View Full Version : Mid length CMMG upper and tulammo 55gr .223
Today I fired 220rds of steel case tulammo.
My CMMG barrel reads "CMMG MPC 5.56 NATO 1/7"
Half way through the ammuntion, I encountered a failure to extract. I took out the magazine and closed the bolt in order to extract the casing. The bolt would not grab the casing. Turns out the extractor tore off part of the rim. I made the weapon safe and dissasembled it, and then placed a metal rod down the barrel and banged with a hammer to knock out the casing. It was a success!
I checked the barrel for obstructions and proceeded to put together and fire the rifle. The very first round fired and failed to extract with a live round trying to come up behind it. I took the mag out and closed the bolt to grab the case head, stood the rifle up right, and hit the stock on a sand bag while pulling the charging handle, therefore, ejecting the spent casing.
At this time, a couple RSO's brought out some patches, some kind of spray (I forgot what it was called), M16 cleaning kit, and we wiped up the chamber and barrel. The patches didn't show significant fouling. But after we were done wiping the bore and chamber, I put the rifle together and fired another 80-100 rounds without a problem.
I had two FT-extracts out of 220rds of steel case russian ammo. I'm inclined to believe that they were just some out of spec rounds. But they happened one after the other, and after a bore/chamber wipe down, it was not a problem any more.
But if those two rounds were not out of spec, I would have expected that a 5.56mm NATO chrome chamber with a mid length gas system would have had no trouble cycling 223 russian low pressure steel case.
I fear that my sig line may apply to my rifle too.
Isn't the 5.56mm chamber wider in some way than a 223 chamber, in order to aid in extraction? Or did I read some BS somewhere.......
Maybe you should change sig line. Tula has not worked for me in any of my rifles.
I am almost 99% sure that CMMG is known for having tight chambers. The markings on the barrel are irrelevant. Many manufacturers do it, and many times they are FOS.
Today I fired 220rds of steel case tulammo.
My CMMG barrel reads "CMMG MPC 5.56 NATO 1/7"
Half way through the ammuntion, I encountered a failure to extract. I took out the magazine and closed the bolt in order to extract the casing. The bolt would not grab the casing. Turns out the extractor tore off part of the rim. I made the weapon safe and dissasembled it, and then placed a metal rod down the barrel and banged with a hammer to knock out the casing. It was a success!
I checked the barrel for obstructions and proceeded to put together and fire the rifle. The very first round fired and failed to extract with a live round trying to come up behind it. I took the mag out and closed the bolt to grab the case head, stood the rifle up right, and hit the stock on a sand bag while pulling the charging handle, therefore, ejecting the spent casing.
At this time, a couple RSO's brought out some patches, some kind of spray (I forgot what it was called), M16 cleaning kit, and we wiped up the chamber and barrel. The patches didn't show significant fouling. But after we were done wiping the bore and chamber, I put the rifle together and fired another 80-100 rounds without a problem.
I had two FT-extracts out of 220rds of steel case russian ammo. I'm inclined to believe that they were just some out of spec rounds. But they happened one after the other, and after a bore/chamber wipe down, it was not a problem any more.
But if those two rounds were not out of spec, I would have expected that a 5.56mm NATO chrome chamber with a mid length gas system would have had no trouble cycling 223 russian low pressure steel case.
I fear that my sig line may apply to my rifle too.
Isn't the 5.56mm chamber wider in some way than a 223 chamber, in order to aid in extraction? Or did I read some BS somewhere.......
Maybe you should change sig line. Tula has not worked for me in any of my rifles.
Or maybe all your rifles are garbage...?
Get the chamber reamed. Probably not really 5.56 chamber, or it's on the tight side. Haven't seen too many failures from steel case ammo not directly related to a tight chamber. I shoot it almost exclusively through my 5.56 and 9mm guns.
Or maybe all your rifles are garbage...?
Get the chamber reamed. Probably not really 5.56 chamber, or it's on the tight side. Haven't seen too many failures from steel case ammo not directly related to a tight chamber
Plus 1
Or maybe all your rifles are garbage...?
