View Full Version : Removing krylon from M4s? UPDATE
Are the general paint removers good to go on removing krylon from an Aimpoint M4s? Trying to remove the paint to get as close to the original look on the Aimpoint so I can sell it.
Robb Jensen
11-05-10, 22:42
MEK works very well.
home depot/ lowes...acetone works good too.
You might try a Carburetor Cleaner. Some of them have toluene which is close to mek (methyl ethyl ketone)
Before you try any of the above solvents (We don't call MEK M.E. DEATH for nothing!) try soaking it in PineSol.
I don't know if the Aimpoint has any plastic parts, but MEK, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, acetone and the like are harsh on plastics and rubber and can cause crazing, softening and even melting. Oven cleaners can be harsh too.
Of course, don' t immerse the unit in Pinesol (or anything else) if there's a chance doing so will cause damage
Black Wrench
11-06-10, 03:40
just sell it the way it is. it's used, it's used. I'd be more worried about the price then the exterior paint. Sell it as is..
paper towels, a toothbrush, and lacquer thinner.. i can think of at least two aimpoints specifically that i've stripped like this. wipe up what you can with the paper towels, then dip the brush in the thinner and scrub out the corners. wipe it up with the towels.
i've also done this on handguards, receivers, stocks, etc.. i've also found that cheap non-synthetic paint brushes work great for detail stuff. like art paint brushes... got a whole set at wallyworld that's helped strip a couple guns.
Fuzzy-Reticle
11-06-10, 11:02
Any solvent used should be kept far away from any plastics as stated above. That being said some chemicals are faster than others but are more aggressive and more dangerous to work with. MEK is pretty nasty. I would just repaint it black or reduce the cost or sell as is. If you get that crap on the lens it will be the devil to get it off and smudge free.
paint stores sell a product called Goof-off. this will remove dried latex paint.
or maybe you can try the citrus based, Goo-Gone. I have used it to remove Sharpie marker but I don't have any experience with it on paint.
I have used industrial strength citrus based cleaners & solvents and they will remove some amazing stuff! Not sure how they'll affect plastics though
Dionysusigma
11-06-10, 23:30
Having messed with a lot of MEK, and being the only person with enough sense to wear a respirator the entire day I was using it, I've gotta echo the recommendations to use it only as a last resort.
Also tagging this thread for reference. :)
MEK wouldn't eat away the anodizing on the Aimpoint?
Either way, if you use any keytone solvent, keep it away from the glass and any plastics that may be on the M4.
I have used MEK on other anodized aluminum parts. It did not harm the anodizing. Read up on the MSDS for MEK. It's hazardous
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Methyl_ethyl_ketone-9927358
Heavy Metal
11-15-10, 21:48
Go to your auto parts store and get a can of acetone.
It is less hazardous than MEK and will easily dissolve Krylon.
The regular GunScrubber will do it with a very little elbow grease thrown in.
Before you try any of the above solvents (We don't call MEK M.E. DEATH for nothing!) try soaking it in PineSol.
Also Simple Green should work!
Dionysusigma
11-15-10, 22:17
Go to your auto parts store and get a can of acetone.
It is less hazardous than MEK and will easily dissolve Krylon.
And it will easily dissolve any polymer parts you have also painted... :fie:
And it will easily dissolve any polymer parts you have also painted... :fie:
have you experienced this? it's been my experience that the polymers used in quality AR parts is completely unaffected by acetone
Seriously, try selling it on eBay. Put in the listing it was used in Afghanistan by Special Forces. Leave the paint on because all SF guys paint their weapons.
Dionysusigma
11-15-10, 22:55
Have you experienced this? It's been my experience that the polymers used in quality AR parts is completely unaffected by acetone.
I've used acetone for a lot of things, but admittedly haven't had the guts to try using it on an AR. I've ruined a lot of various plastics with it, though.
Heavy Metal
11-15-10, 23:17
So? Take the furniture off first then.
I've been watching this thread with interest for a while. Having experience with both plastics and metals my suggestion for the OP is:
Use Pine Sol or Simple Green. Non-toxic fumes, and while they will leave slight chemical burns on the skin if you don't wash your hands, wont bio accumulate in your body like the other solvents listed. They are also safe for polymers, which seems to be the major point of contention in the thread.
If you don't trust these options for the entire gun, then I would say Acetone is your best bet on the metal, but wear respirator and gloves, and I would still use Pine Sol or Simple Green on the polymers (especially any optics)
lacquer works great. pour the lacquer into a container and watch the paint start to wrinkle up after 5 minutes. you're gonna have to strip your weapon into separate parts and let them soak. take a toothbrush to the parts once you see the wrinkles and the paint will come off with the greatest of ease. you won't be able to use rubber gloves because they will get chewed up by the lacquer, you're gonna have to do it bare handed or use atleast a triple layer of rubber gloves on. make sure the you do this process in a VERY well ventilated area.
dont you mean lacquer thinner?
you do not want to soak your gun in lacquer..
Update, I got to Home Depot, I went conservative due to the fact it was an rds. I bought some Simple Green, Motsenbackers graffiti remover, and some shop paper towels.
Both are water based, because they were mild it took awhile, but the krylon came off with some time, and elbow grease.
The M4s looks like new, and you cant tell it had been painted.
