture may still be different from the polymer frame because it's still a different material. I never reduce the frame down to the epoxy/material past the original material on the frame.
NickyDunzo
08-12-13, 21:21
Looks awesome!
That looks great bud. Most impressive.
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