View Full Version : $8 auto center punch, castle nut, and < 1 min
As the title states. Staking the castle nut was cake. This was my first time doing it as well. I've read numerous posts about people not wanting to do it or wanting to use thread locker. Pfft. This shit was TOO easy not to do it.
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0139.jpg
Time to pop open a cold one.
I was slightly sad when I ran out of lowers to stake.
This shit was TOO easy not to do it.
So why do some compaines not do it? :suicide2: Cheap asses....
.
cobravenom39
04-08-11, 19:35
So why do some compaines not do it? :suicide2: Cheap asses....
.
Why do some use Blue loctite, too? WTF?
FromMyColdDeadHand
04-08-11, 20:37
Pic, model number and store you got the punch from?
Rmplstlskn
04-08-11, 20:38
Looks Tier-1, pro-grade to me... :D
Rmpl
Pic, model number and store you got the punch from?
I'll snap a pic when I get home.
DirectDrive
04-08-11, 22:11
That's a good lookin' stake job dude :cool:
There's a vampire that'll never rise to bother us again!
...oh wait- this forum is about zombie killing
That's a damn nice staking job!
I bought it at the Home Depot in the tools dept. :cool:
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0141.jpg
Thats the same one I bought to do Mine :D
After I did it I was sad, I had nothing else to Punch :(
You can just keep it in your car or truck in the center console to use as a window punch in emergency situtations now... lol. I know some medics use them for that purpose
...or you could carry it with you to the range or gunshops, chat up the guys and stake their carbines for a nickle.
For something more exciting, buy a ninja suit, sneak into the factories after the AR Fairies and Angry Beavers have gone home for the night and stake all the wild castle nuts. You would be a legend- the Night Staker!
Hahaha. I like your ideas better, MW.
I bought it at the Home Depot in the tools dept. :cool:
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0141.jpg
The very same punch I bought. Hope my turns out looking as good as yours.
Scotter260
04-09-11, 01:59
Is the point on that punch rounded or pointed? It looks rounded and the results more substantial than a couple I've done. It looks like you were quite close to the edge as well and it still turned out.
The punch I use has a slight point and seems to cut the metal more than deforming it to the point that it seems like I've only displaced shards into the recesses. The last one I did I moved closer to the center of the side of the endplate and it looked closer to yours and other good examples I've seen here.
I share your disbelief that something so simple isn't done from the factory. The MOACKS leaves me in the same gaffawed state regarding carrier key staking.
Brand new it had a sharp point to it. After a couple of punches, it dulled a bit but still had a point and enough to "grab" the metal. I staked another build and it's still good to go. Displacing metal was what I was shooting for and it happened. I don't think the the castle nuts are going to budge. I torqued them down pretty good before hand.
FromMyColdDeadHand
04-09-11, 02:40
Thanks for the info!
Most automatic center punches can be adjusted to how hard or light they strike
I bought it at the Home Depot in the tools dept. :cool:
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0141.jpg
Thats the same one I use & from the same place.
It takes a few wacks to get it deep but does a nice job.
NoveskeFan
04-09-11, 06:59
Thats the same one I use & from the same place.
It takes a few wacks to get it deep but does a nice job.
Same here. Good product.
http://cgi.ebay.com/General-Tools-70079-Utility-Automatic-Center-Punch-/370495629314?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564342a802
With the price of gas being what it is, here it is on Ebay; albeit a little more expensive with shipping.
It's Starrett 18AA, Mitutoyo 985-112.
I think we should find the best center punch available -.- Can't find any automatic ones with carbide tips.
ETA: This is sarcasm.
I've never seen such a small task of bending a little metal generate such overwhelming volumes of conversation. :confused:
Funny, I bought the exact same punch from Home Depot last night for the exact same reason. I tried using a hammer and punch set, but lacking a vise or a third hand, I was getting nowhere fast.
Time to see how it works.
I have the same punch and it does make the job easy. There's no reason to not stake the endplate with this product.
So let me get this straight.....with this thing you just point and shoot, no hammer, no vice, its that easy???? If yes on all 3, I'll be heading to HD. Thank you for the info.
NoveskeFan
04-09-11, 10:18
So let me get this straight.....with this thing you just point and shoot, no hammer, no vice, its that easy???? If yes on all 3, I'll be heading to HD. Thank you for the info.
Yeah, it is spring powered. You just hold it steady and push till it clicks.
Yes it's that easy. You press the punch on the place you want to stake.
There will be resistance as the spring compresses then an internal mechanism hits the punch staking the metal. I find that you have to hit more than once but it's that easy.
