View Full Version : Billet Lowers
I would like to hear some feedback from those that have billet lowers. Especially those that have built up stripped lowers. I got to thinking because an associate just recently broke an ear off of his lower while installing a Magpul trigger guard.
This is the third case that I am aware of with this manufacturer in question.
For the record I have built up one billet lower from Mega Machine and it was quick and painless.
I have a Mega AMBI lower. I am in the process of SBRing it. I will give more detaiils when my stamp comes in. I had a painless installation and it seems a bit heavy but weight was not a requirement in this specific build. I have seen several types of billet receivers and the Mega appears more robust than some of them out there.
I would like to hear some feedback from those that have billet lowers.
I've built up a lot of lowers, both billet and forged from a lot of different companies. To me, billet lowers are pretty straight forward in that they offer what was once a unique look in a lower receiver. Billet lowers have really saturated the market, with many looking so close that they hardly stand out anymore.
Until recently, billet was the only way to get a flared magwell, or ambi features.
Until recently, billet was the only way to get a flared magwell, or ambi features.
Well said. I don't think I would do a billet again. I would much rather find a forged lower with the same features. I am still on the fence with the AMBI controls.
I have a Mega GTR-3S and it has the built in trigger guard so no problems there. The finish is exellent and the plan was to get a Rainier billet upper for an accurized build.
It's got less than 100 rounds through it and did have some bolt not locking back on last round issues. The tension on the bolt release spring feels a little tight (G&R LPK) but it could have been some other things. I currently do not have a complete upper to do more testing.
I've built two rifles on DDles lowers.
Great quality for a great price.
I have a mega billet lower with an lmt upper and DD LPK. The setup has been pretty error free so far. The upper and lower are a very tight fit though. I can still take down the rifle without tools but it takes a little effort. The safety switch had to be lightly tapped in as well, but once it was in, it spun freely.
2 stripped billet BRO builds with no worries....
I am curous, was it 7075 billet that broke the ears off?
polymorpheous
06-05-11, 16:23
I am curous, was it 7075 billet that broke the ears off?
It is my understanding that most billet lowers are not 7075.
Not sure as I have been unable to locate any solid information about their stuff. I do find it interesting that they mention in their literature "no dimensional inconsistencies as with forged lowers" and yet the pics I saw show that the holes were not correct which is why the "milspec" LPK's would not install properly in some cases.
2 stripped billet BRO builds with no worries....
I am curious, was it 7075 billet that broke the ears off?
Cagemonkey
06-05-11, 16:40
Well said. I don't think I would do a billet again. I would much rather find a forged lower with the same features. I am still on the fence with the AMBI controls.I think the new Noveske lowers will be the answer many are looking for.
Not sure as I have been unable to locate any solid information about their stuff. I do find it interesting that they mention in their literature "no dimensional inconsistencies as with forged lowers" and yet the pics I saw show that the holes were not correct which is why the "milspec" LPK's would not install properly in some cases.
That's interesting. With a billet, it should be easier for a machinist to align the material to program home when using CNC machine tools, as a billet should start off squared while a forged receiver blank is already partially shaped. One manufacture claimed in an interview (forget who and where I found the interview) that's why they cut their precision receivers from billets. The squared off billet allows them greater control while making precise machine cuts
No problems with the Sun-Devil's/C3 I've built, excellent LPK fit, etc.
Not a billet promoter, just another data point.
I did support the "ear" as recommended, maybe that helped. And my understanding is that 7075 forged receivers can also break if unsupported. If anything, 7075-T6 is more brittle (but stronger in other aspects) than 6061-T651. So my suspicion is it's not an alloy difference.
Regarding alloy/heat treat: The Sun-Devil's are 6061-T651, which right up there with 7075, actually has some pro's and con's. IE: 7075 is not a magic answer, it just happens to fit the AR lower requirements well, especially for the alloys/treats available back when colt switched. But is not as corrosion resistant, and is harder to coat as well. (a large part of why SD uses it)
I would still consider the Sun-Devil billet's for bench accuracy usage now, but more for fit/finish & the tensioner than any other reason.
For serious usage carbines I now stick with top tier forged lowers, for all the reasons discussed daily on M4C.
The biggest being that I don't want tighter magwell, etc for defense usage. Also that an LMT L7C2 or L7H2 is just too easy to use as a starting point for builds.
I have built three.
All are Mega's and used the monolithic upper each time.
Two were AR15 and one was the MA TEN (308/AR10/DPMS based).
Everything fit like a glove and works fantastic.
The AR10 barrel was a little tight and had to heat up the upper a bit to get it in ~ this is common but no big deal.
I have not had one issue with my C3 Defense billet lower... and know several others down here who say the same.
I have built up a POF billet lower, a Sun Devil billet, and an Sonju Defence billet.
They were all relatively straight forward except the Sun Devil trigger guard holes are extremely tight. So much so that on the last 2 SD I still have I will use a Magpul MIAD FULL kit with the built in trigger guard so I can avoid having to deal with that. Even though I had it well supported (as well as you can holding the receiver by hand and holding on your support) I still bent the trigger guard ear a little (did not break it).
The POF trigger guard installed easily (my POF was without in-built trigger guard) and the Sonju one has integrated trigger guard.
Otherwise all have gone together no problem. I also use forged lowers and my "go to" type guns are all forged lowers (lighter weight by a hair).
SomeOtherGuy
06-05-11, 20:33
I've built up two of the Mega GTR-3S billet lowers. Both went together flawlessly, one with a G&R LPK, the other with a Spike's LPK. They do seem perfect dimensionally, but I've never encountered dimensional problems with the various forged lowers I've built either.
I've built at least four conventional forged lowers without damaging the "ears," but the flip-down guard strikes me as an idea whose time long passed, if it ever had a time. The Soviets somehow managed with fixed trigger guards in -50 temps, so I have to think an enlarged fixed guard is fine, like on some billet lowers or by using the various aftermarket trigger guard inserts.
I bought my Megas primarily for the trigger guard and, frankly, looks and something different. I probably wouldn't have bothered if a forged lower with a fixed large trigger guard had been available. The Noveske FFL looks perfect, but for $250 and limited availability I'm not sure how soon I'll have one. I would keep an eye out for S&W stripped lowers with their new integral trigger guard design - if they put it on their $599 "Sport" I don't see why they would refuse to sell it as a stripped lower.
Toyoland66
06-05-11, 20:55
Not billet related but relevant to the OP.
I have found the roll pins supplied with the MOE trigger guards to be very tight and difficult to install.
Nine Sun Devil lowers, no problems. Three did have integral trigger guards though, so as far as trigger guards go the count is six installed on billets.
I've built on a Seekins billet, and while the trigger guard is machined en bloc, the rest of the build was incredibly easy and precise, compared to comparable forged lowers I've built on.
Hard to explain, but the pins slid in with a fit that was less than "light drive", but was firmer than most thumb push fits.
I've installed a lot of aircraft control surfaces in my career, and these fit like the flaperons/ailerons of some large aircraft I've installed.
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