View Full Version : HK P30 Break In
What is good ball ammo to break in a P30 with? Or should is run with just about anything? I is an hk after all lol.
1_click_off
11-01-10, 18:03
Just feed it. Mine hasn't stopped on anything yet. You will love this gun.
I just used my 9mm reloads to break my P30 in. After firing 2 mags to get used to the feel, I filled a mag with 3 different bullet weight reloads, (115,124 &147gr). It fired them all without missing a beat.
m98evolution
11-01-10, 18:15
As mentioned above, you can get by with feeding it anything. However,
I do remember reading somewhere on HKPro that the recommended break-in was 124gr. (like the Speer Lawman or American Eagle) since the P30 was engineered to NATO specs.
124 from what HK told me two plus years ago when I bought mine. That is what it was designed too shoot as told by HK.
The Dumb Gun Collector
11-01-10, 18:49
Any old bullets. I use everything from Wolf 9mm steel to Winchester. Don't worry about it at all.
I just shot mine with whatever ammo the range had (keep in mind my range doesn't stock the best bullets but rather the cheapest) and it ran like a champ. Someone told me that 115gr ammo was too weak to cycle the fresh spring, but I never had a problem. YMMV enjoy your gun! :cool:
GermanSynergy
11-01-10, 19:28
P30 with LEM V2 will be my next handgun.
My friend broke his in with WWB 115's without issue.
I originally had some issues with my new P30 (as well as my P2000) shooting 115grain ammo. The stiff recoil spring had issues cycling the weaker rounds which seems to be a common issue with 9mm H&K guns. After a break in of a few hundred rounds of Federal 124grain the gun would eat anything.
I broke mine in with WWB and Federal 115g FMJ and got my first FTE at about 2,500 rounds.
If you really want to be anal about it, shove a few hundred rounds of 124gr NATO first. It's cheap.
Honestly though, I fed mine 100 rounds of 115gr first before 250 rounds of the aforementioned ammo, and have used 115gr until recently (switched to 147gr for competition), and I have had zero malfunctions. My round count is at 3,557.
How many rounds before a pistol like this is considered broken in?
crazymoose
11-03-10, 02:51
How many rounds before a pistol like this is considered broken in?
Zero, generally. The necessity for a break-in isn't usally present in modern pistol designs, especially the plastic ones. What you're doing is really function-testing more than breaking in. Virtually all of the plastic guns I've bought have run well from the get-go. Those that did not run well had problems that more shooting would not have fixed.
I took a brand new P30 out of the box and went straight into a class with it. Put over 1000 of 95gr frangible through it without a problem.
It's an H&K. It eats what you feed it.
How many rounds before a pistol like this is considered broken in?
Like crazymoose, I'm not as concerned about break-in as I am about function testing. If it's a carry gun, you might want to run several hundred rounds of your carry ammo through it, before you bet your life on it.
Beat Trash
11-03-10, 12:49
There is a difference between function testing and breaking in a gun.
With the HK P30, I most likely would want to run a box or two of the ammunition I wanted to carry in the gun, to ensure it would function and to verify the point of aim.
But with a HKP30, if it needed a break in period, or if it were finicky about the type of ammunition, then I'd be sending it back to HK.
Your HK should function with any ammunition that is made within the spec for that round.
As stated, it should function with anything. An HK shouldn't have a "break-in" period in my experience (which is extensive with this platform). If I bought an HK and it didn't work I wouldn't shoot it for another 500-1000 rounds hoping it would break in, I would send it back to HK directly. They aren't Les Baers ;)
Mine ran with everything I shot through it. A friend's P30L had one stovepipe out of a box of UMC when it was new. As other have stated, it should run with anything.
I've had two, DA/SA and LEM. As far as I'm concerned when light hit them that was enough break-in.
I've run any ammo I get my hands on, other than Wolf, and never missed a beat.
Shot 2,500 rounds through it at BW out of the box, first rounds through it, not a hitch.
Beged Atlanta for a LEM conversion for it without results then picked up a LEM. Never looked back.
Having said that, I train with the P30 and carry the HK45C. Just like the .45acp.
decodeddiesel
03-14-11, 14:59
Even though this thread is 4 months old, I figured it would be better to share my experiences here rather than start a new thread. Also, before I get into this please allow me to note that I have in fact contacted HK USA CS and will follow their instructions (which I will get to in a minute) before I RMA the pistol.
I purchased a P30 V2 LEM from Bud's Gun Shop and had it shipped to my FFL the first week of March. I ordered it, and 4 new magazines from CDNN to get started with. That weekend I took her out to the range for the first time. I had with me 250 rounds of Federal 115gr FMJ, and 100 rounds of 115gr WWB. I really wish I could say that the gun was "flawless" and "fed everything" but it just didn't.
The problems started about 50 rounds in, and got worse and worse. It was the notorious FTE on the final round of the magazine. The gun simply would not clear the brass from the ejection port after the final round of the magazine had been fired about 70% of the time, and the spent casings were literally "dribbling" out of the gun. Most would land on my hands and wrists after being fired. Also I experienced a few (3 or so) "mid magazine" failures for the slide to completely return to battery after feeding a new round from the magazine. All in all I fired about 200 rounds hoping to "break the gun in" all the while getting more and more frustrated every time the gun would malfunction. Well, I took her home and cleaned and lubed the pistol thoroughly, hoping that was all that was needed.
Well last Friday I brought the pistol to a local indoor range. The weapon was clean, and well lubed. I had 100 rounds of Federal 115gr, 200 of Remington UMC, and about 50 rounds of some Fiocchi-Loaded 147gr XTPs. Sadly it did not go well. I was having the same problems with all of the 115gr stuff, and it now got much worse. The gun was now exhibiting a 100% failure rate to eject on the last round form the magazine. I was doing my best to work through it though as I am finding I shoot the P30 extremely well and I really love the LEM trigger when the gun is working. The bit of good news is that the 147gr ammo I fired from the gun ran great. I brought this stuff with after reading some accounts of the P30 break-in necessary, and low and behold the 147gr ran great in the gun. The empties are ejecting much more positively than the 115gr empties, and it absolutely was ejecting and locking back on the last round fired from the magazine. This was encouraging, so I left the line and purchased 40 rounds of 124gr +P Gold Dots (don't ask how much I paid). Go figure, this ammo ran great as well. I they might be onto something with this 124gr break-in period.
This morning I called HK CS, and was told the gun needed a few hundred rounds of 124gr ammo put through it to "loosen up" the recoil spring. So following this advise I ran over to the local Sports Authority and purchased 300 rounds of 124gr RWS FMJ for the next range trip. I am going to try to get back to the indoor range sometime this week, but it may have to wait for a while.
