View Full Version : Is the Scout light becoming obsolete?
pointblank4445
03-18-11, 22:06
With the capabilites of the X300 (i.e. run time, brightness, weight, versatility), Is there much (other than a 30 Lumens) that the Scout offers over the X300?
I know there are some die-hard Scout guys out there; what are your thoughts?
I've never tested it, but how far can you positively ID someone at distance with the X300 versus the scout 300/600? I know when it comes to low light, you'll need to know it's a threat you're shooting at and I don't have a X300 handy to see if 25+ yards is capable. And would the X300 be more of a flood type of light while the scout be a beam type?
pointblank4445
03-18-11, 22:37
I have yet to have an issue with target ID w/ the X300. Granted, most of these situations have either been in urban areas with ambient light or close proximity. Unfortunately, we're required to use a 25y pistol range for all of our night shoots so I've yet to see what the range limits are for the light.
From memory, the x600 has only a slight range advantage on the X300. Been six months since I was at a night shoot.
I've been able to ID shoot/no shoot targets at 50 yds with an X300.
No problems at least that far.
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 01:19
Lots of overlap but each have their unique attributes.
I prefer the Scout lights...
The X300 has a very tight hot spot. Very different beam than say something like a 6P LED. Much more focused at the center, and much less spill. IMO, this makes it a very capable weapon light.
El Pistolero
03-19-11, 05:51
While we're on the subject, is there any difference in the beam of the X300 versus that of the Scout M600? I ask because I like how low profile the Scout is with some mounts but the X300 seems like it can be more versatile if needed by swapping the back end and switching it between handgun and long gun use. I always thought the X300 would be a flood light (for indoor/short range handgun use) while the Scout would be a thrower for rifle use but when I learned the X300 uses a TIR optic lens then I'm not so sure there is any real difference in actual use.
pointblank4445
03-19-11, 06:14
Lots of overlap but each have their unique attributes.
I prefer the Scout lights...
Ok.....why?
Is the Scout Light becoming obsolete? Apparently the USSOCOM doesn't belive so, as evidenced below.
SureFire Awarded Major Contract for USSOCOM Visible Bright Weapon--11/20/10
SureFire, LLC, manufacturer of high-end illumination tools and tactical products, has been awarded a contract for a Visible Bright Light III (VBL-III) in support of the U.S. Special Operations Command weapons accessories program.
The $14.9 million contract, for an indefinite quantity of SureFire weapon-mounted lights, was awarded by officials of the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Crane Division, in Crane, Indiana.
The objective of the VBL-III is to provide improved illumination capability for the small arms used by special operations forces. SureFire will be fulfilling the contract with its new “V-Series” LED WeaponLights, specifically, the M620V Scout Light® and M720V RAID™ light, both of which feature high-output white-light and infrared illumination from the same sealed unit. Unlike incandescent weapon-mounted lights, which require an infrared filter to produce enough infrared illumination for use with night vision devices, V-Series LED lights require no IR filter. To convert from white to IR light (or vice versa), the user need only twist the light’s self-locking selector ring, even on the fly.
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 11:41
Ok.....why?
With a mount like the Gear Sector you can get the light really close to the rail in an ideal position. Ive tried the 12' mounting of a X300 and its not for me....especially since 2/3 of the main guns I shoot have URX rails, and I don't want to lose the built in buis functionality nor buy another sight to make it work. I then also don't want to have to buy another tail cap thingy to run a tape switch.
The Scout light you can also change the head to the Vampire if I ever get around to running any NV stuff.
The Scout has a great many mounting options, activation options, head units, ect. The X300 is great for the 12' mounting but Im not into that. I love the way the scout with the GS mount huges the 1:30 position on the rail, and the SR07 switch works great from either side. An X300 would not improve on any of this, and cause some loss of functionality. If an X300 works for what you need the light to do then get that.
pointblank4445
03-19-11, 15:44
With a mount like the Gear Sector you can get the light really close to the rail in an ideal position. Ive tried the 12' mounting of a X300 and its not for me....especially since 2/3 of the main guns I shoot have URX rails, and I don't want to lose the built in buis functionality nor buy another sight to make it work. I then also don't want to have to buy another tail cap thingy to run a tape switch.
The Scout light you can also change the head to the Vampire if I ever get around to running any NV stuff.
The Scout has a great many mounting options, activation options, head units, ect. The X300 is great for the 12' mounting but Im not into that. I love the way the scout with the GS mount huges the 1:30 position on the rail, and the SR07 switch works great from either side. An X300 would not improve on any of this, and cause some loss of functionality. If an X300 works for what you need the light to do then get that.
