View Full Version : Mora Knives Only
I just finished Cody Lundin's 98.6 Degrees, The Art of Keeping Your ASS ALIVE! (Great Book)
He clearly likes and uses Mora Knives. I have read about them little on this website but there isn't enough info on them. Most of the info here and there regarding the topic is limited to "I like them and they are cheap" posts (unless I missed something).
I went ahead and ordered three Frosts Mora Knives from ASE Best Glide (http://www.adventuresurvivalequipment.com/survival-tools-sharps/frosts-mora-knives.html) based on Cody's recommendations in the book. He only designated about two pages to the knife so I thought we could compile more information here.
Why did you buy one?
What do you like/dislike about them?
How long has it lasted?
What are the limitations?
Best way to sharpen?
Is there a best brand/style?
Best carry method?
How do you use them?
...And any other good info.................
As the title reads "Mora Knives Only" please don't cloud up the thread with anything not pertaining to Mora-style Knives.
D
Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.
Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.
I have CLippers with both Stainless and carbon blades love them been using and abusing them for years as woods and camp and hunting knives and just usually strop them up and they are back to hair popping sharpness. I made my own simple kydex sheaths or use factory ones I carry them in my man bag that is always with me. Its funny when you use and abuse a knife that is this cheap its hard to go to top dollar ones. These have their place. The Mora or Frost is the SAK of the fixed blade world. Is there better yes but these are really good
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It has been years since I kept up with knives but I think the Mora's used a "sandwiched" steel. Two soft layers of steel that support a hard steel in the center. I think it was a Swedish? composition.
I don't know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that.
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I have a Mora in my car kit. It's not a bad knife for the price. I've had mine for 10 years now and it just needs a resharpening after chopping small branches with it. I have 3 brand new ones in backup since they are so cheap. Don't get me wrong I love my Spydercos, but you can't beat the Mora for a cheap camp knife.
Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.
Looks good enough to try for $15.
Hope this helps:
Different Steels Grades from Frosts (http://www.moraofsweden.se/index.php?id=356)
The Clipper is Sandvik Stainless (http://www.moraofsweden.se/index.php?cid=321&ssel=14)
Ease of sharpening in the field is apparently one of the reasons these knives are so popular (besides the cost). In Lundin's book he goes into why it sharpens easy but IIRC he states heavy use will make them require frequent sharpening.
D
Looks good enough to try for $15.
Hope this helps:
Different Steels Grades from Frosts (http://www.moraofsweden.se/index.php?id=356)
The Clipper is Sandvik Stainless (http://www.moraofsweden.se/index.php?cid=321&ssel=14)
Ease of sharpening in the field is apparently one of the reasons these knives are so popular (besides the cost). In Lundin's book he goes into why it sharpens easy but IIRC he states heavy use will make them require frequent sharpening.
D
Yeah actual steel information was what I was looking for. Thanks for the links
Yeah actual steel information was what I was looking for. Thanks for the links
EDIT:
I found the information you seek: It's Sandvik 12C27 (http://www.smt.sandvik.com/sandvik/0140/internet/s001664.nsf/062cc3b124d69a8ec1256988002a3d76/5c18a87067367d1ac12577de004bf9f7!OpenDocument).
I bought 3, one for both my vehicles and one for my brother who is an avid backpacker.
Hopefully that link will help; my Google-Force is strong today.
EDIT:
I found the information you seek: It's Sandvik 12C27 (http://www.smt.sandvik.com/sandvik/0140/internet/s001664.nsf/062cc3b124d69a8ec1256988002a3d76/5c18a87067367d1ac12577de004bf9f7!OpenDocument).
I bought 3, one for both my vehicles and one for my brother who is an avid backpacker.
Hopefully that link will help; my Google-Force is strong today.
Here's the link I use to research knife steel from Bladeforums.com (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368828). Thanks for your due diligence.
NeoNeanderthal
02-22-11, 08:45
At my primitive living and survival skills school here in Maine, we reccomend the carbon steel Mora's to people for a first knife. They are cheap, and amazing quality. (keeps an edge and very durable) this lets students use and abuse the knife cheaply and then once they have used it enough to decide what they like and dislike about it, they can spend the money to buy a more expenisive knife. Also work as back up knives/kit knives.
