BrigandTwoFour
02-10-11, 12:22
So here it is! It's been a long while coming, and I really have to thank everyone here who helped me along the way. Without M4C, I would have ended up with a vastly different weapon. Feel free to offer critiques. I am already aware of most of my shortcomings and possible failure points, but I'm always open to more suggestions (I.E. don't worry about me getting all butt hurt if you say something I don't like. I'm human and make mistakes too)
I started this little venture about a year ago, with more research than I care to remember. I went through every phase of wanting to be uber tacticool and wanting "Zombies" engraved into the 'Auto' location on the fire selector, demanding all the latest gizmos, to desiring something a bit more low key. I'm glad that I have long since gained control over my need for instant gratification. Time, it seems, is the best method towards making a better decision.
The rifle itself was finished in September last year, and it shoots beautifully. It's had about 500 rounds of various loads down the tube (mostly Remington 62 UMC, Fiocchi 55gr, and Hornady SP 55gr training). Had a single malfunction in all of that with the Hornady, it was magazine related (wasn't seated properly). I can't speak to accuracy yet, as I haven't had the scope long enough to actually go shoot with it. But with Monty's reputation for his barrels, I expect it will do fantastic with the right ammo.
From September to last week, I was agonizing over the optic choice. Ultimately settling on the Trijicon TR24G (love it). It was mounted two days ago. The TR24 hasn't been zero'd yet since it really hasn't been much above zero where I live for the last four months- and 60 kt winds aren't exactly ideal for scope tuning. But I'll get my chance soon enough.
Anyway here is the build sheet:
Upper Receiver:
Centurion Arms 16" CHF LW midlength, with Centurion pinned gas block, mounted to a Spikes Tactical stripped upper. An AAC non-mount blackout flash hider is on the end of the barrel (there is an ongoing thread in technical about this flash hider possibly being over torqued).
The rail is a 10" Spikes/Seekins BAR. I really like this system. I know it's not considered 'Top Tier', but the machine work is first rate, and the mounting mechanism is extremely secure. It would probably be too wide for a lot of people's hands, but my big mits fit nicely around it. I also really like the integrated QD sling sockets. My only real issue is that the front of the side rails have this nifty-looking slope to them. While it looks nice, it does cause me to lose some rail real estate for attachments (like the light). I know some people really love the 12" look over a low profile gas block, but i just find I'm more comfortable holding it slightly closer, so I figured I would save the weight (I also happen to really like the look of a just barely exposed gas block sticking out the end).
I used a BCM M16 Auto BCG and Gunfighter mod 4 charging handle. I've only been bitten once by it, but have since learned not to wrap my finger around the latch when I pull it.
Magpul MBUS backup sights. I don't care for these very much. I learned to shoot with M1A match sights, and compared to those the MBUS are just too big and blocky for precision. But they are backups to the scope, so they serve that purpose just fine.
Lower Receiver:
The lower is again a Spikes stripped, and from what I can gather about the serial number, it's a fairly old one. I purchased it locally and built it up using a G&R LPK, Magpul MIAD, Magpul Enhanced trigger guard, and Geissle SSA.
The stock is a Magpul ACS (with enhanced butt pad) on a mil-spec tube with a Spikes ST-T2 buffer (I LOVE how smooth the recoil impulse is with this)
I used a Magpul ASAP plate at the base of the tube, which was a royal bitch to stake. I may end up swapping this for the Noveske or DD units.
Other Stuff:
I have the QD Tango Down Stubby VFG. However, I use it much more like a hand stop than a VFG, and will probably replace it with a hand stop for that reason.
The TR24G is mounted in an ADM Recon-H mount. This gives it the same 1.93" height as the Larue LT-135. It definitely gives me a much better 'heads up' posture, though my traditional cheek weld I use on my M1A ends up being a bit more like a chin weld.
I love the TR24. I was concerned about it's low light performance, especially inside my house at night. But a few runs with all the lights off at night has taken care of those fears. The green triangle is VERY visible to me indoors at night, and reticle washout from the Elzetta ZFL-M60 (which, at 235 lumens, I admit is probably a bit excessive) is minimal. The post still glows even against light colored walls, and even if that became too much, the black post works just as well for me.
The light, by the way, is mounted in a Gear Sector 6P.
I also have a Magpul BAD lever, and I like it. I like it a lot.
For a sling, I have a Magpul MS2. I originally purchased it in conjunction with the ASAP so that I could use the single point most of the time, and go to two point when I needed to. Through drills, I have decided that I personally like carrying it on a two point configuration most of the time. I may end up getting a VTAC or Blue Force Gear two pointer in the future and moving the MS2 to a low weight/high speed build I have in mind.
