What's the trick for installing rail sections on Troy Extreme Rail?

[ra2bach]

What's the trick for installing rail sections on Troy Extreme Rail?

I'm about ready to throw in the towel and either run it slick, or revert back to generous quantities of 100 mph tape.

am I the only one with this trouble? :(

[Stik]

I've personally found is it much easier to take note of the gas block location and where you want your accessory rails located, then take the tube off the reciever/barrel nut. It will make it much easier with it off. Otherwise, if you leave it on, you can try to hold the backing in place with a screwdriver, if you can get it in the general location you want it to be in. Good luck, already been there, done that..

[Whootsinator]

I've heard others recommend just dropping the backer down past the gas block and then rattling it around until it's roughly where you want it, then holding it there with a screwdriver or something from outside the tube, then installing the outter rail portion.

No personal experience here.

[maxniman]

I've heard others recommend just dropping the backer down past the gas block and then rattling it around until it's roughly where you want it, then holding it there with a screwdriver or something from outside the tube, then installing the outter rail portion.

No personal experience here.

that is pretty much what I did - then i just started one hex screw in to place to hold it enough to take the screwdriver out and line up the second set screw

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/maxniman/DSC05027s2.jpg

[Careby]

One of the tricks is that later versions ship with slightly longer screws. I have an early one which came with screws that weren't long enough to engage the backing bar/plate. I ended up using a couple of screws from a later one, but I'd guess they would (or should) probably send screws on request.

[dennisuello]

throw it down past the gas block, then using a small screwdriver maneuver it into desired location. i've done it many times. seems super easy for me.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1vxvP2NBwEo/TNODbhSR3RI/AAAAAAAAC9Q/YCTaqMVKiVU/s800/OL046130.jpg

[ra2bach]

I tried all that... along with some pretty spicy language, but nothing seems to work...

so, let me ask a question - it seems obvious (to me) that the ridge in the backing plate should go into the recess in the rail and the flat surface should face inward but my problem is the screws don't seem to be long enough - am I doing it wrong?

:suicide:

[shootist~]

I tried all that... along with some pretty spicy language, but nothing seems to work...

so, let me ask a question - it seems obvious (to me) that the ridge in the backing plate should go into the recess in the rail and the flat surface should face inward but my problem is the screws don't seem to be long enough - am I doing it wrong?

:suicide:

You are doing it correctly.

One of my screws from a new/unmounted Troy measures .513".
One from a recently removed Troy/VTAC rail measures .447".

Maybe measure and see if yours appear non standard?

ETA: I've only added one rail section since the VTAC Extreme was mounted. Got lucky and it went together without much fuss.

[MrSypher]

Wow, is it really that difficult to put the rails on where you need them? It seems to me that something isn't right. I've always had no problems installing anything Troy. G'luck brutha, wish I could give sum insight..

[iwouldntknow]

I tried all that... along with some pretty spicy language, but nothing seems to work...

so, let me ask a question - it seems obvious (to me) that the ridge in the backing plate should go into the recess in the rail and the flat surface should face inward but my problem is the screws don't seem to be long enough - am I doing it wrong?

:suicide:

I don't think the 4 inch rails are mountable in the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions. I wanted to do that with my TROY/VTac, and quickly found out I couldn't.

[HeavyDuty]

I put a piece of double sticky tape on a 24" long dowel to hold the backer in place - much easier than any other way I've tried.

[jjw]

12" medical forceps at a medical supply

works like a charm

use them all the time. goes right past the gas block holds the back piece and i """"GENTLY"""" put in the screw


good luck

[ra2bach]

Ok, thanks to all who replied. I mesaured the screws and they are .454 OAL and .354 threaded shank. definitely seem too short to mount with the raised section of the plate against the rail.

I was able to get the rail section attached by putting the flat side against the rail and using a hex key completely through the next row of holes and turning it like a cam to apply pressure to hold the plate in place. this only required three hands rather than two sets of three hands previously... :sarcastic:

but now... after going through all that trouble of getting the rail chunk attached, I mounted it in the 6 o' for a Magpul RVG, I'm not digging it.

so I'm just gonna pull it all off and run it slick again... :rolleyes:

[Byron]

I just removed the tube from the weapon, installed the rail sections I wanted, then screwed the tube on again.

[ra2bach]

thanks... I tried that... but if you read one post above yours, you'll see I probably had the wrong/too short screws. I got it to work but not as designed.

but no worries, I don't like anything other than a FSP on this HG anyway...

[The_Hammer_Man]

Que Tips,,,


I use que tips to hold that idiot backer plate in position on Troy and VTAC style tubes. I use two of them. A couple of teryaki skewers would do the job too.

also making sure you're using the correct screws seems to help too :)

[scootle]

I put a piece of double sticky tape on a 24" long dowel to hold the backer in place - much easier than any other way I've tried.

This seems like a quick trick to try first. I too have been staring at my TRX wondering how I'm going to move the rail backer plates around the inside without resorting to pulling the entire tube off the rifle. Color me lazy. :sarcastic:

I'm going to test out the Magpul AFG2 on the 4" rail... has anyone had issues with that? I know it blocks off the QD mounting hole, but I'll live... I can get a Picatinny QD stud to mount elsewhere closer to the center of the rifle. The AFG2 seems like it'll overhand one end of the rail or the other though -- I imagine that isn't a real problem?

Thanks.

[ryu_sekai]

I don't think the 4 inch rails are mountable in the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions. I wanted to do that with my TROY/VTac, and quickly found out I couldn't.

It's possible you just have to tureen the backer upside down with flat surface the outside.

[Nevermiss]

I've got this rail inbound for a 300 BLK build and I plant to add a Gear Sector light mount and possibly a VFG2 on the bottom, so all of this information is very helpful. Thanks!