View Full Version : Rattle Can Paint Job? Check this out
Picked up a bunch of various Rattle Can "Camo" paints. Rust-oleum now has its own line of "Camouflage" paints
Pic is kinda rough, but you can get the general idea.
Just thought Id make a color pallet of whats out there to help you guys decide.
Colors used and as labeled in the picture(top down)
1. Rustoleum - Dark Taupe ------ Drys close to MagPul's FDE
2. Rustoleum - Khaki Camo ------ Drys very light
3. Rustoleum - Green Camo ------ Drys almost a Greenish Grey/Blue Grey, but still looks good
4. Krylon - OD Green ------ Drys a Blue Green, not a good color
5. Rustoleum - Army Green Camo ------ a very Yellow Green color. Not sure why its called Army Green
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y201/paintballaddict/Paintcolors.jpg
Hey JW, the sample of color pallet is a great idea; I'm a visual guy so I like the idea of seeing an example before deciding.D
Thanks jwfuhrman, I'm going to paint some parts on my upcoming build and was going to go with
krylon OD but now I'm thinkin' Rustoleum Dark Taupe since it "Drys close to MagPul's FDE". Any comment on durability of Rustoleum vs. Krylon on metal?
Only down side to Rustoleum's Dark Taupe has a slight shine to it when dry. I just use a piece of very fine sand paper and it took the shine off, and smoothed it up.
It also holds up alot better than Krylon did.
Have you tried the Krylon Ultra Flat Camo? It doesn't have a shine if you do it in warm weather.
yea, the Krylon OD Green Camo that is pictured is part of their Ultra Flat camo line. I have found NONE of the camo colors end up drying ANYTHING close to the colors they are supposed to represent, EXCEPT for Black... which obviously thats going to dry black.
I like Rustoleum Earth Brown.
http://i52.tinypic.com/fao2g3.jpg
Paraclete comes
02-24-11, 22:38
I have used in combination both krylon and rusto, bothe seem to hold up equally well. I have a few personal painted like this and have used the same combo on three or four work guns.
I like Rustoleum Earth Brown.
http://i52.tinypic.com/fao2g3.jpg
interesting, where can I find this paint at? Haven't seen it at a Wally World or a Hardware store(Ace, True Value, etc)
That's funny; all I can find here is Rustoleum; Menard's carries it. The colors work OK for me- I stick with the camo colors and black.
I've had pretty good luck with Rustoleum so far. My painted gun has been through all sorts of crappy weather and its held up fine. The high traffic areas (grip, cheek weld) tend to wear out a bit, though.
ha, wow, I just did a google search for the Rustoleum Earth Brown..... that was the 1 color I decided to NOT get while I was at the hardware store..... looks like Im getting it on my way home today... Thanks
The biggest problem here is that computer monitors all display colors differently, and the only way to get anything close to true color fidelity is to have a properly calibrated monitor, typically a high-end one.
The idea could be useful if the same person using the same camera on the same background took the pictures and then color corrected them and posted them up. Then you could have at least an idea of the variations, if not the true colors.
It's a good idea though, and I can see where it would be very useful for those trying to decide on paint colors. Hopefully, given the shortcomings of color reproduction with computer monitors, someone will still be able to do some comparisons with images like these.
That being said, if you're painting with rattle cans, do yourself a favor and find/order some Aervoe (http://www.aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Paints-and-Coatings/). It is superior for these applications over almost all others and is worth the wait.
I think jwfuhrman's idea is sound, especially if the "swatches" got grouped in a way that showed colors that work well together for specific environments, and that this thread could turn out to hold some useful information. In light of that, y'all might want to watch and not turn it into another painted rifle thread, lest it get folded into the existing one or closed by a mod.
$CashMoney$
02-25-11, 10:52
I've used a lot of different paint on different guns over the years and as expected, they wear over time. I always thought, no big deal, sand, clean, repeat.
