View Full Version : Removing Duracoat From Polymer Frames?
Hey guys,
Quick question.
Anyone have a good method of removing duracoat from polymer frames without using a blast cabinet? I dont have access to those items.
Im not really too interested in experimentation with random solvents as i will probably end up with a melted Firearm. :)
Unless you use fire, it is not going to melt with today's paint (laquers, enamels, and epoxies) removers. Jasco makes a good paint remover that will work on this kind of coating. Home Depot and Lowes have similar products. It should say "removes epoxies" to get best results. Follow instructions on can. Use plastic bristle brush (not too stiff) and hot soapy water to remove residue. I believe there is another thread on this, but I can't figure out how to use the search. If that worries you, laquer thinner is aggressive, and with some patience and a bunch of soft towels, it will get it off. Medium to hard tooth brushes work well. Do not use water with the laquer thinner method until it is completely removed. Gunk hand cleaner works extremely well to do a final cleaning of the bare polymer.
Harrell,
No disrespect meant but how sure are we about this?
I cant exactly experiment with different solvents because if something goes wrong im screwed.
I do not believe the small parts, ie the frame takedown tool and the backstraps are made from the same polymers so experimenting on these "disposable" parts so to speak is impossible.
This is a try it once and get it right kind of thing lol.
These chemicals are designed to eat paint, not plastic. Gas cans are made of plastic, and if you saturate a cloth with gas and put it on the hood of your car, it will eventually soften the paint if the cloth stays wet, but it never softens the plastic. Same principle applies. And yes, I am sure, not in an arrogant way, but by experience.
Disassemble everything you can from the pistol. If you are concerned, and it ok to be, do a small section at a time. Do not let the remover sit on the polymer longer than necessary to soften the paint. Use the tooth brushes to agitate the softened paint and rinse with warm, soapy water. Dry the water before doing another section. Stay away from the thinner method. It likely will aggravate you and cause you to use some expletetives. The stuff these guns are made of is way tougher than you think it is. Even the small parts.
These chemicals are designed to eat paint, not plastic. Gas cans are made of plastic, and if you saturate a cloth with gas and put it on the hood of your car, it will eventually soften the paint if the cloth stays wet, but it never softens the plastic. Same principle applies. And yes, I am sure, not in an arrogant way, but by experience.
Disassemble everything you can from the pistol. If you are concerned, and it ok to be, do a small section at a time. Do not let the remover sit on the polymer longer than necessary to soften the paint. Use the tooth brushes to agitate the softened paint and rinse with warm, soapy water. Dry the water before doing another section. Stay away from the thinner method. It likely will aggravate you and cause you to use some expletetives. The stuff these guns are made of is way tougher than you think it is. Even the small parts.
Harrell,
Thanks for the reply, i do appreciate it and there was never any thought that you were being arrogant on my end so dont sweat that.
I appreciate knowledgeable advice based upon first hand experience so for that i thank you.
Im going to document the process and post a pictorial review when its all said and done.
Harrell,
Thanks for the reply, i do appreciate it and there was never any thought that you were being arrogant on my end so dont sweat that.
I appreciate knowledgeable advice based upon first hand experience so for that i thank you.
Im going to document the process and post a pictorial review when its all said and done.
Never crossed my mind (arrogant thing). I realize how hard it is at times to take advice from someone you don't know, and it is wise to be sure. It is what I like about this forum. A lot of these guys have been or are in the trenches everyday. You may have to take a bashing or two (also by experience), but you will usually find the right answer here. I know too many gun guys who read or hear something one time and it is gospel. Kinda like a lot of Libs, but that is another story.
It is a messy process. Be patient. Good luck.
1_click_off
12-04-10, 22:50
You would be amazed at what a pressure washer will do to painted surfaces. I have striped paint off of several things with one. Never a gun though. I would think it would work if you can just get it to start to peel you should be able to blow the paint off. I would shoot the inside of the backstrap to see if it will cut into the gun first.
...I cant exactly experiment with different solvents because if something goes wrong im screwed.
.....
===========================
I'd dab a bit inside the mag well and let it sit a minute or so to see how it affects the plastic. Then, let it sit for a few minutes or more until you're comfortable.
I had a friend, Bert, that owned a furniture stripping business. Some guy came in with a fancy carved chair that he wanted stripped. Bert looked at it and then told the guy it was molded plastic. The guy got all cocky, saying "he's been dealing with fine furniture for 30-years and he knew the difference between wood and plastic. To just strip the chair." He then asked Bert how long before he could pick it up. Bert told him if he would wait, he'd do it right now. Bert put the chair in the shallow vat he had and pumped stripper over it; then just watched the chair "melt" into a big glob. He then told the guy, "If you can wait a minute, I'll go get a shovel, so I can put your fine furniture in a bucket, if that'll work for you."
Can't be too careful...
.
Don Robison
12-04-10, 23:48
===========================
I'd dab a bit inside the mag well and let it sit a minute or so to see how it affects the plastic. Then, let it sit for a few minutes or more until you're comfortable.
