550 Am I ordering everything needed for 9mm/40/45ACP?

[1_click_off]

I was wondering if you could "Check my cart" before I order. I only need Dillon 550 specific items as I have gotten back into reloading recently and still have all of my Grandpa's and Dad's reloading equipment. RCBS single stage, scales, dies, etc...... I got a couple reloading manuals for Christmas so I am good there. Just need to know if I am going to be able to load 9mm/40/45ACP with the items I have selected, or if I am leaving out some stuff. I am okay with only having 1 primer tube as I am going to take it slow at first and don't mind having to stop every 100 rds to fill a tube. I will add a roller handle and such later. Just want the basics to get me going now.

Here is the cart:

1 K12015 RL550B with 38super/9mm conversion kit
1 20048 550B Spare Parts
1 22051 Strong Mount
1 13606 Primer flip tray
1 201126 45ACP Conversion kit (typo should be 20126, but left because the the post below refers to it.)
2 90931 Toolhead & powder die

Parts added so far

1 13600 40S&W/10mm Powder Funnel
3 13930 Button Size #1 Spare
3 14062 Button Size#2 Needed for 40
3 14060 Button Size#3 Spare

I have heard that the 9mm and 40 S&W converson kits are interchangable but some are saying the locator buttons are different. I have read some on Brian Enos' site and am planning to order from there unless I hear of a better place. Price doesn't always mean "better". If the CS is superior, but costs a little more I am willing to spend the extra coin to get some help later on.

Thanks in advance.

1

[chadbag]

I was wondering if you could "Check my cart" before I order. I only need Dillon 550 specific items as I have gotten back into reloading recently and still have all of my Grandpa's and Dad's reloading equipment. RCBS single stage, scales, dies, etc...... I got a couple reloading manuals for Christmas so I am good there. Just need to know if I am going to be able to load 9mm/40/45ACP with the items I have selected, or if I am leaving out some stuff. I am okay with only having 1 primer tube as I am going to take it slow at first and don't mind having to stop every 100 rds to fill a tube. I will add a roller handle and such later. Just want the basics to get me going now.

Here is the cart:

1 K12015 RL550B with 38super/9mm conversion kit
1 20048 550B Spare Parts
1 22051 Strong Mount
1 13606 Primer flip tray
1 201126 45ACP Conversion kit
2 90931 Toolhead & powder die

I have heard that the 9mm and 40 S&W converson kits are interchangable but some are saying the locator buttons are different. I have read some on Brian Enos' site and am planning to order from there unless I hear of a better place. Price doesn't always mean "better". If the CS is superior, but costs a little more I am willing to spend the extra coin to get some help later on.

Thanks in advance.

1


I am not familiar with Dillon part 90931 and dillonprecision.com does not have any search results for it. Is it just a toolhead and powder die combo?

The shopping cart looks reasonable assuming the answer to my 90931 question is correct.

The 9mm and 40 s&w conversion kits are not the same. They have the same shell plate but the powder funnel and the locator buttons are different. If you want to do 40 S&W you need to buy some button #2 (3 qty) and the W powder funnel (pistol) and use the same shellplate as your 9mm kit.

Make sure you order from whomever before the end of the week as Dillon prices go up on Jan 1.

ETA: the part number for 45acp conversion kit is 20126 (not 201126). probably just an overlooked typo.
ETA #2: (and for those wondering, the XL 650 shellplate for 9mm and 40 s&w are not the same, just the 550)

[1_click_off]

The 90931 is from Brian's site. Yes, it is just the toolhead and powder die. So does the powder funnel fit inside the powder die?

You are correct, 20126. I had a typo.

[Raven Armament]

As stated above, the shellplates are the same. The powder funnel is different. The locator pins are different. However, I've loaded both on the 550 with both locator pin sizes and have never had an issue loading. I'm talking tens of thousands of rounds never had an issue. I would buy one or the other and get the different powder funnel. For small runs, I use the #3 (9mm) locator pins for . 380, 9mm, .40 S&W, and 10mm. And .223.

[chadbag]

The 90931 is from Brian's site. So does the powder funnel fit inside the powder die?

You are correct, 20126. I had a typo.

Yes, the powder funnel fits inside the powder die. It kind of "free floats" and is pushed up into the powder measure to actuate it when you push a case up into it. It also does the belling on pistols and straight walled rifles etc so you won't need your belling dies from your RCBS or whatever dies you got from your dad/grandpa.