I never thought to use a spray primer prior to painting. Has anyone tried this and noticed a difference, especially in high wear areas or in plastic parts? I may try it on some of the work guns.
I've used a lot of different paint on different guns over the years and as expected, they wear over time. I always thought, no big deal, sand, clean, repeat.
I never thought to use a spray primer prior to painting. Has anyone tried this and noticed a difference, especially in high wear areas or in plastic parts? I may try it on some of the work guns.
I'd like to know something similar. Anyone used a self-etching primer? I've used it on car parts and was curious if anyone had tried it on steel, plastic or aluminum rifle parts and whether the top coat lasted longer.
I use nothing but Aervoe camo paint. The "Light Coyote" is a dead match for FDE and the "Highland" is true Coyote Brown.
Mike:dirol:
Clod Stomper
02-25-11, 15:31
Good information here. I've used Duracoat a lot, but for my truck/coyote rifle, I have considered using the Krylon camo paints. But I hesitated to use it on the barrel. Does it stand up to a hot barrel without burning off?
I've never heard of Aervoe. I'm going to read up on it.
Thanks,
Will
Good information here. I've used Duracoat a lot, but for my truck/coyote rifle, I have considered using the Krylon camo paints. But I hesitated to use it on the barrel. Does it stand up to a hot barrel without burning off?
I've never heard of Aervoe. I'm going to read up on it.
Thanks,
Will
Will,
Skip the Krylon and go straight to Aervoe. It's hard to qualify in words except to say that it's just better quality paint all around. It goes on better and is more durable.
As far as it goes, I spray painted my barrel, and the only loss of paint has occurred at the flash hider. Of course, I'm not doing full-auto beta mag dumps, and YMMV, but a lot of people have painted their barrels and not had any problems with the paint burning off.
Grumpy MSG
02-25-11, 20:08
For those folks that were looking for them, if I remember correctly, the Krylon Camo: http://www.krylon.com/products/camouflage_paint_with_fusion_technology/
is available at Walmart, If I remember the colors available were black, khaki, olive and brown. The Rustoleum Camo which is available at Home Depot I think: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=124
The colors available were black, khaki, earth brown, forest green. I hope this helps the folks looking for them.
RogerinTPA
02-25-11, 20:39
I like Rustoleum Earth Brown.
http://i52.tinypic.com/fao2g3.jpg
That Earth Brown looks great. :cool:
kingfisher2
02-27-11, 15:06
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/kingfisher2/1116.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/kingfisher2/1115.jpg
I used Camo Paint and the rubber stuff that stops a silverware tray from sliding in the drawer to get the pattern.
warlord260
03-02-11, 20:30
very nice.
af22raptor
03-09-11, 01:35
jwfuhrman,
Thanks for the Great info on the different paints I have been considering painting my AR project and your heads up on the paint has given me a starting point to get an interesting camo paint scheme to finish off the project. I have taken my old post ban Bushmaster and updated the furniture and changed out all of the springs and pins and also added rail systems and even swapped out the AK74 5.5 inch compensator on my 11.5 inch Heavy Barrel to a CAR-15 5.5 inch Flash Hider and what a difference in weight did it make. I stopped by my local Home Depot and Wally world today to get some Rustolium and Krylon to get do the paint jobs this weekend. All 3 of my uppers are going to get sprayed
5.56NATO 11.5" w/5.5 CAR flash hider
7.62x39 Colt 16" HBAR
.223 24" Stainless Bull Barrel
right now I am trying to figure out the best way to get the stainless painted. I figured that scuffing the barrel with some 800 grit wet/dry sand paper will give enough to get the paint to attach but I am still wondering if I should get some etching/primer paint to make the job easier.
ANY and ALL COMMENTS in how to get the SS barrel done are WELCOME!
On my 18" BCM Mk12 build which uses their SS410 barrel, I used high heat rustoleum paint it is for refinishing Grills. Its flat black and takes a day or 2 to completely dry but it turned out pretty damn good.
when painting barrels, u need to use a high heat resistant paint like the grill paint I used of a engine paint. Something that won't flake and crack off when it gets super hot.