Needless to say I was VERY disappointed in my $900 bit of "No Compromise". I really hope the gun will start working correctly after this break in and my confidence will be restored. As it stands now the gun is useless to me for anything more than a novelty given it's completely heinous failure rate. If the break-in was so necessary why is it not noted in the user's manual? I clearly remember on my Walther P99 it stated in the users manual that you should fire at least 200 rounds of 124gr ammo through the pistol before using 115gr ammo. Perhaps I missed it, but I see nothing of this effect in the P30 manual.
I will keep everyone posted.
Please keep us posted. I'm curious as to whether the gun really needs to be 'broken in' or if there are certain issues with the guns that need 'breaking in.'
Uh-oh, I forgot to break mine in. I've put 500 rounds of RWS/RUAG 124gr FMJ, and 50 147gr Golden Sabers, through it, without a problem. Seems to be OK without the break-in. :confused:
memphisjim
03-14-11, 16:41
ouch thats a pricey pistol for that performance
i know you dont want to hear it but ive seen new uncleaned or lubed glocks and a cz75 go through that federal stuff with out a hiccup
Pistol Shooter
03-14-11, 16:51
P30's come with very stiff recoil springs and should run any decent ammo with no problems but it doesn't hurt to mellow them up a bit.
I think NATO and possibly other European ammo (Fiocchi) is hotter than our standard UMC or WWB from Walmart.
My experience with a brand new P30 L:
On my first range trip with this pistol I first shot 50 rds. of 115 gr. American Eagle fmj which ejected very weakly at my feet, but with no malfunctions.
I then switched to 124 gr. Gold Dot and shot 150 rds of that. My P30 L ate it up.
The cases were ejected about 4' back and to the right of me. I could have collected them in a coffee can. :)
Bottom line is get 200 rds of some pretty warm ammo (Q4318, Gold Dot, etc.) and use it for your first range trip with your P30.
After that, you'll be GTG with any ammo in your P30.
Interesting. That which is sacreligious from a Gen 4 Glock is part of the break-in of the H&K. ;)
I don't think it's suprising for any 9mm pistol; as lame as high volume 115 grain fmj ammo has gotten.
memphisjim
03-14-11, 18:35
ive heard mixed views on the glock gen 4
it was huge risk to change up a pistol considered to be one of the most reliable
Lock the slide back and leave it that way until you shoot it again.
shot my P30 with the factory grease still slobbered in there and it shot fine with American Eagle 115g (it did eject the casing towards my head though).
I did have some FTFs with Tulammo though (the chamber was BLACK after a few rounds), but other than that I have not had a single issue.
I think it should be a common practice to run hot ammo during the break-in period on a NATO spec gun anyway.
decodeddiesel
03-14-11, 19:28
Lock the slide back and leave it that way until you shoot it again.
Negative, static compression of a spring will not reduce it's tension. It needs dynamic compression and rebound, e.g. the need to fire the gun with heavier recoiling ammunition. This is same reason why loaded magazines will not weaken the spring over time.
Guys, I really do not want this to turn into an HK bashing thread or something. That absolutely was not my intention of my post. I felt as though it is pertinent information for the community.
I am going to try to get these 300 rounds of the RWS out of the gun soon, however I am about to go OCONUS for 10 days so it will have to wait.
decodeddiesel
03-14-11, 19:31
shot my P30 with the factory grease still slobbered in there and it shot fine with American Eagle 115g (it did eject the casing towards my head though).
I did have some FTFs with Tulammo though (the chamber was BLACK after a few rounds), but other than that I have not had a single issue.
I think it should be a common practice to run hot ammo during the break-in period on a NATO spec gun anyway.
Interesting information. I do have a good amount of Brown Bear 115gr ammo stashed and I hope the gun will function well with it eventually (yes I know in the manual it says no steel cased and Al cased).
What exactly is a "NATO spec" gun? Why would it be common practice that they require a break in period?
decodeddiesel,
Stupid question but what color recoil spring is in your P30? As you probably already know it should be red. Just asking because I bought a P2000 a while back that had very similar issues as your gun is having. It turns out that it had a .40 caliber recoil spring which was causing the issues. H&K took care of the issue and provided excellent customer service.
My P30 had some issues as well. It had a few FTF with 115 grain Remington UMC and WWB when brand new. After about 200 rounds of 124grain Federal AE, it would eat anything I fed it.
No problems w/ mine... ever. It loves walmart Federal 9mm!
I've never been a fan of this "break-in" nonsense for modern handguns. I suppose there are guns that will get to 100% after sending a lot of rounds downrange, but I'd expect my nearly $1K handgun to perform if I was using quality ammunition and adequate lubrication. Especially when the vast majority of other users aren't reporting any issues.
Negative, static compression of a spring will not reduce it's tension. It needs dynamic compression and rebound, e.g. the need to fire the gun with heavier recoiling ammunition. This is same reason why loaded magazines will not weaken the spring over time.
Seemed to work for Mr Larry Vickers in his Gen4 Glock 17
Tough springs can take a 'set' from simply loading to capacity and leaving that way. Repeatedly exercising is what will weaken them.
Quick update;
the G17 Gen 4 I got for the show has ran great BUT I locked the slide to the rear in the box for about a week
My guess is that is a must
My bro Hackathorn just did a class and two Gen 4 G17's had mega problems - ammo was PMC ball
This prompted him to call his Glock POC and fill him in - the guy said a fix 'might' be in the works
This guy also said Glock WILL NOT stop producing the gen 3 guns
Also ref a Vickers Tactical/Tangodown mag catch for the Gen 4 Glocks - we are going to look hard at it; we think it may be enough of an improvement to do it
That's all for now - almost done filming this seasons Tactical Arms so back to work
Cheers
LAV
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=52911&highlight=slide
John_Wayne777
03-15-11, 06:48
Needless to say I was VERY disappointed in my $900 bit of "No Compromise". I really hope the gun will start working correctly after this break in and my confidence will be restored. As it stands now the gun is useless to me for anything more than a novelty given it's completely heinous failure rate. If the break-in was so necessary why is it not noted in the user's manual? I clearly remember on my Walther P99 it stated in the users manual that you should fire at least 200 rounds of 124gr ammo through the pistol before using 115gr ammo. Perhaps I missed it, but I see nothing of this effect in the P30 manual.
I will keep everyone posted.
A suggestion for you:
The LEM mainspring in the P30 by default is very stiff and may actually be the root of your problem. You can call up H&K and order the non-LEM mainspring for the P30 (part number 214300) which will have the dual benefit of reducing the trigger pull and making the slide cycle a bit easier.
I'm by no means an expert on armorer information for the P30, but I do know that H&K has been known in the past to ship an occasional P30 that has an out of spec mainspring that is way too strong, which hinders reliability with anything short of gorilla-strength ammo.