In total, with shipping, parts, tools, and labor, I calculate about $2800 into this gun, not including magazines. Also, for those that may ask, the total weight, unloaded, comes in around 9.5 lbs. I may try to shave more of this off by switching to a smaller light, and using a handstop rather than the stubby VFG. But it all balances very well. With no magazine inserted, the balance point comes to the front third of the magazine well. I could probably bring this right to my grip by storing batteries in the ACS, but I'm not sure I want to sacrifice the weight.
So, without further ado, here are the pics (please excuse the noobishness of the ARFCOM style at the beginning, I was pretty hasty and the weather outside is terrible enough that I couldn't go get some nice pretty shots out there)
Side Profiles
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcup5GVlI/AAAAAAAAANA/CUfBJ8PMOoQ/s720/DSC_0855.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcuPNqvvI/AAAAAAAAAM8/QeiN1UFi2FM/s720/DSC_0856.JPG
Bolt carrier group
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQctotiN8I/AAAAAAAAAM4/zPkI0-G8o4M/s720/DSC_0857.JPG
Shot of the QD sling mount inserted into the rail. The rail came with two QD mounts for use on any of 5 points integrated into the rail.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmvQ6oL5I/AAAAAAAAANs/Oe_JWmoG2fQ/s720/DSC_0848.JPG
Light and mount
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcvnmNC4I/AAAAAAAAANI/XmRJsqFiaK4/s720/DSC_0850.JPG
Trigger/BAD
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmuzvSNZI/AAAAAAAAANo/GHIL2LFef9w/s512/DSC_0847.JPG
Picture (from the top of the receiver) of the anti-rotation tabs on the rail system. The rail fastens into a very beefy barrel nut with eight torx screws. At the base of the rail, there are two tabs (one on each side) that slide very tightly along the flats of the upper receiver. You can see the line where the forearm meets the receiver and then where the tabs keep extending to the left (just below the front latch of the ADM mount)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmw-DKIuI/AAAAAAAAAN4/EbNaZjUGOuA/s720/DSC_0853.JPG
And lastly, here is (amateur) shot through the TR24 set at 1X without my light activated. The fuzziness around the edge is not there when actually looking through the scope, I'm just not that great with my girlfriend's camera.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmwU4igJI/AAAAAAAAAN0/mZaFh1mFPLg/s720/DSC_0851.JPG
I started this little venture about a year ago, with more research than I care to remember. I went through every phase of wanting to be uber tacticool and wanting "Zombies" engraved into the 'Auto' location on the fire selector, demanding all the latest gizmos, to desiring something a bit more low key. I'm glad that I have long since gained control over my need for instant gratification. Time, it seems, is the best method towards making a better decision.
The rifle itself was finished in September last year, and it shoots beautifully. It's had about 500 rounds of various loads down the tube (mostly Remington 62 UMC, Fiocchi 55gr, and Hornady SP 55gr training). Had a single malfunction in all of that with the Hornady, it was magazine related (wasn't seated properly). I can't speak to accuracy yet, as I haven't had the scope long enough to actually go shoot with it. But with Monty's reputation for his barrels, I expect it will do fantastic with the right ammo.
From September to last week, I was agonizing over the optic choice. Ultimately settling on the Trijicon TR24G (love it). It was mounted two days ago. The TR24 hasn't been zero'd yet since it really hasn't been much above zero where I live for the last four months- and 60 kt winds aren't exactly ideal for scope tuning. But I'll get my chance soon enough.
Anyway here is the build sheet:
Upper Receiver:
Centurion Arms 16" CHF LW midlength, with Centurion pinned gas block, mounted to a Spikes Tactical stripped upper. An AAC non-mount blackout flash hider is on the end of the barrel (there is an ongoing thread in technical about this flash hider possibly being over torqued).
The rail is a 10" Spikes/Seekins BAR. I really like this system. I know it's not considered 'Top Tier', but the machine work is first rate, and the mounting mechanism is extremely secure. It would probably be too wide for a lot of people's hands, but my big mits fit nicely around it. I also really like the integrated QD sling sockets. My only real issue is that the front of the side rails have this nifty-looking slope to them. While it looks nice, it does cause me to lose some rail real estate for attachments (like the light). I know some people really love the 12" look over a low profile gas block, but i just find I'm more comfortable holding it slightly closer, so I figured I would save the weight (I also happen to really like the look of a just barely exposed gas block sticking out the end).