Belmont, this is the kind of input i'm looking for. I've always been kind of luke-warm toward my current light setup, and i've "rocked around the clock" with my X300 at 3,6,9,and 12 and have pretty much found pros and cons for all. I've always kind of discounted it because I run a shorter rail and feared a "classic" shaped light would compromise my grip. I think the Scout maybe something to consider with the longer rails i'm playing with. Again, thanks for the input
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 16:10
Belmont, this is the kind of input i'm looking for. I've always been kind of luke-warm toward my current light setup, and i've "rocked around the clock" with my X300 at 3,6,9,and 12 and have pretty much found pros and cons for all. I've always kind of discounted it because I run a shorter rail and feared a "classic" shaped light would compromise my grip. I think the Scout maybe something to consider with the longer rails i'm playing with. Again, thanks for the input
They work really good with the longer rails and the SR07 switch. You can get a fully ambidextrous setup, and with the GS mount the light rides high up yet tucked against the rail really nicely. Another benefit to the longer rail setup is the further forward the light is the less barrel shadow you get.
I have this same setup on my SR15, too, which has a 10 3/4" rail. This one is 12".
Side:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj245/BM31R/f0be2178.jpg
Top:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj245/BM31R/62fc51cf.jpg
Hand position normal:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj245/BM31R/0bd39988.jpg
Hand position weak side:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj245/BM31R/ebfa0319.jpg
Belmont,
Got a few questions,
1) How focused is the beam on the scout light? Is it focused enough to ID targets out at distance? How far?
2) What kind of tape switch setup is that? Is it the one included with the light?
3) How easy is it to AD the light with a tape switch? That's really the only real reason I don't run one currently...I figure a push button setup has less chance of AD
The application for this setup is for an SBR for HD use at CQB distances....however I would like the capability to ID targets at distance...just in case ;)
EDIT: Is yours the mini scout or the M600C?
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 18:22
1. At least 50 yards. But your definition of ID'ing a target may be different than mine.
2. SR07. No its not.
3. The SR07 requires more force to activate than the regular tape switch, and the constant on/off button is protected (little round button the back). I was worried about AD of light, too, but it hasn't happened yet. You can always twist the end cap on the light so it wont activate. It only needs maybe a half turn to where it won't turn on. I experimented with an X300, and with the knobs on the back I AD'd it many times around the house. On the couch, resting it against a wall, ect.
4. Its the full size Scout with LED head.
Combat arms .mil perspective: I/we much prefer the Scout-style light due to its weight, focused throw and bomb-proof tailcap. I personally have experimented with X300s/TLRs as long-gun lights extensively and like the compact design and light weight, but I abhor the toggle switch. It is great for not having to drastically change hand position, and ambidextrous actuation, however I have experienced NDs when: storing it in a case, shooting asymmetric positions, and going hands-off, while the weapon is slung (by knocking into/bumping something, etc...). I simply have a myriad of experiences which contraindicate the use of a toggle switch for serious use.
Coming from the .mil side, where simplicity and ruggedness rule, the 'clickie' tailcap will be forever loved by those who carry long guns routinely. Weapon lights should stay off when not needed and turn on when you want them to, all the while being intuitive and simple. (Try walking through a palm grove or orchard with a tape switch during hours of limited visibility, only to have it suddenly get snagged and torn off.)
Therefore, my opinion driven from my personal experiences- toggle actuated lights (X300/TLR1/2/3) simply remain a less-optimal design for long guns that see multi-environmental hard use (day/night etc...).
All that said, take my experiences for what they are, as they may/may not apply to your needs/requirements.
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 19:09
Combat arms .mil perspective: I/we much prefer the Scout-style light due to its weight, focused throw and bomb-proof tailcap. I personally have experimented with X300s/TLRs as long-gun lights extensively and like the compact design and light weight, but I abhor the toggle switch. It is great for not having to drastically change hand position, and ambidextrous actuation, however I have experienced NDs when: storing it in a case, shooting asymmetric positions, and going hands-off, while the weapon is slung (by knocking into/bumping something, etc...). I simply have a myriad of experiences which contraindicate the use of a toggle switch for serious use.
Coming from the .mil side, where simplicity and ruggedness rule, the 'clickie' tailcap will be forever loved by those who carry long guns routinely. Weapon lights should stay off when not needed and turn on when you want them to, all the while being intuitive and simple. (Try walking through a palm grove or orchard with a tape switch during hours of limited visibility, only to have it suddenly get snagged and torn off.)
Therefore, my opinion driven from my personal experiences- toggle actuated lights (X300/TLR1/2/3) simply remain a less-optimal design for long guns that see multi-environmental hard use (day/night etc...).
All that said, take my experiences for what they are, as they may/may not apply to your needs/requirements.
Thus the cable is zip tied to the rail, and the SR07 itself is pretty secure on the rail.
