View Full Version : Stippling and Carrying
So, how does stippling work from a comfort standpoint on a cc gun? I use a Crossbreed Supertuck.
no issues for me IWB with all my GLK with either stipple or 3m floor tape
Guns-up.50
03-31-11, 13:32
I have a m&p9 stippled and a g17 rtf2 no problems if you run into an issue just put on an undershirt works for me.
Magic_Salad0892
03-31-11, 13:41
I hate it. Uncomfortable, but I don't wear undershirts.
Conventional stippling will tear up t-shirts and CAN cause abrasion against bare skin. It mostly depends on the following:
Type of holster.
Type of stippling.
Type of undergarment worn
Position of Carry
A good, competent Stipple artist will have perfected a pattern that is abrasive yet grippy without too many sharp points that will tear apart clothes.
Choose a professional and get it done right. Ben at Boresight comes to mind.
My unstippled M&P 45 OWB under a T-shirt irritates me if I'm moving around a lot.
As pointed out... it depends on how aggressive the stipple job is.
Choose a professional and get it done right. Ben at Boresight comes to mind.
What's the general consensus on DIY vs. paying to have it done?
I'm in love with a job done by Stephen H on a G34 that I saw on lightfighter, but obviously he's professional.
I've seen other guys on here that seemed to do alright by themselves.
I'm still trying to build up the courage to actually do it, figuring on starting with an old A2 grip, or a Pmag...
Also, I do wear an undershirt with this rig.
What's the general consensus on DIY vs. paying to have it done?
If you have half a brain and can sit still for the time it takes to stipple.... it's very easy.
I find most stippling to be excessive and obnoxious... but i had a 10 year old G22 that was as smooth as a bar of soap from the years of carry. I did that one and it came out pretty good.
What's the general consensus on DIY vs. paying to have it done?
I'm in love with a job done by Stephen H on a G34 that I saw on lightfighter, but obviously he's professional.
I've seen other guys on here that seemed to do alright by themselves.
I'm still trying to build up the courage to actually do it, figuring on starting with an old A2 grip, or a Pmag...
Also, I do wear an undershirt with this rig.
There is a HUGE difference between garage "stipple artists" and guys that stipple thousands of guns a year ala Ben at Boresight or Bowie at Bowie Tactical Concepts.
1. They're not using a factory soldering iron tip.
2. They know at what rate they can burn and deform the plastic.
3. They know what temperate to melt the plastic at.
4. Their patterns do not have a defined POINT to it meaning they are less likely to tear apart clothing.
5. They put a large amount of time into ensuring that after texturing the pattern (or lack thereof) is EVEN across its entirety. I dont know about you but i like a certain degree of consistency. Half of the home stipple jobs i see here and on other sites have serious depth problems either too little or too much in random places.
6. The detail work is amazing. No rough edges, clean lines, no burrs and an overall PROFESSIONAL appearance to the thing.
Now there is more to the entire package but let me just say one thing. I personally do not care what my pistol looks like. If my M&P's were shaped like big elephant penis's i would still shoot them. It is not a fashion contest BUT functionality IS important to me and having some hack...um..hack on my pistol is not my idea of cool. There are WAY too many "professionals" on this site and others pawning off their "art" to people that simply dont know any better. A soldering iron and time do not make you a professional.
Educate yourself, find out what degree of texturing you want and then either decide to go for it yourself or seek out a true master craftsman.
Here's an example. Would you have a guy that owned a couple of files and some punches stipple or texture your expensive 1911? Probably not, at least i hope not. You would seek out a qualified professional to do the work for you so that you were ensured maximum function for your dollar.
The same applies for a plastic pistol regardless of its lesser cost.
All stippling is NOT the same.
You make some good points.... but...
I bought the wood burning kit from harbor freight. In that kit there are several tips that you can mess with. One of those tips i cut jagged and asymetrically to create a barky finish that came out great.
Just buying a plain soldering iron is not optimal... I agree.
There is a HUGE difference between garage "stipple artists" and guys that stipple thousands of guns a year ala Ben at Boresight or Bowie at Bowie Tactical Concepts.
1. They're not using a factory soldering iron tip.
2. They know at what rate they can burn and deform the plastic.
3. They know what temperate to melt the plastic at.
4. Their patterns do not have a defined POINT to it meaning they are less likely to tear apart clothing.
5. They put a large amount of time into ensuring that after texturing the pattern (or lack thereof) is EVEN across its entirety. I dont know about you but i like a certain degree of consistency. Half of the home stipple jobs i see here and on other sites have serious depth problems either too little or too much in random places.
6. The detail work is amazing. No rough edges, clean lines, no burrs and an overall PROFESSIONAL appearance to the thing.
All stippling is NOT the same.
Very informative...
Obviously I have no idea what I'm talking about :suicide2:
I seen alot of guys on here use Bowie Tactical and Bore sight. Anybody here used Hatfields Gunsmithing in Manassas VA? I think Rob Jenson shoots for them.
Its about exposure.
Have you ever felt any work done by a professional?