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
I have removed Krylon from several optics with paint thinner, shop rags and a tooth brush
for an AR, copious amounts of brake cleaner and shop rags
TheActivePatriot
11-18-10, 17:36
I've used acetone for a lot of things, but admittedly haven't had the guts to try using it on an AR. I've ruined a lot of various plastics with it, though.
I've used all sorts of chemicals to strip paint off AR furniture. I have not found a damn thing that will damage either Magpul polymer or factory Colt furniture. MEK, acetone, toluene, brake parts cleaner (chlorinated and non-chlorinated), methylene chloride paint stripper (which will disintegrate many plastics and rubbers in a matter of minutes)... don't even begin to dissolve the polymer - even with an overnight soak. Milspec AR plastic is some tough shit.
paint stores sell a product called Goof-off. this will remove dried latex paint.
or maybe you can try the citrus based, Goo-Gone. I have used it to remove Sharpie marker but I don't have any experience with it on paint.
I agree with the "Goof-Off", I use it on stuff like you want.
BushmasterFanBoy
11-20-10, 09:48
Are the general paint removers good to go on removing krylon from an Aimpoint M4s? Trying to remove the paint to get as close to the original look on the Aimpoint so I can sell it.
Hoppe's 9 works fine for me when I fudge a paintjob. Figure, its already a gun solvent, so it can't be that unsafe. Just don't get anything on the lens. ;)
This stuff is good for paint removal and quite a few other things.
I'll use this before brake cleaner etc.
It is safer than most other chemicals.
I keep a can around and have used it on plastic with no problems.
jisco
Skyfire1201
08-10-11, 11:33
I just stripped off Krylon from an Aimpoint R1 using Pine-sol and Goof-off, with success.
Pine-sol is safe on rubber, and appears to be safe on the optics coating too, so I dipped the entire sight into a jar of pine-sol and just let it sit for a few minutes, then took a nylon brush to it. That got rid of most of the thin layers of Krylon. Then I dipped the sight in a bucket of water (the R1 is waterproof, at least to this level) to wash off the pine-sol.
For the thicker layers, it was a combination of Goof-off and scrubbing with a soft cloth. The toughest part was probably the crevases and fine gaps, where I had to first soften with Goof-off, then use a fine tipped tooth pick. BTW, Goof-off contains acetone in it. I didn't dare letting it touch the lens coating, so I can't say whether it'll damage the optics.
Another method I found later is to use Goof-off or pine-sol to soften the paint up first, then use brake cleaner (the none chlorine flavor) to wash stuff off. It did wonders for hard to get to recesses and fine gaps. Again I didn't let it get near the optics in fear of damaging the lens coating.
I wore gloves during the whole process, and the thick "industrial rubber gloves" at that. These liquid cleaners will eat through the thin surgical ones, and I don't want to leave them on my skin for long.
The complete overkill solution (but guaranteed to work):
Aircraft Remover
Pressure washer
Just keep the aircraft remover away from anything plastic or rubber.
Mostenbockers works real well. It won't damage glass or plastics. You can get it a Lowes or Home Depot.
I sprayed down my optic with Mostenbockers wrapped it in an old piece of t-shirt then sprayed it down again. Until it was soaked and let it stand 30 min.
Unwrap, spray down again, a little elbow grease with a toothbrush and you're done.
Acetone is the only acceptable method for doing this. It will remove almost any paint and removes spray paint easily.
Water based paint removers will rust your gun.
Aerosol carburetor/brake clean or degreaser condenses and rusts your gun.
MEK will remove the gray dry lube from the inside of your upper receiver and is not acceptable.
FromMyColdDeadHand
08-20-11, 01:16
MEK will remove the gray dry lube from the inside of your upper receiver and is not acceptable.
MEK and acetone are chemical kissing cousins. What dry lube are you talking about? Acetone should be the better solvent compared to MEK, it is just so fast evaporating that unless you have some way of keeping it from evaporating, the MEK may be easier to use. Nitrile gloves, a ORGANIC VAPOR rated cartridges for the mask and glasses are probably the best way to go if you are going to do it alot. Ventilated area away from pilot lights a must.
Anyone ever call Krylon or Rustoleum and ask them?
MEK and acetone are chemical kissing cousins. What dry lube are you talking about?
The gray dry lube that is applied as a coating to the inside of a mil spec upper receiver.
Learner315
08-20-11, 08:41
I work in a factory as a painter, we do industrial and forage equipment, we don't use straight MEK anymore:(. But we do use Dupont 3812S enamel reducer. That works good on going back and removing the aerosol paint some one else tried as a touch up and now looks worse that the original "defect" you had to fix. Do watch it on pastic though. some plastic are ok, but not all. 3812S is a little less harsh than MEK, but for aerosol it works pretty good. Hope that helps someone. Defiantly use in a well ventilated space and use rubber glove. We Painters love our job, we feel better all the time....:D.
mkmckinley
08-20-11, 08:52
The gray dry lube that is applied as a coating to the inside of a mil spec upper receiver.
Do you have any more details on this and what the dry lube is made of? I've never heard of such a thing. Also, how many cycles is it supposed to last?
Heavy Metal
08-20-11, 11:27
Do you have any more details on this and what the dry lube is made of? I've never heard of such a thing. Also, how many cycles is it supposed to last?
Moly Disulfide.
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