Some of the things i do not like (though for the price i still love em)..
Not full tang. This is a big no-no for a survival knife for me. Most models are partial tang. Many cheap knives are atleast Pin Tang. This is where the tang does travel the length of the handle but it is significantly narrower then the blade itself (like a ka-bar). Ether way, this results in a weak point at the blade/handle junction. Though i would rather have a full tang, ill admit ive never broken one.
The sheath. The sheath is absolutely terrible. What do you expect for a 10-15 dollar knife but still. Not something i like to carry on me. Fine for a bugout bag or car. The rentention is sketchy at best and not something you want to roll/jump around with.
The blade shape Though mora offers many models, the common ones utalize a Clip Point blade. This results in a pointyer blade which many do desire for stabbing bad guys. I have a folder and an M&Pc for poking holes in people so its not important to me. Id rather my bushcraft/survival knife have a beefier tip (IE DROP POINT) to withstand more abuse.
The carbon steel one rocks for heavy bushcraft use, but obviously will rust if not cleaned and oiled. Because of this it is sometimes tricky to include them in seldom opened survival kits. I do, but i lube the hell out of them with motor oil (nice and thick) or bicycle chain grease. And check them/ reoil them whenever i remember too.
My lifestyle does not allow me to carry a sheath knife on me 24/7 so i have to downgrade to a folder. However a fixedblade is really the way to go for SHTF and survival.
Great post, Neo. I'll definitely take all that into consideration. How often do you have to sharpen yours?
NeoNeanderthal
02-22-11, 09:27
hmm thats a tough question. When i am using mine while in the bush or teaching a class, i will "sharpen" it after 4-5 days. However i sometimes will "steel and strop" my knife after uses which allows me to go longer with out sharpening. I also like my knife very very sharp, and use it very heavily. I know students that carry one and use it a few times a day and havent had to sharpen it yet.
Keep in mind if im teachign something like friction fire i will be continuously fixing peoples notches and carving sets for almost 2 hours. So my level of use is different then most.
Carbon holds an edge way better then stainless steel though, and the single bevel of a mora is the tits. Most american knives youll find have a double bevel that is inferior in my opinion. I do love moras, and for the price point they cant be beat. The knives that i like better then moras are around 200$ per knife. This buys me full tang, beefier tip, and better sheath. Though not neccisarily a better steel or edge. Hard to get that when compared to a mora
NeoNeanderthal, thank you for your first hand information.
Which model/blade length do you recommend NeoNeanderthal?
I found many different versions.
I have a couple of Moras running around. I have a thrasher Kellam that I have my students use for specific cutting tasks and an ornate Helle that I wear/use when I am a acting like a "local" at work.
I love them for their feel and keen edge. I do not, however, use them as a general purpose survival knive. I use them for fine cutting and specific purposes.
Got my first mora for 5 bucks at gunshow. Had a problem with rust with carbon steel mora on a backpacking trip.
There is a group of Mora lovers that hang out at the Bushcraft USA forums (http://bushcraftusa.com/forum), and who get good results from them.
If you're looking for a great resource to find Moras and other Scandinavian style knives, here's a great resource:
http://www.ragweedforge.com/
I went with the Mora 2000 because it has one of the longest tangs. From the X-ray pictures I've seen it is a 3/4 tang.
Rmplstlskn
03-28-11, 08:06
I think it is some kind of mystique thing with the Mora... A stated above in another post, there are some serious shortcomings in making a Mora a "primary" knife, especially a primary survival knife... And this is coming from one with Swedish bloodlines...
For an extra blade tossed here and there (vehicle, tool box, fishing box, desk drawer, etc...), then it seems it fits the bill...
Rmpl
Why did you buy one?
I bought my first Mora knife after reading many positive reviews in the Wilderness & Survival Skills forum over at BladeForums.com. And since I am half Swede, I figured I should give them a try. My first Mora knives were a Frosts Tri-Flex Craftsman (Black handle; can't remember model #), a Frosts #760 Craftsman w/ stainless blade and orange handle, and a KJ Eriksson #911.
What do you like/dislike about them?
Considering the value (price+form+function) of the pieces, there is nothing I dislike about them. I like them because they are very affordable, very useable, durable, and are available in a variety of different configurations.
How long has it lasted?
