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Spiffums
12-05-10, 19:35
I was reading a thread about people sealing their primers on reloads. Most use clear nail polish. I wondered why many people used el cheapo nail polish to ID different loads. Say red for a hotter charged load or blue for a Duty like training round.

michael word
12-05-10, 20:33
I tried using nail polish to mark rounds in the past. I used it to fill the headstamp and the area around the primer. I stopped after seeing how much build up was on the bolt face and in the chamber after only a few rounds, seemed like the paint just all broke loose from the case and went everywhere. I was using this in a lever action rifle, so I assume using it in a semi-auto firearm will be worse. I have since changed to using a sharpie to mark rounds, stays put and is easily cleaned off.

ucrt
12-05-10, 20:52
I think fingernail polish, as a sealer, is too thick and too hard to be a good sealer. MidwayUSA sells a Primer/Bullet Sealant. (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=954332)

As for marking rounds, I found colored Sharpies work better than black Sharpies. I've have done a lot with red and blue. They will all rub off but the colors hold up better.

.

Spiffums
12-06-10, 07:52
I wonder if you can thin out nail polish? Not thinking about doing this to reloads just a thought that was rattling around in my head.

120mm
12-06-10, 08:46
I wonder if you can thin out nail polish? Not thinking about doing this to reloads just a thought that was rattling around in my head.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-nail-polish-thinner.htm

R1pper
12-06-10, 12:53
I found colored Sharpies work better than black Sharpies. I've have done a lot with red and blue. They will all rub off but the colors hold up better.


Use the "industrial strenght" sharpie. I found that works the best.

mike_556
12-06-10, 13:50
Wasn't George and Roy's (I think it was) custom primer sealant revealed to be either clear nail polish or nail strengthener??

markm
12-06-10, 17:55
As for marking rounds, I found colored Sharpies work better than black Sharpies. I've have done a lot with red and blue. They will all rub off but the colors hold up better.


Thats what I use. I mark bands on the case walls so I can ID the round from any angle... on the ground, in a mag, etc.

Marking brass makes brass sorting infinitely easier when you end up with a whole bunch of brass in one bag.

Ttwwaack
12-24-10, 04:30
The only thing I seal is my hunting ammo. It gets alittle wet outside here and up in AK so I use what ever flavor of the month is on sale, thin with nail polish remover or acetone and start dabbing.

Another use for it is an old friend had some action work done on a model 19 and the spring was alittle weak for magnum/hard primers. A little dab on the primer to build the surface alittle and it was reliable again.

120mm
12-24-10, 11:58
Anyone who runs recent manufacture .50 cal will notice the multi-colored primers. Mainly because they use overruns of nail polish for the sealant.

Have a nice day...

m4fun
12-24-10, 12:09
I see lots of folks in the high powered comp world id their brass this way. Not used as a sealer, just for marking brass. Correlating components, charges, when made, log how many reloads have taken place, etc.

I do not like sealers and agree, once you see how much crap it gathers under the extractor in the bolt you will understand. Old Wolf or S&B were notorious for this.

1_click_off
12-24-10, 21:23
Anyone who runs recent manufacture .50 cal will notice the multi-colored primers. Mainly because they use overruns of nail polish for the sealant.

Have a nice day...

Yep, I have some purple and some red and I think the last box I shot was green.

Raven Armament
12-25-10, 00:44
I have a hard time believing that a properly seated primer (or properly seated bullet for that matter) is not water tight at reasonable depths. Even in a hunting situation with rain or snow, there is no pressure induced like there is submerged in water. If you get water into the powder chamber via tolerance in the primer pocket, your primers or pockets are improperly sized or your primers aren't properly seated. When I seat a primer I can blow compressed air into the case mouth and no air escapes from the seated primer. Am I missing something here?

markm
12-25-10, 18:34
You're right, Raven.

1_click_off
12-26-10, 22:37
I have a hard time believing that a properly seated primer (or properly seated bullet for that matter) is not water tight at reasonable depths. Even in a hunting situation with rain or snow, there is no pressure induced like there is submerged in water. If you get water into the powder chamber via tolerance in the primer pocket, your primers or pockets are improperly sized or your primers aren't properly seated. When I seat a primer I can blow compressed air into the case mouth and no air escapes from the seated primer. Am I missing something here?

I would agree as far as water, but oil might be a bit different. With the capilary action of some oils, the sealant would offer some protection.

Pain
12-27-10, 21:28
I mark them with a magic marker. I then know the case condition and how many times that case has been fired.

markm
12-27-10, 21:40
I would agree as far as water, but oil might be a bit different. With the capilary action of some oils, the sealant would offer some protection.

I just don't oil my ammo. :confused:

1_click_off
12-28-10, 10:16
I just don't oil my ammo. :confused:

I find it makes my bullets spin more freely down the barrel, and keeps cases rolling resistance on each other down when the rounds are being loaded or shot from the mags, it also keeps corrosion from forming on the ammo when stored in the vehicle.


No I don't oil my ammo, thinking more of an oops:eek: or an overlubed firearm or mag.

1

Raven Armament
12-28-10, 10:36
I find it makes my bullets spin more freely down the barrel
I doubt you can prove this beyond untested theory.

1_click_off
12-28-10, 12:44
I doubt you can prove this beyond untested theory.

me too!