Chad

[chadbag]

For the cost of the buttons ($4 total), I would buy the right ones so that if you do have issues you are not held up by $4 worth of parts and if you call Dillon they will help you (if you are using the wrong buttons they will tell you to fix that first).

Not worth the $4

[1_click_off]

For the cost of the buttons ($4 total), I would buy the right ones so that if you do have issues you are not held up by $4 worth of parts and if you call Dillon they will help you (if you are using the wrong buttons they will tell you to fix that first).

Not worth the $4

Added to the list. Thanks

[1_click_off]

Okay it is on the way. Brian talked me into the spare tubes 2sm/2lg and the bullet/empty case trays. That added up quick. But I like doing it, so even if I don't break even for a while it is still worth it to me (hobby). Thanks for all the help.

[Aegis]

First off the 550 is a fantastic machine!!

If you're buying from Brian's site grab the 4 pack of primer tubes, you'll be glad you did not to mention they are only a few dollars. They will save you a lot of time.

You will definitely want to buy a set of Dillon dies, trust me it will be less headaches. They are specifically made to work with the progressive press and are top notch. Keep your other dies for your single stage to work on load development, etc. Very doubtful you will pull your dies out of your 550 to load on the single stage to try out a new batch.

Good luck, if you have any other questions call Brian directly he'll square you away.

[davestarbuck]

I'd get more primer tubes myself. I've got 13 of the small primer and I'm thinking of getting more......

-dave

[WBAR]

I think you'll love your new Dillon. I have two 550Bs, one for .45ACP & the other with two toolheads: one set up for 9mm; & one for .40 S&W. While you can use any brand of dies, I would second the recommendation for Dillon dies since they make for smoother operation (larger champher at die mouth). Make sure you follow Dillon's recommendaton of SAE 30 motor oil for the ram- it works better than anything else in my experience.

[1_click_off]

I'd get more primer tubes myself. I've got 13 of the small primer and I'm thinking of getting more......

-dave

Brian talked me into the extra tubes and the bullet/empty trays to go with the strong mount.


I think you'll love your new Dillon. I have two 550Bs, one for .45ACP & the other with two toolheads: one set up for 9mm; & one for .40 S&W. While you can use any brand of dies, I would second the recommendation for Dillon dies since they make for smoother operation (larger champher at die mouth). Make sure you follow Dillon's recommendaton of SAE 30 motor oil for the ram- it works better than anything else in my experience.

I am going to have to learn the hard way on this as I already have Lee and RCBS dies, I may get the Dillon 9mm dies if I have trouble with these. I am sure the Dillon dies are better, but I need to get over the sticker shock of the machine first. Thanks for the SAE 30 tip.

[Pal]

Don't sweat those dies you have already. They will work fine. I have some Dillon dies now and can't say they are any better or easier to use compared to the RCBS. I can say that the RCBS lock ring is great to have and the Dillon dies don't have it. They have a cheesy 1" hexnut to keep from crowding the toolhead.

[davestarbuck]

Don't worry about other brand dies. I use Lee dies for everything with the exception of the .223 and 6.8 sizing dies that came with the respective Rapid Trim motors.

Check out this link; http://thegunwiki.com/apps/calconversion/

Great resource for caliber conversions ever!!!!

-dave

[1_click_off]

Thanks for all the help. I am setting the press up this weekend. My friend has a 550 and through a couple simple modifications he was able to purchase a couple 650 parts and modify a couple others so he can use a case feeder on his 5.56 reloads. I will get a list of the extra parts he had to buy and which ones he modified and post. The parts he modified were not anything on the machine itself, so of course the warrenty or any help from Dillon is out of the question for these mods, but they should not affect the press itself. I am not sure when I will get the photos and the write-up, but I will post once I get them.

1

[JasonTN]

I think you're going to love the 550. I've used RCBS, Lee, Hornady LNL AP, and finally the Dillon 550. All I can say is "WOW!!!" I just got mine two days ago and I've already loaded up 1000 .40s. I wish I would have taken everyone's advice and just started with the Dillon. Could have saved a lot of headache and money.