Make sure you expose any fresh surface to air for awhile, about the time it would take rust to form, has to passivate so chromium on surface oxidizes, otherwise there's a chance it will corrode.
Edit to add: Paint really isnt best option for stainless but it sounds like you want the ''rattle can'' job. Normally I'd say get it powder coated (don't think 400 degrees would effect the heat treat, but not sure) or just bead blasted.
af22raptor
03-09-11, 09:39
Thanks for the info!
I was thinking about getting the SS barrel CeraKoted but I figured that a Spray job would be easier and if I dont like it or change my mind I can always take off the paint and go to another color scheme. I plan play with it for a while before I make my mind up on the scheme I want then go with a permanent coating.
What about bare aluminum? How would you paint a bare aluminum surface?
What about bare aluminum? How would you paint a bare aluminum surface?
Zinc chromate primer followed by some sort of polyurethane paint, in a perfect world. Would rather have it anodized if it was going to be handled a lot though.
I just bought & tried Birchwood Casey Aluminum Blue, although it works well on small nicks & spots, its not the best solution for large bare surfaces. I did look at B.wood-Casy website and saw something new that be the answer. Anyone try it yet?
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/metal/lumiclad.html
hi, i have a couple questions regarding painting a magazine. I have two of those USGI mag with the dry film finish that looks all beat up and stuff. What would be a proper procedure to paint them? Do i need to get some sand paper and sand them down first? or just straight up spray paint them. Also should i leave them under the sun for some hours? Any suggestion would help, thanks
Birddog1911
03-09-11, 22:02
Well, since we're talking about paint jobs, here's a rattle can job that I'm very happy with.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL017.jpg
Bad lighting of complete rifle:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/Rifles002.jpg
Another stock:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/Mar2010010.jpg
NoveskeFan
03-09-11, 22:37
Well, since we're talking about paint jobs, here's a rattle can job that I'm very happy with.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL017.jpg
Bad lighting of complete rifle:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/Rifles002.jpg
Another stock:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/Mar2010010.jpg
I really like the look of that!
Birddog1911
03-10-11, 07:45
You should see how well it blends into the prarie grass here:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL013.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL014.jpg
zombie killer
07-29-11, 13:31
Thanks for this OP, I used rustoleum dark taupe on my Glock frame today and I was so pleased I painted my pistol case.
how durable is Krylon on plastic parts? I understand there are Krylon "plastic" paints but are the parts on an AR the type of plastic this paint is made for?
The Krylon Plastic paint just bonds better to plastics than regular Krylon. I actually think the durability is lower on the Krylon "Plastic" paint - at least it has been for me.
I like the Krylon OD green and found they hold up surprisingly well..
I have done quote a few..
this is still my favorite (a .68)
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/2386/reconcoker.jpg
chuckocaster
07-30-11, 22:08
the colors look fine to me on the krylon.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/chuckocaster/stampede10.jpg
Here's a couple of pics of mine. I still need to get some pics of it out in the field
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/Misc/IMG_5951.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/Misc/IMG_5952.jpg
hi, i have a couple questions regarding painting a magazine. I have two of those USGI mag with the dry film finish that looks all beat up and stuff. What would be a proper procedure to paint them? Do i need to get some sand paper and sand them down first? or just straight up spray paint them. Also should i leave them under the sun for some hours? Any suggestion would help, thanks
I use 20 rounders in my Patrol Rifle. They looked pretty rough so I used a "no scratch" pad to wipe it down thoroughly and smooth it out. I put the mag in the gun and mark it at the magwell all the way around with a Sharpie. Take it out and tape off the top part that goes in the magwell, wipe it down with alcohol, air dry then spray it the exposed bottom part.
The Krylon Plastic paint just bonds better to plastics than regular Krylon. I actually think the durability is lower on the Krylon "Plastic" paint - at least it has been for me.
ok, so the Krylon that everyone is saying to use is NOT the Plastic stuff. is there some reason that Krylon is mentioned more often than any other spray paint?
