Input on G2 LED issues?

[DaBears_85]

Has anyone ever experienced any issues with their G2 LED flickering on and off? The reason I ask is because I've been experiencing some issues with my new G2 LED I received about a month or so ago. When the tailcap is turned far enough clockwise that the momentary-on feature is activated any (slight) pressure placed anywhere on the tailcap causes the light to flicker on and off. I emailed SF and they sent me a replacement tail-cap but I'm still experiencing the same issue. Does anyone have any input on how to fix this issue myself, or is my best bet just to see if I can get it replaced? SF's customer service has been a pleasure to deal with by the way. I've been very pleased with them so far.

[Skang]

There is notch on the body and tail cap. line it up and start adjust turn from there. If it's too far out, any flash light will do that.

And make sure bezel is tight. (Using low quality batteries?)

[Jerm]

Shouldn't happen...

I can't get any of my lights (G2Ls or other) to do that regardless of how they're adjusted.

I'd just return it for a new one.

[sammage]

If the tailcap is too close to turning the light on, it gets pretty sensitive. Try backing the tailcap off another quarter or half turn.

[Quiet-Matt]

DaBears_85, I had the same issue. I found that the plastic coating on the batteries had worn over time due to recoil. This exposed the underlying conductive metal of the battery, and was contacting the metal inner wall of the flashlight causing the flickering. You can replace the batteries, or do what I did. I didn't want to waste the batteries because they were still good. Instead I laid them on my desk stacked like they go into the light and wraped them in a single layer of clear tape. Box tape or scotch tape will work. Problem solved and no more flickering since.

[Kchen986]

If the tailcap is too close to turning the light on, it gets pretty sensitive. Try backing the tailcap off another quarter or half turn.

This has been my experience too.

[memberonly]

Also check the soldering on the lamp assembly. My 4-year old lamp developed a crack and the light started to flicker. SF offered to replace it but a little bit of reinforcement and the problem went away.

[DaBears_85]

There is notch on the body and tail cap. line it up and start adjust turn from there. If it's too far out, any flash light will do that.

And make sure bezel is tight. (Using low quality batteries?)

The bezel is as tight as it's going to get. I even tried playing with different degrees of tightness on the bezel, but no dice.

I'm using SF's 123A batteries that were included in the light.


DaBears_85, I had the same issue. I found that the plastic coating on the batteries had worn over time due to recoil. This exposed the underlying conductive metal of the battery, and was contacting the metal inner wall of the flashlight causing the flickering. You can replace the batteries, or do what I did. I didn't want to waste the batteries because they were still good. Instead I laid them on my desk stacked like they go into the light and wraped them in a single layer of clear tape. Box tape or scotch tape will work. Problem solved and no more flickering since.

That's a good idea, thanks for the advice. The batteries still have their 'skin' as the light is relatively new. I tried your idea anyway but it didn't change anything. The tail-caps both have a considerable amount of play in them up until the point when they reach the constant-on setting. Since I've used two separate tail-caps with the same result I'm starting to think the problem is with the body of the light, possibly the threading on the tail-end.

[DaBears_85]

Shouldn't happen...

I can't get any of my lights (G2Ls or other) to do that regardless of how they're adjusted.

I'd just return it for a new one.

That's what I'm leaning towards. I just wanted to see if it was something I could resolve myself as this light resides on my HD gun and I don't wanna be without a light on it for any longer than I have to.


If the tailcap is too close to turning the light on, it gets pretty sensitive. Try backing the tailcap off another quarter or half turn.

I see what you're saying but it does this as soon as it gets to the point of it's momentary-on feature. Actually, it even does it a little counter-clockwise past the point of where it's supposed to be off.


Also check the soldering on the lamp assembly. My 4-year old lamp developed a crack and the light started to flicker. SF offered to replace it but a little bit of reinforcement and the problem went away.

The soldering looks good to go, at least as far as my experience can dictate.

[BrianS]

My 6Ps will also activate if there is sideways pressure on the tailcap if the tailcap is tightened down too much. Back it off some and test it as you back off as suggested.

[ucrt]

.

I have several 6P's from Laser Products to a few months old. The old ones do not have the "notch" that indicates proper psotion for push button use. The notches line up about a 1/3 turn loose from tight (light on).

My G2 is about 5-years old and does not have notches. I don't know if the newer ones do but I turn it til tight and loosen it up about 1/4 to 1/3 turn and everything works fine.

