View Full Version : couple or questions real quick.
Well I shot some wobble trap today and had fun. After that I sent some rounds thru the AR.
My AR is a Bushmaster and so far it has been great, anyways,,,
I noticed that it "looks" like I have the M4 feed ramps, it also is good that the carrier keys are properly staked. This makes me happy.
So my questions are: When cleaning the rifle or any fire arm, I like to put a light coat of oil on the outside of the weapon. The Ar's finish makes it hard to do with patches and some towels. How do you guys coat the outside in a quick manner?
Also, I have no need to shoot more than 100 yards. Where do you guys zero your sights and then hold over or under from there? I am thinking 75 yards and then compensate from there, sound good?
Thanks!
I use Rem oil in aerosol can. Just spray the rifle let t sit and then wipe off with a silicone rag.
I usually zero my irons at 50 yards.
I like WD-40. Kinda nostalgic and supposedly non-toxic. From some tests I've seen posted it protects very well also.
My irons are zeroed at 50 also.
WD-40 is crap for weapons.
I like WD-40. Kinda nostalgic and supposedly non-toxic. From some tests I've seen posted it protects very well also.
My irons are zeroed at 50 also.
WD-40 is crap for weapons.
+1
except if you give your weapon a water bath! For example, firing corrosive ammo (not a factor in 556 AR but in a 5.45x39 it could be). After using WD40 in the nooks and crannies to get rid of the water, you then lube normally.
(I know you know this IG, just for posterity who read this thread later)
It was suggested to me from this site to use a dedicated paint brush to coat the rifle with whatever oil you want to use. This gets in the nooks and crannys very well and pretty quickly.
WD-40 leaves a nasty film on stuff, I'd steer clear of it.
It was suggested to me from this site to use a dedicated paint brush to coat the rifle with whatever oil you want to use. This gets in the nooks and crannys very well and pretty quickly.
I actually thought about doing that. right now I am just using oil that comes in Gun cleaning kits.
Thanks for all the responses.
I just need to get some man or animal sized targets and Zero in my Aimpoint and then learn how to comp. for different ranges.
Cesiumsponge
03-05-11, 20:15
WD-40 is good for getting water out of stuff. Once the volatiles evaporate, it becomes gummy crap. Don't use WD-40 unless you're trying to displace water out of something that fell into a puddle.
WD-40 is good for getting water out of stuff. Once the volatiles evaporate, it becomes gummy crap. Don't use WD-40 unless you're trying to displace water out of something that fell into a puddle.
Roger that. I have known that, thanks!
WD-40 is crap for weapons.
The OP asked about protecting the outside of his weapon. Not lube. I've used WD-40 to wipe down my guns since 1975. I used to bird hunt a lot, shoot skeet occasionally (skeet range is where first saw "everyone" using WD-40). I wipe down my weapons everytime I handle them. And, none has any rust or "gummy" substance on them. I use WD-40 to clean and protect and remove water, if needed. NOT lube.
WD-40 is good for getting water out of stuff. Once the volatiles evaporate, it becomes gummy crap. Don't use WD-40 unless you're trying to displace water out of something that fell into a puddle.
This - 100%
Not sure I understand the purpose of coating the outside of the rifle with anything actually. It is anodized aluminum. Aluminum doesn't rust. Sure it corrodes, but when it corrodes it corrodes into aluminum oxide which actually protects it from further corrosion. Unlike iron which when it rusts, it exposes more metal and the vicious cycle begins.
I believe that coating your rifle with anything only attracts dust and debris. I could see putting a light coat of oil on say something like the outside of the barrel. But coating the receiver is rubbish in my opinion.
but then again, if it is shiny it means it is a top tier rifle.... :sarcastic:
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd piggyback as I'm curious about a similar thing:
I just ran the Vickers class yesterday and it poured all day. I wiped the rifle down before I put it away, but I have a long rail. Do I need to take the rail off and dry the outside of the barrel? Probably too late now. Should I spray some WD-40 on the barrel through the rail? Or will it all be ok?
Thanks!
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd piggyback as I'm curious about a similar thing:
I just ran the Vickers class yesterday and it poured all day. I wiped the rifle down before I put it away, but I have a long rail. Do I need to take the rail off and dry the outside of the barrel? Probably too late now. Should I spray some WD-40 on the barrel through the rail? Or will it all be ok?
Thanks!
I would spray it down. But, if you're not careful it could gum up the whole works and the rifle may never fire again! After all, WD-40 is crap for guns. :laugh:
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I use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to displace water. It mixes with the water, speeds up evaporation, doesn't leave crap (like WD40) behind, inexpensive, and readily available.
After I douche it well with alcohol, I heat the gun up with a blow dryer and then keep it warm for 10-15 minutes. Then, I put oil, grease, etc. on the gun that I want on the gun while it is warm. The heat helps the oils or greases migrate into the nooks and crannys,you just degreased.