Get the chamber reamed. Probably not really 5.56 chamber, or it's on the tight side. Haven't seen too many failures from steel case ammo not directly related to a tight chamber. I shoot it almost exclusively through my 5.56 and 9mm guns.
Well one of them was a BCM, so if you consider BCM garbage then I guess you would be right. I don’t know how we got the point where a rifle must work with third world ammo that doesn’t rise to the standard of wolf.
Saying that all steel case ammo is the same is like saying that all AR’s are the same.
Yes the chamber could be out of spec, but the easiest thing to try would be some different ammo like wolf or silver bear and see how it works.
I’m glad your rifle works with Tula, enjoy the savings. However to say that any rifle that doesn’t is junk is like saying my "DPMS works well, so all DPMS rifles are good".
I had a CMMG upper before I knew better. It was good at popping primers, though I never had a stuck case with it. I got rid of it and haven't had a problem since.
In your particular case you can send the barrel to have the chamber reamed to make sure it actually is a 5.56 chamber, or you can get a new barrel.
Or you could just shoot the type of ammo the rifle WAS DESIGNED FOR.
Look at the case taper of 7.62x39, DESIGNED for steel case material.
Look at the extractor on an AK, DESIGNED for hard extraction.
Check your chamber.
Try an O ring on your extractor.
Get a GI chamber brush and use it often.
Accept the fact that an AR may not run 100% on steel cased ammo.
My buddy had the exact problem with Tula ammo and his CMMG. He quit using Tula in that gun and everything is fine.
I had a DPMS hat did the same thing. Now I admit I did not scrub the chamber before shooting like I should have.
Went home, scrubbed the chamber and it worked fine after that.
Now, I always break a new carbine in with full powered ammo.
I cycle it 500 times before taking it to the range.
I use BCM extractor spring upgrades.
I also generously lube the BCG in a new rifle.
All my rifles cycle steel cased ammo.
You said after you cleaned the chamber it worked fine.
I shouldn't have to scrub the chamber every 100rds for the rifle to work properly. Nor should I upgrade the extractor or anything like that. The extractor tore a peice of the rim off of one casing, sounds like the extractor is doing its job.
But I'm NOT ignoring the fact that 5.56mm/223 isn't supposed to use a steel casing.
I think more steel case rounds need to be put into my rifle for further understanding of what the problem might be. It might be tula, or all steel cased ammo, or the barrel.
I didn't say you needed to scrub it every 100 rounds. I was referring to a new weapon. Sometimes they had crud in the chamber.
JeepDriver
10-24-10, 18:14
My 20" is a CMMG, it won't eat anything steel cased. It will shoot any brassed cased ammo I feed it though. I'm not a steel cased ammo shooter so it's not that big of an issue to me.
From what I remember CMMG says the any steel cased ammo will void their warranty.
ETA: CMMG Ammounition Statement (http://www.cmmginc.com/pages/ammunition.html)
I don't agree with any company that has a statement like that.
The rifle should be able to shoot steel cased ammo and not "void the warranty"
I got my upper before June in 2009, back when the website was different. I don't remember that warning.
Polymer/lacquer coated ammo always seems to have carbon blotches on the outside surface after a while, especially with a casing that had a FTE. I think the poylmer heats up, expands, and grabs onto the carbon residue before and during detonation, making it unlikely to extract (specifically with 223).
I think I should buy some silver/golden bear ammo. Metal coatings shouldn't behave the same way as polymer. Should be good to go.
What Todd said about getting a chamber brush and using it regularly...
TBut after we were done wiping the bore and chamber, I put the rifle together and fired another 80-100 rounds without a problem...
Do you think it's coincidence that you cleaned the chamber and then the gun stopped failing?
Bimmer
I have rifles that went thousands of rounds without a malfunction (DD) using Wolf and Brown/Silver Bear steel case ammunition...they wouldn't cycle Tula. They would extract it, but not cycle it. I'm not upset - I can get Wolf cheaper anyway.
I have rifles that went thousands of rounds without a malfunction (DD) using Wolf and Brown/Silver Bear steel case ammunition...they wouldn't cycle Tula. They would extract it, but not cycle it. I'm not upset - I can get Wolf cheaper anyway.