I purchased my first Mora knives about 7 years ago. The only Mora knives that I have purchased that I no longer have are those that I have given away as gifts. They do make for great gifts. Depsite using Mora knives with a baton to split wood on occasion, I have not broken or damaged any.
What are the limitations?
Well, considering how they are constructed, I would say that they aren't the best implements for prying tasks. I wouldn't imagine most of the different plastic sheaths would hold up to a lot of abuse if worn on a belt day in and day out; i.e. the thin plastic loops on the #760 Craftsman series, or the swivel loop connection on my #911 sheath.
Best way to sharpen?
I don't know if it is the best way, but the way I sharpen mine is by laying the single bevel flat on a stone and drawing the knife across. This method takes the edge angle guesswork out of the sharpening equation. Super-easy, and it works well for me.
Is there a best brand/style?
I don't think so. It is up to the user's personal preference. I have a number of different styles, but the Tri-Flex Craftsman and the #911 are probably my personal favorites.
Best carry method?
I mostly carry mine in whatever pack or bag I am using; typically in a lid pocket or exterior/easy-access pocket. I also carry one in a pouch affixed to the back of my PFD.
How do you use them?
Campcraft/noodling around when camping/backpacking, and around the house and yard for random chores.
...And any other good info.................
When camping, backpacking, traveling, paddling, etc., the Mora knife I have on-hand is the centerpiece of a knife kit which usually includes a small sharpener, some sort of fire steel w/ a carbon steel hacksaw striker, and a smaller waterproof container of petroleum jelly cottonballs. I try to lanyard these smaller items together and/or to the knife sheath somehow to bolster loss prevention. I then attach these items to the knife sheath with a strip of bicycle innertube to make a tidy, low-profile package. I complete the kit with a break-away lanyard so that it can be worn as a neck knife setup. The package is somewhat heavy and bulky to be worn daily, but if need be, it is ready to go.
Examples of my little kits (middle kit is not a Mora knife):
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/_hikeeba_/Edged%20Tool%20stuff/SimpleKits.jpg
I highly recommend Mora knives to anyone interested in edged tools.
I don't know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that
I believe you are thinking of Frost Cutlery. Frosts of Sweden was in no way related to Frost Cutlery. Frosts of Sweden (also referred to as Frosts of Mora or Frosts Knife) has since merged with KJ Eriksson to form Mora of Sweden.
I love them for their feel and keen edge. I do not, however, use them as a general purpose survival knife. I use them for fine cutting and specific purposes.
I thought I would update this because while I was home I was able to play with the two Frost's Clipper Knives I ordered from Best Glide. I came to the same conclusion as Tortuga.
These are awesome for $15, but again it's a $15 knife. They are not work horses but I think they would serve a purpose as a great backup knife to keep in kits, vehicles, tackle boxes.
The only thing I thought the knife was lacking for $15 was a lanyard hole through the knife handle. I'm pretty sure it would be easy to drill through the plastic handle since these knives are not full tang.
Dura Mater
06-29-11, 15:47
Moras are excellent knives and far exceed their cost with their value. If you are looking for a tactical knife, a chopper, or a prybar then this is not the knife for you. This is truly a great "woodsman knife" which for me at least is something in the 4 inch blade length range.
Carbon steel holds a great edge and is very easy to sharpen. The scandi grind is very good for woodworking but can be a bit lacking in durability because it is a very fine edge. If you add a slight convex to the edge you will not lose much in functionality but will gain excellent durability.
For me, there is nothing I can't do in the woods with a 4 inch knife. Natural shelters should not require tools at all if you do them properly, the woods will generally provide all you need in pre-cut lengths if you take a moment to look. With a Mora I can carve, cook, baton, fashion tent pegs, and pot hooks, make needles, hooks, etc. Carbon steel also works great on a firesteel which is my preferred method of fire starting. There is some concern from people that they are not full tang but I have done considerable batoning with them and have not had one break (yet) and have seen people stand on them and hammer them tip first into a tree to cut it down. They do an excellent job of prepping a one stick fire so I do not need to concern myself with man made or natural tinder anymore because everything I need is right there in the woods, even if it's pouring rain.
