View Full Version : A little cleaning advice needed
BrigandTwoFour
05-15-11, 23:35
Hey all, have a bit of a question for ya.
Shot my first IDPA qualifier today, it was a blast (and I was totally unprepared for it, I showed up thinking it was a practice day and I would finally get some decent instruction on pistol handling....yeah....my mistake)
While I was doing that, my AR was laid out on the safe table with bolt open and locked back (we were planning on two-gunning it up). Well, the 40-50 mph winds kicked up one hell of a dust storm that put fine brown gritty dust in placed I didn't know existed. We had to cancel the rifle shoot since nobody's gun was functioning (even the shotguns were choking on the stuff). Now, I've never had to clean a gun that saw this much grime. Until today, most of my cleaning has been after an easy day at the bench or in the woods...so pretty much just carbon and other residue.
Do you guys (especially the ones who have had to maintain weapons in the desert) have any tips on cleaning this stuff out? I spent a good 40 minutes with swabs, q-tips, CLP, Lube, canned air, and it still seems like its all down in the little nooks and crannies- especially down in the threads of my optic mount.
Soak the BCG in a bottle of Hoppes. I had a Gatorade bottle of it in Afghanistan. After about 10 minutes, pull it out and wipe it down.
Q-tips and CLP for the upper receiver.
Barber brush for the outside of the weapon.
When my guns get really dirty, I hit the parts with non chlorine break cleaner and then clean and lube as normal.
I do Ballistol/water mix followed by compressed air. wipe down with a microfiber cloth.
Then Ballistol as lube.
I detail strip mine & clean everything with paint thinner & a paint brush, when they're really dirty. A gallon of it costs about $7. Relube & you're GTG.
Solvent, toothbrush, pipe cleaners, and oil.
Soak the BCG in a bottle of Hoppes. I had a Gatorade bottle of it in Afghanistan. After about 10 minutes, pull it out and wipe it down.
Q-tips and CLP for the upper receiver.
Barber brush for the outside of the weapon.
Do you disassemble the BCG first or drop it in complete?
Littlelebowski
05-16-11, 05:48
Put away the damned paintbrushes, q-tips, and god knows what else.
Using $4 in cash, buy a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner at Walmart. Hose out the receivers and parts out side. Once dry, reoil.
Don't get caught up in silly cleaning rituals, buy the can of non chlorinated brake cleaner.
Put away the damned paintbrushes, q-tips, and god knows what else.
Using $4 in cash, buy a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner at Walmart. Hose out the receivers and parts out side. Once dry, reoil.
Don't get caught up in silly cleaning rituals, buy the can of non chlorinated brake cleaner.
On top of the time savings this will get it cleaner than any other q-tip and makeup remover pad ever will.
You guys clean your guns?
Once a year, whether they need it or not.:jester:
BrigandTwoFour
05-16-11, 07:42
Thanks all, appreciate it.
I did hose it down last night with the brake cleaner and relubed. Most of the important parts seem clean enough. I'm sure there's enough grit in some places that will end up working like a polishing compound, but I can deal with that.
I was just a bit more concerned with the sand that worked its way down into the threads of my optic (TR24G).
Chalk it up to my relative inexperience with the AR if you wish. I've never been one to see how dirty my things can get and continue functioning. Funny, though, when you consider that my parts selection was for making sure that it would keep going bang no matter what.
I like a toothbrush to clean carbon out from the barrel locking lugs and a pipe cleaner for gas tubes. Are you telling me just blast it all with brake cleaner and that will do better?
I like a toothbrush to clean carbon out from the barrel locking lugs and a pipe cleaner for gas tubes. Are you telling me just blast it all with brake cleaner and that will do better?
Yes. Most guys spend WAY too much time cleaning by using all sorts of brushes and stuff. I can completely clean my AR's in a matter of minutes with a can of Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. That stuff makes cleaning the barrel extension super easy.....just make sure you're wearing safety glasses so none splashes back nto your eyes. Same holds true for a dirty BCG. I can disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble a BCG in just a few minutes. No need for soaking. Also the brake cleaner blast all the grease and grime away so cleaning is a lot less messy that most folks do with using CLP an rags. I never understood using oily stuff to clean oily stuff....seems like way to much in terms of dirty rags to me.
Also, no need to spend time with pipe cleaners in your gas tube. If you think about the amount of high pressure gas that runs through it every shot you see that it really oes blow itself out each and every time.
I've been using brake cleaner on fire arms for 12 years. Just watch plastic parts or things near by. It will melt some plastics. It also may take the painted logos off of things....