Note to self: add Tula to the list of ammo not to shoot.
D. Christopher
10-25-10, 00:32
Have your chamber checked by a pro, I assure you that's where your problem lies. What's stamped on the barrel is meaningless unless it comes from a select group of manufacturers. CMMG isn't in that group. Good luck.
isn't tulammo just rebranded wolf?
I don't agree with any company that has a statement like that.
The rifle should be able to shoot steel cased ammo and not "void the warranty"
Most manufacturers other than Colt, DD, and the like, have either a warning not to use it or an exclusion in their warranty for use of steel cased ammo.
Let me chime in real quick. I was doing a shooting course this weekend and coincidentally one of the guys had a Cav Arms lower with CMMG upper that was having issues (popped primers and failures to extract).
Well low and behold I used Ned's 5.56 chamber checker and guess what????? Wait for it- the chamber was TIGHT.
I fired around 500 rounds of Hornady TAP 55gr steel case. Guess what? No malfunctions at all in my SBR with suppressor in place. This a CLUE.
None of my 5.56 rifles cycle Tula ammo. 2 DD barrels and one Colt...
Let me chime in real quick. I was doing a shooting course this weekend and coincidentally one of the guys had a Cav Arms lower with CMMG upper that was having issues (popped primers and failures to extract).
Well low and behold I used Ned's 5.56 chamber checker and guess what????? Wait for it- the chamber was TIGHT.
I fired around 500 rounds of Hornady TAP 55gr steel case. Guess what? No malfunctions at all in my SBR with suppressor in place. This a CLUE.
damn it dude......
I guessed I listened to the wrong people last year. People were praising them and I thought they're good to go.
Oh well, next time I'll make a better decision. But before i do that, I will continue to shoot various steel cased rounds through it to isolate certain brands or problems such as not cleaning the chamber, etc.
So far the rifle has 320rds of ammo through it. 100rds of federal 55gr and 220rds of tulammo.
The steel case Hornady TAP seems to be working for pretty much everyone- at least that I have seen. I think it's running about 260.00 for 1000 rounds. Buy a small quantity and see how it works for you.
damn it dude......
I guessed I listened to the wrong people last year. People were praising them and I thought they're good to go.
Oh well, next time I'll make a better decision. But before i do that, I will continue to shoot various steel cased rounds through it to isolate certain brands or problems such as not cleaning the chamber, etc.
So far the rifle has 320rds of ammo through it. 100rds of federal 55gr and 220rds of tulammo.
I really think this is a chamber issue and can vary from gun to gun regardless of caliber. My BCM has no issue with steel cased ammo to include Tula and Wolf. I took a class a couple weeks back where I purposely ran a mix of brass and steel cased ammo over the course of 800+ rounds and experienced no issues.
You mentioned that your gun only has 320 total rounds through it.....try shooting it some more with good ammo and see if that helps with the steel cased stuff.
I'm also a believer in having a fighting gun that will run on whatever you feed it....never know when the cheap stuff is all that you'll have.
I am almost 99% sure that CMMG is known for having tight chambers. The markings on the barrel are irrelevant. Many manufacturers do it, and many times they are FOS.
my BM is marked 5.56 but I doubt it is. Never checked but I have had two FTE with Wolf. Two in one magazine. The last one was very hard to get out and I had to morter it to get it out. I did not have anything to clean the chamber, so I continued to shoot and it fed about 50 more rounds just fine that day.
I have since upgraded the extractor with the BCM kit and have had no problems in about 300 rounds and no cleaning.
I shouldn't have to scrub the chamber every 100rds for the rifle to work properly. Nor should I upgrade the extractor or anything like that. The extractor tore a peice of the rim off of one casing, sounds like the extractor is doing its job.
But I'm NOT ignoring the fact that 5.56mm/223 isn't supposed to use a steel casing.
I think more steel case rounds need to be put into my rifle for further understanding of what the problem might be. It might be tula, or all steel cased ammo, or the barrel.
