View Full Version : S&W lock or not
I have a S&W 357 M&P revolver with lock and I see that you can get it now without . so would sell and get the new one ?
John_Wayne777
12-10-10, 15:05
Personally I would just neuter the lock rather than taking the financial hit of buying a new gun.
You do know you can just take the lock out, right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM
Personally I would just neuter the lock rather than taking the financial hit of buying a new gun.
That. I'd also buy an additional one, without the lock, as soon as I could afford it, because I like to have at least two of each, if I intend to use them for carry.
BTW, JW777, I like the sig line. Not many people know about "Jelly" Bryce.
I just ignore the lock. I didn 't ask for it, and I'd just as soon it wasn't there, but I have not experienced any issues related to it. It's just one more of a million things that could, but are unlikely to, go wrong.
Alpha Sierra
12-10-10, 15:35
BTW, JW777, I like the sig line. Not many people know about "Jelly" Bryce.
+1
He was a cold-blooded bad ass.
but I have not experienced any issues related to it. It's just one more of a million things that could, but are unlikely to, go wrong.
There are documented cases of malfunctions occuring due to the S&W lock. Try a search on here and you'll find several instances. Personally, I would never purchase one with a lock.
Dos Cylindros
12-10-10, 16:25
I have heard alot of second, third and fourth hand stories about the lock failing but have never seen it or met someone who actually had it fail. I doubt it would be a big issue (mine never has been) but you can buy a drop in plug to fill the hole once you remove the safety lock. Don't waste time and money selling your current and buying a new one.
There are documented cases of malfunctions occuring due to the S&W lock. Try a search on here and you'll find several instances...
There are documented cases of inert primers, factory squib loads, broken firing pins, broken main springs, shooters missing their target, sudden heart attacks, bad guys not stopping after being shot, and about a million other events that potentially could occur. I have an M&P 340 and a 686 with internal locks. I have more confidence in them than I do in my own abilities. If the lock was an issue for me, I'd avoid guns with locks. It isn't, so I don't. Personal choice.
brushy bill
12-10-10, 21:55
There are documented cases of malfunctions occuring due to the S&W lock. Try a search on here and you'll find several instances. Personally, I would never purchase one with a lock.
+1.
Personal choice, but would not consider S&W w/lock
LandCruiser
12-11-10, 22:26
Lock=Insanity. You don't want to be insane, do you? (think in sarcastic tone)
The lock is, at best, worthless.
If 1/4 of the Errornet reports are true regarding lock problems - that's still WAY too many. So - I purchased and installed "the Plug" (do a search on the S&W forum for the address of the guy who makes them). It does away with both the lock, and the hole that is left behind.
I am not into gunsmithing much - and it only took me 15 minutes to install it on my model 22 .45 revolver. If I ever sell it (doubtful:) - I can always re-install the infernal lock:)
john
When I still lived in MI and was ROing on a regular basis, I saw 3 lock failures at the range over the last year I was there. One airweight 38 snub shooting +P, one scandium 357 snub shooting hot 357 handloads, and one 4" or 5" .44 mag shooting Magtech softpoints.
There are also numerous first hand reports of failure on the internet, and a ton of people flipping the f&#^ out with no information.
If I was in your position, I would remove the lock instead of trading the locked model for a no-lock model due to cost.
I have heard alot of second, third and fourth hand stories about the lock failing but have never seen it or met someone who actually had it fail.
I looked but can't find it, but there's a lengthy S&W lock thread from the past in which several members posted personal experiences with problems. The lock activations have occurred enough, and have sufficient factual and evidence basis to support the notion, that such locks should be avoided in guns used for life support.
Personally I would just neuter the lock rather than taking the financial hit of buying a new gun.
Agreed. Unless fat with cash, or unless I got a really good trade in deal, I'd neuter rather than buy new.
SeriousStudent
12-12-10, 20:39
IIRC, our very own John_Wayne777 was one of those persons. I think he had an issue with a .22 caliber J-frame locking up.
And I did what others have done. I bought one of those small stainless steel plugs on one of the Smith and Wesson forums, and replace the lock with it. That was on a 642, and it shoots just fine with the plug. It was about a one-hour job, you can find the videos on Youtube.
Alpha Sierra
12-12-10, 20:54
If you don't want to deal with completely removing all of the lock parts, or if you want to disable the lock ASAP while you wait for the parts to plug it, you can just remove the lock arm (the flag that pops up when you turn the key) and the lock arm return spring.
Just remove the sideplate and hammer to get to them. Once you remove them, reinstall the hammer and sideplate and no matter what happens your gun will not lock up either by design or by accident.
The rare cases that I have heard of lock failure it has been a scandium frame as well as the 44mag. You can always take the lock out if you are worried about it, but it is a very rare occurrence.
If it were me I would sell it and buy a used 357. I think the older ones were better made. I have a older 686 with a 4in barrel and it is a well made revolver, better then the newer ones.
It depends how much money you want to spend and what you are looking for. There is always the sp101. A sp101
with some custom work and a bobbed hammer is a very nice carry gun!
Personally, I would not rely on a S&W with lock for defense use. While the likelihood of the gun jamming due to a failure of the lock/lock spring is small, without a lock, the chances of the gun jamming due to failure of the lock mechanism/spring is ZERO!
There are already enough things that can go wrong during a defense situation without willingly accepting yet another potential for failure when you don't HAVE to. So, NO lock for me. That's my personal choice and YMMV.
I just ignore the lock. I didn 't ask for it, and I'd just as soon it wasn't there, but I have not experienced any issues related to it. It's just one more of a million things that could, but are unlikely to, go wrong
+1
I have heard alot of second, third and fourth hand stories about the lock failing but have never seen it or met someone who actually had it fail.
+100
Powder_Burn
12-13-10, 11:52
I had the lock partially engage while shooting 125gr Cor-Bon's in a 360PD. During the same range session, some bullets jumped crimp and locked up the cylinder as well. So much for revolvers being infallible!
John_Wayne777
12-13-10, 12:31
IIRC, our very own John_Wayne777 was one of those persons. I think he had an issue with a .22 caliber J-frame locking up.
Indeed. I have a 317 that I purchased within the last year. I was doing a marathon range session involving firing a lot of rounds through the revolver and I ended up with an engagement of the locking mechanism. The flag was partially raised and the hammer would not move.
The lawyer lock on a S&W revolver is on my NFE list on a carry gun. I've removed the lock mechanism from my 317.
The rare cases that I have heard of lock failure it has been a scandium frame as well as the 44mag.
If you go to the Smith & Wesson forums you'll see credible reports involving a much wider range of revolvers. I've seen all-steel J frames mentioned.
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