Put away the damned paintbrushes, q-tips, and god knows what else.
Using $4 in cash, buy a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner at Walmart. Hose out the receivers and parts out side. Once dry, reoil.
Don't get caught up in silly cleaning rituals, buy the can of non chlorinated brake cleaner.
That.
Battlepack
05-16-11, 15:38
Put away the damned paintbrushes, q-tips, and god knows what else.
Using $4 in cash, buy a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner at Walmart. Hose out the receivers and parts out side. Once dry, reoil.
Don't get caught up in silly cleaning rituals, buy the can of non chlorinated brake cleaner.
Only thing I can add to the above is you may want to use a credit card if you get sky miles or cash back.:D
I like a toothbrush to clean carbon out from the barrel locking lugs and a pipe cleaner for gas tubes. Are you telling me just blast it all with brake cleaner and that will do better?
Definitely maybe. You won't know for certain until you try it.
I don't care for aerosol products when cleaning my firearms because of the fumes. Not that the products I use are without fumes, but I have less control over fumes with aerosols. I keep their use to a minimum. That's my personal situation and what I'm comfortable with after trying many different methods. It also changes with the needs of the moment
With a bit of looking around I can often times find brake cleaner for $1.50-1.99 per can at Walmart and the local auto parts stores.
I feel sorry for the very new folks around here looking to learn about these matters, given how cool it's become to recommend not cleaning your weapon.
Obviously don't clean your rifle when you are potentially going to need it to be ready to fire, or even in the field...however, when time permits, a proper light cleaning that doesn't even involve but 5-10mins of actual work should be done imho if I even need to say that. Don't clean your gun and it will fail.....how many rds, nobody knows, so why not take a little preventative maintenance to ensure your weapon's reliability and overall longevity.
.
Just curious, what are some of the names of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners you're using?
Thanks.
.
With a bit of looking around I can often times find brake cleaner for $1.50-1.99 per can at Walmart and the local auto parts stores.
.
Just curious, what are some of the names of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners you're using?
Thanks.
.
ANY brand of non chlorinated brake cleaner will work, it doesn't have to be brand specific.
If fumes bother you then you could try Break Free powder blast. It has a nice citrus smell and works well but cost a lot more.
I just use the cheep stuff from Wal Mart. Use it outside, make sure to where rubber gloves and eye pro.
I feel sorry for the very new folks around here looking to learn about these matters, given how cool it's become to recommend not cleaning your weapon.
Obviously don't clean your rifle when you are potentially going to need it to be ready to fire, or even in the field...however, when time permits, a proper light cleaning that doesn't even involve but 5-10mins of actual work should be done imho if I even need to say that. Don't clean your gun and it will fail.....how many rds, nobody knows, so why not take a little preventative maintenance to ensure your weapon's reliability and overall longevity.
I think there are folks who hear the word "cleaning" when it comes to firearms and have flashbacks to when that meant detail stripping the weapon and getting it ready for a white glove inspection. Those folks are right, that level of attention simply isn't needed to keep an AR running in tip-top condition.
Occasionally, I will detail strip a firearm and give it a thorough cleaning so that I can inspect it for wear, broken parts or any other anomalies. Otherwise, I just run a snake through the bore a few times, clean the majority of the muck out of the works, inspect and lube it. I also like taking things apart, working on them and putting them back together, even if it's just to get a better understanding how they work
ComeAndTakeIt
05-16-11, 19:56
Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner question:
Do you have to worry about it hurting the plastic parts like the stock or pistol grip?
Is it advised to just follow up with CLP or some other lube after?
Suwannee Tim
05-16-11, 21:18
Why non-chlorinated solvent? Chlorinated solvents may be destructive to plastics, any other reason?
Chlorine can promote corrosion of aluminum
Why non-chlorinated solvent? Chlorinated solvents may be destructive to plastics, any other reason?
Safer to use.
http://www.worker-health.org/chlorinatedsolvents.html
Chlorinated solvents can leave the body through exhalation and/or urination. Exposures can lead to short-term or long-term health effects, depending on the manner by which they entered your body and the amount of exposure. Short-term side effects may include dizziness, fatigue, headaches, and/or skin rashes. Long-term side effects may include chronic skin problems, and/or damage to the nervous system, kidneys, or liver. Some chlorinated solvents are also known to cause cancer, in both humans and animals.
abn45bravo
05-16-11, 21:59
Yes you should clean the inside of your weapon thoroughly. the reason is if your weapon is really clean to begin with it will run longer in adverse conditions. also when you are cleaning your weapon you should be checking it for broken parts.
