R-762wt
03-12-11, 18:39
Hey guys,
Long time listener, first time caller (poster). Just wanted to spread the info on a project I have been working on over the last few weeks. I had the opportunity to use some nicer rifle stocks while in the USMC (04'-08'). Since getting out and being a civilian I have had to realize that money and time are limited resources...mostly money in my position as a college student. Basically I wanted to put together a stock with many high end features on a college student budget. The three thread series I put together chronicles the project from start to finish.
In this thread I will explain how to install flush cups into a Bell and Carlson light tactical stock. There will be two more to follow. One on installing a picatinny rail and another on applying a textured surface to the stock and then finishing it off. Heres what it looks like in the end:
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0798.jpg
Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith, I use common tools and consider myself slightly below average intelligence (when sober).
Here we go...
Tools needed to complete the project:
-Hand drill
-9/16” drill bit
-1/2” drill bit
-1/4” hex head bit
-Sand paper
-Exacto knife
-Masking tape
-Q-Tips
-Rubber goves
-Hand file
-Sandwich bag
-Dremel helps a lot, but not necessary
Materials needed
-Bell and Carlson light tactical stock ($200-$220)
-6 Grovetec sling swivels ($1.50 per swivel)
- 2” Section of picitanny rail ($10+)
-Marine Tex epoxy ($12-$18)
-JB weld epoxy ($6)
-Your flavor of spray paint ($?)
Step 1: Figure out where you want to have your flush cups mounted. I just used the existing sling swivels as reference points. I wanted 3 cups up front and 3 in the rear, but the process can be critiqued for your needs.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0735.jpg
Step 2: Drill the holes. You are going to start by using the 9/16” drill and only drill down about 2/16” just to get passes the jell coat. This will prevent chipping and cracking the jell coat. Then switch over to a 1/2” drill bit and drill just down over ½” into the stock. This little bit of extra room will give the epoxy a place to pool.
Notes on step 2: I used a small drill press, but I am confident that with a steady hand and MRK1 precision eyeball you could do this with a hand drill. When drilling the front holes I ran in to the alumina block in the stock; only had to go about ¼” into it. The rear of the stock is hollow, at almost ½” thick you will just break through into the cavity when you get to the correct depth. I initially had some apprehensions about how well this would hold the cups…more to come on this.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0739.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0740.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0753.jpg
Step 3: Prepare your flush cups to be mounted by de-greasing them, and then get everything together you will need to complete the epoxy process.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0742.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0743.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0744.jpg
Step 4: Once everything is collected you will need about ½ of the JB weld in the tube to mount all 6 flush cups, so mix it according to the directions. Then with a Q-tip apply some JB weld one of the holes for mounting (see pic). Once the epoxy has been applied, take a hand drill with a ¼” hex bit and set up a flush cup as pictured (see cup on bit). At this point you are ready to place your first cup. Keeping the cup level with the surface of the stock begin to slowly screw it into the hole. It should go in fairly easy. Set the cups to the desired depth.
Notes on step 4: You have enough time to set all the cups before the epoxy gets tacky. It shouldn’t take more than 15 minuets to get them all in. I tried using a ¼ allen key to set the cups at first and they wouldn’t go in level. It was a huge pain in the ass and messy. Using a drill on the last 3 made it a piece of cake. They went in effortlessly and were easy to keep level. I set the rear cups almost flush with the stock and the front cups slightly above the stock because I plan on applying a texture.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0746.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0759.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0794.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0736.jpg
Step 5: Once the cups are in I went back and put some epoxy around the lips of the cups to try to give it a little extra strength. I put less on the rear and more on the front because they were slightly above the level of the stock. Once the epoxy dried (24 hours) I sanded the rear cups to blend in with the stock and just took down any big epoxy bumps on the front swivels
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0747.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0764.jpg
At this point you are more or less done with the flush cup instillation. If this is as far as you want to go just slap some paint on the cup area and call your self good to go.
Are these durable? That was the biggest question on my mind. I wasn’t expecting a McMillan quality job, but I don’t want my rifle falling off in the slightest breeze either. Soooo….
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0755.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0756.jpg
I tested every swivel and it would hold 45lbs of weight. I didn’t try to max it out and break my stock, but I figured 45lbs would be a reasonable standard to at least indicate that it was load bearing. I will report back if I notice them failing with heavy use or if they end up standing up to some abuse.
Next in the Series: Picatinny rail install.