Please don't take my post as an attack or that tape-switches/pressure switches are not totally viable. My primary intent was to convey for the OP that 1) The M300a/M600c are preferred over the X300 type series, mainly due to the switching methodology employed in pistol-type lights, and 2) to relay what worked for me and mine overseas. I see the merits of running pressure switches, especially when weapons begin to fill up with lights/lasers/vfg's, etc..., however my experiences have led me to the conclusion that the 'clickies' contribute less to white-light NDs, are more rugged, less of a snag hazard, etc...
I'm sure someone could go to certain lengths to ensure that a pressure switch performs as desired, however, even a ziptie does not prevent eventual damage caused from the wires being bent at steep angles and the actual 'plug-in' connector from becoming possibly damaged in the event of snags, drops, mud/grit/dust etc... As pressure switches improve (with the newer SR07 and the like), I see them becoming a durable option as well. Again, no offense intended, I'm just expounding upon my experiences and how they applied to me.
Great pics Belmont...a scout in a GS mount is unbeatable Ive found. I found a SR07 for $55 that will be here on Monday so I look forward to finally trying that way overpriced piece of kit out.
Belmont31R
03-19-11, 20:53
Please don't take my post as an attack or that tape-switches/pressure switches are not totally viable. My primary intent was to convey for the OP that 1) The M300a/M600c are preferred over the X300 type series, mainly due to the switching methodology employed in pistol-type lights, and 2) to relay what worked for me and mine overseas. I see the merits of running pressure switches, especially when weapons begin to fill up with lights/lasers/vfg's, etc..., however my experiences have led me to the conclusion that the 'clickies' contribute less to white-light NDs, are more rugged, less of a snag hazard, etc...
I'm sure someone could go to certain lengths to ensure that a pressure switch performs as desired, however, even a ziptie does not prevent eventual damage caused from the wires being bent at steep angles and the actual 'plug-in' connector from becoming possibly damaged in the event of snags, drops, mud/grit/dust etc... As pressure switches improve (with the newer SR07 and the like), I see them becoming a durable option as well. Again, no offense intended, I'm just expounding upon my experiences and how they applied to me.
Ive used a tape switch while deployed and never ran into crinked wires but maybe you guys were just a lot harder on stuff than we were. Tape switches are also part of the SOPMOD II kit.
Its just another option....and obviously run what works for you and what you're comfortable with.
I ran an X300 with the XT07 for awhile. The optional switch plate for the X300 incorporates an on/off toggle switch, and functions with or without the tape switch. I liked the idea of being able to flip the toggle with my thumb and disable the light. Plus, the X300 with the optional switch allows you a level of redundancy with the tape switch. Should the tape switch become damaged, you can unplug it and press on, just using the regular X300 toggles.
IMO, if used at the 9 o'clock, the XT07 is very close to the rail, resting on it. Much less of a snag hazard than some of the scout versions which place the tape switches plug farther off of the gun.
With rifle X300s, there is also a level of redundancy if you run one on a pistol. Should the light become damaged and non functional, you could in theory, swap it with the pistol light. This may be a moot point as most Surefire products are damn near bomb proof.
All that being said, I didn't like how sensitive the toggle type switches are on the X300. Any slight bump, the light is on. This becomes less serious when using the on/off tail. It's very easy to flip the on/off with your thumb, assuming a right handed shooter and light at 9 o'clock, and use the light as needed.
1. At least 50 yards. But your definition of ID'ing a target may be different than mine.
Being able to ID simply means being able to decide quickly whether I should shoot or not shoot whether that means seeing a gun or knife or a non-threatening object...simple as that....though, I'll probably never have to make that decision at much past 50 yds, I still want the capability...
Thanks for the reply...
Dos Cylindros
03-19-11, 22:07
I have used both the X300 and Scout series of lights. I run the X300 on my duty handgun during entries, but have gone away from the X300 on my carbine. The Scout lights are far superior in my opinion, and I love my new M300a.
Target I.D. out to 75 yards is no problem, and for me the push button tail cap rules. I have tried the SR07 tape switch, but found it really lacking. I work alot of rural outdoor marijuana gardens and clandestine methamphetamine labs. Surveillance of these locations requires long hikes through dense brush, and helo inserts vial a long line attached to the bottom of the helo. The snag hazzard and having the switch pulled off or out is not acceptable to me. I don't see a light ND issue with the SR07, but for my use it is in no way as durable as the push button end cap. The SR07 is a very nice switch, and has uses, just not in my toolbox.
Guys, which GS mount is needed for the scout and/or mini scout? The 6P mount?
NY there is a specific mount Jason makes for the Scout & Mini.
It is the same for both, NOT the one for the 6P, unable to be more
specific as I'm using my ghey-phone @ the moment.
Guys, which GS mount is needed for the scout and/or mini scout? The 6P mount?
No, the scout mount.
6P mount has a ring. Scout mount has bolt on.
NY there is a specific mount Jason makes for the Scout & Mini.