Something as simple as changing out the mainspring (it's a cheap part, less than $10.00 when I ordered it) may solve all of your problems. The non-LEM mainspring is essentially the same spring they use for the V3 P30 and the USP series of handguns, so you're not really taking a hit in terms of long term reliability with the lighter spring. If I found myself in your position I would call up H&K today and order that part and then expend the ammo you've allotted for "break-in" testing function with the new spring.
I think NATO and possibly other European ammo (Fiocchi) is hotter than our standard UMC or WWB from Walmart.
9mm NATO round is close in muzzle energy to US +P round. All HKs are made to use this ammo, so recoil springs tend to be on strong side. Same issue with Gen4 Glock - recoil system is designed to use combat or "full power"* ammo. Using weak, plinking rounds can deliver some problems, as they do not generate enough momentum to properly cycle gun.
When I used my new P30L with Barnaul 124gr and Blaser 115gr I had FTE every second round. After 50 rounds of this horror (I never before had any problem with HK, I was in shock) I used 124gr Magtech and 124gr American Eagle with no problem. Now I mostly use Geco (RUAG) 124gr.
Only ammo that gave me problems in HK were steel cased Barnaul (very weak ammo, PF under 125), alu cased Blaser 115gr and steel cased S&B 115gr (also on weak side).
However P30 and P30L with time will use weak ammo as well, but when you combine light load with steel or alu case (increased extraction resistance), then problems might come back.
* - As "full power" I consider ammo that has Power Factor for 9mm (as per IPSC/USPSA) of over 135. Going under PF130, to 125 are would induce problems in HK P30 and P30L. P30 easily takes ammo with PF over 150. I even shot ammo loaded for IPSC Open Major (PF165) in my P30L.
Cylinder Head
03-15-11, 08:08
I've had experience with the need to "break in" the recoil spring on my P30L. I bought it a few months after my HK45 and expected it to be a shooter right out of the box. Put 100 rounds of 115gr WWB through it the first range session and got repeated failures as well as a few brass tattoos on my forehead (about 50 of them).
I went home to whine about it on HKPro, but before I did I used the mythical search button and found out the P30's dirty little secret. Ordered a case of Fiocchi 124gr immediately, racked my slide 200 times at home, and the thing never had a hiccup again. It will now eat anything and hasn't had a failure in 3,000 plus rounds.
decodeddiesel
03-15-11, 09:33
I've never been a fan of this "break-in" nonsense for modern handguns. I suppose there are guns that will get to 100% after sending a lot of rounds downrange, but I'd expect my nearly $1K handgun to perform if I was using quality ammunition and adequate lubrication. Especially when the vast majority of other users aren't reporting any issues.
I hate to admit it, but I agree. I guess I just don't want to give up on this pistol yet, call me emotionally attached if you will lol.
decodeddiesel
03-15-11, 09:36
Seemed to work for Mr Larry Vickers in his Gen4 Glock 17
Tough springs can take a 'set' from simply loading to capacity and leaving that way. Repeatedly exercising is what will weaken them.
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=52911&highlight=slide
I understand perhaps it somehow worked for Mr. Vickers, however Sir this is a very basic material property of spring steel, and something one learns in a senior level Material Science class when one earns a degree in mechanical engineering. Thank you though for the suggestion.
decodeddiesel
03-15-11, 11:17
decodeddiesel,
Stupid question but what color recoil spring is in your P30? As you probably already know it should be red. Just asking because I bought a P2000 a while back that had very similar issues as your gun is having. It turns out that it had a .40 caliber recoil spring which was causing the issues. H&K took care of the issue and provided excellent customer service.
My P30 had some issues as well. It had a few FTF with 115 grain Remington UMC and WWB when brand new. After about 200 rounds of 124grain Federal AE, it would eat anything I fed it.
It is red, but thanks for the suggestion.
decodeddiesel
03-15-11, 11:21
Uh-oh, I forgot to break mine in. I've put 500 rounds of RWS/RUAG 124gr FMJ, and 50 147gr Golden Sabers, through it, without a problem. Seems to be OK without the break-in. :confused:
:confused:
Reading comprehension?
ETA: Well the fella I spoke to at HK (who did not give his name) must have been having a case of the Tuesdays and really didn't feel like "putting all of your (my) info into the system for just a single spring" and instead deferred me to HK-Parts.net. Kind of disappointing CS IMO.
That is disappointing to hear. I would try calling back and ask to speak to Travis Teague. I believe he is one of the head customer service reps and a great guy to deal with. He really helped me out the few times I had issues with my H&K's (and after dealing with other non-helpful employees).
I understand perhaps it somehow worked for Mr. Vickers, however Sir this is a very basic material property of spring steel, and something one learns in a senior level Material Science class when one earns a degree in mechanical engineering. Thank you though for the suggestion.
You may want to research stress relaxation........
ETA: Well the fella I spoke to at HK (who did not give his name) must have been having a case of the Tuesdays and really didn't feel like "putting all of your (my) info into the system for just a single spring" and instead deferred me to HK-Parts.net. Kind of disappointing CS IMO.
That "single spring" just happens to be essential to the entire operation of a semi-automatic handgun.
decodeddiesel
03-16-11, 00:22
You may want to research stress relaxation........
Sir, to the best of my knowledge this relates to plastics and polymers not steel or other metals for that matter.
Sir, to the best of my knowledge this relates to plastics and polymers not steel or other metals for that matter.
Hooke's law is an approximation, all materials are viscoelastic to some degree. The degree in question is usually negligible on Earth's surface though.
HK could help you more than this info.
Sir, to the best of my knowledge this relates to plastics and polymers not steel or other metals for that matter.
Wrong. Load a magazine and let it sit for a few years, then measure the free length of the spring. It will be shorter than a new one. That is stress relaxation.
"The phenomenon of stress relaxation, the time decrease of internal stress due to localized flow in a solid under constant uniaxial strain, is viewed in terms of present kinetic theories and available data for metals. Rate equations for shear flow, derived from molecular models of liquids and gases, are reviewed briefly. Combined with the theory of elasticity, these equations are shown to be identical to the classical Maxwell model and to the empirical logarithmic form in limiting cases for stress relaxation in solids. Without reference to the specific details of the localized flow, the general equations are found to correlate uniaxial data for many types of steels, copper, aluminum, magnesium, and lead for various temperatures and stress levels. In all of the data, one characteristic controlling reaction is foun"
Sorry for the thread hijack.
John_Wayne777
03-16-11, 07:12
ETA: Well the fella I spoke to at HK (who did not give his name) must have been having a case of the Tuesdays and really didn't feel like "putting all of your (my) info into the system for just a single spring" and instead deferred me to HK-Parts.net. Kind of disappointing CS IMO.
Sadly, while H&K has improved their customer service they haven't quite yet perfected it.
decodeddiesel
03-16-11, 07:42
Wrong. Load a magazine and let it sit for a few years, then measure the free length of the spring. It will be shorter than a new one. That is stress relaxation.