I have ran my M4 to 964 rounds without cleaning or re-lubing. Just because your M4 can be run like a raped ape does not mean you should treat it like one.
This whole "ya don't have to clean your gun" crap is setting a bad example for young shooters and soldiers.
Normally I use hoppe's elite gun cleaner, Q-tips, tooth brush, something to scrape carbon with and a bore snake.
Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner question:
Do you have to worry about it hurting the plastic parts like the stock or pistol grip?
Is it advised to just follow up with CLP or some other lube after?
I always test a small portion of the plastic in question if it is the first time I'm using brake cleaner on it.
After cleaning with brake cleaner, you should apply a very light coat of oil or CLP to replace the oil removed from the anodizing or parkerizing.
I spray everything off with brake cleaner then give a light coating of RemOil(spray) and let that soak in. Leaves a deep black finish.
In this instance I will use WD-40 or any other type light spray lube. I will do this, still outside, soak the living piss out of everything and swing off the excess.
Yes you should clean the inside of your weapon thoroughly. the reason is if your weapon is really clean to begin with it will run longer in adverse conditions. also when you are cleaning your weapon you should be cheking it for broken parts.
I have ran my M4 to 964 rounds without cleaning or re-lubing. Just because your M4 can be run like a raped ape does not mean you should treat it like one.
This whole "ya don't have to clean your gun" crap is setting a bad example for young shooters and soldiers.
Normaly I use hoppe's elite gun cleaner, Q-tips, tooth brush, something to scrape carbon with and a bore snake.
That is in total honesty better than I could say my own exact thoughts on this topic...I would have taken advantage of the spell checker though;)
Every single word of the above, and almost creepily..I use the same cleaning kit. I rarely remember or even have qtips, however I'm a huge believer of the Hoppe's elite/Mpro7, it's an awesome product on numerous aspects...non toxic/vaporous, literally works while you don't..i.e. you spray, walk, hit w. brush, wipe....done. Maybe my favorite advantage to this product is that now I can say for sure it actually reduces future maintenance or makes the cleaning so much easy once you stay on the Hoppe's elite/Mpro7..mainly appropriate for barrels and specifically in my case...precision barrels that do get cleaned after they are brought home each time. That's why in general it's sold in such a small bottle of actual cleaner.
I only spotted one post in this thread that indicated people shouldn't clean their guns and my bet is the poster was joking. I think some of us have found a way to thoroughly clean our weapons without finding the need to make a big production out of it. If some folks get their jollies busting out the surgical cleaning kit and flip-down goggles to squeegie every square millimeter of their weapon - have at it. However, suggesting that those of us who find life "better through chemistry" and have discovered leaps forward like bore-snakes and brake cleaner are somehow less responsible with our weapons than those who detail clean every time they fart in the wind, is just silly...
My training guns get cleaned and lubed when I feel like cleaning them. Usually after every 1200 to 1500 rounds. My patrol rifle gets cleaned more often and then re-zeroed after cleaning. In the winter months when I usually only shoot my patrol rifle, I detail strip and clean all of my rifles and lube them thoroughly. I am a bit OCD so I like to keep everything very clean. I do not do much brushing in the barrels, maybe once a year. I have a stainless WOA barrel that I do keep very clean but I rarely shoot that rifle.
When I started as a police officer, my department firearms guy made us clean and then inspected our weapons before we left the range on qualifications day. That is a hard habit to break when it used to be department policy.
BrigandTwoFour
05-17-11, 10:54
Wow, I didn't quite expect this thread to turn into a philosophical debate about the merits of detail stripping vs total neglect. But hey, that's why I like this place.
Thank you everyone for the input. I was originally just asking about getting the fine sandy grit out of the moving parts, and took the advice about hosing it down, wiping, and relubing. I'll see how that works out the next trip.
And, just to add, I used to be thoroughly obsessive about cleaning my weapons every time I took them to the range. But these days, I might run a couple patches down the bore, squirt some oil (or grease, depending on the gun) and call it good.
alpha.kilo
05-17-11, 12:04
I live in the desert and have had, from time to time, my carbines loaded with silt and sand after a long day at the range or shooting in the desert. I have yet to find a job that couldn't be cleaned up with a rag, some patches and a little CLP. Re-lube with MachineGunners Lube and some grease.
I know brake cleaner and diesel fuel can be used. But I haven't yet had the need to get that drastic. I try to avoid harsh chemicals to my chrome lining.
