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View Full Version : Broken Magpul trigger guard screw.



Kyohte
03-16-11, 12:11
It is exactly as the title says. During installation, the screw broke and is now stuck in the hole. I think it is too small for a screw reverser to get ahold of. What should I do?

JStor
03-16-11, 13:32
Your only option may be to drill...very carefully...in a drill press with the lower completely level.

MCS
03-16-11, 13:35
Like JStor said drill it out.

mildot
03-16-11, 13:45
I would pop off the other side and call Magpul for a replacement If that's an option?
I had a "first gen" SCAR selector and they replaced it no questions asked.
I didn't even have to return the old one.

Kyohte
03-16-11, 13:47
I was hoping to avoid power tools if possible. Anyone know the bit size off hand?

JChops
03-16-11, 13:48
I'm curious; how did it break? Cross-threaded it on entry or did you overtorque it (bottom it out)?

I've done close to a hundred of these with no issues whatsoever but I get guys telling me all the time that they break these screws with regularity.

jonconsiglio
03-16-11, 13:51
Is the screw all the way in and is the guard installed completely?

Kyohte
03-16-11, 13:59
Screw was half way in. Trigger guard is secure but the break is jagged. It really can't be cross-threaded since the receiver itself is not threaded. I have installed 3 of these before without issue.

DirectDrive
03-16-11, 15:06
I don't know if I would drill...the set screw is hardened steel and the aluminum lower is soft. If the drill bit drifts off you will do more damage.

If you're just trying to finish the install....
Shorten a roll pin and use that to cover the hole.

If for whatever reason I needed to take this guard out, I would probably plan on destroying the finger guard and take it out in pieces.
I wouldn't want to risk permanently damaging my lower.

Edit :
I took out the truss head machine screw option because that won't work for this.

DirectDrive
03-16-11, 15:12
Screw was half way in. Trigger guard is secure but the break is jagged. It really can't be cross-threaded since the receiver itself is not threaded. I have installed 3 of these before without issue.
Sometimes built up anodizing/coating (plus Loctite) can be too much for these fasteners to power through.
Running in a tap is a good idea prior to assembly. For drilled/tapped holes that are not daylighted, a "bottoming" tap is best.

Kyohte
03-16-11, 15:22
I was never keen on the idea of using the screw in an unthreaded hole even if it was steel vs aluminum. Maybe this time I got an extra hard anodizing. I think my first try will be to slot it and maybe get a small flat head in it. I really don't want to drill. Power tools and AR's make baby Jesus cry.

DirectDrive
03-16-11, 15:43
I was never keen on the idea of using the screw in an unthreaded hole even if it was steel vs aluminum. Maybe this time I got an extra hard anodizing. I think my first try will be to slot it and maybe get a small flat head in it. I really don't want to drill. Power tools and AR's make baby Jesus cry.
OK, so the set screw is still hanging outside the lower ?

Can you grab the broken set screw with a Vise-Grip and back it out ?

Kyohte
03-16-11, 15:49
Yes. I could not get grips around it. That would have been too simple. I won't get a chance to work on it again until late tonight though.

chadbag
03-16-11, 17:12
I had a small screw get stuck when doing some Heinie sights on my M&P last year. I don't remember the details but I ended up getting a really really small screw remover (you drill a hole in your bolt and then this goes in and reverse thread locks itself into place -- whatever those things are called) and was able to get it out... Maybe something like that would work.

Kyohte
03-16-11, 17:17
I had a small screw get stuck when doing some Heinie sights on my M&P last year. I don't remember the details but I ended up getting a really really small screw remover (you drill a hole in your bolt and then this goes in and reverse thread locks itself into place -- whatever those things are called) and was able to get it out... Maybe something like that would work.

The ones i have are too big. If slotting it does not work i will try to look for a smaller one.

Kyohte
03-16-11, 19:27
I got it out by cutting a slot in it. I sadly slipped and put a small nick in the lower (it is already beat up from use so I'm not too upset). I will contact magpul to see about a replacement tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. I have pictures if anyone is interested i will upload them.

usmcvet
03-16-11, 20:35
I'd like to see photos of the operation. Glad you got it out.

DirectDrive
03-16-11, 21:49
I got it out by cutting a slot in it. I sadly slipped and put a small nick in the lower (it is already beat up from use so I'm not too upset). I will contact magpul to see about a replacement tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. I have pictures if anyone is interested i will upload them.
Congrats on getting the thing out.
To hide the collateral damage, something like this might work:
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1149/magpul540.jpg (http://img826.imageshack.us/i/magpul540.jpg/)
I believe the thread size is 5-40

foolcrzy
03-19-11, 15:34
Good effort! I almost enjoy drilling out bolts/screws. Glad you didn't have to.