Its all about learning, this is why we come to these forums. Some times you have to take what you see at face value. Lots of people love to tout how easy it is to stipple but most of them have never put their hands on a pros work.
Dont get me wrong, it CERTAINLY is NOT difficult to burn a piece of plastic with a wood burning tool. The difficulty comes into play when you're trying to OPTIMIZE your pattern for maximum grip and texture.
Like i said before, all stippling is not created equal.
Get your hands on some pros work and figure out whats good for your hand size and the thickness of your skin.
Best of luck brother.
you could go light on the side that's against your skin.
your strong hang mostly grips the side away from your skin anyway.
Cesiumsponge
03-31-11, 19:59
Using a high quality soldering station (not soldering iron) will solve DIY stippling issues because you have temperature control. Most folks grab the $20 devices which work in a pinch, but are more difficult to get consistent results. Of course, unless you do electronics as a hobby, its cheaper to just send it out to a reputable stippler. I am completely satisfied with my DIY job but I also work with my hands a lot and I'm confident in my abilities on the workbench. Boresight and Bowie has top-notch work (David Bowie actually has my slide right now for RMR millwork) but I've also seen HORRIBLE stipple jobs from supposed gunsmiths that charge good money for the work. Do research before sending it off to anyone if aesthetics are part of the equation.
With patience and some basic hand-eye coordination, you can get great results at home, if you know your own abilities and limits.http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5520602860_cb3937d6b6_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5520005249_2e535eb437_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5520594380_17d8513153_b.jpg
I carry a stippled pistol every day--no problems.
Boresight or Bowie definitely do outstanding stippling jobs, unfortunately, mine are just hack DIY jobs:
http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=7360&filename=RMR%20Glocks.jpg
willowofwisp
03-31-11, 20:36
Dammit Doc, every time you post a picture of your 19 RMR setup it makes me want to go and grab an RMR lol..
EDIT::Fixed..I ordered an RMR haha.
With patience and some basic hand-eye coordination, you can get great results at home
I have zero patience and little hand eye coordination. But I did a minimalist job on my G22...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/trixiebud/CIMG3522.jpg?t=1301622499
Cesiumsponge
03-31-11, 21:15
DocGKR, are those TSD or Bowie jobbers? I still have a few more weeks before my slide comes back. Can't wait to jump on the RMR train. Any issues with residue build-up or brass hits to the optics?
Don Robison
03-31-11, 21:23
I carry this minus the light AIWB in a Dale Fricke Archangel everyday with no issues. Cope Reynolds at Southwest Shooting Authority did the stippling. It's "grippy" but doesn't tear my clothes or skin up.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s69/Donr101395/DSC00083.jpg
ColdDeadHands
03-31-11, 21:57
With some practice (on pmags) & patience you can do it yourself. Here's my EDC, did the stippling myself;
http://i824.photobucket.com/albums/zz170/mw1311/My%20Guns/DSCN0089.jpg
It isn't too rough for carry w/o a undershirt but when it isn't too hot I wear one anyways as it makes carrying a gun more comfortable for me.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/vcdgrips/PA240562.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/vcdgrips/P8050557.jpg
Gun #2 v Gun # 42
The craft evolves. I am now much more comfortable removing mold lines, fingergroves, checkering and factory texture, using a dremel v. strips of sandpaper only, regulating depth and texture etc. I am a craftsman on my best day, Bowie and Ben at Boresight are artists.
Having said that, practice on mag bodies to get some touch and texture feel. Know that they do not behave quite the same as the pistol. You can do a perfectly serviceable job with a 30.00 wood burning kit from Michaels attached to a light dimming extension cord. Your first gun might take you 3 hrs, the next 2.5 and so on until you can likely do one in 2 ish.
If you start getting into stippling, the next step is to create or have created some type of "head" that makes more than one pore opening at the same time. Then you get to learn "touch" all over again etc.
Bottom Line- I always wear some type of t-shirt so the texture of any gun could be fairly rough and I would be fine.
Rmplstlskn
04-01-11, 00:01
Choose a professional and get it done right. Ben at Boresight comes to mind.
Somehow I suspect that most places that offer it do NOT have the boss man or other higher level employee sitting at a bench poking plastic with a solder iron all day... Except for the high $$$ artists, they have some low-level employee trained to do it...
Rmpl
I carry a stippled pistol every day--no problems.
Boresight or Bowie definitely do outstanding stippling jobs, unfortunately, mine are just hack DIY jobs:
http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=7360&filename=RMR%20Glocks.jpg
They look okay to me Dr. Roberts. I used an iron that had temperature regulation and I practiced on an old cracked magazine for a few hours until I got a pattern I liked. I'm happy and have had no issues with mine. It's been six years since I did the job on my G19 and about thirteen years since I did my G17. I've shot pistols stippled by custom shops and while they are usually very well crafted, I have no regrets.
Somehow I suspect that most places that offer it do NOT have the boss man or other higher level employee sitting at a bench poking plastic with a solder iron all day... Except for the high $$$ artists, they have some low-level employee trained to do it...