If I go too loose with any of the 6P or G2, I can get the light to come on pushing the pushbutton and applying pressure to the side of the tail cap. It wants to blink and stutter a little at that position but it is just too loose. If I barely back off of tight where the light just goes out, sideways pressure on the tailcap makes the light come on.

If you go tight with the tail cap and loosen it a 1/4 turn and still have problems, try light cleaning the battery ends, center and edges of the springs, and metal edges inside the barrel with an eraser. If that doesn't do it, I'd send give SF a call.

The G2's are good lights but I much prefer the 6P's.

But maybe it's just me...

.

[Matt Edwards]

Always change to fresh batteries as your first step.
Then look at the rear demand switch.
Then the bulb it's self.

I can't see the light, and I'll be honest, I'm not even sure I picking up what you a putting down. However, if you have changed the bats, eliminated the switch (again, if) then it's time to look at the bulb. I'm assueming you are useing the P60L?

[DaBears_85]

My 6Ps will also activate if there is sideways pressure on the tailcap if the tailcap is tightened down too much. Back it off some and test it as you back off as suggested.


.

I have several 6P's from Laser Products to a few months old. The old ones do not have the "notch" that indicates proper psotion for push button use. The notches line up about a 1/3 turn loose from tight (light on).

My G2 is about 5-years old and does not have notches. I don't know if the newer ones do but I turn it til tight and loosen it up about 1/4 to 1/3 turn and everything works fine.

If I go too loose with any of the 6P or G2, I can get the light to come on pushing the pushbutton and applying pressure to the side of the tail cap. It wants to blink and stutter a little at that position but it is just too loose. If I barely back off of tight where the light just goes out, sideways pressure on the tailcap makes the light come on.

If you go tight with the tail cap and loosen it a 1/4 turn and still have problems, try light cleaning the battery ends, center and edges of the springs, and metal edges inside the barrel with an eraser. If that doesn't do it, I'd send give SF a call.

The G2's are good lights but I much prefer the 6P's.

But maybe it's just me...

.

I took the light apart and cleaned it pretty well. The cleaning, coupled with the new tail-cap, seems to have partially resolved the issue. The light still flickers if the tail-cap is too loose, but at least now I can find a sweet spot on it (per the above suggestions) where it functions properly. I'm thinking I need to get something to index the tail-caps' position in relation to the body of light so I can get a quick visual on where it needs to be.


Always change to fresh batteries as your first step.
Then look at the rear demand switch.
Then the bulb it's self.

I can't see the light, and I'll be honest, I'm not even sure I picking up what you a putting down. However, if you have changed the bats, eliminated the switch (again, if) then it's time to look at the bulb. I'm assueming you are useing the P60L?

Negative, it has the KX4 installed on it.

[Matt Edwards]

Roger. There are still many of the "older" 80 lumen lights out there. That's why I asked. Sounds like the head.
Give the guys at CS another call. Let me know how it works out.

[DaBears_85]

Roger. There are still many of the "older" 80 lumen lights out there. That's why I asked. Sounds like the head.
Give the guys at CS another call. Let me know how it works out.

I'm satisfied with how it's operating now. I'm going to index the tailcap so I know where it needs to be and call it good. I was impressed with the level of customer service at SF though, keep up the good work.

[Wolf Spyder]

I have a Surefire M951 X07, a single 6P, and several G2 LEDs. All of my G2 LEDs will do what you have described. I have two G2 LEDs mounted on the underside brim of my Cairns 1010 Fire helmet, one on each side. I have one G2 LED in the right hip pocket of my Turnout Gear - Coat. I have one G2 LED on my Camelbak Delta 5 LBV. And I have one G2 LED in the jacket or coat I leave the house with everyday. I can get everyone of them to flicker with side pressure to the tail cap when it is adjusted just right. However, adjusting the rear cap slightly, either twisting the tail cap a 1/4 turn one way or the other, will fix the flickering.

I do not think there is anything wrong with them at all. They're plastic, so I expect this. Neither the M951 X07 nor the 6P has this issue.