I had a friend, Bert, that owned a furniture stripping business. Some guy came in with a fancy carved chair that he wanted stripped. Bert looked at it and then told the guy it was molded plastic. The guy got all cocky, saying "he's been dealing with fine furniture for 30-years and he knew the difference between wood and plastic. To just strip the chair." He then asked Bert how long before he could pick it up. Bert told him if he would wait, he'd do it right now. Bert put the chair in the shallow vat he had and pumped stripper over it; then just watched the chair "melt" into a big glob. He then told the guy, "If you can wait a minute, I'll go get a shovel, so I can put your fine furniture in a bucket, if that'll work for you."
Can't be too careful...
.
That's funny.
Off topic but it reminds of a family friend who owned a body shop in the 60'-70's he was slow but very good. A guy demanded his 57 Chevy be done today because he knew it didn't take that long; Charlie told him he could pick it up in 2 hours. The guy found it in the parking lot fully painted; windows, bumpers, tires, he didn't tape a thing.
mikeross506
12-08-10, 21:08
Has anyone Acetone? I've used it for years to clean painted lettering off plastic composite decking. It worked great.
Go to an automotive paint store ONLY! Theres severl brands that make a plastic safe stripper. I use the on bumpers sometimes (I own a body shop and DuraCoat), takes any paint off but doesnt touch the base plastic....
Google "bumper stripper"
http://www.urethanesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=URE&Product_Code=1383-A&Category_Code=
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=SEM+77713
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=45
These are just a few I have used on plastics with great results. Ive also used them on carbon fiber. With any of these make sure to rinse the stripper off AS SOON AS ITS DONE. Plastic safe or not, dont let this stuff sit...
Has anyone Acetone? I've used it for years to clean painted lettering off plastic composite decking. It worked great.
DuraCoat is a two part paint in that it has a base and a hardner. It is very similar to epoxy. It is designed to withstand all but the most aggressive solvents. For optimal results, you need a chemical designed to break down epoxy. Acetone may do it, but with a lot of rubbing, and you are guaranteed to get frustrated with this process. You can take paint off of a rubber tire and not hurt the tire with this paint remover. This comes with 30 yrs exp. in the auto industry. DuraCoat, in my opinion, is not even the best paint you can get for your gun, though it is good. Also, if you can paint something with a can of paint from WalMart, you can DuraCoat your gun. There is a ton of literature on line about DuraCoat products and how to do it yourself.
Go to an automotive paint store ONLY! Theres severl brands that make a plastic safe stripper. I use the on bumpers sometimes (I own a body shop and DuraCoat), takes any paint off but doesnt touch the base plastic....
Google "bumper stripper"
http://www.urethanesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=URE&Product_Code=1383-A&Category_Code=
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=SEM+77713
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=45
These are just a few I have used on plastics with great results. Ive also used them on carbon fiber. With any of these make sure to rinse the stripper off AS SOON AS ITS DONE. Plastic safe or not, dont let this stuff sit...
We must have posted at the same time because I would not have posted if I had seen this post. This is very good information.
Good to go guys.
Duracoat is removed. I will post pictures of the finished product over the next few days.
My only gripe is that the plastic looks "frosted" instead of matte. Any clue why this is? Perhaps its FDE residue from the duracoat or the stripper ate just a little bit of the plastic?
Duracoat comes off in sheets when stripped. Dont use anything that you will have to scrub the paint off. This WILL damage the finish on the plastic when done. Do some research on plastic strippers and the right one will take the paint off in huge sheets (almost in one piece) and not have to scrub or do anything but rinse it off with a hose....
Good to go guys.
Duracoat is removed. I will post pictures of the finished product over the next few days.
My only gripe is that the plastic looks "frosted" instead of matte. Any clue why this is? Perhaps its FDE residue from the duracoat or the stripper ate just a little bit of the plastic?
Yea, let's see it when you can. Sounds like residue. Can you remove some of this "frost" with your fingernail?
Good to go guys.
Duracoat is removed. I will post pictures of the finished product over the next few days.
My only gripe is that the plastic looks "frosted" instead of matte. Any clue why this is? Perhaps its FDE residue from the duracoat or the stripper ate just a little bit of the plastic?
What ever came of the "frost" you were talking about? Was it something that you got off or is it still there?
Its something that i got off although it does look a little different than normal but thankfully, this covered it all up. :)
I wanted to say thanks for all of the help guys, it turned out great although i probably wont be using what i used if i have to do this again. I didnt really HAVE to scrub the duracoat off as it did tend to bubble up and flake off but it was significantly quicker when i used a toothbruth to accelerate the process. Im thinking the white frosting may have been from the use of the toothbrush.
Harrel, you're the man, thank you!
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5729/cdimpstippling11of1.jpg
Sweet! I am happy it turned out well, especially since I would hate to have to buy it if I told you how to mess it up.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.