View Full Version : DD Omega 12.0 FSP
It seems like a lot of folks dump the 12.0 FSP rail that comes on the DDM4. I thought it looked like a great system; something wrong with it? Does this mount up as strong as the "lite" models? I'd like to find a take off to set up on my 6920.
I'm looking at the 12.0 FSP and Troy's FSP model, any insight on how solid that Troy mounts?
I believe this rifle had the same rail
https://danieldefense.com/TortureTest
warriorsociologist
05-28-11, 08:58
I run one (the DD) on my CMMG Evolution .22lr upper. I'm very happy with mine-- but this particular upper is more of a 'range toy' than anything else.
love mine...looking at tangodown covers to throw on once I get everything mounted up but it's great
love mine...looking at tangodown covers to throw on once I get everything mounted up but it's great
You may have already thought of this, but those covers are THICK. They will completely change the very slim feel of that rail system. For this reason I prefer KAC panels. My M4A1 FSP is nice and round with KAC panels all around it. Being more narrow the Omega FSP will be taller and more oval in shape, but the TD panels will make it VERY tall.
It seems like a lot of folks dump the 12.0 FSP rail that comes on the DDM4. I thought it looked like a great system; something wrong with it? Does this mount up as strong as the "lite" models? I'd like to find a take off to set up on my 6920.
I'm looking at the 12.0 FSP and Troy's FSP model, any insight on how solid that Troy mounts?
Care to tell where this "lot of folks" can be found? Buying this upper to ditch the rail, considering the other models and configurations being offered, seems a bit odd.
I don't see the Omega X being anywhere under the Lite in the strenght department, especially after the tests they recently conducted to one of their DDM4's.
nothing to addd with the Omega but I just purchased the OmegaX 12.0 FSP and man is it nice kind of a combination of the lite rail and omega you have to remove the FSB still but uses the same barrel nut as the lite rails without the plate.
once its installed you can remove the rails without unpinning the FSB if you so choose...
Chad
I love it, put a magpul XT rail panel on each side and then filled in the other blank spots not taken up by gear with ladder rails and I think that gives a good grip and feel. Like gripping just shy of the front sight post and it allows me to do this while still mounting bi-pods, flashlights, and other accessories to the sides, underneath, and forward of the front sight post. Also like the QD sling mount points and use one.
Can't say I have any plans of changing it, only reason I would want a different rail system is if its a rifle of a different configuration like a mid length.
The OmegaX line is great. Slim and fairly solid.
FSP rail systems in general aren't that popular.
I purchased many of these and installed probably upwards of 20 when one particular vendor was selling them very cheap. I wish they would do that pricing again. Some were left as is and some were chopped to fit SBR's while maintaining the cutout.
Almost all of these rails were put on working rifles, some very hard use and they are all doing 100 and tough as nails, except for 1. Of course it was involved in a motor vehicle collision that totaled the entire vehicle and rifle itself.
I'm installing 1 tonight so if anyone has any advice....
As for cost, Midway has them for $199; the DD wrench you need is $10. Then add the current code to get $20 off that. Got mine delivered with the wrench for $200 total.
Here are the codes:
To receive your Savings:
1. Add regular price, in-stock products to your cart totaling:
$100 or more - Use Promotion Code 951177
$200 or more - Use Promotion Code 851177
$300 or more - Use Promotion Code 751177
$500 or more - Use Promotion Code 651177
2. Enter the promotion code into the box titled, "Promotion Code" on the shopping cart page.
3. See the discount applied on the Confirmation page near the end of the checkout.
Offer expires at 11:59 p.m. CT on May 31, 2011. Hurry!
Thanks for the heads up. Out of stock, no backorder right now.
Oh btw, check out my youtube vids. I have a FSB removal, barrel nut removal and barrel nut install vid in regards to this rail.
Must have just went on back order. They had them yesterday.
Watching videos now. Thanks!
Just finished the install on my LE6920. Thanks Surf for the videos! It took me about 45 minutes to do. I used wheel bearing grease on the barrel nut and torqued it to 70lbs with a shitty torque wrench. I hope its GTG.:confused:
The set screws are a little odd but the rail seems very solid. How much of a gap should there be between the rail and the receiver? I have about a credit card width.
Here is a pic. I'm running an old J Point MRD until I decide on what optic to get.
8569
The set screws are a little odd but the rail seems very solid. How much of a gap should there be between the rail and the receiver? I have about a credit card width.
On my DDM4, The gap is wide enough to get a credit card in there.
Jason
On my DDM4, The gap is wide enough to get a credit card in there.
Jason
Good to hear. One additional comment though; I did think that the barrel nut was not that hard as the wrench definitely left a mark...actually slipping out on one try. It seems to be gtg now.
You may have already thought of this, but those covers are THICK. They will completely change the very slim feel of that rail system. For this reason I prefer KAC panels. My M4A1 FSP is nice and round with KAC panels all around it. Being more narrow the Omega FSP will be taller and more oval in shape, but the TD panels will make it VERY tall.