Ultimately the Mora a a great knife for the money and an excellent way to get started in bushcraft without blowing your wallet. I have been at this long enough now to know I actually prefer a custom knife but mainly that's for ergonomics. If you laid out a Mora, Strider, Kabar, SRK, BK whatever, Busse, or whatever other high dollar prybar you choose to insert I'd pick the Mora mainly for it's size and proven utility. Everything I have done in the woods I have done with a Mora just to see if it will work. But my philosophy is that there is no "one knife", if you need an axe use an axe. Carrying a 9 inch long quarter inch thick knife into the woods to substitute for a small knife and an axe is not a happy medium in my opinion. But that's just me, your choice of equipment is a very personal topic in my opinion. All in all I think I have about 12 or more Mora knives and tend to give them away to those getting started in bushcraft.
Moras are excellent knives .....
Thank you for your contribution and welcome to the site.
Which model of Moras are your favorite and why?
Examples of my little kits (middle kit is not a Mora knife):
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/_hikeeba_/Edged%20Tool%20stuff/SimpleKits.jpg
Looks like a Cold Steel SRK in the middle... What make/model is the knife on the far right (black handle)?
Dura Mater
06-30-11, 12:56
Thank you for your contribution and welcome to the site.
Which model of Moras are your favorite and why?
Thanks for the welcome, glad to be here. Personally I like the carbon steel Clippers (specifically the 840MG because of the subdued colors). They have some high end bushcraft knives now but they seem like nothing more than sheath upgrades akin to putting lipstick onto a pig and not worth the extra scratch. Almost all Moras have a similar blade profile and the main difference is in the handle. The Clipper has a softer more comfortable grip that doesn't allow a lot of slipping in the hand especially if wet or perhaps bloody. Carbon steel because if the edge retention and ease of sharpening but it will rust if you don't care for it. There is nothing wrong with stainless but it's just not my preference.
Oh, one more thing, sometimes Moras come from the factory with a very toothy sometimes downright terrible edge so buyer beware. These are great knives for practicing your sharpening skills though! Once you get it stropped up I promise the edge will be like nothing you've ever seen. I don't care how a knife comes from the factory because a good weekend of use will require some touch-up on just about any knife, even high dollar beauties. If you're not dulling your knife even slightly then you're not using her as she wants to be used. ;)
I carry mine on my belt mostly when I'm out in the woods. The sheath is not great but will suffice, buy or make a leather one if you like the knife. Limitations for the Mora are chopping/prying but no different than any other small knife. The best way to sharpen them is however you are comfortable sharpening a knife really. You could use a stone to maintain the scandi, add a secondary bevel and sharpen like 90% of most other knives, use wet/dry paper to create a slight convex and maintain it that way. Moras generally come with a very slight secondary bevel anyway which I promptly flatten out and then add the slight scandi-vex edge.
Dura Mater
06-30-11, 13:31
Here is an example of me using a Mora last winter to make a one stick fire:
Dead standing or in this case hanging wood.
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk209/koabushcraft/IMG_2006.jpg
Fire prep on a bark base using only the inside of the dry wrist thick wood and Mora 840MG porn.
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk209/koabushcraft/IMG_2008.jpg
Closer look at prep.
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk209/koabushcraft/IMG_2009.jpg
Final result. I should have used a brace and can't for the life of me figure out why I didn't. Ingition source was a firesteel and the spine of the Clipper. I keep the spine square at 90 degrees for this purpose.
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk209/koabushcraft/IMG_2011.jpg
No fancy tinder, no road flares, no explosive devices or gunpowder. Just what mother nature provided for me. Of course using a firesteel and a knife was technically cheating too but some days you just feel lazy. Another example of my laziness is the lack of prep used that day. I probably should have prepared 4 times that amount at least. A true woodsman would have used his teeth to chew out a bowdrill set!
I just recently bought a couple of carbon steel mora companion MGs for 12.95 each based on what I have read about them in this thread and a few reviews elsewhere. The factory edge was impressive but I was able to improve on that with just a bit of stropping. I am impressed on their slicing ability but haven't used them on wood yet. Will post back after a few months of use.
Looks like a Cold Steel SRK in the middle... What make/model is the knife on the far right (black handle)?
The tool in the middle is a Cold Steel Carbon V Master Hunter.