I do like a clean rifle however. I cannot agree with knowingly leaving sand in a weapon action when time and opportunity allows for a thorough cleaning. By thorough I mean 15-30 minutes.
My .02.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 12:07
I know brake cleaner and diesel fuel can be used. But I haven't yet had the need to get that drastic. I try to avoid harsh chemicals to my chrome lining.
You do know that the chrome lining was chosen for durability, right? Those chemicals you listed will not in anyway harm your barrel.
Your weapon is nowhere near as fragile as you think it is.
Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner is nasty stuff. Reading the MSDS for some makes me want to avoid it for health reasons.
I basically just lube/re-lube my guns and when I do clean them, I use M-Pro 7 which is basically harmless and non-toxic (will dry out your skin some as it removes the oils).
You do know that the chrome lining was chosen for durability, right? Those chemicals you listed will not in anyway harm your barrel.
Your weapon is nowhere near as fragile as you think it is.
I think that most people associate chrome lining with the chrome in their cars. Thats were all these myths about damaging chrome lining in your bore come about. If a metal projectile speeding down the bore with expanding gases behind it that are hotter than the gates of hell wont damage it, there are not many things that will.
alpha.kilo
05-17-11, 12:38
You do know that the chrome lining was chosen for durability, right? Those chemicals you listed will not in anyway harm your barrel.
Your weapon is nowhere near as fragile as you think it is.
I don't think its fragile. But I have had some experience with chroming auto bumpers and even some plastic automotive parts. I have seen some chrome that loses its luster after it gets old or is exposed to acetone or gasoline. I am told that is because the surface of the chrome becomes microscopically less smooth. I don't know what the effect of harsh industrial solvents has on the aging process of chrome. My thought is to avoid it if possible.
So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents? Chrome, by its design, has a much rougher surface than stainless or Chro moly steel. I want to keep my barrel surface as smooth as possible for as long as possible. Even my Noveske heavy chromed barrels don't get industrial solvents applied.
I am suggesting don't use more chemical than is needed. Run your gun hard. In training. In work. In combat. But my feeling is when its cleaning time, don't artificially introduce unneeded harsh chemicals to surfaces that are important to the flight of the bullet.
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 12:39
In reference to the OP I have my own story of sandy nastiness to share.
In 2008 when I was in Kuwait waiting to be sent up north my platoon and I were at the range zeroing our M4s in the middle of a sandstorm. Per Army idiocy we left our rifles on the sandbags, with the bolt to the rear, and the lube free to collect as much dust and sandy goodness as possible. After the first iteration of firing I checked my target and then went back to my rifle and made my adjustments. When I was ready to fire again I closed the bolt and my rifle made the most God-awful grinding noise I think I've heard in my life.
I called over the range master and told him about it, and he said shoot it anyway. First round was a FTE and I had to mortar the rifle to get it out. Second and third, same thing. In the end I actually ended up gouging the inside the receiver so bad that it needed to be replaced.
My unit chalked it up as a combat loss and I walked away with a whole new upper receiver and the knowledge that no matter what the cadre says, to never leave the bolt locked to the rear in the middle of a sandstorm.
I'm a bit OCD about my cleaning habits too, but I don't go overboard with it. If I'm doing a class or just running through some ammo on my own I'll shoot until I'm dry on ammo and then when I get back to the house I'll clean the hell out it.
If the rifle's really dirty (outside and inside) I'll start by hosing it down (yes, I said it) with the garden hose to get off all the grime and dirt on the outside. Immediately after I'll hit it with compressed air to dry it off. After that I spray out the inside with brake cleaner and run a snake down the bore. And then (here's where the OCD comes in) I'll pull out the dental picks and get at the chamber, guts of the BCG, the inside of the upper, etc. I leave the muzzle alone because that's not directly affecting the function of the rifle and thus does not need to be scrubbed. But everything else from the FCG to the BCG to the upper gets a wipe down and a scrub.
Coat everything that rubs with a thin coat of 3/1 motor oil/CLP mix and I'm done.
ComeAndTakeIt
05-17-11, 13:48
And then (here's where the OCD comes in) I'll pull out the dental picks and get at the chamber, guts of the BCG, the inside of the upper, etc. I leave the muzzle alone because that's not directly affecting the function of the rifle and thus does not need to be scrubbed. But everything else from the FCG to the BCG to the upper gets a wipe down and a scrub.
Are these metal dental picks? What type of picks are you using?
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 13:52
So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents?