[bleaman225]

I had this exact same issue with my G2. I know precisely what you are referring to. The same thing was happening to me as you stated in your op. It seemed like if I turned my tailcap to JUST the right spot it would alleviate the problem but the tailcap occasionally would rotate in my pocket and then the flickering would be back. I switched to this tailcap...
http://www.surefire.com/Click-On-Lock-out-Tailcap-Z59
I twist it completely tight and never use the lock out function on the new tailcap. It has completely eliminated the issue for me. No matter what I do, I can no longer get the light to flicker when on. I have not had an issue since and that has been through the course of four sets of batteries while using the light casually. That led me to believe it was an issue with the tailcap itself and not anything else with MY light. YMMV but maybe this could be another option for you.:dirol:

[DaBears_85]

I have a Surefire M951 X07, a single 6P, and several G2 LEDs. All of my G2 LEDs will do what you have described. I have two G2 LEDs mounted on the underside brim of my Cairns 1010 Fire helmet, one on each side. I have one G2 LED in the right hip pocket of my Turnout Gear - Coat. I have one G2 LED on my Camelbak Delta 5 LBV. And I have one G2 LED in the jacket or coat I leave the house with everyday. I can get everyone of them to flicker with side pressure to the tail cap when it is adjusted just right. However, adjusting the rear cap slightly, either twisting the tail cap a 1/4 turn one way or the other, will fix the flickering.

I do not think there is anything wrong with them at all. They're plastic, so I expect this. Neither the M951 X07 nor the 6P has this issue.

Agreed. Unfortunately, my 6P was 'misplaced' somewhere in the woods of Ft. Cambell, KY. I never experienced this issue with my 6P though, which is why I thought the G2 might be defective. After reading the above posts about other G2's functioning the same way, I feel a lot better.


I had this exact same issue with my G2. I know precisely what you are referring to. The same thing was happening to me as you stated in your op. It seemed like if I turned my tailcap to JUST the right spot it would alleviate the problem but the tailcap occasionally would rotate in my pocket and then the flickering would be back. I switched to this tailcap...
http://www.surefire.com/Click-On-Lock-out-Tailcap-Z59
I twist it completely tight and never use the lock out function on the new tailcap. It has completely eliminated the issue for me. No matter what I do, I can no longer get the light to flicker when on. I have not had an issue since and that has been through the course of four sets of batteries while using the light casually. That led me to believe it was an issue with the tailcap itself and not anything else with MY light. YMMV but maybe this could be another option for you.:dirol:

That's a great idea, thanks for posting. I'll be ordering one with my next paycheck.

[uwe1]

IMO, The standard tailcaps are inferior to the Z59. I've replaced all of mine with the click on/off caps. Besides the profit motive, I don't know why they just don't include the click versions. Many people prefer the Z59s and replace them anyways.

[DaBears_85]

IMO, The standard tailcaps are inferior to the Z59. I've replaced all of mine with the click on/off caps. Besides the profit motive, I don't know why they just don't include the click versions. Many people prefer the Z59s and replace them anyways.

Yeah, they definitely seem like the best available option. $40+ seems a little steep for a tailcap though.

[El Pistolero]

Yeah, they definitely seem like the best available option. $40+ seems a little steep for a tailcap though.

If $40 is too much for you then I recommend the McClicky tailcap upgrade for your stock G2/6P: http://www.oveready.com/surefire-upgrades/oveready-mcclicky-self-installation-clicky-kit-for-surefirea-/prod_23.html

I installed one in a G2Z (because SureFire doesn't make a polymer clicky tailcap) and I also have Z59s on two of my Z2s and a Z49 on a 6PL. The SureFire tailcaps are expensive and nice but the McClicky is said to be more reliable (in reference to the Z59, the Z49 is more reliable by nature) by those nerds at candlepowerforums. The McClicky wasn't hard to install but if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself you can buy a G2 tailcap with the McClicky mod already installed from the website and sell your old one or keep it as a spare.



IMO, The standard tailcaps are inferior to the Z59. I've replaced all of mine with the click on/off caps. Besides the profit motive, I don't know why they just don't include the click versions. Many people prefer the Z59s and replace them anyways.

I couldn't agree more. I have a box full of spare SureFire Z41 tailcaps thanks to having to replace them with Z59s, something they should've come with from the factory.

[Wolf Spyder]

Them Bastards !!!

Surefire discontinued the P60L 12 hour run time LED... Now, the new LED stuff is all 2 - 3 hour run time. That sucks!!!

[El Pistolero]

Them Bastards !!!

