How to install a flash suppressor?

[watchluvr4ever]

I am thinking about getting one of those FSC556's and installing it myself. I have read stuff about timing and what not and I'm really not sure what that is. :confused: Just how difficult is it to install one of those? Any insight given would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!

[Robb Jensen]

If you buy one of the SureFire flash suppressors/brakes you can the the timing wheel (it's printed on a piece of paper) which makes the mount installation about a 10min job. The pieces of peel washer are pre measured so that you don't have to keep peeling a piece of and trying over and over.

[watchluvr4ever]

I can't find the Surefire FS that you're taking about. :confused:

[AR15barrels]

Most flash suppressors get installed with a crush washer.
You remove the old muzzle device and install the new one.
Small end of the crush washer points towards the gun, large end towards the muzzle device.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/crush-washer-installation.jpg

You simply tighten down the muzzle device until it aligns correctly.
The crush washer will crush as required.
You want to have at least 90 degrees of crush.
If you don't have that much when you first start tightening, go around another turn.

Then there are peel washers.
These are a stack of shims.
Use a lighter to de-laminate one side of the stack.
Then you can "peel" away as many as you need to obtain proper alignment when the muzzle device is tightened.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/washers.jpg

[markm]

Small end of the crush washer points towards the gun, large end towards the muzzle device.

Unless it's a Sig556! They put it on backwards on the gun I saw. I didn't even look right at all because it wasn't even centered on the barrel.

[Shihan]

Most flash suppressors get installed with a crush washer.
You remove the old muzzle device and install the new one.
Small end of the crush washer points towards the gun, large end towards the muzzle device.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/crush-washer-installation.jpg

You simply tighten down the muzzle device until it aligns correctly.
The crush washer will crush as required.
You want to have at least 90 degrees of crush.
If you don't have that much when you first start tightening, go around another turn.

Then there are peel washers.
These are a stack of shims.
Use a lighter to de-laminate one side of the stack.
Then you can "peel" away as many as you need to obtain proper alignment when the muzzle device is tightened.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/washers.jpg

Randall could you please describe 90 degrees of crush?
Thanks

[AR15barrels]

Randall could you please describe 90 degrees of crush?
Thanks

Start with a plain muzzle on a barrel that's mounted firmly in a vise.
Install the crush washer.
Hand tighten the muzzle device.
Take a wrench to the muzzle device with just one finger.
Begin tightening.
When one finger lightly pushing the wrench is no longer enough to turn the muzzle device, you have reached "snug"
Now look where the muzzle device is indexed.
If it indexes anywhere between 9:00 going clockwise to 12:00, you will need to go past 12:00 and make one complete turn back to 12:00.
If it indexes anywhere between 12:00 going clockwise to 9:00, just tighten it to 12:00.

[watchluvr4ever]

Great info thanks!

[Shihan]

I think a sticky is called for.

[2jet]

I just purchased a BC 2.0 and plan on installing it myself. I was wondering if you need to use any anti-seize type of grease on the threads for the install. Thanks

[MistWolf]

Use a light coat of grease. Also, use a thin tappet wrench instead of the regular width wrenches. I used a regular wrench when installing my Battlecomp and when the crush washer expanded, it trapped the wrench and it caused damage getting the wrench off
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/DSC_0120.jpg

[SomeOtherGuy]

A brand new FSC-556 actually comes with the PWS shim kit, which is 3 thicknesses of shims that do the same work as a peel washer but don't require you to heat and then manually peel a laminated peel washer. I find that the easiest route. Crush washers are easy too, unless you find that you're going to have to crush it 350 degrees (just under a full circle) for timing, which is a real PITA.

[ForTehNguyen]

I believe the proper torque is 45 degrees of rotation from finger tight? I mess with the shims until its 45 degrees or so from 6 oclock fingertight, then I tighten it down to the correct timing and it should be the right torque. Use a 3/4" wrench, dont use an adjustable, I couldnt get them to fit tight enough. I marred up my first attempt. Having an upper receiver action block an a vice helps a lot.

[indawire]

Having installed a BC 1.0 recently, I wanted to be certain I had the TDC correct. I might suggest using a pencil or narrow marking pen to line up the comp and or brake as soon as it's hand snug. That way when you get to your desired degree of compression you will have a reference point. You can also mark the desired end point so you can tell how much farther you have to go. Any do use the correct size wrench, adjustable wrenches usually have a much thicker set of jaws than the flats will accomadate (never tried it myself, read about it in a book somewhere) :no:

[Hmac]

I think a sticky is called for.

Indeed. The crush washer is one of the most misunderstood firearms accessories there is. It's such a simple concept that is so widely misunderstood and overthought.

That was a very thorough explanation.

[2jet]

Great info all. Thanks!!! Looking forward to getting the BC on the rifle.

[tarkeg]

I just purchased a BC 2.0 and plan on installing it myself. I was wondering if you need to use any anti-seize type of grease on the threads for the install. Thanks

Lots of different types of grease would work. But if you want to use the correct stuff, Loctite C5-A is it. Clean and degrease the threads of the barrel and the muzzle device first.

[elephantrider]

Here are two of the better muzzle device install tutorials I've found. They cover the tools and procedeure for both types of washers (crush and shim style). Peel washers are still available, but the shim kits seem like a more trouble free version of the peel washer. For those mounting a suppressor adapter, shim or peel style will be needed.

From Surefire:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWzs9JA4U4w&list=UU6YIe2ArdZ_K7ho0XLqgYgQ&index=6&feature=plcp

From ITS Tactical:
http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-flash-hider-installation/#more-11217

[Charlie Don't Surf]

Most flash suppressors get installed with a crush washer.
You remove the old muzzle device and install the new one.
Small end of the crush washer points towards the gun, large end towards the muzzle device.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/crush-washer-installation.jpg

You simply tighten down the muzzle device until it aligns correctly.
The crush washer will crush as required.
You want to have at least 90 degrees of crush.
If you don't have that much when you first start tightening, go around another turn.

Then there are peel washers.
These are a stack of shims.
Use a lighter to de-laminate one side of the stack.
Then you can "peel" away as many as you need to obtain proper alignment when the muzzle device is tightened.

http://ar15barrels.com/tech/washers.jpg

So I installed my FSC91 on a PTRGI with the crush washer on backwards. The timing is correct. Do I need to uninstall and correct this or will it not cause a problem? Is the washer ruined for future installations?

[markm]

So I installed my FSC91 on a PTRGI with the crush washer on backwards. The timing is correct. Do I need to uninstall and correct this or will it not cause a problem? Is the washer ruined for future installations?

Leave it.