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View Full Version : What to upgrade first on the M&P9?



RancidSumo
01-24-11, 13:06
Since I am coming up on 2000rds through my M&P9 I feel it is time to start making the remaining two upgrades to the pistol: sights and an Apex kit.

I am going to replace the sights with an Ameriglo ProGlo front sight and serrated rear. The paint has come out of the rear left dot on my current sights but I kind of got it back in with some super glue and when focusing on the front sight, I don't really notice it but I want them replaced anyway.

Of these two, what would you upgrade first? Which do you feel is most important or has the greater impact on actual shooting/performance?

Palmguy
01-24-11, 13:11
The sights; by far. I personally think the stock M&P sights suck rather severely...particularly because of the huge apparent size of the dots on the rear compared to that of the front. I'm not a huge fan of 3 dot sights anyways, but these are a particularly bad implementation of that configuration.

That said, it's awful convenient to go ahead and swap the striker block out while you are R&R'ing the rear sight...so I think there is merit to doing both operations at the same time. It's not a big deal to move the rear sight especially if you have a pusher, but that would be the path of least resistance from where I sit.

GermanSynergy
01-24-11, 13:39
Sights, APEX DCAEK and RAM.

RancidSumo
01-24-11, 13:41
Sights, APEX DCAEK and RAM.

In that order?

RancidSumo
01-24-11, 13:42
The sights; by far. I personally think the stock M&P sights suck rather severely...particularly because of the huge apparent size of the dots on the rear compared to that of the front. I'm not a huge fan of 3 dot sights anyways, but these are a particularly bad implementation of that configuration.

That said, it's awful convenient to go ahead and swap the striker block out while you are R&R'ing the rear sight...so I think there is merit to doing both operations at the same time. It's not a big deal to move the rear sight especially if you have a pusher, but that would be the path of least resistance from where I sit.

I'll see about picking up both at the same time but I'm not sure I will be able to. Thanks for the reply.

GermanSynergy
01-24-11, 13:44
I did em all on the same day. :cool:, after running a bone stock M&P 9 for a while.


In that order?

Irish10
01-24-11, 14:01
Buy the sites and the Apex parts at the same time as you have to remove the rear site anyway to replace the striker block.

RancidSumo
01-24-11, 14:07
What tools do I need to install all of this? I don't install sights enough to justify buying a pusher. Can I do all of it with a punch and hammer?

Littlelebowski
01-24-11, 14:08
Trigger, you just need a punch and hammer.

WEC
01-24-11, 14:18
Buy the sites and the Apex parts at the same time as you have to remove the rear site anyway to replace the striker block.

+1.

The trigger spring and sear can be done yourself. Apex has some DIY videos on youtube that will walk you through the process. They even supply a slave pin for installing the trigger pin. If done correctly it won't take but 10 minutes.

mtdawg169
01-24-11, 14:21
Trigger, you just need a punch and hammer.

This. The difference in trigger pull makes a big difference in front sight movement and allows for better / faster folllow up shots in my experience. Better sights are a must have also, but if I had to choose, I would drop in an APEX DCAEK first.

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mtdawg169
01-24-11, 14:25
What tools do I need to install all of this? I don't install sights enough to justify buying a pusher. Can I do all of it with a punch and hammer?

Depending on the fit of your sights, you may be able to do it with a hammer and a delrin punch. My Heinies are so tight that they require a pusher though. Slide & sight tolerances vary widely, so some fitting may be required depending on what sights you choose and your particular gun's slide.

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RancidSumo
01-24-11, 20:06
Depending on the fit of your sights, you may be able to do it with a hammer and a delrin punch. My Heinies are so tight that they require a pusher though. Slide & sight tolerances vary widely, so some fitting may be required depending on what sights you choose and your particular gun's slide.

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Well pretty much everyone it seems like thinks that I should get both and do it at the same time so thats what I will do. I might not be able to get the whole sight set but I can at least get the rear which is all that needs to come off to put the kit in right? I guess I should make sure my current front sight is the right height for the new rear before I do that...

mtdawg169
01-24-11, 22:41
Well pretty much everyone it seems like thinks that I should get both and do it at the same time so thats what I will do. I might not be able to get the whole sight set but I can at least get the rear which is all that needs to come off to put the kit in right? I guess I should make sure my current front sight is the right height for the new rear before I do that...

It will definitely be more convenient to do both at the same time, since you'll only have to remove the sight once. Do what you like. If cost is a concern, which it seems as if it is, you'll be fine to wait on replacing the sights if you have to. The easy answer is always "get both", but it may not be practical or possible to do so, and that's OK.

jaxman7
01-24-11, 23:02
Another vote for the getting both bud.

Can anyone tell me if the newer DCAEK kits include the trigger spring alignment tool. I thought that I had read that somewhere. Thanks,

-Jax

mtdawg169
01-24-11, 23:26
Another vote for the getting both bud.