I like to take the plastic bottle of alcohol and poke a 3/32"-1/8" hole in the seal and use it as a squirt bottle. I try to use the 91% alcohol that Wal-Mart sells but I have used the 70% when that was all you can find.
But maybe it's just me...
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I use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to displace water. It mixes with the water, speeds up evaporation, doesn't leave crap (like WD40) behind, inexpensive, and readily available.
<snip>
I like to take the plastic bottle of alcohol and poke a 3/32"-1/8" hole in the seal and use it as a squirt bottle. I try to use the 91% alcohol that Wal-Mart sells but I have used the 70% when that was all you can find.
But maybe it's just me...
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Alcohol does not displace water. It may mix with water but it does not displace it. In fact, the 91" or 70% you cite is mixed with water so you are sticking water on your gun when you do that. Might as well just use the hairdryer.
I don't know why you are doing any of that crap anyways. I have a BCm upper on a spikes lower (go figure) that I take out in the rain, mud, and dirt all the time and I never do anything special to the exterior or interior. I just keep the BCG and BCG rail contact points lubed and keep shooting it.
OP: Unless you live in a light house next to the ocean or are on a boat in the middle of the ocean, I doubt you need to do anything.
BTW: I live in Seattle. There is water here all the time. I deal with it and so does my rifle.
Isopropyl Alcohol is very good for removing water. It does not displace it, but it does break the surface tension, mix with it and cause it to evaporate more thoroughly. WD-40 displaces water but it does nothing to assist in drying.
WD-40 does leave a residue, but this is more of a problem over time with internal parts. Since WD-40 displaces water but does not evaporate it, WD-40 can promote rust when used to protect a firearm which is then stored in a gun case. The problem is worse when the gun case is wool lined. WD-40 and a wool lining is particularly destructive to nickel plating.
The aluminum receivers of the AR aren't prone to corroding, but the CMV steel barrels are parkerized and require oiling for maximum corrosion protection
Ok, well let me clarify. WD-40 and firearms shouldn't really mix in my opinion. Also, the AR is primarily made of aluminum which doesn't need to be wiped down. The barrel is about the only thing that does.
The OP asked about protecting the outside of his weapon. Not lube. I've used WD-40 to wipe down my guns since 1975. I used to bird hunt a lot, shoot skeet occasionally (skeet range is where first saw "everyone" using WD-40). I wipe down my weapons everytime I handle them. And, none has any rust or "gummy" substance on them. I use WD-40 to clean and protect and remove water, if needed. NOT lube.
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Alcohol actively mixes with water and lowers the boiling temperature requiring less heat to evaporate the water out of the tight places. When the alcohol/water mixture evaporates, it doesn’t leave the “varnish” behind that WD40 does.
I would think the biggest concern for rust on a wet AR would be the areas that aren’t easily disassembled, like barrel nut & castle nut threads, between barrel nut and barrel, detents, springs, misc. pins, etc.
The only good uses I found for WD40, was spraying in the old distributor caps with points when they got wet and to remove the sticky left by price tags.
An old gunsmith told me 40-years ago, that if they quit selling WD40, he’d lose about 75% of his gun repairs. I think that is why IG stated "WD40 and guns don't mix".
WD40 does very well at displacing "reliability" when mixed with guns.
But maybe it's just me...
.
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I would think the biggest concern for rust on a wet AR would be the areas that aren’t easily disassembled, like barrel nut & castle nut threads, between barrel nut and barrel, detents, springs, misc. pins, etc.
The only good uses I found for WD40, was spraying in the old distributor caps with points when they got wet and to remove the sticky left by price tags.
An old gunsmith told me 40-years ago, that if they quit selling WD40, he’d lose about 75% of his gun repairs. I think that is why IG stated "WD40 and guns don't mix".
WD40 does very well at displacing "reliability" when mixed with guns.
But maybe it's just me...
.
The only times I have used WD40 on a firearm (an AR) was when I had done a high water pressure cleaning on them before selling them to get gunk out, dirt, grime, etc. I then used WD40 to get the water out of the nooks and crannies. I then lubed it with real gun lube etc and wiped down the outside with real gun oil.
I agree I would not use WD40 as any sort of lube. However, it does a good job of getting water out of the nooks and crannies, and when you lube it afterwards with real lube, say WeaponShield for example, no "varnish" is left behind in those places that count (and I never saw any anywhere anyway since I was using it as water displacer, not lube, and got rid of the WD40 after it had done its job).
If I were actively shooting a 5.45x39 with corrosive, I would use a water bath and then WD40 afterwards and then real lube after that.
I would not use WD40 as any sort of long term lube or preservative.
I wipe down the barrel with the oily rag I cleaned with. I don't bother with anything else that isn't steel.
WD40 sucks for guns.
RemOil sucks too. Use a quality lubricant.
Well I shot some wobble trap today and had fun. After that I sent some rounds thru the AR.
My AR is a Bushmaster and so far it has been great, anyways,,,
I noticed that it "looks" like I have the M4 feed ramps, it also is good that the carrier keys are properly staked. This makes me happy.