Because they're not solvents per se. I define solvents as something like Sweets or Montana Copper Killer. I think CLP has more solvents that affect the barrel than diesel or brake cleaner.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 13:54
Are these metal dental picks? What type of picks are you using?
I hope not....
I don't think its fragile. But I have had some experience with chroming auto bumpers and even some plastic automotive parts. I have seen some chrome that loses its luster after it gets old or is exposed to acetone or gasoline. I am told that is because the surface of the chrome becomes microscopically less smooth. I don't know what the effect of harsh industrial solvents has on the aging process of chrome. My thought is to avoid it if possible.
So I am certainly no expert. But if a filthy chrome barrel cleans up with a patch and some CLP, why introduce the solvents? Chrome, by its design, has a much rougher surface than stainless or Chro moly steel. I want to keep my barrel surface as smooth as possible for as long as possible. Even my Noveske heavy chromed barrels don't get industrial solvents applied.
I am suggesting don't use more chemical than is needed. Run your gun hard. In training. In work. In combat. But my feeling is when its cleaning time, don't artificially introduce unneeded harsh chemicals to surfaces that are important to the flight of the bullet.
The chrome used to line a bore is a hard chrome and different than the decorative chrome used on automotive parts. Decorative chrome does not stand up to any kind of use
Deadeye0331
05-17-11, 15:43
A few rags, a brush, patches & rods and a Bottle of CLP is all you need to clean sand, dirt or carbon out of your rifle.
A few passes of an oily rag will get 98% of the grit.
Brake cleaner and other solvents may do it quicker but they can damage the plastic furniture on your weapon and harm the finish on the alum/ steel parts. And if your extractor has rubber o rings installed BC can dry them out.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 15:45
A few rags, a brush, patches & rods and a Bottle of CLP is all you need to clean sand, dirt or carbon out of your rifle.
A few passes of an oily rag will get 98% of the grit.
Brake cleaner and other solvents may do it quicker but they can damage the plastic furniture on your weapon and harm the finish on the alum/ steel parts. And if your extractor has rubber o rings installed BC can dry them out.
Oh, BULLSHIT. I've got about 15k rounds through one rifle that says you are dead wrong. I've been using brake cleaner for years. ****, there's pictures of said rifle in the Defoor carbine class thread. Folks on this forum saw me shoot with it.
Deadeye0331
05-17-11, 16:19
Hey guy clean your weapon how you want, but brake cleaner can damage the finsh and rubber/plastic parts. I'm looking at the directions on non chlorinated crc brand brakleen right now and it says,
"protect ALL rubber parts and painted surfaces from overspray"
Now its possible the manufactures of brakleen are "bullshiting" too but, id imagine they have a good reason for giving the warning.
I'm not saying BC is going to render someones rifle inoperable but there is no reason to go nuts with it, especially if your are just talking about some sand/ build up.
Oh, BULLSHIT. I've got about 15k rounds through one rifle that says you are dead wrong. I've been using brake cleaner for years. ****, there's pictures of said rifle in the Defoor carbine class thread. Folks on this forum saw me shoot with it.
Hey guy clean your weapon how you want, but brake cleaner can damage the finsh and rubber/plastic parts. I'm looking at the directions on non chlorinated crc brand brakleen right now and it says,
"protect ALL rubber parts and painted surfaces from overspray"
Now its possible the manufactures of brakleen are "bullshiting" too but, id imagine they have a good reason for giving the warning.
I'm not saying BC is going to render someones rifle inoperable but there is no reason to go nuts with it, especially if your are just talking about some sand/ build up.
That is because it is a solvent that eats away at the chemicals that comprise paint, plastic, rubber, etc. It will not harm hard chrome. Hell, the hard chrome holds up to repeated explosions, why would brake spray hurt it. Is Hoppes any different? Not by much, and it does the same thing to paint, etc.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 16:23
BC is the best way to reach in all of those nooks and crannies. Do you follow every liability warning you read or do you ever listen to the voice of practical experience? I'm telling you that there are pictures of this rifle of mine on this very forum that contradict your worrying little warning you're reading on the can.
Deadeye0331
05-17-11, 16:39
Orion- I agree with you 100% the chrome lining is not in danger, my concern is with what happens when BC or similar chemicals come in contact with finishes, plastic and rubber parts.
I am not so much concerned with the cosmetic damage of loosing some finish on a rifle but what could happen to the o-rings on extractors or within optics or light systems. I have used BC and other non-firearm solvents to remove carbon when I did not feel like scraping or scrubbing it away. But I use it sparingly, and only apply it to limited areas.
