KX3 Line Up PICTURES ADDED

[md519]

So yes, I did run a search on the forums and was unable to come up with anything useful.

How the hell do you get the Pig and the writing to line up properly?

[ucrt]

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Not exactly sure what you're asking??

If you're referring to the Noveske "Flaming Pig", here's the LINK (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=kx3556p&cat=141&page=1&search=&since=&status=).
You might give them a call if you are wanting more info.

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[md519]

When it screws on it always ends up with the pig on top and the writing on the bottom. No matter where I start it at. I'm using a standard crush washer.

[Iraqgunz]

You may have to use shims. Do the instructions indicate a torque spec? Crush washers do not call for it, but you may need to if using shims. I would shim it out, and once you have it where you want it, then apply a small amount of Rocksett.


When it screws on it always ends up with the pig on top and the writing on the bottom. No matter where I start it at. I'm using a standard crush washer.

[cj5_dude]

Are you crushing the crush washer or just tightening it down until it touches? You should be able to put a wrench on there and keep turning until it lines up where you want it and crush the washer.

[ucrt]

When it screws on it always ends up with the pig on top and the writing on the bottom. No matter where I start it at. I'm using a standard crush washer.


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The website states:
"Please be aware that the M15x1 KX3 does not use a crush washer or wire ratchet. The markings on the M15x1 KX3 will NOT time with the rifle. This is cosmetic only."

Is this what your problem is?

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[Iraqgunz]

That refers to the M15x1 model for certain German rifles.


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The website states:
"Please be aware that the M15x1 KX3 does not use a crush washer or wire ratchet. The markings on the M15x1 KX3 will NOT time with the rifle. This is cosmetic only."

Is this what your problem is?

.

[md519]

Hey guys thanks for the tips.

So the instructions call for 30 ft-lb of torque, problem is I'm setting this up on a DD lite rail. All I can slip in on the flats of the KX3 is a Tapco Armorers wrench. I can't get my torque wrench on it, I may try to rig something up tomorrow, and I have not crushed the washer either. Here's a picture.
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/8e170c54.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/a0ee90f3.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/36ae353a.jpg

[cj5_dude]

I'd use a strap wrench and just keep turning it until it's where you want it. It's mostly cosmetic unless you plan to use the wire cutting feature often. You won't over torque it if you are still crushing the washer.

If you want to be that obsessive over getting an exact torque then use shims. Otherwise just keep turning, it'll be ok.

[Todd.K]

The crush washer is designed to crush at about 30 ft-lbs to allow timing the muzzle device without exceeding the torque spec.

New Installation instructions:
1.Clear the weapon.
Clean and inspect threads on the barrel and the rear of the KX3 body.
2. Place the crush washer small end first on the barrel threads. (Never reuse the crush washer)
Hand tighten the KX3 until it stops against the crush washer.
5. Using a 3/4" wrench, tighten a minimum of approximately 1/4 turn. Continue to tighten until the writing
is facing up on the left side, not to exceed a total of 1 and 1/4 turns from hand tight.

http://noveskerifleworks.com/impdf/kx3556p.pdf

[Gunpowder]

Would I be correct in assuming that step 5 in the above instructions could be applied to attaching other flash suppressors using crush washers? I'm referring to the # of turns acceptable for crush washers.

[md519]

After some research and tedious work I got it lined up. There was no way I could get it turned to where it should be without using a cheater bar and serious force.

Considering I did not want up be exerting that much force on the barrel, I came up with my own solution.

I understand that these barrels are built like tanks, however I did not feel comfortable enough taking a cheater bar to the end of my armorers wrench and giving it hell.

Solution? I ground down the convex end of the crush washer. Not much, mind you, but enough to allow me to get to within 45ish degrees of where I needed the KX3 to be. Ground it down on 100 and 340 grit sand paper. All I did was run the washer in a circular pattern on the sand paper, switching directions every so often. I made sure the crush washer was smoothed out and cleaned, installed that and the KX3, then applied approximately 30-40 ft-lb of torque to sinch it up.

Like I said the above mentioned process took me to about 45 degrees off where I needed to be. I used a couple drops of Blue LocTite to "seal the deal".

Here's the finished product.

http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/e3a53802.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/63fb53d5.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/b2f46701.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mdglock22/0595c500.jpg

[rob_s]

I have filed numerous crush washers to get them to a point where I could correctly align a timed muzzle device. No ill effects.

[md519]

I though this would be the least intrusive and best solution. I read a couple of posts from the forum where I'd seen this mentioned. Rather shit the bed screwing up a washer than do damage to the tube or upper.

[Iraqgunz]

Blue Loc-tite 242 is pretty worthless for application on a flash hider. It will lose it's strength properties after it heats up.

This is why we have Rocksett.

[md519]

Thanks for the responses!