Christopher
07-06-14, 12:26
I like the Krylon OD green and found they hold up surprisingly well..
I have done quote a few..
this is still my favorite (a .68)
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/2386/reconcoker.jpg
Very nice! Glad i found this thread, thanks everyone.
You should see how well it blends into the prarie grass here:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL013.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/Birddog4570/PSL014.jpg
Impressive
sevenhelmet
08-11-14, 10:42
Here's a couple of pics of mine. I still need to get some pics of it out in the field
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/Misc/IMG_5951.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/Misc/IMG_5952.jpg
I know this was 3 years ago, but I have to ask... Did you actually PAINT the light pipe on your ACOG? :confused:
I know this was 3 years ago, but I have to ask... Did you actually PAINT the light pipe on your ACOG? :confused:
Good lord I hope not. It looks masked off to me though.
SavageBrew84
08-11-14, 11:55
Considering the placement and orientation of his BUIS, it wouldn't surprise me one bit!
Flankenstein
08-11-14, 14:51
Considering the placement and orientation of his BUIS, it wouldn't surprise me one bit!
LOL...
I think it's a halfway clever idea (provided it was effective), beats running buis under Acog... I still would have had to orient them facing forward tho.
I think it's a halfway clever idea (provided it was effective), beats running buis under Acog... I still would have had to orient them facing forward tho.
Not clever at all considering it's a magnified optic meaning the irons would be useless until you removed the acog. But that's assuming it's actually an acog and not a airsoft red dot just meant to look like one.
Not clever at all considering it's a magnified optic meaning the irons would be useless until you removed the acog. But that's assuming it's actually an acog and not a airsoft red dot just meant to look like one.Ah yup, your right forgot about that (limited exp with one).
SavageBrew84
08-11-14, 15:59
I'll give you the "halfway" part. It would seem to me that in it's current configuration that a G17 just might have a longer sight radius and at that point, if the ACOG were to fail you might simply want you go directly to your secondary weapon ;)
The other thing that eludes me is, why paint it sans trigger guard?
I'll give you the "halfway" part. It would seem to me that in it's current configuration that a G17 just might have a longer sight radius and at that point, if the ACOG were to fail you might simply want you go directly to your secondary weapon ;)
The other thing that eludes me is, why paint it sans trigger guard?Agreed, was trying to give OP of pic benifit of doubt. I'm mainly a irons and micro dot guy... That likes to transition to G19 (:D) secondary.
But enough of my lack of knowledge in all things ACOG, back to thread topic.:D
sevenhelmet
08-17-14, 09:36
I think it's a halfway clever idea (provided it was effective), beats running buis under Acog... I still would have had to orient them facing forward tho.
Is there something wrong with running BUIS under an ACOG? They're BUis. I have my ACOG on a quick-detach mount- co-witnessing obviously isn't an option with a magnified optic.
That said, I think the pictures above were intended as a joke. At least, I hope they were...
Is there something wrong with running BUIS under an ACOG? They're BUis. I have my ACOG on a quick-detach mount- co-witnessing obviously isn't an option with a magnified optic.
That said, I think the pictures above were intended as a joke. At least, I hope they were...
I already addressed that. Read the comments between to one you quoted and your own.
I think it's time we either get back on topic with this thread or it ended.
Please no more commenting about sight orientation.
the Walmarts in my area of S. FL have all stopped getting the Krylon camo colors and now stock the Rustoleum. Some of the earlier posts mention the Aervoe camo paint. I used a lot of Aervoe about ten years ago. They have a good selection of colors that are true to mil camo and it is very flat. In my area it was only sold at a few Mil Surplus stores.
I've used Aervoe paints on a couple of rifles with good results that have held up well. The only grip that didn't hold up well was one with a rubber coat. DSG Arms carries Aervoe paint. There are lots of rifles in the "painted" sub forum done with Aervoe.
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