So my questions are: When cleaning the rifle or any fire arm, I like to put a light coat of oil on the outside of the weapon. The Ar's finish makes it hard to do with patches and some towels. How do you guys coat the outside in a quick manner?
Also, I have no need to shoot more than 100 yards. Where do you guys zero your sights and then hold over or under from there? I am thinking 75 yards and then compensate from there, sound good?
Thanks!
Don't bother putting lube on the outside of your AR.
Common zero's are 50yd and 100M. So go either one, but not a 75yd zero.
C4
Thank you guys for all the info.
This is the best stuff I have found for spraying the outside of your gun (after it has rained): http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amp.aspx
C4
WD-40 is crap for weapons.
it's worse than crap. it will dry out and leave a varnish which puts a whole new meaning to the words "gum up the works"...
This is the best stuff I have found for spraying the outside of your gun (after it has rained): http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amp.aspx
C4
That's essentially petroleum jelly + white naptha/mineral turpentine... It's all about preference but *shrug*
mkmckinley
03-07-11, 18:43
I've always just used CLP after I get my guns wet. It seems to do just fine and it's cheap. I've also been dowsing my new 5.45 M&P in the Ballistol/water mix recommended by Templar and that seems to do really well. By heating up the mixture you heat up the metal and it becomes kind of self drying, leaving the oil behind as a rust preventative. I then just clean the internals and bore as I normally would with CLP. This may not work for everyone but so far it's been working for me.
Well I shot some wobble trap today and had fun. After that I sent some rounds thru the AR.
My AR is a Bushmaster and so far it has been great, anyways,,,
I noticed that it "looks" like I have the M4 feed ramps, it also is good that the carrier keys are properly staked. This makes me happy.
So my questions are: When cleaning the rifle or any fire arm, I like to put a light coat of oil on the outside of the weapon. The Ar's finish makes it hard to do with patches and some towels. How do you guys coat the outside in a quick manner?
Also, I have no need to shoot more than 100 yards. Where do you guys zero your sights and then hold over or under from there? I am thinking 75 yards and then compensate from there, sound good?
Thanks!
Oh. BTW. Your bushmaster is crap. In case nobody here has told you yet!:sarcastic:
warlord260
03-07-11, 22:17
Today a good friend was telling me how happy he was with his new ar, an(OLY), i didnt have the heart to tell him.
Today a good friend was telling me how happy he was with his new ar, an(OLY), i didnt have the heart to tell him.
Happy is a state of mind, not a measurable attribute. -.-
Zero at 25m. You will also be zeroed for 200m. Even the military zeros at 25m (yards). Just keep in mind that at 50m and 100m you will be a smidgen high. I would say about 1MOA or less. If you are trying for extreme accuracy, then zero at 100m but if you are trying for tactical/battle type accuracy, the just zero at 25m.
Zero at 25m. You will also be zeroed for 200m. Even the military zeros at 25m (yards). Just keep in mind that at 50m and 100m you will be a smidgen high. I would say about 1MOA or less. If you are trying for extreme accuracy, then zero at 100m but if you are trying for tactical/battle type accuracy, the just zero at 25m.
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Not true.
Zero at 50 and you be back on the target somewhere around 200 but you should verify and not assume the exact range.
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Today a good friend was telling me how happy he was with his new ar, an(OLY), i didnt have the heart to tell him.
Yeah a good neighbor of mine has a DPMS Carbine (M4'gery) without M4 feedramps and I don't have the heart to tell him. But at least he has an XCR which is a great rifle as well. So he has at least one very good tactical SHTF rifle.
Oh. BTW. Your bushmaster is crap. In case nobody here has told you yet!:sarcastic:
NOT nice, I like it for what I will need it for. :)
Zero at 25m. You will also be zeroed for 200m. Even the military zeros at 25m (yards). Just keep in mind that at 50m and 100m you will be a smidgen high. I would say about 1MOA or less. If you are trying for extreme accuracy, then zero at 100m but if you are trying for tactical/battle type accuracy, the just zero at 25m.
This is incorrect. A 50 is close at 200 but its not exact
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=65679
EDIT: Oops I see ucrt beat me to it.
As others have said, the exterior of the rifle is mostly aluminum, so you don't really need to apply any "protective" coating, except maybe the barrel.
I use Eezox "Gun Care" on all my firearms, excellent rust prevention:
http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
Hey, I finally made my first post.
As others have said, the exterior of the rifle is mostly aluminum, so you don't really need to apply any "protective" coating, except maybe the barrel.
I use Eezox "Gun Care" on all my firearms, excellent rust prevention:
http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
Hey, I finally made my first post.
Thanks
And thanks for wasting your first post on me! :p
WD-40 leaves a nasty film on stuff, I'd steer clear of it.
It smells good though. And the fish LOVE it. I spray it on some of my lures. I'm not kidding.
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EEzox is the best I've found, plus I've seen several rust test and Eezox is pretty much always on top.
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