"The phenomenon of stress relaxation, the time decrease of internal stress due to localized flow in a solid under constant uniaxial strain, is viewed in terms of present kinetic theories and available data for metals. Rate equations for shear flow, derived from molecular models of liquids and gases, are reviewed briefly. Combined with the theory of elasticity, these equations are shown to be identical to the classical Maxwell model and to the empirical logarithmic form in limiting cases for stress relaxation in solids. Without reference to the specific details of the localized flow, the general equations are found to correlate uniaxial data for many types of steels, copper, aluminum, magnesium, and lead for various temperatures and stress levels. In all of the data, one characteristic controlling reaction is foun"
Sorry for the thread hijack.
OK great. Yup, I was mistaken and I admit I did not know this. Are you happy now? So I guess I will lock back the slide on my P30 and toss it to the back of my safe and come back to it in 3 years. :rolleyes:
No worries DD, I have a P30ls that was killing me on FTL and FTE with a really weak 115gr Rusian surplus that I picked up for $7.78 a box of 50 (1500 rounds of crap). Switch out to a little hotter load and 550 rds later of pure butter, ran like a champ. I've loaded up some
Berrys 115gr
Pistiol Power 6.0grains
CCI 500
To go see if I have the same problem, yet I doubt I will.
Good Luck and hang in there I think your problem will be a short lived one.
decodeddiesel
03-16-11, 10:38
No worries DD, I have a P30ls that was killing me on FTL and FTE with a really weak 115gr Rusian surplus that I picked up for $7.78 a box of 50 (1500 rounds of crap). Switch out to a little hotter load and 550 rds later of pure butter, ran like a champ. I've loaded up some
Berrys 115gr
Pistiol Power 6.0grains
CCI 500
To go see if I have the same problem, yet I doubt I will.
Good Luck and hang in there I think your problem will be a short lived one.
I hope you are correct. It is killing me to have this pistol and have absolutely zero confidence in it, especially when I could have gotten a G19 RTF2 for half the price. :mad:
Still though I focus on the positives.
The LEM trigger is fantastic. It is the first "safety-less" pistol I feel completely comfortable carrying AIWB. Being able to place my thumb over the hammer on the re-holster is just something that makes me (and my testicles) happy every time.
The accuracy I have experienced firing this pistol is legendary. The very first dot torture I ever fired with the pistol was at 5 yards and I scored a 49 (pulled one strong hand only). All of the dots except the single hand dots had single hole groups in them.
I was able to nail a milk jug full of water at about 60 yards with the 5th or 6th shot out of the gun. Trust me, it's harder to do than you think.
The ergonomics of this pistol are nothing short of amazing.
I know it is a long term investment I will be happy with once the problems are sorted out.
I wish you the best.
The P30, in my opinion, is the best new polymer pistol of the decade.
Happy shooting.
TheSmiter1
03-16-11, 18:59
OK great. Yup, I was mistaken and I admit I did not know this. Are you happy now? So I guess I will lock back the slide on my P30 and toss it to the back of my safe and come back to it in 3 years. :rolleyes:
Or maybe a week? You're rather confrontational for someone who simply wants to get their weapon functioning correctly.
decodeddiesel
03-16-11, 19:11
Or maybe a week? You're rather confrontational for someone who simply wants to get their weapon functioning correctly.
His posts had absolutely not a damn thing to do with getting this pistol up and running. The fellow wanted desperately to call me out and show that he knew more than I did about something, so kudos to him.
Actually, I was just trying to correct some commonly held misinformation. I do apologize for starting a response with "Wrong", as that has a more confrontational flavor than I intended.
I would certainly try the mainspring swap before going through the pain of shipping a pistol. If you ask for Travis at HK, explain the problem and ask for a spring to swap in, you might get a free one. For most things in life I have found that the least complicated answer is the most likely. As a number of posters, myself included, have attested, the platform is extremely sound, so yours is behaving in an uncharacteristic manner. Once you get the bugs worked out you may find it to be one of your dearest possessions.
If Travis can't provide one (#214300) Numrich Arms has them in stock for $6.35 + shipping.
John_Wayne777
03-17-11, 07:38
Gentlemen: Let's try and keep the conversation civil and disagreement respectful.
Todd G has recommended over on hk forum to run 200-500 rounds of 124 nato to "break in". I have followed that advice and have had no problems of any kind in the two of mine.
Berrys 115gr
Pistiol Power 6.0grains
CCI 500
100% reliable operation (275rds of above quoted load) and 400rds of 115gr WWB from WallyWorld at the range today. Just driving nails, very happy camper that it was just the low pressure surplus rounds I had shot previously. No servicing/lube was performed in 1750 rounds previous to today.
I shot mine for the first time on Sunday.
I did have a couple of stoppages. Specifically, I had 2 stovepipes. Once was a classic empty brass completely vertical in the ejection port, the other was completely horizontal. I can’t not say what caused this. I suspect it was user induced as I was getting used to the grip, the trigger, was swapping out the panels & backstraps, etc. In addition to the two stopepipes the gun failed to lock the side back when empty one time.
It should prob be noted I was also shooting 115gr home rolled ammo. Prior to shooting the pistol I field stripped it, removed the factory goop from the rails and inside of the slide, then re-lubed it liberally with wet oil of some unknown flavor.
Per TLG's suggestion I'll prob shoot some hotter ammo for the next few hundred rounds or until the stoppages go away.
gtmtnbiker98
03-22-11, 13:09
I shot mine for the first time on Sunday.
I did have a couple of stoppages. Specifically, I had 2 stovepipes. Once was a classic empty brass completely vertical in the ejection port, the other was completely horizontal. I can’t not say what caused this. I suspect it was user induced as I was getting used to the grip, the trigger, was swapping out the panels & backstraps, etc. In addition to the two stopepipes the gun failed to lock the side back when empty one time.
It should prob be noted I was also shooting 115gr home rolled ammo. Prior to shooting the pistol I field stripped it, removed the factory goop from the rails and inside of the slide, then re-lubed it liberally with wet oil of some unknown flavor.
Per TLG's suggestion I'll prob shoot some hotter ammo for the next few hundred rounds or until the stoppages go away.Until you get the thumbs down, failure to slide lock is common and is user induced.
I've had my P30 for about 3 months now. With me shooting various 115, 124, and 147gr, I have yet to have any failures in the first 750ish rounds. As mentioned, you could catch my brass in a coffee can.
However, I hand the pistol over to my wife (not an avid pistol shooter), and in a single magazine it exhibited every common manner of failure FTE, FTF, and when it did work....brass hitting her in the forehead. I take it back, shoot it, and it runs fine. I introduce what I know are her bad habits, to my shooting (limp wrist, grip to low and weak), and I start getting the same malfunctions as her. I worked with her on her grip and concentrating on not limp wristing, also loaded her with 124gr.....failures disappeared.