:)
General Tools is the DPMS of the tool industry.
Starrett would be for those who are looking for a Noveske-equivalent.
I bought a similar one at Harbor Freight for about $4. I staked two castle nuts with it, so I figure I've already got my money's worth out of it.
I've never seen such a small task of bending a little metal generate such overwhelming volumes of conversation. :confused:
I'm trying to drive a point that it's cheap and ANYONE can do it. You don't need to be a gunsmith to get it done and it should be done as we all know. I know there are plenty out here that are scared to do it or never thought about doing it to their builds or even production gun.
It's simple. If it helps someone else, I'm all for it no matter how petty or uninteresting it may be to others.
I've never seen such a small task of bending a little metal generate such overwhelming volumes of conversation. :confused:
I think some people are reticent to start wacking at their AR with anything so when they see someone provide an easy method and state "here, look, it's easy", people are going to be interested. Remember, it's easy when you know how :)
It's Starrett 18AA, Mitutoyo 985-112.
I think we should find the best center punch available -.- Can't find any automatic ones with carbide tips.
ETA: This is sarcasm.
Thanks man! Gettin' rid of my hammer and punch...Gettin' one of those is gonna save some room in the ole tool box :D
jackblack73
04-09-11, 12:19
Nice job. Touching it up with Aluminum Black will get rid of the shiny exposed metal.
Yeah, it is spring powered. You just hold it steady and push till it clicks.
Thank you, I will be heading to HD as I have a Colt MT6400 with a castle nut that needs staking.
El Pistolero
04-09-11, 22:15
Bravo OP. I hope more people see this before they say "oh I don't have the tools or the time to stake my castle nut properly, etc."
I've had one of these for years. It lives in my drill index. How can anybody who has tools NOT have one? You can get one anywhere that sells tools for less than $15 for a good one. They will stake anything including the gas key with the proper technique. They even work as a center punch for drilling holes (dull use).:D
Huh, didn't realize it was this easy.
DirectDrive
04-10-11, 00:09
I've never seen such a small task of bending a little metal generate such overwhelming volumes of conversation. :confused:
I'm a paid hammer operator, since about 1971 and I was very impressed with the accuracy from the automatic.
Not to be snobbish but we wouldn't use automatics, after several million blows you like to manually take the shot :D
I say, with accuracy like that, run that info up the flagpole for all to see.
Very nice i'll have to grab one tomorrow this has been on my to do list for awhile and i actualy had forgotten about it thanks!
Nice job. Touching it up with Aluminum Black will get rid of the shiny exposed metal.
An end plate is not made of aluminum (at least the halfway decent ones aren't), it's made of steel. Think of a cold blue instead of alumiblack.
jackblack73
04-10-11, 00:57
An end plate is not made of aluminum (at least the halfway decent ones aren't), it's made of steel. Think of a cold blue instead of alumiblack.
My endplate is made of steel (GG&G), but the Aluminum Black still works great on it. It gives it a matte finish that matches the original.
An end plate is not made of aluminum (at least the halfway decent ones aren't), it's made of steel. Think of a cold blue instead of alumiblack.
Daniel Defense would be so disappointed to hear your opinion...
https://danieldefense.com/mounts-1/sling/rear-receiver-qd-swivel-attachment-point.html
Daniel Defense would be so disappointed to hear your opinion...
https://danieldefense.com/mounts-1/sling/rear-receiver-qd-swivel-attachment-point.html
True, true. But I wonder how many people trust the thin 6061 end plate when you can get the Noveske steel model for about the same price.
True, true. But I wonder how many people trust the thin 6061 end plate when you can get the Noveske steel model for about the same price.
I agree. I gotta believe that steel is a better choice for a small component that takes that much stress and wear, and I can't imagine that the weight savings is significant, but there was a recent thread on this very subject and I was surprised at how many people referred to the two plates as equivalent. And I've not seen any reported failures. Yet.
I agree. I gotta believe that steel is a better choice for a small component that takes that much stress and wear, and I can't imagine that the weight savings is significant, but there was a recent thread on this very subject and I was surprised at how many people referred to the two plates as equivalent. And I've not seen any reported failures. Yet.
I just checked, and the Noveske is only .2 oz heavier. It's also like 15 bucks cheaper. Would the fact that it is steel make it any harder to stake with a auto center punch? I have a Starret 18A.
The_Hunter
04-10-11, 09:50
Man I saw this thread yesterday and was on my way to HD anyway so I picked one of these up. I have now staked everything in the house. The guy next door saw me working out in the garage so he brought over his two ARs and I staked them as well.
