DD handguard question.

[TacDoc]

I have this RRA assembled upper with DD 9.0 rails. It has a SS HBAR 16" bbl that I want to recontour or add some flutes under the handguard to lighten it a bit.

Question #1: How do I remove the rail nut? Any special tool needed or just a strap wrench? Anyone here knows if RRA applyes red or blue thread lock to this nut? I really dont want to scratch it!

Question #2: Between recontouring or fluting, wich one saves more weight? Any recommended contour? Flute pattern?

Any help will be appreciated.

[Marler5811]

I have this RRA assembled upper with DD 9.0 rails. It has a SS HBAR 16" bbl that I want to recontour or add some flutes under the handguard to lighten it a bit.

Question #1: How do I remove the rail nut? Any special tool needed or just a strap wrench? Anyone here knows if RRA applyes red or blue thread lock to this nut? I really dont want to scratch it!

Any help will be appreciated.

Daniel Defense sells a proprietary spanner wrench for the new model threaded ring, but a strap wrench will also work. If you have problems getting it loose, apply some heat using a heat gun or a blow dryer.

[Nitrox]

Use a strap wrench. I got a little to excited with the Blue lock-tite and got one of the nuts stuck. I ended up cuting it off.

[SuicideHz]

Use a strap wrench. I got a little to excited with the Blue lock-tite and got one of the nuts stuck. I ended up cuting it off.

Getting excited and getting a nut stuck is just another day at the office for Nitrox!

You will need a strap wrench for the older DD rings. Steve at ADCO assembled my upper the first time around and never used loktite so I'm pretty sure it isn't necessary and wasn't used by DD. But then again, they'd know for sure and might...

Either way, crank down on it with a strap wrench. You'll know soon enough whether there is loktite or not.

[Duffy]

Just went through an experience with my KAC FF RAS MRE, I too got carried away with th blue loctite and applied a generous amount of it to the handguard nut.
While trying to disassemble it to install the Vltor MUR, I loosened the barrel nut, because the dang handguard nut wouldn't budge. Also broke my strap wrench. Heated it up with a propane torch, put it in the oven for 30 minutes at 300 degrees, no dice.
Finally I torched it again, and this time put the handguard nut in a vice, put a screw driver through the handguard venting holes and was able to turn it. I almost cut it off :mad:

[SuicideHz]

Ouch. You could try contacting Jay. I might have reason to believe he's really helpful if you've made "mods" to your rail and you want it to appear more normal again...

[Nitrox]

The lock ring is only $10 or $15 so don't make too big an issue of it. If it won't come off, cut it and buy a new one.

[TacDoc]

Thank you all for your replys but I'll not try to disassembly the upper until I decide on the recontour vs flutes issue. What do you think will make the bbl lighter? Any contraindication to do so with a HBAR bbl?

[Josh-L]

Flutes don't save that much weight. There is also people that will argue it affects accuracy somehow but they lose me with all their fancy talk. I would just have it turned down to a smaller profile. It will save you more weight and is probably cheaper than flutes also. I really like the looks of a good flute job though. My favorite barrel was a HBAR middie 16 turned real light just under the handguards. Still wish I hadn't sold that one.

[M4arc]

I would send it to ADCO and have him disassemble and turn it down to a Gov't profile.

I've never been excited about fluting and never been able to tell any difference in weight. ADCO is probably the best at turning a barrel down so send the whole thing to then and let them work their magic.

[Dave Berryhill]

Think of turning down the diameter as "360 degree fluting." You'll lose more weight that way and it's easier to do than fluting.