I love the pistol, I wouldn't trade it for anything at this point. But it appears it may not be quite as forgiving to bad form or mistakes as others, especially with weaker 115gr ammo.
I broke my p30 in with 115gr ammo (wwb & federal) found at walmart without any issue.
Until you get the thumbs down, failure to slide lock is common and is user induced.
This is one of the reasons I like the thumb safeties on my P30 and M&P 9. With my firing hand thumb riding atop the safety, it can't reach the slide stop for accidental interference.
I forgot to mention I also had some erratic ejection issues. It ejected them all (except the 2) but some were wide right, some 45 degrees to my right, some left marks on my forehead. Weird.
I did shoot a mag of 124gr factory ammo and it wasn't much different.
decodeddiesel
04-01-11, 10:18
UPDATE: Two weeks ago, right before I left on an OCONUS trip to Ukraine I managed to get to the indoor pistol range again. I picked up 300 rounds of 124gr RWS (Swiss Loaded) Ammo prior to the trip. My understanding was that since this is European ammo it should be pretty hot and should fulfill the "break in" requirements set by HK. Nothing changed since the last time I fired the weapon, except that the pistol was wiped down and re-lubed with Slip 2000 CLP prior to the trip.
During the trip I really focused on 2 things, first noting any and all malfunctions, and second really trying to hammer down my grip and my grip panel selection to stop my thumb from interfering with the slide catch. Well the good news is that I have the grip really down well. I am able to get into it quickly and automatically after a draw from concealment, and a speed reload. Once again I am amazed at how well I shoot this pistol. My accuracy is amazing, and speed getting better than I am with my M&P9c. The bad news is that the gun still isn't 100% reliable.
On my last 50 rounds I has 3 FTEs, all of which left were on the last round from the magazine, and all left the case "stovepiped" in the ejection port. I also had 2 failures to return to battery. Although this is FAR better than the pistol was behaving, I am still somewhat disappointed. I am not giving up yet. I will run another 200 rounds of this RWS ammo through the gun (it is great ammo BTW) and see. If I have no more malfunctions I am going to give 115gr a shot again. If I continue to have malfunctions for the next 200 rounds, I am going to make HK give me an RMA and take a look at the gun.
John_Wayne777
04-01-11, 10:36
A wise strategy. The failures to go back into battery puzzle me.
decodeddiesel
04-01-11, 10:46
A wise strategy. The failures to go back into battery puzzle me.
They puzzle me as well. The only thing that comes immediately to mind is that perhaps I am "dragging" my thumbs on the slide enough to cause the issue, but I am really doubting it.
I'm really doubting the thumb issue. Have you looked at the recoil spring bushing to make sure there are no snags or wear on it? Might have a binding issue? Just a thought.
I hope your situation improves, best of luck and stay safe.
decodeddiesel
04-01-11, 11:49
I'm really doubting the thumb issue. Have you looked at the recoil spring bushing to make sure there are no snags or wear on it? Might have a binding issue? Just a thought.
I hope your situation improves, best of luck and stay safe.
Well, everything looks OK with the spring guide and bushing. Thanks for the suggestion though.
TacticalTurtle
04-02-11, 14:45
Well, everything looks OK with the spring guide and bushing. Thanks for the suggestion though.
That is definitely a grip issue, either thumbs or limp wristing can cause the slide to not lock back when empty.
As for my HKP30, I've had her for about 8 months and put over 2,000 rounds through it with no issues. I've only cleaned her a few times also. :D
John_Wayne777
04-02-11, 15:36
Failures to lock back on the P30 are fairly common until folks learn how to keep their grip from neutering the slide lock function. Failures to go into battery, on the other hand, aren't something I've seen before.
The more I hear the more I wonder about that mainspring. If that's inappropriately stiff it will cause these sorts of problems.
decodeddiesel
04-03-11, 00:41
That is definitely a grip issue, either thumbs or limp wristing can cause the slide to not lock back when empty.
:confused:
Sir, have you read the thread?
TacticalTurtle
04-03-11, 12:04
:confused:
Sir, have you read the thread?
Unless I'm missing something else you're having a failure to lock back when the magazine is empty?
TwoSqueeze
04-03-11, 12:28
Unless I'm missing something else you're having a failure to lock back when the magazine is empty?
That was volgrad that was still talking about the failure to lock back. Decode was talking about failure to return to battery.
From Decode's First post:
The problems started about 50 rounds in, and got worse and worse. It was the notorious FTE on the final round of the magazine. The gun simply would not clear the brass from the ejection port after the final round of the magazine had been fired about 70% of the time, and the spent casings were literally "dribbling" out of the gun. Most would land on my hands and wrists after being fired. Also I experienced a few (3 or so) "mid magazine" failures for the slide to completely return to battery after feeding a new round from the magazine. All in all I fired about 200 rounds hoping to "break the gun in" all the while getting more and more frustrated every time the gun would malfunction. Well, I took her home and cleaned and lubed the pistol thoroughly, hoping that was all that was needed.
Cheers,
-TS
TacticalTurtle
04-03-11, 13:46
Wow, can't believe I missed that. Thanks for pointing it out TwoSqueeze.
Decoded, this could be a magazine spring issue, how many mags do you have? You might be able to isolate by attempting to fire with two or three mags fully loaded. If the problem persists on all mags, then you might be able to rule that out for the cause. On the slide, is there any binding or 'sticking' spots when you ride the slide forward? It should be a smooth ride back and forth. HK makes close tolerance weapons so any small abrasions or burrs will slow it down. Also, you might want to check your casings after you fire, look for any abnormal wear marks, check your primers on spent casings too. Also for your ammo HK advises on not running any +P or +P+ which can cause over pressurization leading to failures to extract. It's in the fine print in your manual. One last note, check the dimensions of the bore, you could also have one of those rare cases when something wasn't machined right.
decodeddiesel
04-03-11, 21:30
UPDATE: Well I managed to get up to one of my favorite spots in the mountains here today to get another 200 rounds of the RWS 124gr FMJ ammo through the gun, along with some practice with my shotty and my AK-101. I am happy to say the P30 ran through the 200 rounds I brought for it without a single incident. The empties are ejecting much more positively, and everything seems to be working well.
Next step is to try to out some 115gr ammo on my next trip. I have a few hundred rounds of 115gr WWB, as well as some 1000 rounds 115gr Brown Bear.
In the near future I am going to trim down the left side slide catch (or swap it with an HK45 one), and I am waiting for someone to get the V3 mainspring and V3 FPB spring in stock so I can go to a V4/Todd Green trigger on the pistol. We'll see how the pistol does then. At this point the V2 LEM trigger has really grown on me and I am very happy with the "shoot-ability" of the gun as it is. I am eager to get a 2000 round challenge started soon.