This thing is just way to much fun and way to easy to use
Thanks for the tip
:)
General Tools is the DPMS of the tool industry.
Starrett would be for those who are looking for a Noveske-equivalent.
I sense the beginning of an auto center punch Chart here. Starret is definitely left side material.
I sense the beginning of an auto center punch Chart here. Starret is definitely left side material.
I got a Starrett from Brownell's. It has worked quite well.
see this Makes me wonder,It took most of us just Seconds to Stake the end plates ,So why is this such a problems for the Companies that don't do this simple ,easy ,fast Fix ? :rolleyes:
see this Makes me wonder,It took most of us just Seconds to Stake the end plates ,So why is this such a problems for the Companies that don't do this simple ,easy ,fast Fix ? :rolleyes:
Maybe they don't see it as necessary on a rifle designed for hobbyists? I admittedly have an SBR that's been through one weekend carbine course and two training days, about 2200 rounds, with a castle nut I just haven't gotten around to staking yet...no problem. It's not that I don't think it's necessary, I just haven't remembered to do it at a time when I have a hammer and punch readily available.
see this Makes me wonder,It took most of us just Seconds to Stake the end plates ,So why is this such a problems for the Companies that don't do this simple ,easy ,fast Fix ? :rolleyes:
Ah, grasshopper, now you begin to see why some manufacturers are truly retarded.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDJ8t10nLA0
Go to the 12:10 mark
Yep, seen that vid.. I staked my castle nut on my glass dining table.
Just installed a Noveske QD plate on my new build and staked it. I hit the bright spot with a Sharpie. I think I got my $$ worth from the auto center punch now.
ETA: It doesn't look like it but there's enough of the stake to keep the castle nut from spinning off. I did a practice one on an old end plate and it took a hard whack from a hammer on the wrench to break it loose. I didn't even torque down on the castle nut. It was just hand tight with 2 stakes.
This one was torqued down pretty good. Shit is not coming loose any time soon.
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0148.jpg
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc421/021411/IMG_0147.jpg
DirectDrive
04-10-11, 17:55
Nicely done and high quality pics as well !
Not that this is very important but are there any ideas where to get a punch to recreate the Colt staking:
http://www.ar15barrels.com/tech/castle-nut-stake.jpg
Maybe they don't see it as necessary on a rifle designed for hobbyists? I admittedly have an SBR that's been through one weekend carbine course and two training days, about 2200 rounds, with a castle nut I just haven't gotten around to staking yet...no problem. It's not that I don't think it's necessary, I just haven't remembered to do it at a time when I have a hammer and punch readily available.
Hammer? What do you need a hammer for?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDJ8t10nLA0
Go to the 12:10 mark
Why is this guy staking it in two places?
If you want a square divot, grind your stake punch with a square end. Cut it with a slight angle.
Staking is nothing more than a type of thread locker. You need just enough to displace metal into the castle nut. Small stakes are better than staking heavily
Hammer? What do you need a hammer for?
I'd have to make a 30 mile round trip drive to Home Depot if I wanted to use a $9 automatic center punch. I only need to walk out to the workshop to do it the old fashioned way.
I could drive up the road to the True Value and get a General Model 77 for $20 (stopped in there this afternoon), but if I were going to spend that much, I'd go to Amazon and pay $35 to get a Starrett delivered to my door. An automatic punch is nice, I'm sure, but staking a castle nut with a hammer and metal punch on my vise is, overall, a pretty trivial exercise in blacksmithing.
I'd have to make a 30 mile round trip drive to home depot if I wanted to use a $9 automatic center punch. I only need to walk out to the workshop to do it the old fashioned way.
That's fuggin' nuts. I have about 3 HD's within a 10 mile radius. Oh, not to mention a few Lowe's as well. :p
That's fuggin' nuts. I have about 3 HD's within a 10 mile radius. Oh, not to mention a few Lowe's as well. :p
Well, I'll look around. Maybe there's one that I missed that's closer.:rolleyes:
I'd have to make a 30 mile round trip drive to Home Depot if I wanted to use a $9 automatic center punch. I only need to walk out to the workshop to do it the old fashioned way.
I could drive up the road to the True Value and get a General Model 77 for $20 (stopped in there this afternoon), but if I were going to spend that much, I'd go to Amazon and pay $35 to get a Starrett delivered to my door. An automatic punch is nice, I'm sure, but staking a castle nut with a hammer and metal punch on my vise is, overall, a pretty trivial exercise in blacksmithing.