It is the same for both, NOT the one for the 6P, unable to be more
specific as I'm using my ghey-phone @ the moment.
Not a problem. Thanks man, I'll look on their site.
Guys, which GS mount is needed for the scout and/or mini scout? The 6P mount?
As posted above, you will need our dedicated Scout Mount | Item # GS-3120 | Link (http://www.gearsector.com/browse/category/mounts/flashlight-mounts/surefire-scout-mounts/)
:)
If you put a X300 at 12oclock in front of a Troy front BUIS you can make the Troy protect the switches to avoid a ND of the light. Set the Troy back on the picatinny rail one notch.
Belmont31R~
If I may ask a few questions; are you right or left handed? Also, does that affect why you positioned the light on the right versus the left side of the forend?
Hope the question isn't a stupid one, but just curious if there is a few specific reasons for the positioning!
Thanks
Shane
Belmont31R
03-26-11, 23:56
Im right handed, and I run a QD cup sling mount on the left side....thus the light goes on the right.
To the OP, I have both 200 lumen scout and the 110 Lumen x300. I cannot tell a significant difference between the two outdoors at night at distance, say 50ish yards or so. However, if I come indoors the x300 wins hands down, though the difference isn't as apparent outdoors. Both throw light about the same with a noticeable hot spot for each. However the x300 wins in the spill departement, it really lights up the whole room well.
FWIW, my Scout is dedicated to the shotgun, and the x300 is on my handgun. The king of weapon lights in on my carbine, the m900ab turbohead.
If I had to have one light only though, it would be a x300 hands down. Maybe the x400 for giggles.
Having two 170 lumen X300s and two older 600a scout lights, I like them both. The scouts stay on my M16 and 590A1. One X300 stays on my 21SF with DG switch and the other is my backup/all other guns light.
I see no reason to consider the scout series as obsolete. I'd buy another one as readily as I would another X300. The X300 does win in the spill dept as has been pointed out, so it's better for entry work IMO.
Coming from the .mil side, where simplicity and ruggedness rule, the 'clickie' tailcap will be forever loved by those who carry long guns routinely.
I would be hard pressed to think of an item less rugged and reliable than a Surefire clickie tailcap. Almost everybody I know with a clickie light has had it break and need a replacement. The tailcap on my E2L broke just a few months after I bought it, and when SF sent me the first replacement it was broken right out of the bag (that was a few years ago but I still have the tailcap they sent me sitting in its zip lock bag, it's still broken!). Maybe the reliability is better now, but for something fool proof I much prefer the G2 style push button momentary and screw in constant on.
I would be hard pressed to think of an item less rugged and reliable than a Surefire clickie tailcap.
Surprising. Never had any issue with my slew of SF Z series tailcaps. I think that trust in them is pretty prevalent here, as well. Perhaps you just had a bad experience?
I'd kill for someone to whip up a simple drop-in push-button battery cover for X300/400s. While some like the fit of the rock and lock switch against a fixed front BUIS, as Scottryan pointed out, I find the switches small and far more difficult to locate and operate than a bigass momentary button.
I also doubt that the M720V is going to forever replace a scout/KM3 combo. Looks too tall to be run at 12 o'clock, as X series lights most usually are. Wouldnt be surprised if it blocked PEQs, much less totally obscured the sight picture. Besides which, I believe the tailcap preference explained above will cause most users to opt for the simple and cheaper 600C/KM3 setup. So no. It's far from obsolete IMO.
Wouldn't a diffuser help with increasing spill?
I'm torn between the x300 and the mini scout m300a.
The m300a is more expensive, has less output, and shorter run time. It does, however, include the clickie talicap which is what I really want. It sounds like there isn't much noticeable difference between the output of m300a vs the x300. What do you guys think?
Having two 170 lumen X300s and two older 600a scout lights, I like them both. The scouts stay on my M16 and 590A1. One X300 stays on my 21SF with DG switch and the other is my backup/all other guns light.
I see no reason to consider the scout series as obsolete. I'd buy another one as readily as I would another X300. The X300 does win in the spill dept as has been pointed out, so it's better for entry work IMO.
Belmont31R
04-05-11, 00:17
The X300 runs on 2 batteries. Mini scout on one. Less run time and lumens is to be expected.
As long as the mini-scout output is sufficient to you get the one with the activation method you want. To me thats more important than a slight difference in light output.
I've been looking at these online and have a mounting question. My upper will have a TRX Extreme battle rail. I can put sections of rail anywhere on it I want to mount accessories. It looks like I could mount an M600C Scout light directly to one of these rail sections. Is this correct, or would I have to use something like the Gear Sector mount with it?