TacticalTurtle
04-03-11, 21:34
Glad it's working out for you. I ran mine hard out of the box with no issues.
Mine never really seemed to require a "break-in". I just cleaned it thoroughly before I shot it and it has never jammed or malfunctioned on me yet. I have heard stories of others that needed a few hundred rounds or so to really get grooved though.
Very informative responses here. I am looking at either the SIG P229 e2 or the hk p30, both in 9mm but now have no idea which to get. I love the new grips on the 229, but just recently held the p30 and was blown away by the comfort. My MAIN concern is will they feed like my Gen 3 Glock? I've bought and sold glocks over the years but everytime i get one, and shoot right outta the box the G19 eats anything. I've just been dying for a RELIABLE SA/DA sig or HK...what to do what to do...I just don't want to pay $750+ for something that works well with this, but not well with that....:confused:
F-Trooper05
04-25-11, 00:00
Very informative responses here. I am looking at either the SIG P229 e2 or the hk p30, both in 9mm but now have no idea which to get. I love the new grips on the 229, but just recently held the p30 and was blown away by the comfort. My MAIN concern is will they feed like my Gen 3 Glock? I've bought and sold glocks over the years but everytime i get one, and shoot right outta the box the G19 eats anything. I've just been dying for a RELIABLE SA/DA sig or HK...what to do what to do...I just don't want to pay $750+ for something that works well with this, but not well with that....:confused:
If you got a P30 that needed to be broke in (and I emphasize "If" because only a handful do), then it would only take one or two trips to the range before it was good to go. It's just a stiff recoil spring. Not a big deal.
Also for your ammo HK advises on not running any +P or +P+ which can cause over pressurization leading to failures to extract. It's in the fine print in your manual. One last note, check the dimensions of the bore, you could also have one of those rare cases when something wasn't machined right.
__________________
The part on +p is NOT in my manual on my newly purchased P30. I would not buy any 9mm firearm that cannot handle +p.
The +p+ advisory is common because there is no SAAMI spec for +p+. There is, on the other hand, a SAAMI spec for +p ammo and I have yet to see a modern 9mm that cannot handle it.
Fire_Medic
04-25-11, 06:53
Also for your ammo HK advises on not running any +P or +P+ which can cause over pressurization leading to failures to extract. It's in the fine print in your manual. One last note, check the dimensions of the bore, you could also have one of those rare cases when something wasn't machined right.
__________________
The part on +p is NOT in my manual on my newly purchased P30. I would not buy any 9mm firearm that cannot handle +p.
The +p+ advisory is common because there is no SAAMI spec for +p+. There is, on the other hand, a SAAMI spec for +p ammo and I have yet to see a modern 9mm that cannot handle it.
This is interesting because the Winchester Nato 124gr FMJ is +P ammo.......
I have a reload that very closely mimics this ammunition and ran 2,500 rounds of it in 2 weeks through the P30L I had back in 2010 without a single hiccup. My only issue, if you even want to call it that was learning to adjust my grip to not interfere with the function of the pistol, and choosing the correct panels in order to achieve the best ergos for my hands.
DD- Glad everything is working out for you, keep us posted to a follow up range trip, I would say after another trouble free range trip you can go ahead and start your 2,000 round challenge, mine was a lot of fun on the P30L I had last year.
A P30 LEM is on my short list at the moment.
FM
Very informative responses here. I am looking at either the SIG P229 e2 or the hk p30, both in 9mm but now have no idea which to get. I love the new grips on the 229, but just recently held the p30 and was blown away by the comfort. My MAIN concern is will they feed like my Gen 3 Glock? I've bought and sold glocks over the years but everytime i get one, and shoot right outta the box the G19 eats anything. I've just been dying for a RELIABLE SA/DA sig or HK...what to do what to do...I just don't want to pay $750+ for something that works well with this, but not well with that....:confused:
I think the responses on here have clarified some worries I had about chosing the HK P30 or Sig p229 e2. The +p was a concern for the HK, but I see its listed with somewhat similar recommendations on the Sig FAQ site for their firearms as well, stating:
"Can I use +P or +P+?
+P Ammo manufactured to SAAMI/CIP/NATO specs is fine to use as a defensive round or for occasional range use. Continual use of this round will make it necessary for more frequent service on the pistol. We do NOT recommend the use of any +P+ round. This may void your warranty. "
Sorry, didn't mean to add Sig into the thread...Anyway, the HK P30 looks promising and the break in period seems reasonable like people have stated. 200 rnds is nothing at the range. If anyone does any future p30 range reports, would love to hear about it! thnx! Dumb question but I assume the ammo issues are for .40 as well as 9mm...
decodeddiesel
04-25-11, 15:20
This is interesting because the Winchester Nato 124gr FMJ is +P ammo.......
I have a reload that very closely mimics this ammunition and ran 2,500 rounds of it in 2 weeks through the P30L I had back in 2010 without a single hiccup. My only issue, if you even want to call it that was learning to adjust my grip to not interfere with the function of the pistol, and choosing the correct panels in order to achieve the best ergos for my hands.
DD- Glad everything is working out for you, keep us posted to a follow up range trip, I would say after another trouble free range trip you can go ahead and start your 2,000 round challenge, mine was a lot of fun on the P30L I had last year.
A P30 LEM is on my short list at the moment.
FM
I will be sure to. At the moment I am finishing a large project at my work, as well as the end of the semester at school so time is scarce. I hope to get to the range and post an update soon.
The 2000 round challenge will happen this summer, however ammo money is pretty tight at the moment.
Guys the break in on the P30 is just a general recommendation and isn't concrete. I ran mine right out of the box with wimpy WWB and Federal Champion from Wal-Mart and didn't have any issues.
My P30 has gone over 1800 rounds so far with zero malfunctions.
It's eaten any and all ammo I've fed it, from "value pack" to +P+ Ranger T.
Quick Stick
04-25-11, 18:23
Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I have a question with this platform.
I've been considering moving from a glock 17 to the p30. I know nothing is perfect and all guns can have problems. My only experiance with any HK was a USP I used to own.
I never had any problems with the USP, but it never "did it" for me. The p30 I held felt great. However, I did not get a chance to shoot it.
After reading this thread, I have a slight pause. Moving platforms was maybe just a perceived step up, but the p30 feels great!
I shoot whatever, sometimes, crap ammo steel cased stuff for training. After the talked about break-in, are you guys having any problems shooting junk stuff.
Ive owned 4 different P30's and a P30L since 2007 and never had any issues or malfunctions with any of them. All were V3 varients. Ammo used was WWB 115gr FMJ, WWB 147gr HP's, Winchester 124gr NATO, American Eagle 124gr FMJ, Federal 115gr FMJ, Winchester 124 gr +p, Federal HST 124gr +p & 147gr +p, Corbon DPX 115 gr and Remington 124gr +p.
Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I have a question with this platform.
I've been considering moving from a glock 17 to the p30. I know nothing is perfect and all guns can have problems. My only experiance with any HK was a USP I used to own.
I never had any problems with the USP, but it never "did it" for me. The p30 I held felt great. However, I did not get a chance to shoot it.
After reading this thread, I have a slight pause. Moving platforms was maybe just a perceived step up, but the p30 feels great!
I shoot whatever, sometimes, crap ammo steel cased stuff for training. After the talked about break-in, are you guys having any problems shooting junk stuff.
The differences that matter to me between the Glock and P30 are as follows: The P30 has a large slide release lever that prevents resting your support hand thumb on the frame. The trigger action on a Glock is more simple and easier to use overall, and easier to use at speed.
Based on that, i sold my P30's and went to a G19. If HK ever does come out with a striker fired pistol, i hope it has a more user friendly trigger action and a non intrusive slide release.
I am told by someone I trust that you can shoot any platform if you just shoot it enough.
That said, I have had a NIB P30 for several months. I have shot about 500 rounds through it - ALL factory reloaded 115 gr FMJ. There have been NO malf's of any kind. No FTF, FTE, or misfires. It doesn't seem to eject with a great deal of authority, but it ejects every time. Slide locks back on the last round. Gun shoots quite well. It is accurate, at least as I shoot. It DOES have a "peculiar" trigger. Can't exactly describe it, other than it's different from my Sigs, CZ, 1911's, or Ruger SR9c. But you can shoot it well, despite the fact it feels "different". YMMV
decodeddiesel
04-30-11, 01:33
I am glad all of your P30s worked, I really am. I like this pistol a lot, and I shoot it extremely well. However as was clearly documented by my postings in this thread, my pistol (a P30 V2 LEM) DID NOT work out of the box and required a break-in. I have conducted a 500 round break-in with hot 124gr as per HK's recommendation, and I am planning on getting to an indoor range this weekend to try out WWB and UMC 115gr.
I read about the "break in" before my P30L arrived from Bud's. I went ahead and purchased a case of Winchester ranger 124gr NATO ammo, and they both arrived at same time.
Within a month I used up the case of win, and then switched to white box 115gr, I am at about 1500 rnds through it so far, and not a single malfunction. I have to say it is the best 9mm so far for me. My previous favorite was a W. German P226.
Fire_Medic
04-30-11, 10:00
I read about the "break in" before my P30L arrived from Bud's. I went ahead and purchased a case of Winchester ranger 124gr NATO ammo, and they both arrived at same time.
Within a month I used up the case of win, and then switched to white box 115gr, I am at about 1500 rnds through it so far, and not a single malfunction. I have to say it is the best 9mm so far for me. My previous favorite was a W. German P226.
That P30L is laser accurate, I miss mine.
Lucky Strike
04-30-11, 15:16
I am glad all of your P30s worked, I really am. I like this pistol a lot, and I shoot it extremely well. However as was clearly documented by my postings in this thread, my pistol (a P30 V2 LEM) DID NOT work out of the box and required a break-in. I have conducted a 500 round break-in with hot 124gr as per HK's recommendation, and I am planning on getting to an indoor range this weekend to try out WWB and UMC 115gr.
Glad you're getting things figured out. I had the slide release lever shortened by a local gunsmith. He took off like 70 or 75% of the length and refinished the part so that it doesn't look like a hack job. I also bought a spare lever from HK (it was like $20) so that I can go back to stock if I ever get the desire.
I ran about 300 rounds through my P30 this morning and I had one FTE. I was shooting all my own reloads (made with range pickup brass) so I tend to blame issues on my ammo. The occurances are kinda rare though (maybe once every 3rd range trip or something). I've never had an issue with factory ammo.
I got my first sub 8 second FAST drill using the P30 today so I was pretty happy about that....not that impressive to a lot of the experienced shooters here but it was like .70 seconds faster then my previous best.
Pistol Shooter
04-30-11, 17:30
I am glad all of your P30s worked, I really am. I like this pistol a lot, and I shoot it extremely well. However as was clearly documented by my postings in this thread, my pistol (a P30 V2 LEM) DID NOT work out of the box and required a break-in. I have conducted a 500 round break-in with hot 124gr as per HK's recommendation, and I am planning on getting to an indoor range this weekend to try out WWB and UMC 115gr.
I'd suggest that you get in touch with HK customer service ASAP and send it back so they can address your issues.
HK customer service is very good in my experience and they'll take very good care of you and your pistol.
When you call, ask for Travis. I'm sure your issue can be resolved.
And maybe we can put this very worn out, tiresome thread to rest.;)
decodeddiesel
04-30-11, 18:57
I'd suggest that you get in touch with HK customer service ASAP and send it back so they can address your issues.
HK customer service is very good in my experience and they'll take very good care of you and your pistol.
When you call, ask for Travis. I'm sure your issue can be resolved.
And maybe we can put this very worn out, tiresome thread to rest.;)
For ****s sake, please read the thread.
I have a P30l and my break in out of the box consisted of 20 147gr federal, 50 124gr federal and 200 115gr umc, no failures of any kind. 14,000 rounds later of mostly 115gr umc the exact same result. At least for me this gun will just not fail.
decodeddiesel
04-30-11, 22:19
UPDATE: I brought my MK18 and the P30 to the mountains today fore some recoil therapy. Good news on the P30, I had 50 rounds of the 124gr RWS "break-in ammo" and fired that without incident. I had some 115gr WWB, and 115gr Brown Bear, I decided to go straight to the Brown Bear. 200 rounds and not a hitch of the Brown Bear....I switched to the WWB and fired another 100 trouble free rounds. The pistol has at this point gone for around 650 rounds without a single malfunction with both 124gr and 115gr. I think I am almost to the point to where I would completely trust the pistol, but I want another trouble free day of 300 to 400 rounds to be sure. Once I am satisfied the pistol is OK I am going to add Heinie night sights and call it good.
ETA: A few things to add, for one I did not clean or add lube before the session. The pistol was not dry, but it was "damp" with oil and pretty dirty. Also the ambient temp was about 29F so it was rather chilly out. All big pluses for the reliability.
Six oh Nine
05-01-11, 00:10
for the record i didnt read what everyone post, but i am an HK P30 owner, and i have had a few k round through mine, of which i have used the 9mm Dynamit Nobel (Geco) 124gr. FMJ Ammo at least a 1000 rounds of which ran through just fine. I would use this ball ammo any day. if any one else recommended this i second this opinion.
