View Full Version : Need Advice, which Noveske
I am considering buying an AR, and I am not an expert on ARs. But I did do lots of research and reading threads so after some thought my decision came down to buying a 16in N4 light Recce.
Now the two that I have been trying to decide on were either the Light Recce Basic or the Light Recce FSR. I'm just not sure as to what is the $400+ difference in the two? Is it just the fact that one has the rail and the other does not? There is quite a big jump in price difference between the Light Recce Basic and the others.
I am only planning to put some kind of optic on the gun so I don't really need the rails.
Does the Light Recce Basic have any issues the other ones do not?
I've been looking all over for an answer to my question but couldn't find it, so sorry if it was already posted somewhere before.
Thanks
Just visited their site to check out both. The FSR also comes with a Vltor MUR upper on top of the rail, hence, the big price jump.
Do I understand correctly that this is going to be your first AR? That case, I would go with the basic. It allows you more options as you go. It's always a good idea to shoot through a basic config first and then decide on changing parts as you evolve. Spend the difference on ammo.
My 1st current AR is N4 Lo-Pro.
was expensive, but i was happy. That's what counts.
Love the SWS rail design too.
Yes this would be my first AR. I've been jumping back and forth between buying one or not. Now for the MUR upper, what is the difference in it apart from the one that comes with the basic?
Thanks for the replies guys
Just to add a Noveske model you may have missed, I highly recommend checking out their VTAC models (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lr-vtac&cat=154&page=1&search=&since=&status=). The VTAC 16" carbine uses the same cold hammer forged 16" Recce barrel as the other models you mentioned. The SWS handguard is well crafted but is on the heavy side, and if you're not planning on using the rails then why add the weight? The Troy/VTAC handguards are very lightweight. The VTAC rifle is also a nice package, coming with a VTAC sling and light mount.
Yes this would be my first AR. I've been jumping back and forth between buying one or not. Now for the MUR upper, what is the difference in it apart from the one that comes with the basic?
Thanks for the replies guys
if you go their web site, it tell you every detail you need to know.
higher price ones have forged upper.
Just to add a Noveske model you may have missed, I highly recommend checking out their VTAC models (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lr-vtac&cat=154&page=1&search=&since=&status=). The VTAC 16" carbine uses the same cold hammer forged 16" Recce barrel as the other models you mentioned. The SWS handguard is well crafted but is on the heavy side, and if you're not planning on using the rails then why add the weight? The Troy/VTAC handguards are very lightweight. The VTAC rifle is also a nice package, coming with a VTAC sling and light mount.
This is what I would suggest after building an 18" with a Troy/VTAC rail and liking the smaller diameter FF tube and lack rails where I don't need them. You will eventually want the ability to mount a light and a sling pretty much completes the whole package.
I have a Light Reece Basic and will likely add a Troy or VTAC TRX at some point. The difficult choice for me is whether or not to leave the standard FSB or shave it and go with a longer rail. I run an Aimpoint on the Reece and like the fixed FSB for a fail-safe and reliable solution should the RD fail.
Just to add a Noveske model you may have missed, I highly recommend checking out their VTAC models (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lr-vtac&cat=154&page=1&search=&since=&status=). The VTAC 16" carbine uses the same cold hammer forged 16" Recce barrel as the other models you mentioned. The SWS handguard is well crafted but is on the heavy side, and if you're not planning on using the rails then why add the weight? The Troy/VTAC handguards are very lightweight. The VTAC rifle is also a nice package, coming with a VTAC sling and light mount.
+1. I like the JP VTAC, Troy VTAC, Troy TRX Extreme battlerails, and now Samson is also making one like this.
I have visited their website and I read up on the models. I did take a look at the VTAC, and it looks like a nice rifle. However I think I will be going with the Basic model. It's about 400 to 500$s cheaper and as you pointed out, it is going to be my first AR so it'l be better for me to just start with something simple and add on whatever I feel necessary as I get more of a feel for the gun. I might give them a call too, I hear they have good service and are helpful. Now I just have to make some room in my wallet if you know what I mean.
Thanks guys you've been a lot help!
When I was looking at Noveskes, I contemplated the Basic too, but ultimately there was just too much stuff I needed to mount (grip, two different lights, and QD sling mount) and I wanted the barrel to be free-floating.
I bought the Light Recce Basic w/VIS and have been very pleased, although I'm not sure I wouldn't go with the LR Basic FSR if I were doing it again. I like the Noveske rail system (SWS).
Speaking of the free floating barrel, what exactly is the advantage to it as opposed to the non free floating? If you don't mind me asking
Sorry I looked on their website and I know that the railed models are free floated, but it did not say what the advantage of that is.