That is because it is a solvent that eats away at the chemicals that comprise paint, plastic, rubber, etc. It will not harm hard chrome. Hell, the hard chrome holds up to repeated explosions, why would brake spray hurt it. Is Hoppes any different? Not by much, and it does the same thing to paint, etc.
Orion- I agree with you 100% the chrome lining is not in danger, my concern is with what happens when BC or similar chemicals come in contact with finishes, plastic and rubber parts.
I am not so much concerned with the cosmetic damage of loosing some finish on a rifle but what could happen to the o-rings on extractors or within optics or light systems. I have used BC and other non-firearm solvents to remove carbon when I did not feel like scraping or scrubbing it away. But I use it sparingly, and only apply it to limited areas.
I don't clean my optics, lights, or other stuff like it this way.
Deadeye0331
05-17-11, 16:54
I don't follow every warning label but I do take what they say into consideration...
As for listening to the voice of practical experience, I do take experience into consideration; like my experience cleaning and supervising the cleaning of M240's which have fired 15k plus rounds in one day. That experience has taught me that if you can clean a filthy belt-fed with CLP, rags and patches, then you should have no problem cleaning a carbine with the same items. It takes a little longer but then you have no worries about causing damage to any finishes, plastic or rubber parts.
BC is the best way to reach in all of those nooks and crannies. Do you follow every liability warning you read or do you ever listen to the voice of practical experience? I'm telling you that there are pictures of this rifle of mine on this very forum that contradict your worrying little warning you're reading on the can.
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 17:06
Are these metal dental picks? What type of picks are you using?
I use these (http://www.lowes.com/pd_239658-930-324621N_0__?productId=1207839&Ntt=picks&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpicks). Okay so they're not really dental picks but they work the same.
I use them mostly for picking little shards of brass and carbon off the bolt face near the ejector and getting around the area just above the gas rings. Other than that about the only other thing they're useful for is pulling out the firing pin retaining pin when it's cooked in with carbon.
I don't follow every warning label but I do take what they say into consideration...
As for listening to the voice of practical experience, I do take experience into consideration; like my experience cleaning and supervising the cleaning of M240's which have fired 15k plus rounds in one day. That experience has taught me that if you can clean a filthy belt-fed with CLP, rags and patches, then you should have no problem cleaning a carbine with the same items. It takes a little longer but then you have no worries about causing damage to any finishes, plastic or rubber parts.
After removing the stock, pistol grip, and heat shield we'd hit a receiver with two cans of brake cleaner to speed up the process when we cleaned the coaxes. My platoon at one point shared one coax between four bradleys during gunnery, and that thing was caked with carbon after two days. After spending 8 hours getting it spotless for weapons turn in we decided that there was a more effective way to clean the MGs and thus we started the brake cleaner thing. There was some resistance from my squad leader who also thought that rubbing CLP on the barrel would take off the "blueing." We politely filed that advice in the idiot file of SSG knowledge.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 17:38
I just love being spoken down to about 240s. Didja ever think for just one minute that the way the Corps taught you is not the end all be all?
As far as picks and whatnot,. That's silly white glove inspection shit. Spray it out. Don't waste your time picking and fiddling away.
Deadeye0331
05-17-11, 17:41
I use these (http://www.lowes.com/pd_239658-930-324621N_0__?productId=1207839&Ntt=picks&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpicks).
After removing the stock, pistol grip, and heat shield we'd hit a receiver with two cans of brake cleaner to speed up the process when we cleaned the coaxes. My platoon at one point shared one coax between four bradleys during gunnery, and that thing was caked with carbon after two days. After spending 8 hours getting it spotless for weapons turn in we decided that there was a more effective way to clean the MGs and thus we started the brake cleaner thing. There was some resistance from my squad leader who also thought that rubbing CLP on the barrel would take off the "blueing." We politely filed that advice in the idiot file of SSG knowledge.
Leon- Oh yea you put a few thousand rounds down the barrel of a 240 it will build up some carbon, especially on that op rod! I have spent many an hour cleaning crew serves for some pointless inspection that never happens!
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 17:51
Leon- Oh yea you put a few thousand rounds down the barrel of a 240 it will build up some carbon, especially on that op rod! I have spent many an hour cleaning crew serves for some pointless inspection that never happens!
See if you can scrounge up some "GM-D" grease from some of your LAR or tracks guys. Put a light coating on the op rod and watch the carbon just WIPE off thousands of rounds later, boot.
