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Kyohte
04-05-11, 13:34
I noticed that after my last range trip my rail had loose. Has anyone else had this happen with the Troy TRX extreme rail? There had been slightly over 1000 rounds through the rifle since it was installed. For those of you with higher round counts, how is the rail holding up?

5pins
04-05-11, 14:02
Did you lock tight the screws?

Kyohte
04-05-11, 14:05
Did you lock tight the screws?

Yes, blue.

SteveL
04-05-11, 14:07
Had the Loc-tite broken loose? Were the screws backing out at all?

5pins
04-05-11, 14:11
Yes, blue.

You should have used red. Blue can soften up if it gets too hot.

Kyohte
04-05-11, 14:13
Had the Loc-tite broken loose? Were the screws backing out at all?

It did not appear that the screws had moved. I tightened it to the width in the instruction sheet. When I checked it after it came loose it was still the same. Maybe it was never tight enough to begin with. I am going to clean the threads up before I re-install it anyway.

SteveL
04-05-11, 14:16
It did not appear that the screws had moved. I tightened it to the width in the instruction sheet. When I checked it after it came loose it was still the same. Maybe it was never tight enough to begin with. I am going to clean the threads up before I re-install it anyway.

That's interesting. I would like to hear how secure it remains after you reinstall it. Keep us posted please.

Kyohte
04-05-11, 14:17
You should have used red. Blue can soften up if it gets too hot.

Will use red this time. The temperature difference between the two isn't that big though, is it?

SteveL
04-05-11, 14:32
I don't know if I would use red. Red takes like 500° of heat to remove. I might try Rocksett instead of red Loctite. Based on what I've read, it's about as easy to break loose as blue Loctite, but it can withstand much higher temps.

Honestly I would probably try blue Loctite again. Since you say the screws don't appear to have moved, make sure the rail is seated properly and screw it back on. Put witness marks on the screws and see if it comes loose again. You can always put red Loctite or Rocksett or whatever on it if it comes loose again.

Robb Jensen
04-05-11, 14:33
I've had them loosen after 1st install a couple of times.

1. What I'm doing now is installing them tight.
2. Loosen the rail and remove it from the bbl nut completely.
3. Reinstall again and tighten them down well. Loosen it up again and completely remove the rail and the screws and them blue Loc-tite the screws and reinstall everything.

This seems to work. I don't know why they loosen if you don't do this I think maybe the heli-coils for the screws stretch or the rail needs to form itself to the barrel nut or something.

aflin
04-05-11, 15:07
I've had them loosen after 1st install a couple of times.

1. What I'm doing now is installing them tight.
2. Loosen the rail and remove it from the bbl nut completely.
3. Reinstall again and tighten them down well. Loosen it up again and completely remove the rail and the screws and them blue Loc-tite the screws and reinstall everything.

This seems to work. I don't know why they loosen if you don't do this I think maybe the heli-coils for the screws stretch or the rail needs to form itself to the barrel nut or something.

I had the same problem and did exactly what Robb did. It appears to be fine now. Definitely, don't use Red loc-tite. Stick with Blue or rock-set if that's your flavor. There's no way a rail is going to get 500 degrees anyway, unless you're doing something wayyyy out of the ordinarily :D

5pins
04-05-11, 15:38
Blue lock tight is good to 300 and red to 500. I had blue loosen up on me when I was using a MI FSB light mount once, so now I use red on anything near the barrel. Hopefully mine will not come loose or I will have to torch it to get it off. I did not know there was a problem with the Troy’s coming loose.

Packman73
04-05-11, 16:11
I wish I saw this thread yesterday as I just ordered this rail for my sbr. I hope I don't regret it.

philipeggo
04-05-11, 18:15
Dont think you will , this sounds like an isolated incident. Ive heard nothing but good things. Oddly i too want one for a SBR build.


I wish I saw this thread yesterday as I just ordered this rail for my sbr. I hope I don't regret it.

aflin
04-05-11, 19:46
I wish I saw this thread yesterday as I just ordered this rail for my sbr. I hope I don't regret it.

Yeah, don't lose faith until it truly fails on you. There have been plenty of people that don't have this problem. You'll more than likely be problem free. Worse comes to worse, Troy has amazing customer service. I got shipped with the VTAC rails instead of the TRX and Troy sent me the TRX rails, no questions ask.

ssracer
04-05-11, 20:24
Good to know....I'll keep a close eye on mine. Its already been on and off the rifle a few times so hopefully that will take care of it.

C4IGrant
04-05-11, 21:18
I am running the TRX and love it. Never had an issue.

When applying loctite, always make sure to degrease the screws AND the nut.


C4

qcfmike
04-05-11, 23:17
This really sounds a lot like what happens with aluminum rims and steel lug nuts on a car. The heat build up that occurs from the hub and brakes will cause the two to expand differently and become lose...they will need to be re-torqued in a day or two or you take a high risk of having the lugs work themselves off. The install and reinstall method that has been talked about reinforces this theory. You have aluminum rails and steel screws... I believe. I think that if you were to run a few hundred rounds through a rifle and let the heat cycle run its course a few times and then remove and blue loctite the reinstall you would be good to go.

Packman73
04-06-11, 00:04
Good to know fellas, thanks.

I appreciate the advise Grant; I'll make sure I do it like that.

lethal dose
04-06-11, 00:17
i ran an 11" in 2009-2010 with absolutely no problems. the trx extreme is, by far, my favorite rail. when i get around to doing another build, i plan on going with a 13".

M4Fundi
04-06-11, 01:30
I am running the TRX and love it. Never had an issue.

When applying loctite, always make sure to degrease the screws AND the nut.


C4

This is good advice as I have had loctite fail because I failed to do this. I now use Gun Scrubber on anything I'm going to loctite.

TehLlama
04-06-11, 01:31
Literally the only point about the TRX Extreme rails many people find remotely disagreeable are those two points - mine are the same procedure as Robb, with red loctite.

Once the VTAC flavored 15" is out, I'll be running exclusively VTAC Extreme and URX rails.

ssracer
04-06-11, 11:58
This really sounds a lot like what happens with aluminum rims and steel lug nuts on a car. The heat build up that occurs from the hub and brakes will cause the two to expand differently and become lose...they will need to be re-torqued in a day or two or you take a high risk of having the lugs work themselves off. The install and reinstall method that has been talked about reinforces this theory. You have aluminum rails and steel screws... I believe. I think that if you were to run a few hundred rounds through a rifle and let the heat cycle run its course a few times and then remove and blue loctite the reinstall you would be good to go.

I think the threads are steel sleeves in the rail

motoduck
04-06-11, 13:25
I have the rails on 5 different rifles. 15K + rounds and nothing has come loose. I use blue lock tight or rock set. I would never use red lock tight. I used to road race (heat and vibration) and the only time we ever used red lock is when you wanted a part "permenatly" attached.