Long time listener, first time caller (poster). Just wanted to spread the info on a project I have been working on over the last few weeks. I had the opportunity to use some nicer rifle stocks while in the USMC (04'-08'). Since getting out and being a civilian I have had to realize that money and time are limited resources...mostly money in my position as a college student. Basically I wanted to put together a stock with many high end features on a college student budget. The three thread series I put together chronicles the project from start to finish.
In this thread I will explain how to install flush cups into a Bell and Carlson light tactical stock. There will be two more to follow. One on installing a picatinny rail and another on applying a textured surface to the stock and then finishing it off. Heres what it looks like in the end:
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0798.jpg
Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith, I use common tools and consider myself slightly below average intelligence (when sober).
Here we go...
Tools needed to complete the project:
-Hand drill
-9/16” drill bit
-1/2” drill bit
-1/4” hex head bit
-Sand paper
-Exacto knife
-Masking tape
-Q-Tips
-Rubber goves
-Hand file
-Sandwich bag
-Dremel helps a lot, but not necessary
Materials needed
-Bell and Carlson light tactical stock ($200-$220)
-6 Grovetec sling swivels ($1.50 per swivel)
- 2” Section of picitanny rail ($10+)
-Marine Tex epoxy ($12-$18)
-JB weld epoxy ($6)
-Your flavor of spray paint ($?)
Step 1: Figure out where you want to have your flush cups mounted. I just used the existing sling swivels as reference points. I wanted 3 cups up front and 3 in the rear, but the process can be critiqued for your needs.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0735.jpg
Step 2: Drill the holes. You are going to start by using the 9/16” drill and only drill down about 2/16” just to get passes the jell coat. This will prevent chipping and cracking the jell coat. Then switch over to a 1/2” drill bit and drill just down over ½” into the stock. This little bit of extra room will give the epoxy a place to pool.
Notes on step 2: I used a small drill press, but I am confident that with a steady hand and MRK1 precision eyeball you could do this with a hand drill. When drilling the front holes I ran in to the alumina block in the stock; only had to go about ¼” into it. The rear of the stock is hollow, at almost ½” thick you will just break through into the cavity when you get to the correct depth. I initially had some apprehensions about how well this would hold the cups…more to come on this.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0739.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0740.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0753.jpg
Step 3: Prepare your flush cups to be mounted by de-greasing them, and then get everything together you will need to complete the epoxy process.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0742.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0743.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0744.jpg
Step 4: Once everything is collected you will need about ½ of the JB weld in the tube to mount all 6 flush cups, so mix it according to the directions. Then with a Q-tip apply some JB weld one of the holes for mounting (see pic). Once the epoxy has been applied, take a hand drill with a ¼” hex bit and set up a flush cup as pictured (see cup on bit). At this point you are ready to place your first cup. Keeping the cup level with the surface of the stock begin to slowly screw it into the hole. It should go in fairly easy. Set the cups to the desired depth.
Notes on step 4: You have enough time to set all the cups before the epoxy gets tacky. It shouldn’t take more than 15 minuets to get them all in. I tried using a ¼ allen key to set the cups at first and they wouldn’t go in level. It was a huge pain in the ass and messy. Using a drill on the last 3 made it a piece of cake. They went in effortlessly and were easy to keep level. I set the rear cups almost flush with the stock and the front cups slightly above the stock because I plan on applying a texture.
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0746.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0759.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0794.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0736.jpg
Step 5: Once the cups are in I went back and put some epoxy around the lips of the cups to try to give it a little extra strength. I put less on the rear and more on the front because they were slightly above the level of the stock. Once the epoxy dried (24 hours) I sanded the rear cups to blend in with the stock and just took down any big epoxy bumps on the front swivels
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0747.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0764.jpg
At this point you are more or less done with the flush cup instillation. If this is as far as you want to go just slap some paint on the cup area and call your self good to go.
Are these durable? That was the biggest question on my mind. I wasn’t expecting a McMillan quality job, but I don’t want my rifle falling off in the slightest breeze either. Soooo….
http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0755.jpghttp://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz332/recon762wt/DSCN0756.jpg
I tested every swivel and it would hold 45lbs of weight. I didn’t try to max it out and break my stock, but I figured 45lbs would be a reasonable standard to at least indicate that it was load bearing. I will report back if I notice them failing with heavy use or if they end up standing up to some abuse.
Next in the Series: Picatinny rail install.