The model on the far right with the black handle is a Frosts of SwedenTriflex Craftsman. The Triflex blade is a carbon steel laminate having a high carbon steel core between sides of lower carbon steel. It was acquired before Frosts and K J Eriksson merged into what is now Mora of Sweden. I know More of Sweden still offers a few models with the Triflex blade, but I do not know if my particular model pictured is still produced.
And as mentioned, it is pretty easy to add a lanyard hole to models that aren't configured with one. Although not pictured, I've done the same with Clipper models:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/_hikeeba_/Edged%20Tool%20stuff/Scandis003.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/_hikeeba_/Edged%20Tool%20stuff/Scandis001.jpg
Most of my Mora knives were purchased from Ragnar's Ragweed Forge: http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
Ragnar's main store page: http://www.ragweedforge.com/
Anyone seen this yet:
Mora Bushcraft Survival Knife (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Mora-Bushcraft-Survival-Knife-4-1_4-Stainless-Steel-Blade/productinfo/118-3500/)
I'm not sure if the price is worth what you are actually getting in this package but I like the simplicity of all being integrated into the sheath.
Anyone else think it's odd that they are too lazy to put a lanyard hole on a "survival" kinfe:confused:
Anyone seen this yet:
Mora Bushcraft Survival Knife (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Mora-Bushcraft-Survival-Knife-4-1_4-Stainless-Steel-Blade/productinfo/118-3500/)
I'm not sure if the price is worth what you are actually getting in this package but I like the simplicity of all being integrated into the sheath.
Anyone else think it's odd that they are too lazy to put a lanyard hole on a "survival" kinfe:confused:
Or give a decent sheath....
The firesteel and sharpener incorporated in the sheath is I believe a very sound idea and I like that they gave the blade a more robust tip (all the Moras I've owned/seen have pretty fragile clip points). To me though, the attraction of Moras was always that it was a cheap, but useable knife that wouldn't break my heart if I trashed and that I could add to all my vehicle kits and use as stocking stuffers. For $70 I can get a better knife.
I saw this the other day and I may have to pick one up:
Light My Fire Swedish FireKnife (http://www.rei.com/product/832248/light-my-fire-swedish-fireknife)
What can you owners tell me about sharpening these knives?
the Clipper appears to have been updated into, I believe, the Companion...
the changes I can see are, longer/thicker blade, new sheath, handle is smooth rather than stippled, and the tang is 75% longer.
does anyone have more information on this?
I have heard rumors someone did an X-Ray of different Mora knives to show their tang styles and lengths.
Anyone have a link to the X-Ray?
I have heard rumors someone did an X-Ray of different Mora knives to show their tang styles and lengths.
Anyone have a link to the X-Ray?
no but knifetests.com tested the old style Clipper and got it to break at the handle/tang juncture. it seemed to have a tang that went less than halfway through the handle. the newer model is said to have a tang that extends 2/3 of the way through the handle.
for the price of the things maybe a little destructive testing would answer that question... :cool:
I got a Mora Robust (new model) from the EDCForum store. $20 delivered. It's sheath isn't perfect, but it has good retention, and the an added feature that you can stack more than one knife via the sheath attachment feature. I only have the one Robust though...
http://www.jsburlys.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=moracraftlinerobust%2310315
Sharp, comfortable in the hand, blade steel is thicker than a regular Mora, spine is unfinished, so if you want to use a firesteel you will need to file it flat.
I like it enough that I sold my O-RAT3.
ariesfromhell
01-03-13, 07:26
the Clipper appears to have been updated into, I believe, the Companion...
the changes I can see are, longer/thicker blade, new sheath, handle is smooth rather than stippled, and the tang is 75% longer.
does anyone have more information on this?
I just recieved my 2nd Mora, the Craftline Robust, wich is the new style, thicker blade and couldnt be happier. It should make an already great woods knife even better.
This past November I used my $15 Mora Clipper (in Stainless Steel) to field dress two deer I shot. The knife performed amazingly like a fillet knife. I'm not sure if they still make the Clipper but I believe the Companion in Stainless would be a good substitute.
I used an Arkansas Novaculite Stone (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Arkansas-Stones-Natural-Novaculite/departments/43/) before and after each deer. These stones are the best stone-type sharpener I have ever used.