I used a BCM M16 Auto BCG and Gunfighter mod 4 charging handle. I've only been bitten once by it, but have since learned not to wrap my finger around the latch when I pull it.
Magpul MBUS backup sights. I don't care for these very much. I learned to shoot with M1A match sights, and compared to those the MBUS are just too big and blocky for precision. But they are backups to the scope, so they serve that purpose just fine.
Lower Receiver:
The lower is again a Spikes stripped, and from what I can gather about the serial number, it's a fairly old one. I purchased it locally and built it up using a G&R LPK, Magpul MIAD, Magpul Enhanced trigger guard, and Geissle SSA.
The stock is a Magpul ACS (with enhanced butt pad) on a mil-spec tube with a Spikes ST-T2 buffer (I LOVE how smooth the recoil impulse is with this)
I used a Magpul ASAP plate at the base of the tube, which was a royal bitch to stake. I may end up swapping this for the Noveske or DD units.
Other Stuff:
I have the QD Tango Down Stubby VFG. However, I use it much more like a hand stop than a VFG, and will probably replace it with a hand stop for that reason.
The TR24G is mounted in an ADM Recon-H mount. This gives it the same 1.93" height as the Larue LT-135. It definitely gives me a much better 'heads up' posture, though my traditional cheek weld I use on my M1A ends up being a bit more like a chin weld.
I love the TR24. I was concerned about it's low light performance, especially inside my house at night. But a few runs with all the lights off at night has taken care of those fears. The green triangle is VERY visible to me indoors at night, and reticle washout from the Elzetta ZFL-M60 (which, at 235 lumens, I admit is probably a bit excessive) is minimal. The post still glows even against light colored walls, and even if that became too much, the black post works just as well for me.
The light, by the way, is mounted in a Gear Sector 6P.
I also have a Magpul BAD lever, and I like it. I like it a lot.
For a sling, I have a Magpul MS2. I originally purchased it in conjunction with the ASAP so that I could use the single point most of the time, and go to two point when I needed to. Through drills, I have decided that I personally like carrying it on a two point configuration most of the time. I may end up getting a VTAC or Blue Force Gear two pointer in the future and moving the MS2 to a low weight/high speed build I have in mind.
In total, with shipping, parts, tools, and labor, I calculate about $2800 into this gun, not including magazines. Also, for those that may ask, the total weight, unloaded, comes in around 9.5 lbs. I may try to shave more of this off by switching to a smaller light, and using a handstop rather than the stubby VFG. But it all balances very well. With no magazine inserted, the balance point comes to the front third of the magazine well. I could probably bring this right to my grip by storing batteries in the ACS, but I'm not sure I want to sacrifice the weight.
So, without further ado, here are the pics (please excuse the noobishness of the ARFCOM style at the beginning, I was pretty hasty and the weather outside is terrible enough that I couldn't go get some nice pretty shots out there)
Side Profiles
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcup5GVlI/AAAAAAAAANA/CUfBJ8PMOoQ/s720/DSC_0855.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcuPNqvvI/AAAAAAAAAM8/QeiN1UFi2FM/s720/DSC_0856.JPG
Bolt carrier group
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQctotiN8I/AAAAAAAAAM4/zPkI0-G8o4M/s720/DSC_0857.JPG
Shot of the QD sling mount inserted into the rail. The rail came with two QD mounts for use on any of 5 points integrated into the rail.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmvQ6oL5I/AAAAAAAAANs/Oe_JWmoG2fQ/s720/DSC_0848.JPG
Light and mount
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQcvnmNC4I/AAAAAAAAANI/XmRJsqFiaK4/s720/DSC_0850.JPG
Trigger/BAD
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmuzvSNZI/AAAAAAAAANo/GHIL2LFef9w/s512/DSC_0847.JPG
Picture (from the top of the receiver) of the anti-rotation tabs on the rail system. The rail fastens into a very beefy barrel nut with eight torx screws. At the base of the rail, there are two tabs (one on each side) that slide very tightly along the flats of the upper receiver. You can see the line where the forearm meets the receiver and then where the tabs keep extending to the left (just below the front latch of the ADM mount)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmw-DKIuI/AAAAAAAAAN4/EbNaZjUGOuA/s720/DSC_0853.JPG
And lastly, here is (amateur) shot through the TR24 set at 1X without my light activated. The fuzziness around the edge is not there when actually looking through the scope, I'm just not that great with my girlfriend's camera.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_PG0cl3lhC3M/TVQmwU4igJI/AAAAAAAAAN0/mZaFh1mFPLg/s720/DSC_0851.JPG