Best wishes

[1_click_off]

I got my 550 set up and the dies adjusted last night. It is amazing how far you can flare/bell brass without spliting it! Hope to load some rounds this weekend.

[JasonTN]

I got my 550 set up and the dies adjusted last night. It is amazing how far you can flare/bell brass without spliting it! Hope to load some rounds this weekend.

Yes, you can make a funnel out of it. You probably know this, but don't flare more than you have to. It will shorten the case life. Eventually it will lead to a split case.

[1_click_off]

Yep, the first one didn't have enough and the second one was an oops! Think I will leave that one on my bench to always remind me to take my time.

Is it really worth raising my seat and crimp die high enough I only seat the bullet and purchase a crimp die? I have never had any issues with my single stage press and using the seat/crimp die. Just looks odd wasting a station on the toolhead.

[JasonTN]

I don't think I'm qualified to tell you what to use, but I'll give you my experience.

I didn't buy the Dillon dies (yet). I'm using Lee dies. I have used the seating die to seat and crimp at the same time on a turret press in the past. Currently I'm using the seating die to seat only and a Lee factory crimp die to crimp. Do I notice a difference? Not really. Maybe there's an accuracy difference, but I haven't noticed any.

With that being said, most recommend a separate crimp die, so I use one.

[WBAR]

Another vote for separate seating & crimping. And I also use the Lee FCD. WB

[1_click_off]

Another vote for separate seating & crimping. And I also use the Lee FCD. WB

Why? I am one of those guys that like to know how everything works and the reasoning behind it. So why is it better to crimp at a seperate station? I understand that 2 processes are happening, but why is that a bad thing?

[chadbag]

Why? I am one of those guys that like to know how everything works and the reasoning behind it. So why is it better to crimp at a seperate station? I understand that 2 processes are happening, but why is that a bad thing?

It is a heck of a lot easier to set up.

Some people say it is more consistent to crimp separately. I have not tested that but I can believe it.

[1_click_off]

Got the press set up and ran a batch of 100 147Gr. Hornady XTP 9mm.
Issues:
1. Powder charge drifted from 4.5-4.8 grains HS-6

2. While changing the primer arm from the large to small, it did not line back up in the shell plate/base. I loosened the arm, set the plate down on the primer arm and re-tightened. Seating the primer on round 3 did not feel right. Again the primer arm was not lining up to the hole in the base, nor was it returning to the home position. Found this was a self induce problem when I fumbled and spilled round 2 after checking the charge. Cleaning the spilled powder up and realigned the arm. Worked for the next 97 rounds just fine.

3. Had about a 75% spent primer retention rate, a quick search in the tips and tricks section on Enos’ page I did the mandatory paper clip upgrade. No more issues.

4. Some cases would hang while entering the sizing die. I found the retaining/locator spring was pushing on the case just a little bit too hard tilting the case. Backed the spring out a little and all was good again.

So 2 issues were self induced and out of the other 2 issues, 1 was resolved and the other is just something I will need to be aware of when loading max loads.
I think it will be awhile before I am at the 500-600rds an hour as it took me about 1 hour to run this first batch.
Think this is going to be a great press. The only item I am going to be cautious of is loading maximum loads with the .3 grain drift. Think if I am pushing the upper limits, I will go to my single stage.
Thanks for all the help with getting the correct parts ordered. I look forward to shooting more so I can reload more!

[chadbag]

Got the press set up and ran a batch of 100 147Gr. Hornady XTP 9mm.
Issues:
1. Powder charge drifted from 4.5-4.8 grains HS-6


What sort of powder is HS-6 (geometry wise?) I probably have a pound somewhere but have not seen it in years.

You should be able to make adjustments to improve the powder drop to be a bit better. It may work but may not be best adjusted. Though this is probably not a big deal with 9mm make sure you give enough time on the downstroke for the powder to fall through. Do you notice any powder on the press at station 2? (this is especially an issue with things like 223 and other small ones where a lot of powder has to go through a small hole -- like I said -- not such a problem in 9mm)

Between each stroke, give a little rap to the powder measure and see if that helps even out the drops (helps to settle the powder if it is a flake or otherwise difficult geometry to get even packing with). At least try it as a test for 20 or 30 rounds.

[Pal]

I don't think you'll ever get 500-600 an hour, even though people claim its possible. If you had primer tubes ready and a case feeder and bullet feeder maybe and were just cranking that handle as fast as can be. 300 an hour should be fairly easy with 9mm and still be able to visually inspect each powder charge.