Been there, done that, got an auto punch when I was in the store anyway.
Been there, done that, got an auto punch when I was in the store anyway.
That Starrett is only a couple of clicks away.
DirectDrive
04-10-11, 22:24
Not that this is very important but are there any ideas where to get a punch to recreate the Colt staking:
http://www.ar15barrels.com/tech/castle-nut-stake.jpg
I have seen those stakings. It looks like their punch tip is square and about 80% or so of the width of the notch in the castle nut.
I would probably make one up myself with some tool steel that was close to the finished size needed. The first thing that comes to mind for a donor is a square style EZ-Out. Starting with the right size, it wouldn't take much to shape.
Any small piece of hardened tool steel, shaped properly would work.
DirectDrive
04-10-11, 22:28
Why is this guy staking it in two places?
Yeah, it's just a bump stop and one is good.
It seems like threads about staking are the new lube thread(s).
Originally Posted by hals1
Why is this guy staking it in two places?
CARBINE ONLY
6A. Lubricate threads of lower receiver (5.1) and lower receiver extension (5.2) with molybdenum disulfide grease
(item 19, app D) before reassembly.
6B. Pre-position the spring (5.3) and buffer retainer (5.4) into the retaining hole of the lower receiver (5.1). Screw the
locking nut (5.5) onto the lower receiver extension (5.1) with the three notches on the locking ring (5.5) facing
forward.
6C. Align the receiver end plate (5.6) onto the lower receiver extension (5.2) with the lug of the receiver end plate
(5.6) facing forward.
6D. Pre-position the takedown pin (5.7), detent (5 8), and spring (5.9) in lower receiver assembly (5.1).
6E. Push down on the buffer retainer (5.4) and spring (5.3) and at the same time, screw the lower receiver extension
(5.2) in until it retains the buffer retainer (5 4) in position.
6F. Align the lug of the receiver end plate (5.6) into the rear of the lower receiver (5.1). Screw the locking nut (5.5)
forward until it contacts the receiver end plate (5.6).
6G. Using the special tool (Item 12, app C) tighten the locking nut (5.5) until snug.
6H. Using the special tool (item 12, app C), and torque wrench, torque locking nut (5.5) to 40 ±2 inch pounds.
6J. Stake the receiver end plate (5.6) in 2 places across from the notches in the locking nut (5.5).
From ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5609096120_b7a13c8e11_b.jpg
I have seen those stakings. It looks like their punch tip is square and about 80% or so of the width of the notch in the castle nut.
I would probably make one up myself with some tool steel that was close to the finished size needed. The first thing that comes to mind for a donor is a square style EZ-Out. Starting with the right size, it wouldn't take much to shape.
Any small piece of hardened tool steel, shaped properly would work.
I use a broken stamp. I started life as a 3/16 letter K.
DirectDrive
04-11-11, 10:50
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5609096120_b7a13c8e11_b.jpg
Nice, crisp image Quib.
Cell phone pic crowd take note :D
DirectDrive
04-11-11, 14:05
6J. Stake the receiver end plate (5.6) in 2 places across from the notches in the locking nut (5.5).
From ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P
Well, looks like the TDP calls for two staked locations.
For a combat weapon, probably prudent.
I would consider the endplate an expendable item anyway. If you have any reson to think you would take it off, I wouldn't stake it. I would imagine the only time this would be an issue is if you were testing componets.
I know we have some certified armorers on the board, but I'm pretty sure they avoid all staking and lube threads.
I would consider the endplate an expendable item anyway.
Bingo. If I take a receiver extension off, I'll reuse the castle nut but trash the endplate.
If you want to re-use a fancy endplate that has a sling attachment built into it, try a different RE and/or different castle nut. That way the castle nut will likely be clocked differently when torqued and you can stake in fresh spots.
I'm a huge fan of the Noveske steel sling mount endplates. They are very reasonable. Anything with an Iron Cross has it's own unique level of awesome.
Otherwise, for issued guns I like the Tango Down PR-4. The Troy version places the sling loop too far inward. I keep dragging my thumb on it when working the safety, but I have big hands so YMMV.
Nice, crisp image Quib.
Very nice Quib.
Thank you.
ClearedHot
04-11-11, 19:06
To the OP, how many strikes from the auto center punch was needed to get those results?
Nice looking work, by the way!
bp7178,
I'm coming from the PR-4. It was very nice but "bulky".
ClearedHot,
I want to say 6-8 for good measure. It doesn't take much. Once you start, you can start to tell how much you need. As long as metal starts to make it's way into the castle nut groove you're GTG.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.