If you don't want to have to scrub the chamber and so on you can do one of two things. Either don't use steel case ammo which does not expand as well as brass and therefore fouls the chamber more, or buy/use a rifle that has a true 5.56 chamber like your BCM.
:laugh:
or buy/use a rifle that has a true 5.56 chamber like your BCM.
I don't have a BCM upper.
But I might have to put that on a list of important things to get.:cool:
broken shell extractor would come in handy, I keep one in my miad:cool:
broken shell extractor would come in handy, I keep one in my miad:cool:
I never did have a case head separation. Just a piece of the rim broken off.
I'm not sure its a chamber issue soley to nin 5.56 chambers. I say that because I know a lot of people say that SS barrels don't like steel cased ammo, however I have SS barreled/Wylde chambered Barnes Prescision upper that has no issue with cheapo steel ammo. Same holds true for all the people I know with Barnes SS barreled AR's. At the same time there are plenty of people with 5.56 chambered rifles who have issues. So that leaves me to believe there's more to the issue.
I'm not sure its a chamber issue soley to nin 5.56 chambers. I say that because I know a lot of people say that SS barrels don't like steel cased ammo, however I have SS barreled/Wylde chambered Barnes Prescision upper that has no issue with cheapo steel ammo. Same holds true for all the people I know with Barnes SS barreled AR's. At the same time there are plenty of people with 5.56 chambered rifles who have issues. So that leaves me to believe there's more to the issue.
Might be bad rounds, or the polymer coating.
Or it might be................DIRECT IMPINGEMENT!!! OMG, I need a piston! :eek:
naw just playin':laugh:
GermanSynergy
10-25-10, 22:47
I would suggest binning the upper and getting a BCM. Mine eats Wolf/Tula all day, and I just keep it well lubed and clean accordingly.
Today I fired 220rds of steel case tulammo.
My CMMG barrel reads "CMMG MPC 5.56 NATO 1/7"
Half way through the ammuntion, I encountered a failure to extract. I took out the magazine and closed the bolt in order to extract the casing. The bolt would not grab the casing. Turns out the extractor tore off part of the rim. I made the weapon safe and dissasembled it, and then placed a metal rod down the barrel and banged with a hammer to knock out the casing. It was a success!
I checked the barrel for obstructions and proceeded to put together and fire the rifle. The very first round fired and failed to extract with a live round trying to come up behind it. I took the mag out and closed the bolt to grab the case head, stood the rifle up right, and hit the stock on a sand bag while pulling the charging handle, therefore, ejecting the spent casing.
At this time, a couple RSO's brought out some patches, some kind of spray (I forgot what it was called), M16 cleaning kit, and we wiped up the chamber and barrel. The patches didn't show significant fouling. But after we were done wiping the bore and chamber, I put the rifle together and fired another 80-100 rounds without a problem.
I had two FT-extracts out of 220rds of steel case russian ammo. I'm inclined to believe that they were just some out of spec rounds. But they happened one after the other, and after a bore/chamber wipe down, it was not a problem any more.
But if those two rounds were not out of spec, I would have expected that a 5.56mm NATO chrome chamber with a mid length gas system would have had no trouble cycling 223 russian low pressure steel case.
I fear that my sig line may apply to my rifle too.
Isn't the 5.56mm chamber wider in some way than a 223 chamber, in order to aid in extraction? Or did I read some BS somewhere.......
If you want to buy foreign ammo may i suggest Privi Partsian. I have used it for quite some time and never a FTF?FTE..
UPDATE...
I just came back from the range after putting 240rds of tulammo through it again.
Had multiple stovepipes and failure to extracts. I think I had a total of about 10 stoppages.
Most shell casings didn't have any evidence of carbon build up on the outside surface.
I don't think this is an ammo problem. I think the chamber is too tight for a "5.56mm", as CMMG claimed it is. As a result, steel cased 223 isn't working out the way I thought it would, given the nature of steel cased cartridges.
I'm thinking maybe upgrading the extractor spring may increase reliability. But I fear that may just lead to the extractor ripping off the case head rim.