This is the specific stone I carried with the knife (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/3-x-1-x-1_4-Hard-Translucent-Arkansas-Novaculite-Stone/productinfo/363-1025/).
This past November I used my $15 Mora Clipper (in Stainless Steel) to field dress two deer I shot. The knife performed amazingly like a fillet knife. I'm not sure if they still make the Clipper but I believe the Companion in Stainless would be a good substitute.
I used an Arkansas Novaculite Stone (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Arkansas-Stones-Natural-Novaculite/departments/43/) before and after each deer. These stones are the best stone-type sharpener I have ever used.
This is the specific stone I carried with the knife (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/3-x-1-x-1_4-Hard-Translucent-Arkansas-Novaculite-Stone/productinfo/363-1025/).
I just picked up a mora 601 after reading 98.6 degrees and will be taking it out this weekend for a test run. Not sure if I'll like the finger guard or not. If not it is an excuse to buy another one :).
Excuse a dumb question here. My background with sharpening is mainly wood working (chisels, planes etc) and I've always used water stones or sandpaper+mdf and water to sharpen. Arkansas stones were always in the oil based world so I haven't used them much. Do you carry oil with to use the small pocket stone or does it work well enough with water or spit?
Do you carry oil with to use the small pocket stone or does it work well enough with water or spit?
I used it dry at the time and it worked fine. I'm not sure how hard that is on the stone and blade, but I'm sure oil would be better to use than dry. I'm not actually sure what the recommendation is in the instructions that came with the stone, I'll have to go back and read them before I use it again.
I just got one for $12.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZMAosQQIOg
Found a cut away view of a Robust, scroll down to post #16:
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/76375-Mora-Robust-Ray-Mears-Limited-Edition/page2
Found a cut away view of a Robust, scroll down to post #16:
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/76375-Mora-Robust-Ray-Mears-Limited-Edition/page2
how is the Robust different than a Companion?
Looks like the blade is thicker on the Robust versus the Companion, but not really sure what the difference is in the Robust versus the Companion Heavy Duty.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
Looks like the blade is thicker on the Robust versus the Companion, but not really sure what the difference is in the Robust versus the Companion Heavy Duty.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
thanks. this is their description which is directly below the Companion Heavy Duty -- "#10315: The Robust is a similar model with more neutral coloring. The sheath and trim are dark gray, and the handle overlay is light gray. It comes with the new "dual sheath", which has a post on the front to allow attachment of another knife or other tool. Again, the carbon steel blade is about 4 inches long, 3/4" wide, and .126" thick. $15 ". it seems both knives are carbon steel.
the Robust/Companion Heavy Duty is a nice improvement for Mora aficionados but since I have Fallknivens for heavy use, the Moras are kept as backup and for lighter tasks like food prep, twine cutting, splinter removal, etc.. I keep them razor sharp with a Smith's Pocket Pal Sharpener -- http://www.smithsproducts.com/product/pocket-pal-knife-sharpener/
I was surprised to find the Companion MG (Military Green) Carbon blade is .080" thick, while the Stainless version is .098", not that it makes any difference I can see. I have both versions. the carbons ride clipped into the molle on my packs. the stainless slip into the waistband of my shorts while swimming or boating...
K.L. Davis
01-07-14, 22:06
I don't know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that.
.
Just a heads up... I think you are talking about a different Frost - not really fair to compare the Frosts/Mora to Frost Cutlery (http://www.frostcutlery.com/)
K.L. Davis
01-07-14, 22:28
I have and have had several Moras, they are wonderful knives at a super price. Below is the pic that they provide to show the tang on the bushcraft series knives... it is not a full tang, but given everything the knives are capable of, there is no reason not to own one (or more!). I tell people... if you take 50 bucks, buy a Mora and a good machete or camp knife, you will be way more prepared than about half of the folks I have met with a lot more money tied up in one knife.
http://darkmountainresearch.com/designated_hitter/images/mora2.jpg
http://darkmountainresearch.com/designated_hitter/images/mora.jpg
I have and have had several Moras, they are wonderful knives at a super price. ...given everything the knives are capable of, there is no reason not to own one (or more!). I tell people... if you take 50 bucks, buy a Mora and a good machete or camp knife, you will be way more prepared than about half of the folks I have met with a lot more money tied up in one knife.
this is true. but depending on the whether I am overland traveling (hiking) or based out of a camp, rather than a machete I carry a Fiskars hatchet. there is really nothing that this hatchet and a Mora can't do other than breaking trail. my favorite two-blade combination for bushcraft is a 6"-7.5" knife and a Leatherman that includes a saw blade. but since it's so light (and cheap), I always have a Mora stashed somewhere... :cool:
I think they're probably the best "survival" knife to recommend to people. As has been said there are very few necessary survival tasks that can not be accomplished with these knives.