Can anyone tell me if the newer DCAEK kits include the trigger spring alignment tool. I thought that I had read that somewhere. Thanks,

-Jax

Mine came with a slave pin to help hold the trigger spring in place. Are they doing something different now? That pin is a little small and the spring can be a pain in the neck sometimes.

jaxman7
01-24-11, 23:37
Mtdawg,

Not that I am aware of. The last kit I purchased was way back in May (I think) and they didn't come with one back then. My buddy just ordered one and asked me to help him put it in. I was hoping the newer kits came with them. I can't find the allen wrench I cut down to install mine.

-Jax

WEC
01-24-11, 23:41
Mtdawg,

Not that I am aware of. The last kit I purchased was way back in May (I think) and they didn't come with one back then. My buddy just ordered one and asked me to help him put it in. I was hoping the newer kits came with them. I can't find the allen wrench I cut down to install mine.

-Jax

I ordered a DCAEK recently (3 weeks ago) and it came with a slave pin.

kartoffel
01-24-11, 23:51
The striker block in the DCAEK requires removal of the rear sight, so you might as well do both sights and DCAEK at the same time.

If you're handy, make your own drift punch out of brass rod stock. File a flat on the end of it so the end of the punch has a D shape. Fit the flat of the D down in the dovetail to direct the force most effectively. I did my M&P sights myself that way. Wrapped the slide in electric tape just as insurance against slips, and held it in a big ass bench vise with leather padded jaws.

There's no way a delrin punch would have worked for me. Make a custom punch from brass and it'll go pretty easily. Be sure to watch Apex's YouTube videos a couple times before you do the DCAEK. It's easy.

jaxman7
01-25-11, 00:10
Cool. Thanks for the info.

-Jax


I ordered a DCAEK recently (3 weeks ago) and it came with a slave pin.

shnipe
01-26-11, 17:29
TLR-1 and more ammo. Thats it so far

RancidSumo
01-26-11, 18:10
TLR-1 and more ammo. Thats it so far

Thanks but not one of the options.

RogerinTPA
01-26-11, 19:01
Sights first, shoot 1K rounds through it, then decide if anything else is necessary.

RancidSumo
01-26-11, 19:15
Sights first, shoot 1K rounds through it, then decide if anything else is necessary.

I've already put 1750 (I'll hit 2000 probably the next time I go to the range) through it and am not a huge fan of the trigger so eventually it is getting fixed with the APEX parts whether it is now or after the sights.

kartoffel
01-26-11, 21:17
The DCAEK really is an outstanding drop-in set of parts. Even if you're satisfied with the stock trigger, I guarantee you'll only find the Apex trigger to be even better.

If you don't want to punch off the rear sight you can always install everything BUT the new striker block. It will still run safely and reliably with Smith's factory striker block. Apex's is just rounder and smoother.

RancidSumo
02-24-11, 19:15
How do I know which sear spring to install? There are two but one is really tiny and I don't see how both of them could possibly go in the same place when the size difference is so big.

RogerinTPA
02-25-11, 19:40
I've already put 1750 (I'll hit 2000 probably the next time I go to the range) through it and am not a huge fan of the trigger so eventually it is getting fixed with the APEX parts whether it is now or after the sights.

Good enough. I that case, I've found that just adding the Apex sear and striker block was enough for my needs. YMMV. Randy has several YouTube Videos on Apex Parts. The Sear is very easy to install. If you can wait, if you are using a Smith, just have him replace the striker block and spring when he replaces the rear sight or, you can do it yourself. I haven't installed the DCAEK kit, so maybe someone else will come along and chime in.

S. Kelly
02-26-11, 13:46
Only upgrade needed is an upgrade to a Glock 19 with factory NS.

jaxman7
02-26-11, 13:58
This adds nothing in helping out Rancid or anyone else interested in gathering information from his thread.

-Jax


Only upgrade needed is an upgrade to a Glock 19 with factory NS.

S. Kelly
02-26-11, 14:39
Sorry, went too far. Too much Glocktalk today.

jaxman7
02-26-11, 14:47
That'll rot your gun brain! :D

-Jax

QUOTE=S. Kelly;922360]Sorry, went too far. Too much Glocktalk today.[/QUOTE]

RancidSumo
02-26-11, 23:56
Well I got most of the APEX parts in today. It was a pretty simple and straight forward process although the little plunger under the sear is a real bitch to get in.

I then through the gun in a vice and tried to drive out the factory sights. That didn't end up going anywhere. I couldn't get them to budge so I gave up and took them down to 5280 Armory to have them take the damn things out for me, install the striker block, and the Pro-Glo sights. I should have it back tomorrow.

My impressions of the APEX parts minus the striker block is already very positive. The trigger pull is considerably lighter and crisper. The front sight no longer moves when the trigger is pulled. I can't wait to get the finished product to the range.

Thanks for the help everyone.

BRossman
02-27-11, 21:29
I vote for trigger. I hated the factory trigger in my m&p. Bought a DCAEK and RAM from Apex and love it. Installed sights at the same time since, as others have stated, you needed to remove the rear sight to replace the striker plunger and spring.