Also, something most here already know, the damn ar15 reciever is way to constricted. Some of the rounds/casings from the doubles feeds and stovepipes were ridiculous to clear. They're getting lodged in the charging handle slot and the live rounds were getting stuck between the teeth of the chamber extension.
I'm not ready to give up on my particular AR15 yet. I really want to see what happens with silver/golden bear steel cased ammo.
I am confused. Did CMMG tell you that their chambers are tight (in other words not 5.56)? If so, then that's the problem.
Humor me and go buy some Hornady 55gr. steel case and tell me what happens.
UPDATE...
I just came back from the range after putting 240rds of tulammo through it again.
Had multiple stovepipes and failure to extracts. I think I had a total of about 10 stoppages.
Most shell casings didn't have any evidence of carbon build up on the outside surface.
I don't think this is an ammo problem. I think the chamber is too tight for a "5.56mm", as CMMG claimed it is. As a result, steel cased 223 isn't working out the way I thought it would, given the nature of steel cased cartridges.
I'm thinking maybe upgrading the extractor spring may increase reliability. But I fear that may just lead to the extractor ripping off the case head rim.
Also, something most here already know, the damn ar15 reciever is way to constricted. Some of the rounds/casings from the doubles feeds and stovepipes were ridiculous to clear. They're getting lodged in the charging handle slot and the live rounds were getting stuck between the teeth of the chamber extension.
I'm not ready to give up on my particular AR15 yet. I really want to see what happens with silver/golden bear steel cased ammo.
I am confused. Did CMMG tell you that their chambers are tight (in other words not 5.56)? If so, then that's the problem.
Humor me and go buy some Hornady 55gr. steel case and tell me what happens.
I didn't call CMMG. I read what you said about CMMG's chambers having a tendency to be tight, possibly being FOS with "5.56mm" marked on the barrel, and just accepted it as possibly applying to my rifle too.
The only thing sure, is that the first 100rds I fired through this rifle were federal 55gr brass cased ammo, and had no issues.
If brass works but steel doesn't, when it's supposed to because of a "5.56mm NATO" chamber, then the chamber may not be really 5.56mm and instead may be tighter. This is what I'm reading so far.
I'll try to get my hands on many different steel cased rounds, including hornady, and see what works and what doesn't.
Ok gotcha. If I recall we have seem a feew threads concerning CMMG and their chambers. The one I inspected last week and tested with Ned Christiansens chamber reamer as not 5.56 as the gage stuck. He also had issues with steel case.
The Hornady steel case has worked in my BCM, DD, piston gun and my Noveske.
I didn't call CMMG. I read what you said about CMMG's chambers having a tendency to be tight, possibly being FOS with "5.56mm" marked on the barrel, and just accepted it as possibly applying to my rifle too.
The only thing sure, is that the first 100rds I fired through this rifle were federal 55gr brass cased ammo, and had no issues.
If brass works but steel doesn't, when it's supposed to because of a "5.56mm NATO" chamber, then the chamber may not be really 5.56mm and instead may be tighter. This is what I'm reading so far.
I'll try to get my hands on many different steel cased rounds, including hornady, and see what works and what doesn't.
I fired around 500 rounds of Hornady TAP 55gr steel case. Guess what? No malfunctions at all in my SBR with suppressor in place.
The Hornady steel case has worked in my BCM, DD, piston gun and my Noveske
Do any of your rifles (especially your sbr suppressed rifle) have upgraded extractor springs, o-rings, etc?
Every AR I have uses a standard milspec bolt and a Colt factory extractor spring and insert. I think I had an O-ring on one of them and then i removed it.
Have you not been able to resolve this issue yet?
Do any of your rifles (especially your sbr suppressed rifle) have upgraded extractor springs, o-rings, etc?
Have you not been able to resolve this issue yet?
I haven't went out shooting in a while but here's the situation now.
I went to home depot and bought a ten-pack of o-rings. #60 1/8 ID 1/4 OD x 1/16
I have the regular extractor spring with the blue insert. I slipped one o-ring over it and reassmbled the extractor. It is freakin STIFF. Holy crap I don't understand how it could not cause feeding and ejection issues. The claw enroaches into the bolt face more than without the o-ring and it barely moves when I use my finger nail to push the claw back, though just enough to possibly allow the case head to seat properly. (I wouldn't know for sure until I get to the range because I don't cycle live rounds in the house).