I keep hearing people talk about free floated barrels on AR's like it's a good thing, I just don't know why
The_Hammer_Man
12-15-10, 19:45
Almost any pressure applied to normal AR-15 handguards gets transmitted to the barrel. What that means is that if you pull down/left you barrel will tend to do the same.
A free float tube solves this.. the only real problem with the AR platform, rather nicely.
Lots of tube options on the market now. Go light. You'll hate yourself later if you don't :)
Free floating handguards do not touch the barrel, which improves accuracy. It also means the barrel isn't affected by affixing accessories to the handguard or other stresses (such as sling tension or bracing the handguard against a barricade).
The theoretical advantage of a free-floated barrel is that as it expands when it gets hot, and it does get hot, it won't be asymmetrically tethered by the handguard and change the POI. Probably not that big a deal for a combat weapon, but it also meant I didn't have to attach my sling to the barrel or FSB.
I see, it makes sense now. I think I will end up going for a free float barrel in the future, but to start with I think the basic one will be fine.
As far as the uppers go, Is it as simple as just a drop in fit? Or is there some machining work required?. Lets say later on I would like to have the 18" stainless spr, can I simply just buy the upper they sell and swap out the upper on the basic?
Sorry again for all the questions
As a noob to ARs, you might consider reading the threads in the knowledge base and learning what you can before your ask your questions:
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=7009
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=7355
That said, I have a 14.5" N4 Light Carbine. I bought it before mid-length gas systems were common. If I was doing it today I would still get a 14.5", but with the mid-length gas system.
Unfortunately, I don't believe Noveske make one, at least they didn't last time I looked. That means today I would either go with a 16" Noveske middy, or a BMC 14.5" middy, probably the BMC.
The rail is worth $300 and the VLTOR upper is worth an extra $120.
Just to add a Noveske model you may have missed, I highly recommend checking out their VTAC models (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lr-vtac&cat=154&page=1&search=&since=&status=). The VTAC 16" carbine uses the same cold hammer forged 16" Recce barrel as the other models you mentioned. The SWS handguard is well crafted but is on the heavy side, and if you're not planning on using the rails then why add the weight? The Troy/VTAC handguards are very lightweight. The VTAC rifle is also a nice package, coming with a VTAC sling and light mount.
I second this, coming from a guy that has one I love mine!. I have 3 Noveskes and I cannot seem to get enough of them! Check out the vtac version, if alittle to expensive go with the n4 basic, they are great too...
Yeah, I did check them out. They do look very nice, but I think at $1900 I am going to go with the Basic for a little less
mkmckinley
12-18-10, 21:09
Depending on what you're looking for. You could get into an N4 basic and figure out the rail thing when you get a little more money. If you want it for serious use you're going to want a light and a sling but you don't necessarily need a rail for that. You could always get the Magpul handguards and mount a light on that. It won't be free floated but you might not need that; 90% of us really don't. The important thing is you're getting a great barrel and rifle built with attention to detail.
The VTAC version is pretty great.
Depending on what you're looking for. You could get into an N4 basic and figure out the rail thing when you get a little more money. If you want it for serious use you're going to want a light and a sling but you don't necessarily need a rail for that. You could always get the Magpul handguards and mount a light on that. It won't be free floated but you might not need that; 90% of us really don't. The important thing is you're getting a great barrel and rifle built with attention to detail.
The VTAC version is pretty great.
I'd certainly consider the N4 MOE (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lc-moe&cat=137&page=1&search=&since=&status=)...surprised I don't see a midlength MOE option. I bet a call to Noveske would sort that out...
Yeah I did look at it, but the thing about the 14.5" is that the FH would have to be pinned. I don't really like the idea of having a fixed muzzle device. I mean if I didn't live in Cali then I would just go ahead and get the tax stamp for sbr. But unfortunately sbr's are a no no in Cali unless you are LEO. Or if it's a C&R which this certainly is not. I will probably be giving them a call tuesday though, so who knows maybe they will convince me. Or I can see if they would put the MOE grip/stock onto the 16"?
mkmckinley
12-19-10, 03:25
I think 16" midlength is probably a good idea, wish I had gone that route myself.
I just assembled a 16" basic moe myself!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/mrwilmoth/210373_10150247732785797_709855796_9128377_8108904_o.jpg
awesome rifle!
I just assembled a 16" basic moe myself!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/mrwilmoth/210373_10150247732785797_709855796_9128377_8108904_o.jpg
awesome rifle!
very nice, I love it!!!!
userids
Nice, simple and clean. Good on you.
This would be a great first rifle. Wish I had went this route when I purchased my first one.
I just assembled a 16" basic moe myself!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/mrwilmoth/210373_10150247732785797_709855796_9128377_8108904_o.jpg
awesome rifle!
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