Oh, BULLSHIT. I've got about 15k rounds through one rifle that says you are dead wrong. I've been using brake cleaner for years. ****, there's pictures of said rifle in the Defoor carbine class thread. Folks on this forum saw me shoot with it.
I had an M16 melt completely when I sprayed it with brake cleaner. Everything. Furniture. Barrel. Everything, reduced to a puddle of smoking plastic except for two springs and a cog. I cried. I saved my allowance for weeks to buy it. I was five. It was of those very rare M16s made by Mattel. I still keep that cog in a little cigar box as a memento, right between an original Superball and a glow-in-the-dark yo-yo. Then you had to come along and callously kick over a traumatic memory. You're an unfeeling brute, that's what you are!
*Sniff* I'm going home to sulk in my room
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 20:54
As far as picks and whatnot,. That's silly white glove inspection shit. Spray it out. Don't waste your time picking and fiddling away.
You see the great thing about it is that if I choose to devote an extra 15 minutes to my gun cleaning regimen I can. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. It's not a waste of time and I'll clean my rifle the way I want. Mmmkay?
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 20:56
You see the great thing about it is that if I choose to devote an extra 15 minutes to my gun cleaning regimen I can. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. It's not a waste of time and I'll clean my rifle the way I want. Mmmkay?
Sure but don't expect me to think your way which is not only harder but does a worse job is a good idea.
Try the brake cleaner. Outdoors. It's about 3 bucks. It does a better job and is faster. Very handy for a 240's feed tray, blasting out the bad particles.
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 21:03
Sure but don't expect me to think your way which is not only harder but does a worse job is a good idea.
Try the brake cleaner. Outdoors. It's about 3 bucks. It does a better job and is faster. Very handy for a 240's feed tray, blasting out the bad particles.
Well that's why I spoke of this process as a personal way of cleaning and not adding it as a suggestion. Originally I was only commenting on the amazing amount of dust and sand I've had accumulate in my rifle in the past. And I totally agree with using brake cleaner. But after this past weekend and 720 rounds later I had tons and tons of carbon built up inside the barrel extension and it needed just that extra bit of scrape to get it out. I was shooting Tula, and the last thing I wanted was Tula carbon built up on my $400 noveske barrel.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 21:07
Use solvents, do not scrape! Is this really rocket science? Montana Copper Killer works extremely well. Take the easy, smart route. You are obsessing at this point.
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 21:13
Use solvents, do not scrape! Is this really rocket science? Montana Copper Killer works extremely well. Take the easy, smart route. You are obsessing at this point.
Easy, killer. Don't take everything in the literal sense. I'm not shoving a pick into the barrel extension and jerking it around like butter churn. And even if I were, what is it to you?
Use solvents, do not scrape! Is this really rocket science? Montana Copper Killer works extremely well. Take the easy, smart route. You are obsessing at this point.
Holy smokes...me and the Dude agree on a point under the cleaning/maintenance category.
Letting your bolt, carrier, and other broken down parts sit sprayed thoroughly down with Hoppes elite/mpro7 for 10min and then a toothbrush will totally clean them up. No need for any kinda of scraping and I'm not jumping on the previous poster just for the record.
Littlelebowski
05-17-11, 21:23
The problem with scraping is that to actually scrape the carbon off, you usually need metal. I ****ing know, did it enough at Horno and Las Flores for 8 years. Scraping precision fit metal surfaces is a bad idea, it alters the dimensions. It's also a waste of time. Soak it in solvent, scrub off every 500-2k rds. Lube your rifle heavily, punch the bore when accuracy drops off, and shoot more, clean less.
Leonidas24
05-17-11, 21:34
The problem with scraping is that to actually scrape the carbon off, you usually need metal. I ****ing know, did it enough at Horno and Las Flores for 8 years. Scraping precision fit metal surfaces is a bad idea, it alters the dimensions. It's also a waste of time. Soak it in solvent, scrub off every 500-2k rds. Lube your rifle heavily, punch the bore when accuracy drops off, and shoot more, clean less.
Ok, let me rephrase the "scraping" part. I'm not scraping, I'm gently and tenderly picking the caked on carbon that will not come off on its own in an inaccessible place. The pressure I am applying when I "scrape" is more than likely less than the pressure applied when spinning a chamber brush to get the carbon loosened in the barrel extension.
The_Biased_Observer
05-17-11, 22:00
If Im out of BC I use simple green with water. Works great as long as you have a compressor.