I experimented with one of the Clippers or Companions (i don't remember anymore) where I drilled out the handle and set in a waterproof tube vault in the handle. I drilled down till I hit the tang, which was probably half way though the handle, and I drilled in with a 1/2" bit.
I batoned the crap out of that knife even after all of that modification and had zero problems reducing about 5 logs into kindling, batoning through all of them. The concern over the tang length seems to be completely academic to me now. Everyone you talk to says they fear it happening, but you can't find ANYONE who's done it. And if you can do it, show me how you did it in a way that I would have to fear in a survival scenario, then I'll go back to worrying about it.
I made a kydex sheath for my Mora, and built it so I could wear it around the neck, or on the belt. I also attached a few items to that sheath to make it into a mini-kit of it's own (micro led keychain light, metal match, paracord, micro compass, etc). I've thought about offering them to others, but selling a $30-40 sheath for a $10 knife probably wouldn't interest too many folks. It has since been stolen, so I don't have pics or anything to show.
As for what model, I now prefer stainless after having lost a carbon steel one to laziness and rust, and something with a comfortable grip and a finger guard. The Companion, Craftline, Bushcraft, or High Q Robust all look excellent and I believe hand size and grip preference is the biggest reason to select one over the other.
I bought a Light My Fire one to replace the one I lost, and will rebuild a mini-kit around a sheath I make for that.
I have dozens of knives, including custom pieces like the Bloodshark... but for survival knives, the Mora's are all that I need. They're also cheap enough that you can stage them in 3 or 4 places where you might want them (vehicle kit, backpacks, toolbox) and you're still not even out the cost of something like an SRK, Fallkniven F1, or ESEE 4.
SeriousStudent
01-08-14, 21:50
.....................
I have dozens of knives, including custom pieces like the Bloodshark... but for survival knives, the Mora's are all that I need. They're also cheap enough that you can stage them in 3 or 4 places where you might want them (vehicle kit, backpacks, toolbox) and you're still not even out the cost of something like an SRK, Fallkniven F1, or ESEE 4.
Jim, you have an excellent point (as usual). I keep a couple of these stashed in vehicles, etc. One very nice thing about the Mora's, is you can get them in the bright orange color. That makes them a lot easier to sell as part of an emergency kit, rather than a concealed weapon cunningly hidden in a car.
Or at least, my police neighbors bought the idea when we were discussing vehicle breakdown/storm kits this week.
Just got my Mora companion SS in yesterday. I was surprised it had no edge on it, you could literally saw your arm without cutting your skin. I was fine with this as I recently picked up the lansky sharpening system for a more fool proof sharpening system over free hand. I also purchased a strop and used the green compound. This mora got stupid sharp, it will easily make a clean wavy slice through paper with straight downward pressure no need to draw the blade towards or away in a single motion. At 12$ I might pick up 5 more of these to put an edge on then add to various packs.
JackFanToM
02-15-14, 20:14
if you like Mora knives you should check out Grizzly Outdoors. Matt makes some of the best sheaths for Mora knives I have ever seen.
Just got my Mora companion SS in yesterday. I was surprised it had no edge on it, you could literally saw your arm without cutting your skin. I was fine with this as I recently picked up the lansky sharpening system for a more fool proof sharpening system over free hand. I also purchased a strop and used the green compound. This mora got stupid sharp, it will easily make a clean wavy slice through paper with straight downward pressure no need to draw the blade towards or away in a single motion. At 12$ I might pick up 5 more of these to put an edge on then add to various packs.
You got a defect if it didn't have an edge on it. They typically ship razor sharp... sounds like your blade didn't sit in their sharpening jig properly.
You got a defect if it didn't have an edge on it. They typically ship razor sharp... sounds like your blade didn't sit in their sharpening jig properly.