Rmpl
You suspected wrong.
Ben, Bowie, and most of the other guys in that league are all hands on guys. They do ALL of the work themselves from start to finish. It is the only real way to ensure quality standards with this type of work.
As i mentioned previously its more than just poking holes in plastic.
An outfit like Robar would fit into the criteria you mentioned.
I have been REALLY tempted to do this to my Glocks lately.
What types of tools are you guys using. I did a google search but the types of wood burning kits is crazy.
Anyone have specific brands and tips you use?
-Drew
I have been REALLY tempted to do this to my Glocks lately.
What types of tools are you guys using. I did a google search but the types of wood burning kits is crazy.
Anyone have specific brands and tips you use?
-Drew
Go to Lowes and get the Weller WSB25HK (http://www.lowes.com/pd_123257-273-WSB25HK_4294822048_4294937087_?productId=1007641&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl_Solder%2B_4294822048_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_quantity_sold%7C1).
It has a shorter barrel then most other commercial options (which is MUCH easier to use for detail work), and the woodburning tips do OK for most stippling work. The chisel tip works great for straight lines or real fine work while the point is still sharp (use just the point), and the shading tool (looks like spade) works well for flattening things and the point does well for general stippling as well.
Damn! Thanks for all the info. I will check it out!
Bowie Tactical
04-01-11, 18:13
I guess for my customers it's a good thing >>>>>but for me sometimes not so good with the huge number of guns I do a year I do all the work myself. I am a one man shop so all grip reductions, trigger jobs, slide melting, stippling, etc...etc. is done by me over the bench anywhere from 6 to 7 days a week trying not to be too late for my customers. This time of year it gets to be some late nights since a teach alot of firearms schools at Tactical Defense Institute.
I can attest to the stippling being fine for carry. I brought the stippling to the commercial market many years ago after a worker at Smith & Wesson played with it. After i started doing stippling as a buisness it litterally started the company. Since then it has been copied by a huge number of folks which is a testiment to its value.
David Bowie
Bowie Tactical
I guess for my customers it's a good thing >>>>>but for me sometimes not so good with the huge number of guns I do a year I do all the work myself. I am a one man shop so all grip reductions, trigger jobs, slide melting, stippling, etc...etc. is done by me over the bench anywhere from 6 to 7 days a week trying not to be too late for my customers. This time of year it gets to be some late nights since a teach alot of firearms schools at Tactical Defense Institute.
I can attest to the stippling being fine for carry. I brought the stippling to the commercial market many years ago after a worker at Smith & Wesson played with it. After i started doing stippling as a buisness it litterally started the company. Since then it has been copied by a huge number of folks which is a testiment to its value.
David Bowie
Bowie Tactical
I've seen your work, sir. It is exceptional. I went the DIY route with the full knowledge that I might have needed to buy a replacement frame. I hope my post didn't cast any aspersions on professional work, particularly yours. I'm an armorer and enjoy doing what work I can.
Bowie Tactical
04-01-11, 18:59
None cast none thought of.
David Bowie
Bowie Tactical
outrider627
04-01-11, 19:06
You suspected wrong.
Ben, Bowie, and most of the other guys in that league are all hands on guys. They do ALL of the work themselves from start to finish. It is the only real way to ensure quality standards with this type of work.
As i mentioned previously its more than just poking holes in plastic.
An outfit like Robar would fit into the criteria you mentioned.
Yep. Ben pretty much IS Boresight Solutions by himself. Like I've told him before, stippling at his level is an art form.
Cesiumsponge
04-01-11, 19:59
I have been REALLY tempted to do this to my Glocks lately.
What types of tools are you guys using. I did a google search but the types of wood burning kits is crazy.
Anyone have specific brands and tips you use?
-Drew
I'd suggest practicing on an A2 grip or some other plastic first. I use a Hakko 936 but it's not something most people will buy unless they also do electronics for a living or hobby. I found that consumer-grade soldering irons afford very little control but if it's possible to master them if you get familiar enough with their quirks. Look into the Weller WLC100 if you want the cheapest soldering station (stations are temperature or power controllable for the cheaper versions)
Depending on what type of pattern you want to stipple, a fine tip with a small radius or a blade should cover the majority of patterns (tree bark or stippling mimicking that on wood stocks). If possible, get a commercial tip. Cheap tips are uncoated and oxidize quickly, losing shape and form (and heat conductivity). Commercial tips are plated and last for hundreds of hours. Running the tip in flux to clean off crud also extends the life.
Nice to see David Bowie posts here. I look forward to getting my G17 slide back since the RMR wants to sit happily on something. If I was less confident in my own capabilities, I would have sent the entire pistol for you to grip-chop and stipple because your work turns out consistently fantastic.
Damn! Thanks for all the info. I will check it out!
Good advice from joeywhat
The guy knows his stuff...;)
http://firearmconcepts.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Diversified-Firearm-Concepts/209972715686753
markm
That looks great. Stippled just where it needs it for added grip. :cool:
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