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Littlelebowski
05-18-11, 05:21
Ok, let me rephrase the "scraping" part. I'm not scraping, I'm gently and tenderly picking the caked on carbon that will not come off on its own in an inaccessible place. The pressure I am applying when I "scrape" is more than likely less than the pressure applied when spinning a chamber brush to get the carbon loosened in the barrel extension.
Try blasting it with BC before you write off the technique. Do it outdoors and let it dry before relubing (takes a minute or two).
It's a lot faster and mo' betta.
Leonidas24
05-18-11, 07:49
Try blasting it with BC before you write off the technique. Do it outdoors and let it dry before relubing (takes a minute or two).
It's a lot faster and mo' betta.
Yeah I already do that, and when the carbon doesn't come off out come the picks. Then after I loosen the chunk of carbon in question I hit it again with brake cleaner and call it a day. Honestly I think we're on the same page here.
With a bit of looking around I can often times find brake cleaner for $1.50-1.99 per can at Walmart and the local auto parts stores.
true but is this the non-chlorinated stuff?
personally I use carb cleaner as it is formulated to not hurt rubber and plastics.
for small parts I have a gallon can of Gunk parts cleaner and I just soak them in that. the can comes with a little basket that you lower the parts into. it can be used over and over as the particulates settle to the bottom. works really well...
If Im out of BC I use simple green with water. Works great as long as you have a compressor.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
simple green is great as a degreaser and it's non-toxic. it's cheap enough (relatively) that you can just flood it into and over parts that have grit adhering to lube.
but make sure you rinse it off completely with plain water as it can be somewhat destructive to anodized surfaces. then use compressed air to remove the water and relube copiously as it removes every last bit down to the pores in the metal.
but for what it takes in time to use the stuff, I just prefer to use some type of automotive parts or carb cleaner. and then relube copiously as these completely remove lube as well...
Simple Green + Aluminum = BAD. I'd be careful with that. Depending on your dilution ratio and what flavor of simple green, you may be OK.
Have not done an AR yet, but on my CC pistol that does get a lot of dust, grit, lint...
Field strip.
Remove grips from frame.
Compressed air to blow off the loose stuff.
CRC Brake Clean and rinse out the frame/hammer/trigger
Compressed air to dry it out.
Spray a shot of Gunzilla at the hammer, trigger, and frame.
Compressed air to blow out the excess from the hidden areas.
Wipe down with clean rag.
Slide - same thing
Meanwhile, presuming I have shot it since the last time, the barrel has some Copperzilla soaking in it.
Brush x2, swab x3,
Rinse with brake clean
Blow it out
Swab once with a patch and one shot of Gunzilla, then run a dry patch through.
Assemble
Final wipe down with clean rag. Check operation, load then holster.
steelonsteel
12-21-11, 22:46
I use brake cleaner quite a bit because I'm admitedly lazy. Works great!
I say lube it more.
Like fill the BCG with oil until it sprays out on the first few shots and gets your shirt dirty when you carry it. If oil ain't running out of the pin holes on the reciever and the whole upper is not completely gooped up with oil, then it's too dry.
I already know I'm about to hear how oil 'attracts' dirt. WTF ever, if your AR quits running when the wind picks up, you're doing it wrong...
I say lube it more.
Like fill the BCG with oil until it sprays out on the first few shots and gets your shirt dirty when you carry it. If oil ain't running out of the pin holes on the reciever and the whole upper is not completely gooped up with oil, then it's too dry.
I already know I'm about to hear how oil 'attracts' dirt. WTF ever, if your AR quits running when the wind picks up, you're doing it wrong...
Properly lubed with a good good lubricant doesn't require things to be dripping with oil.
Terminator2003
12-27-11, 17:56
true but is this the non-chlorinated stuff?
personally I use carb cleaner as it is formulated to not hurt rubber and plastics.
for small parts I have a gallon can of Gunk parts cleaner and I just soak them in that. the can comes with a little basket that you lower the parts into. it can be used over and over as the particulates settle to the bottom. works really well...
^this! Carb cleaner is just as effective for cleaning, but doesn't dry out rubber, or plastics, and doesn't strip all oils out of the pores, so it should be safer for the anodized finish too.
When I do my detailed cleaning I start by hosing everything down with hot soapy water, this usually is enough to flush out dirt, sand or grit. Just make sure you dry the whole thing well. Lucky me I have a place I can put my rifle that is about 90* and dry.
Failure2Stop
12-28-11, 00:42
Come on.
Dug up a thread from 7 months ago that has been decisicely covered and answered countless times, to talk about . . . a pistol?
In an AR GD thread?
Done, da done done, done.
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