Dos Cylindros
04-08-11, 14:29
I've been looking at these online and have a mounting question. My upper will have a TRX Extreme battle rail. I can put sections of rail anywhere on it I want to mount accessories. It looks like I could mount an M600C Scout light directly to one of these rail sections. Is this correct, or would I have to use something like the Gear Sector mount with it?
Yes you can mount a scout light diretcly to the modular rail sections. They come with their own mounts from the factory. The reason many people (me included) run an off set mount is because you can position the light in a better location (11:00 or 1:00 roughly) to be easily activated by your thumb. They also tuck the light up against the rail much better, resulting in a profile a little less prone to snagging on stuff.
Yes you can mount a scout light diretcly to the modular rail sections. They come with their own mounts from the factory. The reason many people (me included) run an off set mount is because you can position the light in a better location (11:00 or 1:00 roughly) to be easily activated by your thumb. They also tuck the light up against the rail much better, resulting in a profile a little less prone to snagging on stuff.
Thanks for the reply. If I'm not mistaken I can mount a rail section in the 1:30 or 10:30 position on the TRX Extreme rail and then mount to that. I think that would eliminate the need for a separate offset mount.
Rail sections can be mounted at 11 and 1 on TRX Extremes only if the mounting bracket on the inside of the handguard is used backwards. This is the only way to get the threads close enough for the screws to grab them. This is problematic for two reasons: A. Even if you LocTite the screws, I would NOT recommend this method of mounting. I tried it on mine several times and it always loosened up. I believe there just aren't enough threads for the screw to grab. I have not yet tried using a longer screw. B. Troy rail sections were apparently not designed to be used in the 11 or 1 o'clock positions and so VERY few mounts will fit in the VERY small space between the rail section and the top rail. I do not know if the Surefire OEM scout mount will fit, but I doubt it. I highly recommend a Gear Sector or LaRue mount, or a Samson Evolution rail instead of the TRX Extreme.
Thanks for the advice. There is also a mount for the Scout light from Mount-N-Slot specifically for the Troy TRX/Vtac rail. I might look into that option as well.
After batting my options around for awhile I went for the M300A Mini Scout Light. Like I said before, I was drawn to the X300 for its output and runtime but I wasn't sold on the switching - I really wanted a clickie tailcap.
I got the M300A in the mail today and I'm really quite impressed. Its smaller than pictures would have you believe and it's very bright despite being rated lower than other SF lights. Just for perspective - Once it got dark I took the light into my basement (30'x75') with lights off. Standing at one end and activating the light lit up the whole room; I would have no problems spotting movement. I have some shitter UTG lights rated at 150-200 lumens and the M300A is still brighter. Not to mention that the beam is focused into a perfect, evenly distributed circle. Every flashlight I've ever used has a tight, bright spot in the middle with a larger ring of duller light around it - The SF light isn't like this, its completely even. I'm definitely satisfied with the output. I also got the clickie tailcap - very robust and tactile. Firm, positive switching and no ND's. I dealt with the lower runtime by adding a 123 battery core to my MOE pistol grip - 2 extra batteries, 2.6 more hours of runtime.
I'm very happy with it. Small, compact, ergonomic, streamlined, durable, bright. Its only natural that its sitting in a Gear Sector Mount :D
It was pricey, but worth it. It gonna take awhile before I stop thinking about all the ammo I could have gotten for that $300
buddyhoohaw
04-21-11, 08:36
Great pics Belmont...a scout in a GS mount is unbeatable Ive found. I found a SR07 for $55 that will be here on Monday so I look forward to finally trying that way overpriced piece of kit out.
Glad to hear you're coming around to the dark....wait "light" side. :p
Cheers
I just installed a Surefire Scout light on my AR using the IWC mount for the Troy TRX Extreme rail. Installation was rather simple. The trickiest part is getting the backing plate between the handguard and barrel in just the right place to screw everything together, but even that wasn't too bad. The mount is very simple, but effective. I'm very impressed with the quality and happy with the way the mount went on.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03051.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03052.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03053.jpg
As the light sits right this second, it's not exactly perfect IMO for a right handed shooter, but I'll soon have an SR-06 tape switch mounted to alleviate that problem. Without the switch the light would be easier to manipulate on the other side of the forend.
It should be pointed out that with the Magpul BUS installed in the front, this is as far forward as I could put the light without dropping it down to the 3 o'clock position on the rail. This is not a problem IMO, but others may want to take it into consideration for their own various configurations.
I just installed a Surefire Scout light on my AR using the IWC mount for the Troy TRX Extreme rail. Installation was rather simple. The trickiest part is getting the backing plate between the handguard and barrel in just the right place to screw everything together, but even that wasn't too bad. The mount is very simple, but effective. I'm very impressed with the quality and happy with the way the mount went on.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03051.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03052.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03053.jpg
As the light sits right this second, it's not exactly perfect IMO for a right handed shooter, but I'll soon have an SR-06 tape switch mounted to alleviate that problem. Without the switch the light would be easier to manipulate on the other side of the forend.