I bought some more tulammo because it's the problem ammo that I want to use as a control.
I expect broken rims, but we'll see next range session.
I just came back from the range.
I shot 240rds of Tula steel cased 223 with the O-ring installed.
The results were dramatically different than last time.
1 failure to fire
1 failure to feed
1 failure to extract (broken rim)
1 failure to extract (stuck casing)
This range session was all about inducing FTE's. I would do certain things to try and create an FTE with the carbon build up in the chamber.
Such things like....
1. fire off rounds, then hold bolt back and let chamber cool, reload and repeat firing.
2. fire off rounds, close the bolt on empty chamber, wait a bit then reload and fire.
3. fire off rounds, leave a live round in the chamber and let the rifle cool down, then commence firing.
Mind you, it was very cold today and thought these actions would do something. .:laugh: I know for sure that #3 would cause the first shot to make the BCG cycle sluggishly, and that's exactly what was happening any time I did that.
Failure to Fire:
Ammo related, not the rifles fault. Primer was hit and the round didn't fire so I threw it away.
Failure to feed:
Apparently, the BCG didn't reciprocate far enough. It ejected the casing normally but closed on an empty chamber. Not the mags fault. This FTF was most likely the result of action #3. I only load 5rds at a time to keep track and when I fired the first round from that magazine, taking the mag out revealed 4 rounds left with nothing in the chamber after i heard the click.
FTE Broken rim:
I knew this was going to happen. If the casing isn't coming out, the rim will break. I knocked it out with a hammer and rod. This FTE happened with #3 when I left the live round in the chamber and let the rifle sit for a bit. Probably an out of spec casing as other attempts at #3 would just cause sluggish cycling.
FTE stuck casing:
This was not your usual stuck casing. It HAD to have been an out-of-spec casing. The BCG did NOT reciprocate. Before when I didn't have an o-ring, the extractor would slip off the rim and try to feed another round. In this case with the o-ring, the extractor didn't let go at all, but it didn't break the rim either.
It was a BITCH trying to get it out of the chamber. I was pogo sticking the hell out of the rifle and it took a while to get it out. It had to have been 100% a ****ed up cartridge. This FTE happened while shooting normally and was not purposely induced.
Also, the rifle was no longer stovepiping with the o-ring installed. The rifle performed MUCH freakin' better. Aside from the failure to feed and fire, the rifle only had 2 FTE's within 240rds of steel cased ammo and due to the nature of the FTE's, I attribute them to possibly out of spec casings. I was worried about FTE's more than anything else.
action #1 did not produce issues.
action #2 was inconclusive.
action #3 cause sluggish cycling on first shot a considerable amount of times.
I trust this rifle to run reliably with quality, defensive 223 SAAMI brass cased ammo after witnessing the result with steel cases and o-rings. But I'd really have to put some through this rifle to find the truth.
Grumpy MSG
12-04-10, 16:24
Or maybe all your rifles are garbage...?
Get the chamber reamed. Probably not really 5.56 chamber, or it's on the tight side. Haven't seen too many failures from steel case ammo not directly related to a tight chamber. I shoot it almost exclusively through my 5.56 and 9mm guns.
Let's see reaming a chrome lined chamber will do what?:sarcastic: Remove the chrome lining and probably a little steel too. Now you have a chamber that will be more open to corrosion. throw in the insistance on using Russian steel cased ammo, the older of which may be corrosive. Is there a penny wise, pound foolish moment in the future?
The manufacturer recommends sticking to brass cased ammo. Instead of insisting on using the Russian stuff, why not learn how to reload to keep your costs lower. Not only that you can find the sweet loads that your particular rifle likes and improve your accuracy.
I have two rifles with CMMG barrels (14.7" and 20") and bolts in them, both have shot well using 55 grain Winchester USA brand, Federal, and Remington rounds as well as some Lake City M855. The 20" has also had some 77 grain Black Hills put through it, it really loves that round but at today's prices and the limited availabilty of it, I just don't get to shoot much of it. I am however working on developing a reload that will come close to matching it.