Yeah I was shocked cause reviews had it at out of the box razor sharp. I must have got a defect on my Ontario Rat 3 too cause it came with a very rounded edge.
Date[d] Thread acknowledged; but here's the three (3) Mora knives that I have:
http://i.imgur.com/m4fu6VUl.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/ifPfGKZl.jpg?1
The Morakniv 729's size in relation to my 13 Inch Apple MacBook Pro:
http://i.imgur.com/lCPofC7l.jpg?1
The 748 and 749 was bought for Kitchen use. Wanted to try something different.
mutedblade
01-17-16, 16:44
CLHC,
Those are some good looking kitchen utensils. I've been using the standard mora's for a few years along with some victorinox knives. Can't say there is anything in the kitchen (or field) that they won't handle.
CLHC,
Those are some good looking kitchen utensils. I've been using the standard mora's for a few years along with some victorinox knives. Can't say there is anything in the kitchen (or field) that they won't handle.
Thanks mutedblade!
The Moraknivs are widely respected for what it was designed and built (and priced) for by the general consensus. These are among the most (in my opinion) purposeful knives on the market. These come raZor sharp out the case.
Now regarding the Victorinox Forschner Kitchen Cultery knives, one can't go wrong on that choice to.
I picked up the Bushcraft Black early summer 2015 after reading reviews of Mora Knives on here. I have to say it's the the best all purpose knife I've ever had. I bought them for my camping bro's for about $50'ish on Amazon. I've seen pics on FB that Mora will be making full tang knives to be introduced at Shot '16.
37175
I picked up the Bushcraft Black early summer 2015 after reading reviews of Mora Knives on here. I have to say it's the the best all purpose knife I've ever had. I bought them for my camping bro's for about $50'ish on Amazon. I've seen pics on FB that Mora will be making full tang knives to be introduced at Shot '16.
37175
Indeed. Looking forward to that. They've posted a "clipp[ed]" teaser photo of it.
joedirt199
01-18-16, 17:59
Got the bushcraft survival in orange which is a stainless blade. Nice knife but the diamond sharpener was off the sheath when it arrived. No biggy as i probably won't use it much. Also got a champion robust which has one of the thickest blades they offer. Pretty nice little knife. Reground the spine so that it could be used with a fire steel. Ordered from ragnar's since he has cheap flat rate shipping and lots of knives in stock.
Here's an overview of the soon to be released full-tang knife Mora Garberg by Dave Canterbury:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbqZ8ekQ_Fw
Demo Video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M1_6d-pqGw)
Here's two (2) more soon to be released from Mora:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ivs_HELxv8
I have a few Mora knives, I like them because they are so darn cheap. You can't go wrong with one.
have one I got from my Grandpa about 50 years ago :) not sure how long he had it before me ?
in great condition
I'm going to have to snag a couple of those MORA knives. For the price, looks like a no-brainer.
bushcraftdave
08-04-17, 02:54
Probably my all time favorite knife company! I have a small collection. The Mora Garberg is fantastic but any Mora would work great. Great as a knife not a as an axe or cleaver or maul
I have a few Mora Companions that I use a lot. Both are stainless because most of my other fixed blades are carbon steel, and much more expensive. For me the Mora is ideal for day hikes, camp chores, food prep, and general bushcraft. I have one in my Jeep, one in a "go bag", and another for general use. You don't need to spend a lot of money for a good, functional knife. Lately, the Mora accompanies me on day hikes, and I also keep an inexpensive Kershaw folder in my pocket. For a few bucks, I am well equipped. My Bark Rivers, Fallknivens, ESEE, etc, are all jealous! :)
At least one Morakniv 2000 @ 14:30
https://youtu.be/9pe3SZnWfWU
I think that is the Comp M4 with integral battery too.
I own two and for the price they are ok.
Biggest downsides are the crap steel and an edge geometry that is nearly impossible to sharpen well. They also aren’t full tang which should make you nervous.
They are great cutting knives due to that geometry though.
boosterboy
08-02-20, 14:09
For the price point, the Mora Garberg is a great knife with handles that shouldn't slip.
You can baton with it, but please use an axe...
scandi grind is easy to field sharpen
I use the stainless version but there is a carbon steel version.
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