It should be pointed out that with the Magpul BUS installed in the front, this is as far forward as I could put the light without dropping it down to the 3 o'clock position on the rail. This is not a problem IMO, but others may want to take it into consideration for their own various configurations.
Steve, on one of my builds with a 14.5 LW and the 11" rail I used the same mount with my mini scout. I have a Troy front site but felt the lenght was not enough for me to like it. I moved the mount as far forward as possible, even hanging a bit over the edge of the rail to fit me. I prefer the clickie switch so didn't want the tape switch. Anyway, the point of all this is that I put the mount and light where I wanted it and moved the front site back a few notches. It worked great for me. To alleviate this on other builds I just went with the 13" rail.
Steve, on one of my builds with a 14.5 LW and the 11" rail I used the same mount with my mini scout. I have a Troy front site but felt the lenght was not enough for me to like it. I moved the mount as far forward as possible, even hanging a bit over the edge of the rail to fit me. I prefer the clickie switch so didn't want the tape switch. Anyway, the point of all this is that I put the mount and light where I wanted it and moved the front site back a few notches. It worked great for me. To alleviate this on other builds I just went with the 13" rail.
Thanks for the info. I'm not unhappy with the light's location. I just wanted to point out that if you're using a Magpul BUS sight with this particular mount then it's something you should probably be aware of. The MBUS is a little wider than something like a KAC sight, and maybe the Troy. With one of these sights I'm guessing you could put the light and your sight as far forward as you want to with no issues. When the light is on the barrel does cast a shadow, but it's way off to the left side and I didn't even notice it the first few times I turned the light on.
Jason Falla
05-20-11, 23:18
I get asked a lot about where to mount your flashlight to your rifle. I also get asked about mounting options. So I thought that I would drag out some of my SF lights with different mounting options and show you how I mount mine. I am currently running a Centurion Arms full Mil-Spec Cabine. It has a 16" cold hammer forged barrel, covered by a DD M4A1 rail.
I always say that there is never a perfect set up. You will always have to compromise on something. You will always have to give up something to get something. So if you are struggling with the perfect set, just realize that everything is normal. Always remember that if it's tactical, it's not comfortable!
Figure 1 shows my laser (LD D-BAL A2) positioned on the 12 o'clock rail and close to the front sight post so the...
Read more... (www.jasonfalla.blogspot.com)
Jason, on your mini scout light....it appears you have used a butler creek scope cap, if so, what size cover fits the m300a's head?
Great solution considering I was just checking out SF's typical high quality, super convenient, yet high as balls on a giraffe price tag solution which in this case is their aluminum flip up cover that fits the scout head's.....it's only $90 IIrc:eek:
I need it more than anything to protect the bezel and lens from muzzle blast...I spent so much time getting this WL config. the way I wanted it and my only gripe is that it heads about 1/4-1/2" too far forward where it catches some nasty blast from the BAC.
http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac81/trident1982/IMG_4616-1.jpg
Jason Falla
05-21-11, 07:26
Yeah, good question! I didn't buy it, it's an issued item. The one that I have does a great job of protecting the lens from muzzle blast. If you end up getting one, make sure you throw on some electrical tape so it doesn't get blasted off by that muzzle break!
I'll check to see if it has any model numbers on it.
Nice gun BTW.
Jason, on your mini scout light....it appears you have used a butler creek scope cap, if so, what size cover fits the m300a's head?
Great solution considering I was just checking out SF's typical high quality, super convenient, yet high as balls on a giraffe price tag solution which in this case is their aluminum flip up cover that fits the scout head's.....it's only $90 IIrc:eek:
I need it more than anything to protect the bezel and lens from muzzle blast...I spent so much time getting this WL config. the way I wanted it and my only gripe is that it heads about 1/4-1/2" too far forward where it catches some nasty blast from the BAC.
When I was mounting mine, I went back and looked at pics of your SBR and some pics Belmont posted of his setup earlier in this thread. I was curious what kind of beating your light is taking being so close to the muzzle. Taking that into consideration is one of the reasons I was ultimately satisfied with mine being positioned a bit farther back.
Got some pics with my SR-06 installed.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03082.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC03083.jpg
60 rounds may be easy on the light, but hundreds, and thousands can be a bitch to remove. I ran an X200 on a Glock 19 for a 2k round pistol class and I'm STILL trying to get all the crap off the face of the light. For the carbine side I think there's definitely a benefit to having a cover, or at least taping it up.
I now keep the X200s for training as place-holders for the holsters that need them and go back to the X300s for carry so that they stay clean and clear.
I may be out of my lane but I've used my Scout Light and TA33 to engage 8x10 inch steel in a low/no light rifle match last winter at distances up to ~175 yards through rain and fog.