Try lube on the cases. I've started to put lube on the pistol brass and it makes it alot smoother and that $10 bottle of dillon lube will go a long way.

Rubbing alcohol and qtips do a good job to clean up the press when you get powder spilled on/under the shellplate. The priming system also works better if you can keep it clean.

[chadbag]

It is do-able (without bullet feeder and case feeder) but you have to be up on your game. I have known people who could get at least 500... You do need all your primer tubes pre filled, everything at the ready, and be on your game. Comfortable with what you are doing and practiced.

500 is 7.2 seconds per. 600 is 6 seconds per...



I don't think you'll ever get 500-600 an hour, even though people claim its possible. If you had primer tubes ready and a case feeder and bullet feeder maybe and were just cranking that handle as fast as can be. 300 an hour should be fairly easy with 9mm and still be able to visually inspect each powder charge.

Try lube on the cases. I've started to put lube on the pistol brass and it makes it alot smoother and that $10 bottle of dillon lube will go a long way.

Rubbing alcohol and qtips do a good job to clean up the press when you get powder spilled on/under the shellplate. The priming system also works better if you can keep it clean.

[1_click_off]

What sort of powder is HS-6 (geometry wise?) I probably have a pound somewhere but have not seen it in years.

You should be able to make adjustments to improve the powder drop to be a bit better. It may work but may not be best adjusted. Though this is probably not a big deal with 9mm make sure you give enough time on the downstroke for the powder to fall through. Do you notice any powder on the press at station 2? (this is especially an issue with things like 223 and other small ones where a lot of powder has to go through a small hole -- like I said -- not such a problem in 9mm)

Between each stroke, give a little rap to the powder measure and see if that helps even out the drops (helps to settle the powder if it is a flake or otherwise difficult geometry to get even packing with). At least try it as a test for 20 or 30 rounds.


Looks like a flake powder to me. I will check the alignment of the rod connecting the powder measure and the press. I will also try giving it a rap or two. I would think just working the press would rap it enough. Maybe not though... Thanks

[chadbag]

Looks like a flake powder to me. I will check the alignment of the rod connecting the powder measure and the press. I will also try giving it a rap or two. I would think just working the press would rap it enough. Maybe not though... Thanks

Flake powders are hard to get consistent in any brand powder measure. The do not settle evenly (same problem "stick" powders have) and so each time you get a different amount of air pockets / air volume. Helping the powder settle is your best bet (or switching to a non flake powder). Giving a few small raps will do that. I know of people who have rigged up vibratory devices to the powder measure to keep things settled. I had a customer who invented such a device and had them tuned to each brand of powder measure and I was selling them for him but then he was killed in an accident (RIP) and that ended that. I have other customers who have invented similar things for themselves... With this device we were selling you could get even long grain extruded (stick) powders to be sub .1 grain variance out of any reasonable powder measure.

That connecting rod has nothing to do with it -- that is a safety feature only. By adjustment I was talking more about the timing of the movement of the powder bar (measured by that white plastic square on the side) versus your pull etc. But your problem is the flake powder not settling well and varying the air.

[1_click_off]

If you see my deleted thread.. I felt guilty about starting a new thread to ask the below question, so I deleted it and moved the question here.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=242098 at $34.99

or these

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...hree_Die_Sets_ at $62.95

Reason I don't just get the Lee's.... The Dillon has a larger chamfer on the sizing die and I have a Dillon 550.

The reason I don't just order the Dillon die set.....I have a single stage press and I may want to load on it. If I get the dillon dies, I have no way to flare the cases unless I buy a expander die.

I am leaning more toward the lee right now. What are your thoughts?


I did a little more checking and I think it will be the Lee's and if I have issues, I will get the dillon sizing die for 25 bucks.

[Bimmer]

1. Powder charge drifted from 4.5-4.8 grains HS-6


A margin of error of at least 0.1grains is my experience, too... I dont worry about it.

1. I'm also using a "flake" powder (Unique) which doesn't seem to meter well through the Dillon powder charger.

2. I think my balance beam scale's margin of error is probably at least 0.1 grain — once "zeroed," I can adjust the scale at least 0.1 grain in either direction and it still is basically balanced.