I guess what you have is probably two courses of action:
1. Shoot higher quality ammo
2. Dump the rifle or barrel and buy one of the other manufacturer's rifle/ barrels
Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
Note to self: add Tula to the list of ammo not to shoot.
I shoot only brass cased M193. Prvi Partizan is $250/k. Steel-cased garbage is for Commie-bloc junk. If you want to use subpar, steel-cased ammo get an SKS.
I shoot only brass cased M193. Prvi Partizan is $250/k. Steel-cased garbage is for Commie-bloc junk. If you want to use subpar, steel-cased ammo get an SKS.
Guess it"ll suck if you're ever in a situation where all you can get your hands on is cheap Ruskie ammo.......:sarcastic: Never discount Murphy's Law because it is real.
BufordTJustice
12-04-10, 17:13
Let's see reaming a chrome lined chamber will do what?:sarcastic: Remove the chrome lining and probably a little steel too. Now you have a chamber that will be more open to corrosion. throw in the insistance on using Russian steel cased ammo, the older of which may be corrosive. Is there a penny wise, pound foolish moment in the future?
The manufacturer recommends sticking to brass cased ammo. Instead of insisting on using the Russian stuff, why not learn how to reload to keep your costs lower. Not only that you can find the sweet loads that your particular rifle likes and improve your accuracy.
Reaming a chamber brings it into a specification that the manufacturer ALREADY CLAIMS IT MEETS. That's false advertising. How come 5.56 chambers from Colt, DD, BCM, Larue, KAC, etc actually are proper spec? CMMG needs to alter their advertising.
Chrome lining in the throat doesn't last but a thousand rounds or so anyway. Corrosion in the chamber has not been an issue on several non-CL'd AR15's I've seen with thousands of rounds of russian crap through them (Bushmasters).
I have never seen corrosive .223 sold in the US. The only corrosive ammo I've seen for sale recently in any caliber is the stuff sold in tins in 7.63x39mm or 5.45x39mm.
The manufacturer recommends sticking to brass cased ammo because they KNOW they are out of spec. NO other quality manufacturer has this requirement. This should tell you something. If sensibilities are offended, I apologize. Facts is facts.
As for reloading, not everybody has the $$$ to outlay for an entire quality reloading setup up front. Russian stuff is cheap, and it works in quality rifles. My BCM eats a steady diet of it....so do MANY others. If the OP lives in an apartment, reloading becomes even less feasible.
All that to say, $30 for a chamber reaming is the least expensive option that will still be effective. This is a no brainer.
His rifle will be no less tough than the thousands of other rifles whose chambers have been reamed.
Guess it"ll suck if you're ever in a situation where all you can get your hands on is cheap Ruskie ammo.......:sarcastic: Never discount Murphy's Law because it is real.
Maybe...but I have 10k rounds of boxer primed, brass-cased M193 on hand. If I had to I will.....with your logic I should have an SKS on hand just in case my AR disappears. No....I just have several zeroed ARs.
Why would I want to shoot crap ammo???? I understand you don't need fine quality ammo for shooting at 50-100M from an AR.
The extraction system is designed for brass-cased ammunition. You rarely, if ever, see steel cased ammunition produced domestically for American designed service rifles.
I won't own any rifle that won't shoot and cycle Wolf.
My 16" CMMG upper ,cut down to 14.5", with BCM extractor upgrade eats Wolf and Brown Bear. The only FTF I have ever experienced was a sideways primer in a Wolf round (so ammo related).
I just put 200rds of of steel cased, polymer coated tula through it again.
No failure to extracts.
but I did get 4 failure to feeds.
You know how? By letting a live round sit in a hot chamber for a bit and letting cool down before firing. Every time I did this, the first round would sluggishly cycle. 4 failure to feeds were caused because of this. Letting the chamber cool with the bolt open, then chambering and firing showed no ill effects.
And I wasn't even rapid firing. It was cold as **** though. Maybe that had an effect.
I think I have 1,000 rounds in it so far. 900 steel cased and 100 brass.
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