Awesome Steve! That's WL perfection in my book.
Sorry about not getting back on your question from above...I've been absent quite a bit lately due to excessive noise.
As for your question, after about 60rds or so you can def. wipe fouling off the bezel and the lens, however it's just that wiping it off very easily given you take the time to slightly "lube" and I mean ever so slightly the bezel and lens with a film of "lube". Even when it's dry all the fouling comes up with Hoppes elite gun cleaner and doesn't harm the lens nor the bezel in the least.
So I wouldn't say it takes a beating at all, just gets dirty quicker than a WL setback more. It's a tradeoff and I find the lack of shadow to be worth the very forward positioning of the WL. Your setup honestly looks perfect and you can all together avoid muzzle blast where your at currently.
Good to see you again. Thanks for getting back with me about it. I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle since putting the light on it, so I'm curious to see how much buildup I'll get with it in its current location. I'm also curious to see how well those small zip ties I used to secure the wire will hold up to the heat. As far as barrel shadow goes, there is none in the sweet spot of the light. There's a shadow produced by the BC, but it's down around the 7:30 position and it's not something you really notice unless you're looking for it.
Check back tomorrow because I should have my Aimpoint (if the USPS doesn't drop the ball again).
By the way, what happened to your avatar?
60 rounds may be easy on the light, but hundreds, and thousands can be a bitch to remove. I ran an X200 on a Glock 19 for a 2k round pistol class and I'm STILL trying to get all the crap off the face of the light. For the carbine side I think there's definitely a benefit to having a cover, or at least taping it up.
I now keep the X200s for training as place-holders for the holsters that need them and go back to the X300s for carry so that they stay clean and clear.
I've been considering buying the Surefire flip open beam cover for my Scout light but I'm not sure I want to drop $75 for one. I might go cheap and get the diffuser. At least it could be easily pulled off if it became too fouled with carbon.
So Rob_S and the rest of my extremely small fanclub will have a harder time finding my posts and leave me the hell alone. It sucks to have little girls literally quote or reply directly after every post I make. I'm flattered as hell on one side of the coin...on the other, I'm annoyed as hell and ready to say forget m4c.
Rob, I shot 180rds. less than 1 hr. ago and I just not removed the fouling w. a swipe of my pinky finger....I can document that for you if necessary but no chart action brother;)
You need to get over yourself. My post has nothing to do with you. I understand that it is easier for you to lay down and play martyr than offer anything productive, but at least try.
Awesome Steve! That's WL perfection in my book.
Sorry about not getting back on your question from above...I've been absent quite a bit lately due to excessive noise.
As for your question, after about 60rds or so you can def. wipe fouling off the bezel and the lens, however it's just that wiping it off very easily given you take the time to slightly "lube" and I mean ever so slightly the bezel and lens with a film of "lube". Even when it's dry all the fouling comes up with Hoppes elite gun cleaner and doesn't harm the lens nor the bezel in the least.
So I wouldn't say it takes a beating at all, just gets dirty quicker than a WL setback more. It's a tradeoff and I find the lack of shadow to be worth the very forward positioning of the WL. Your setup honestly looks perfect and you can all together avoid muzzle blast where your at currently.
You may want to try some tube type lip balm about every 400 rounds, just use your fingers and apply a very light coat almost to the point you cant tell it is there. It does not effect light performance either. If you are in a dusty enviroment dont use this as it will pick up the dust. Not my idea but I think it comes from a very reliable source IMO, Kyle Lamb as told to him by one of his friends. Hope this may help.
For the carbon build up you need to try a WD-40 pen and apply some before you shoot. Everything wipes right off, re apply and you're good to go till next time.
For me, the biggest advantage to the Scout over a pistol light is the ability to hard mount it. I run my Scout bolted directly to the TRX rail, and it offers a VERY low profile, and I have no fear of it coming loose.
For the carbon build up you need to try a WD-40 pen and apply some before you shoot. Everything wipes right off, re apply and you're good to go till next time.
Yep. There's virtually no limit to what oil-like substance you can use. Part of my cleaning process for any gun I have is wiping down any light that may be present. Re-assembly/lube includes "refreshing" a skim-coat of oil on the flashlight lens. Just enough to dampen a fingertip, and apply; no need to glop it on.
Take a page from the fratboys; too much foam in a beer cup can get knocked down by rubbing your forehead or the bridge of your nose and applying those fingers to the foam. That's stuff in the oils of your skin reacting to the foam (oil = base vs. foam = acid reaction, right? :confused: ). Anyhow, we cart oils around on our own repulsive carcasses every day (the same ones that gank up your eye-pro lenses; fingerprints, etc.), and they can be put on your flashlight lens as a barrier for soot.