Surefire discontinued the P60L 12 hour run time LED... Now, the new LED stuff is all 2 - 3 hour run time. That sucks!!!

Well actually, the packaging of my newest SureFire shows a runtime of 9 hours (a 6P LED, the 120 lumen model w/ KX4 head). But the "tactical" runtime is only 2 hours. Tactical runtime is defined by SureFire as the runtime until output drops below 50 lumens. So in reality the runtime printed on the packaging can be a bit misleading, one must read the fine print.

[DaBears_85]

If $40 is too much for you then I recommend the McClicky tailcap upgrade for your stock G2/6P: http://www.oveready.com/surefire-upgrades/oveready-mcclicky-self-installation-clicky-kit-for-surefirea-/prod_23.html

I installed one in a G2Z (because SureFire doesn't make a polymer clicky tailcap) and I also have Z59s on two of my Z2s and a Z49 on a 6PL. The SureFire tailcaps are expensive and nice but the McClicky is said to be more reliable (in reference to the Z59, the Z49 is more reliable by nature) by those nerds at candlepowerforums. The McClicky wasn't hard to install but if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself you can buy a G2 tailcap with the McClicky mod already installed from the website and sell your old one or keep it as a spare.

It's not that I can't afford $40, it just seems a little steep for what it is. Kinda like how Magpul charges almost $20 for an aluminum trigger guard. The McClicky looks promising, I like the sound of their 'hardpress' boot. I think I'll order both the Z59 and the McClicky, then sell whichever I like the least.

Thanks for the link, El Pistolero. You're the man.

[Tomahawk_Ghost]

Yeah, they definitely seem like the best available option. $40+ seems a little steep for a tailcap though.

Solarforce seems to have a good rep on candlepowerforums.com. It's only $6.

http://www.lighthound.com//Solarforce-L2-Switch--Black-Type-2-Anodized_p_1627.html

[DaBears_85]

Thanks for the link T_G, but I've already placed an order for both the Z59 and McClicky. Plus, I don't like giving any more money to the Chinese than I have to, even if it is only $6. :)

[El Pistolero]

Thanks for the link T_G, but I've already placed an order for both the Z59 and McClicky. Plus, I don't like giving any more money to the Chinese than I have to, even if it is only $6. :)


Good job. I also have a SolarForce clicky, but as soon as my Z59 came in I threw the SolarForce in the spares box. I like my SureFire's to be all-OEM. No room for Chinese stuff at work.

Just a tip, if you are installing the McClicky on your G2 tailcap, leave the tailcap in HOT boiling water for 15 minutes (no need to keep it in a bag), this way it's easier to remove that plastic disc in there (you'll see when you get the instructions and start doing it.) It's glued really well, I almost thought I was going to break the tailcap just trying to unscrew that stupid disc. I didn't know they made plastic that strong!

[pcf]

Your light is working exactly like it's supposed to. Try backing the tailcap off half a turn from constant on and see if the problem persist. See if Surefire will also send you an extra O-ring for the tailcap, it will cut down on the sensitivity.

With the tailcap tightened down to where it's almost at constant on, you can hold the flash light against the forearm of a rifle or shotgun and activate the light by squeezing it. Not as good as a dedicated weapon light but it'll work in a pinch.

Clickies on a "tactical" light are a bad idea IMO, it's too easy to accidentally activate the constant on in a high stress situation.

[DaBears_85]

Clickies on a "tactical" light are a bad idea IMO, it's too easy to accidentally activate the constant on in a high stress situation.

One of the optional features of the McClicky is a 'hard-press' boot. I'm not certain how hard you have to press to activate the constant on, but it sounds promising. Maybe El_Pistolero will chime in.

[El Pistolero]

I believe mine is the hard press version. I haven't used the soft press one so I can't compare but the button on my McClicky is stiffer in every way compared to the SureFire Z59. The McClicky is stiff and requires deliberate force to click into constant on but the momentary on comes on pretty easy, simply apply pressure and the light comes on. The Z59 on the other hand, requires more travel of the switch before the momentary feature is activated, and further travel for click. But the SureFire is softer and it just feels better for me.

Like I said I have the hard-press version, perhaps if you bought the soft-press it would closer replicate the feeling of the Z59 (though it doesn't say anywhere that this was the goal of the designer's of the McClicky.) I say buy both types of boots so you can try them out, I wish I tried both but I'm happy with mine the way it is and I wouldn't change it.