Awesome thanks! Just replaced Troy BUIS with ones from KAC, mine as well use their covers too
The OmegaX line is great. Slim and fairly solid.
FSP rail systems in general aren't that popular.
Seems to me that is more likely to be the reason to buy an alternative, buying one with a fsp just to replace it just seems like a silly waste of time and money where you could of got it with more preferred rails or ones that make it cheaper. Granted you will have those who will get it then decide they don't like it.
8569
Why does it seem a lot of the 12" FSP pictures I see involve having the vertical grip or substitute a lot further up then I have mine. One of the first things I did was slide the VFG something like 5-6" closer in then it came on the rifle and is pictured. I not exactly a short person either.
Some, myself included find that a perch farther out on the rail makes for better stability.
Why does it seem a lot of the 12" FSP pictures I see involve having the vertical grip or substitute a lot further up then I have mine. One of the first things I did was slide the VFG something like 5-6" closer in then it came on the rifle and is pictured. I not exactly a short person either.Because many people are starting to realize that you can have far better control over the weapon with a more extended grip. It tends to be a love it or leave it thing.
This thread discusses the topic
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=79601
I also discuss how I have seen the evolution of the grip / hold and how it has come full circle here..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77p7kukuxVs
Bottom line is that longer rails such as this 12" DD allows shooters to get further out on the rail. If you don't need that much rail, it really doesn't make as much sense.
I just slapped it on last night around 11:30 and haven't decided where I want it yet. Actually the AFG 2 is new too and I'm not sure if I am going to like it.
I decided on this rail because I don't want to mess with pinning a LP gas block right now and I don't want to cut it down. I would also like to be able to put it back to original. This actually was plan "B". The fact that it has gotten good overall reviews and that I could get one for $200 factored greatly into the decision.
Actually, for a DD quad rail, this is one I really like.
https://danieldefense.com/rail-systems/ar-15-lite-rail/ar15-lite-railtm-9-5-fsp-carbine.html
Plan "A" was a LP GB and the Troy Extreme 11" or 13"
I am pretty sure my next AR will be a mid length build and I will get a lite barrel with a pinned LP GB and run a slick rail.
Because many people are starting to realize that you can have far better control over the weapon with a more extended grip. It tends to be a love it or leave it thing.
This thread discusses the topic
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=79601
I also discuss how I have seen the evolution of the grip / hold and how it has come full circle here..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77p7kukuxVs
Bottom line is that longer rails such as this 12" DD allows shooters to get further out on the rail. If you don't need that much rail, it really doesn't make as much sense.
I am familiar with gripping further up for more stability and have had my share of "friendly" discussions as to why a mag well grip isn't the best bet and wrap my hand around the top of the hand guard and that good stuff.
It just seems that pictures of people's rifles with more standard hand guards (none FSP ones) seem to have the vertical grip more around where I have it give or take an inch or so with a few more like 3" up but then I seem to remember a lot of the FSP hand guards having grips much further up. Could be my mind playing tricks on me and I only think there is more because I notice them more for some reason, could seem to be more because of marketing where DD wants to put emphasis on the extra length, could be people have pictures taken before they have it where it will be permanently, I could be just crazy :jester:
Thanks for the heads up. Out of stock, no backorder right now.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=944140
BTW, in your video, you didn't seem to use the DD wrench. How did you do that?
Thanks for the heads up, I picked up a few more. Ironically I signed up for the email notification of backorder from Midway but never got one.
I used the castle nut portion of the multi wrench. The problem with that is the pin is not really meant to take the torque spec for the barrel nut as it is generally just for the castle nut, so the pin is prone to breaking.
Most people I know don't torque there barrel nuts near 70 lbs, more like 35 to 40. The nice thing about the DD barrel nut is that you don't have to worry about lining up anything for the gas tube.
I run my VG at the back edge of the FSB. I used to run a AFG, it was OK but I prefered the VG
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff283/dcs12345/IMG_0485.jpg
If you saw the torque wrench I used I don't think you would be to impressed with the accuracy of the "70" lbs. I did 70 because DD recommends 50 to 75lbs, but it didn't "feel" like 70.
I had always used my buddies torque wrench in the past when I needed one. Mine is a POS I got from someone a long time ago. Its a pointer style.
I torque the DD nuts to the 65-70 ftlb range. I would prefer to be around this range than in the 35ftlb range or to the higher end of the USGI spec range.
jackblack73
06-02-11, 02:43
FWIW, the instructions from DD are to torque the barrel nut to 50 ft/lbs. My Omega X didn't come with instructions, but I emailed DD and they sent me a pdf.
FWIW, the instructions from DD are to torque the barrel nut to 50 ft/lbs. My Omega X didn't come with instructions, but I emailed DD and they sent me a pdf.
I'm trying to post a scan of the instructions but it won't let me. In step 1 it says "50-75 foot pounds"
I missed the boat on the good price.
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