Stepping away fron Scout lights for a moment:
As stated, with metal bezels, practically any oil is of no impact to the material, but one'd have to take a look at the type of lube being used to make sure it won't damage anything polymer. For example, there are specific cautions in the TMs for polymer AN/PEQ-?? devices and a host of other things made from the same material which specify CLP, as it can make the polymer brittle over time. Any lube or gun-cleaning agent that contains Perchloroethylene and/or Methylene Chloride shouldn't be used on polymers.
Chap Stick is a good call for lenses, too. It has the benefit of being universally available, cheap, something you should probably have on your body or in a range/med kit anyway, and ALSO works very well for re-lubing the red O-rings often found on lights/optics. Black O-rings are usually the silicone-impregnated type and don't need lube; red ones will dry out and require occasional lube.
Magic_Salad0892
06-18-11, 04:34
If you have a greasy friend you can probably just rub your light on their face and be good to go.
Good read, guys.
El Pistolero
06-18-11, 05:23
If you have a greasy friend you can probably just rub your light on their face and be good to go.
Good read, guys.
I just rub my nose on the lens of my weaponlights when I wake up in the mornings, thanks to my granmother's genes I have oily skin.:jester:
knoxtnshooter
06-21-11, 22:40
Does anyone know if a scout light in an offset mount on the 9 will clear a PEQ15 on the 12?
It is for me. I'm back to the original SF G2 and VTAC mount I started with. Bought and sold on Ebay. I didn't lose a dime on it. I upgraded the G2 to a $10 Cree 300 lumen R5, R2, Rs maybe (?) drop in. Much better performance.
Jason, on your mini scout light....it appears you have used a butler creek scope cap, if so, what size cover fits the m300a's head?
Thanks to Trident82's question to Jason, I took the liberty of ordering a Butler Creek Scope Cover. Trident82 what you will need is a Butler Creek Objective 01 Flip Open Scope Cover. Per the Butler Creek website (See Here (http://www.butler-creek.com/productsImages/charts/flip_scope_chart.html)), the Objective 01 size is for a 1" diameter. Turns out that the Objective 01 fits great on the Scout m300a bezel. Very snug tight. Thanks Jason for the great idea!
BTW, I found mine on Amazon for $8.96.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn60/Seagrave77/IMG_2157a.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn60/Seagrave77/IMG_2158a.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn60/Seagrave77/IMG_2162a.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn60/Seagrave77/IMG_2163a.jpg
Matt Edwards
07-01-11, 22:27
With the capabilites of the X300 (i.e. run time, brightness, weight, versatility), Is there much (other than a 30 Lumens) that the Scout offers over the X300?
I know there are some die-hard Scout guys out there; what are your thoughts?
Is the Scout light becoming obsolete? No.
For me, I put M series lights on my carbines, and X series lights on my pistols.
That's how they were designed. For me, from 50 to 100M the difference is evident. Even my SBR has a M600C mounted.
Yep. There's virtually no limit to what oil-like substance you can use. Part of my cleaning process for any gun I have is wiping down any light that may be present. Re-assembly/lube includes "refreshing" a skim-coat of oil on the flashlight lens. Just enough to dampen a fingertip, and apply; no need to glop it on.
Take a page from the fratboys; too much foam in a beer cup can get knocked down by rubbing your forehead or the bridge of your nose and applying those fingers to the foam. That's stuff in the oils of your skin reacting to the foam (oil = base vs. foam = acid reaction, right? :confused: ). Anyhow, we cart oils around on our own repulsive carcasses every day (the same ones that gank up your eye-pro lenses; fingerprints, etc.), and they can be put on your flashlight lens as a barrier for soot.
Stepping away fron Scout lights for a moment:
As stated, with metal bezels, practically any oil is of no impact to the material, but one'd have to take a look at the type of lube being used to make sure it won't damage anything polymer. For example, there are specific cautions in the TMs for polymer AN/PEQ-?? devices and a host of other things made from the same material which specify CLP, as it can make the polymer brittle over time. Any lube or gun-cleaning agent that contains Perchloroethylene and/or Methylene Chloride shouldn't be used on polymers.
Chap Stick is a good call for lenses, too. It has the benefit of being universally available, cheap, something you should probably have on your body or in a range/med kit anyway, and ALSO works very well for re-lubing the red O-rings often found on lights/optics. Black O-rings are usually the silicone-impregnated type and don't need lube; red ones will dry out and require occasional lube.
Super old thread, but relevant today too. Surefire uses CoC for their tir lenses. It is nearly inert and nonreactive to most things that won't eat through your finger. Alcohols don't attack it nearly they way they do other clear polymers, and it resists hear much better!
Now...tying in as well...I heard surefire revamped the SRxx series tapeswitches.
How doe they do staying on the rail? Are there grooves or something to add zip ties? How durable is the newest iteration?
oh i got duped by the necropost
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.