Fire_Medic
05-01-11, 08:04
UPDATE: I brought my MK18 and the P30 to the mountains today fore some recoil therapy. Good news on the P30, I had 50 rounds of the 124gr RWS "break-in ammo" and fired that without incident. I had some 115gr WWB, and 115gr Brown Bear, I decieded to go straight to the Brown Bear. 200 rounds and not a hitch of the Brown Bear....I switched to the WWB and fired another 100 trouble free rounds. The pistol has at this point gone for around 500 rounds without a single malfunction with both 124gr and 115gr. I think I am almost to the point to where I would completely trust the pistol, but I want another trouble free day 300 to 400 rounds to be sure. Once I am satisfied the pistol is OK I am going to add Heinie night sights and call it good.
That's good bro, I told you it would come along. Enjoy it, it's a great pistol.
decodeddiesel
05-03-11, 22:11
That's good bro, I told you it would come along. Enjoy it, it's a great pistol.
Even with the malfunctions it was apparent it was a gem of a pistol from the get go. I am just happy it is working properly.
I am a recent p30L owner, having fallen in love with the hand fit the moment I picked it up. I haven't had as many issues, but what I have noticed is that my son gets a stovepipe on EVERY shot.
Now I understand the whole limp wristing thing, however this does not happen when he shoots any other pistol including M&P, Glock, Beretta, etc. What is it that requires HK's to use these "special" springs? The other guns seem to work just fine with "regular" spings. In fact, the only thing I have yet to observe is that the stiff springs cause the HK to be LESS reliable. I wonder how much extra I paid for that feature????....
The whole thing is a bit of a dissapointment because the gun also needs about $350 worth of trigger work and I had to pull off the right side slide release because it was a poorly executed idea. I also need to modify the left side slide release as it interferes with just about every thumb position. Why in the world did they move it that far back?
After all is said and done, it is still the best auto pistol I've ever owned, fired, or handled. :D
Pistol Shooter
05-06-11, 17:36
For ****s sake, please read the thread.
I posted a response to try to help you and you come back with that? I really don't appreciate your tone and language.
You also responded with the "read the ****ing thread!" to other members who offered opinions trying to help you.
You've had more problems with a P30 than anyone I've ever talked with or read about.
The P30 runs like a Swiss watch for most folks...
I've got 3,200 rds. of assorted fmj and jhp ammo through my P30 L without a single malfunction.
PistolShooter out.
decodeddiesel
05-06-11, 17:45
I posted a response to try to help you and you come back with that? I really don't appreciate your tone and language.
You also responded with the "read the ****ing thread!" to other members who offered opinions trying to help you.
You've had more problems with a P30 than anyone I've ever talked with or read about.
The P30 runs like a Swiss watch for most folks...
I've got 3,200 rds. of assorted fmj and jhp ammo through my P30 L without a single malfunction.
PistolShooter out.
Good for you, if you would have actually read the thread you would have seen on page 1 that I had already called HK CS, and was told the pistol needed a break in by Travis himself.
I told people this so that I was not repeating myself over and over and over. It is amazing how people have no clue how these forums work.
Pistol Shooter
05-06-11, 17:56
Sure, good luck to you.
For ****s sake, please read the thread.
Real charmer you are.
TwoSqueeze
05-06-11, 19:37
I guess people are really just not getting it. The point of a thread is to have a coherent discussion about the Original Posting. By not reading the thread through thouroghly before giving advice you are just clogging up the thread with repeated useless information. I think that Decode was fully justified in saying what he said considering that was the fourth recommendation in the thread to call HK CS after he had already explained that he had done that on page one. That is my take on it, but what do I know:rolleyes:
ETA: Repeat my sig line as a mantra before posting and you will end up with less F bombs dropped on you.
Good to see this thread still alive....I havent had time to shoot much, but have now put over 500 rounds through it without a problem. I know it not that much, but am happy with it. On a side note, I did put an hk45 slide lock in it. It helps with a high grip.
decodeddiesel
05-06-11, 23:51
Real charmer you are.
:rolleyes:
Good to see this thread still alive....I havent had time to shoot much, but have now put over 500 rounds through it without a problem. I know it not that much, but am happy with it. On a side note, I did put an hk45 slide lock in it. It helps with a high grip.
Thats awesome! I heard so many good things, I found 1 yesterday at my local shop for $925 (ouch) and put some cash down. I was trying to decide between that and the Sig p229 E2 but nothing felt as good in my hand as the HK P30. I actually like where the decocker and mag release are. I can hit the mag release with my index finger or thumb. The ergonomics is perfect for my smaller hands.
Now I understand the whole limp wristing thing, however this does not happen when he shoots any other pistol including M&P, Glock, Beretta, etc. What is it that requires HK's to use these "special" springs? The other guns seem to work just fine with "regular" spings. In fact, the only thing I have yet to observe is that the stiff springs cause the HK to be LESS reliable. I wonder how much extra I paid for that feature????...
Most of the new Gen4 Glocks and HKs were built around the idea that they will be used by European or NATO nations that run hotter ammo standard (124g minimum) compared to US' standard of 115g ammo. They built a stiffer spring to be able to take the abuse of hotter loads. You have to remember how the P30 was originally designed for the German Army and in typical HK fashion, decided to sell the gun commercially that met and exceeded NATO tolerances.
Good luck with you P30. I have 7000 rounds through mine and only experienced 3 stoppages when i was shooting it the first time with Wolf ammo. :rolleyes:
I know its an old thread but I came across it by googling.
Just want to add something to the knowledge base here.
I have a very new hk p30l (about 200 rounds though it). I was at the range yesterday and with pmc ammo, I had round after round either fail to eject, or fail to lock the slide with the last round in the mag.
To narrow the issue down, I alternated the PMC ammo with Speer lawman 124gr, winchester 115gr, and federal 115gr. (all fmj)
Id put 1 round at a time in a mag and fire to see what happened. Most of the PMC got stuck between the slide and barrel. The other brands fired fine, they ejected properly and locked the slide on the last round.
The PMC ammo didnt have enough power to lock the slide, or send it back far enough to get the case out.
Mine has been 100% since I got it. One time did I have a issue and I was doing everything wrong, off hand only, shooting on the move, weak competition ammo. With good full power ammo there have been no problems. The weaker your ammo the better your backstop needs to be.
My P30 needed no such 'break-in'. I fired some real cheap steel cased stuff through it right out of the box and I had a few hang ups but it was really the ammo - Tula is the worst of the worst for steel. Anyhow, shooting brass again and it is mint, no issues.
Just take it out and blast away with it.
buffdriver
11-20-12, 18:40
I purchased my P30 v2 9mm almost two years ago. No break-in period needed. Fired everything I've fed it without issue: 115gr and 124gr. Did the vTGS conversion at home and now have something between a v2 and a v1 light LEM trigger pull.
It's nice to know at least one company is still producing quality LEO/Mil grade firearms which are readily available and isn't plagued by QA issues (a la Sig and Glock). There's something to be said for a company that doesn't see the need to rush out a flavor of the month and just does one thing well. Kudos to HK.
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