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Bison
09-05-07, 11:33
Howdy all,

I just picked up my new Lancaster AKM-47 yesterday and field stripped it last night. This being my first AK style rifle, I have a few questions. I've already searched the forum here and over at ARF.com and it seems that not very many people post about how to actually clean and lubricate an AK. I suppose they just have that reputation.

Anyway, I've always believed in taking good care of my weapons. So, does anyone have any information on the best way to clean an AK and, in particular, what to lubricate when reassembling the rifle? Last night I just guessed that the piston, bolt, bolt carrier and recoil spring wouldn't be hurt by some FP-10, so they got a light coat. What else should I pay attention to?

Also, what is the easiest way to clean the inside of the gas block and gas piston tube?

Thanks in advance.

Heavy Metal
09-05-07, 11:42
Start Here:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=53&t=86746

MilComm TW25B grease is excellent for an AK. Dab it on the rails top and underside of the rails too, smear a bit on the hammer face and disconnector hook and trigger hook.

Use a light oil on the rest. If it moves or rubs, oil it except leave the piston head dry.

I am trying a new product called weapon shield that seems to be a quite good light oil. It is staying put in my AR instead of draining out like Break Free tends to over time.

I believe these two products will give you a nice lube job that will persist for a long firing schedule and provide a high level of wear protection.

TOrrock
09-05-07, 12:20
You don't want lube on the piston, it's not moving against anything and the lubricant will just cook onto it.

You want to put some light lube on the two lower rails that the bolt carrier run on, and the two "upper rails", which are the top of the receiver visible after taking the dust cover off.

Also, a light coat on the bolt itself, specifically the locking lugs and the "tower" or body of the bolt that rotates in the bolt carrier.

A little lube on the disconnector/hammer interface is also a good idea.

I wouldn't put liquid lube on the recoil spring assembly. If you do, it will shoot out of the take down cut out of the dustcover and come right back in your eye/glasses.

Hope that helps.

Jay Cunningham
09-05-07, 12:21
One of the nice things about keeping an AK running is that it's not rocket science.

Many users like an all purpose oil called Ballistol. It smells really weird but is excellent for older steel guns like AK's and M1A's. Personally I would give every part of your AK a good wipedown with Ballistol, and then lube with particular attention to the bolt and rails. After shooting it a bit, look for the wear areas (they'll start to get shiney) and make sure those are lubed as well.

Ballistol is also very good when dealing with corrosive ammo, which is not so prevalent with 7.62x39mm - but it does exist.

Bison
09-05-07, 13:15
Thanks, all, for the information!

Keith E.
09-05-07, 13:25
Ballistol is also very good when dealing with corrosive ammo, which is not so prevalent with 7.62x39mm - but it does exist.


Beware any copper wash ammo as some of it was quite corrosive.

Keith

Bison
09-05-07, 21:42
Beware any copper wash ammo as some of it was quite corrosive.

Copper wash? What does that mean?

I figure I'm going to stick to the pretty cheap russian ammo. for this rifle. It will just be a fun plinker. My understanding is that the polymer coated Wolf, Golden Tiger, etc. were non-corrosive and pretty decent when it comes to just having fun. Am I wrong?

The SHTF/HD weapons are and will remain my M&P15T and my Kimber TLE II. Those get fed much better rounds.

DRich
09-05-07, 22:14
I figure I'm going to stick to the pretty cheap russian ammo. for this rifle. It will just be a fun plinker. My understanding is that the polymer coated Wolf, Golden Bear, etc. were non-corrosive and pretty decent when it comes to just having fun. Am I wrong?


Stick with any of the steel cased Russian ammo (Wolf, Barnaul, Golden Tiger, Silver Bear, etc) and you'll be fine. None of it is corrosive.

Some Chicom and Yugoslavian surplus ammo is corrosive, but it's not very common.