M&P - Anybody Ever Relieve (Not Remove) the Beavertail?

[Erik 1]

I posted this on mp-pistol.com and haven't gotten any response so I thought I would try it over here as well.

The purpose of relieving the beavertail would be to remove some material along the side, where the base of the firing hand thumb contacts it. I did a search on the other site and found a number of threads where people complain that their firing hand thumb gets rubbed raw at the base during extended firing sessions. A quick search on this site didn't come up with anything relevant. I've had the same experience when shooting my FS9 with thumb safety (firing hand thumb resting on safety). I have been thinking that if I relieve the part of the beavertail that my thumb rests against when I have a firing grip, it might help that problem as well as making the firing grip feel more comfortable/natural. Basically, I think the frame is a bit too wide for me in that spot. This is not a fit issue that can be addressed by changing backstraps (besides which, I'm using CT grips, so that's not an option I would want to pursue). I see where a lot of people remove the end of the beavertail, but I haven't found any examples where someone relieved it this way, or narrowed that part of the frame. I figured I'd throw this out there and see if anybody has done this or seen it done. Pics would be great if you have. Thanks.

[Magsz]

Absolutely.

Ben at Boresight does this and so do alot of other Smiths.

I personally found the profile of the beavertail to be a little too "square".

[toekneeg]

In the M&P picture thread there have been a few that removed the beavertail. I kind of understand why but personally I loved having the beavertail there. I say "loved" because I just sold of my M&P9 for an M&P45c :D

It wouldn't be hard. Just get a hold of a belt sander or some kind of stationary sander and go to town. If you'd rather just relieve it, just get a dremel with a sanding attachment and take little by little until you're happy with it. Once you're good, polish it up and smooth it out.

[Erik 1]

Thanks! I don't want to remove it, but I do want to take it down a little on the one side. I'll check out Boresight for some ideas.

[dwhitehorne]

I had the same issue with the XD and the P7M13. Wouldn't taking material off the side of the M&P get you into where the rear roll pin sits? Take a look at the CZ 75 and you will see where the frame is relieved in the area you are talking about. It may give you an idea of what to trim on the M&P. I just wonder how much material is there to trim. My solution to the P7 was wear a bandaid. Probably not the solution you wanted. Good luck. David

[Magsz]

There is plenty of contouring that can be done in that area without getting into the meat of the frame where the roll pin sits.

[Erik 1]

I do think I will have to hit the area where the roll pin is to get the results I want but I don't see any real problem with taking a bit off the pin as part of the process. I'll check out the CZ. Thanks.

[RogerinTPA]

I second Ben @ boresightsolutions. He did two beavertail reductions for my FS9 and FS40, as well as stippling. He does outstanding work.:cool:

[Erik 1]

Thanks. Whatever I do, I will likely do it myself so that I can experiment with it and avoid downtime associated with shipping.

[longball]

If you go through with this please tell us about your process and let us know how it turns out.

[sgt peppers]

I second Ben @ boresightsolutions. He did two beavertail reductions for my FS9 and FS40, as well as stippling. He does outstanding work.:cool:

Can you include some pictures?

[gundawg]

Absolutely.

Ben at Boresight does this and so do alot of other Smiths.

I personally found the profile of the beavertail to be a little too "square".

i am glad to see i am not the only one with this issue, i love my MP 9c, it’s me EDC, but when i practice, the base knuckle of my shooting hand gets raw. I may have to looking into these modifications by boresight

[RogerinTPA]

Can you include some pictures?

I'm in A-Stan with a different computer, so no personal pics, but if you look up his website, there are ample pics of his work.

A caution for those who may do this at home, one of my two pistol's beaver tail had an "Air pocket", which Ben made clear, was an issue with the injected molding process, and can occur in some M&Ps beaver tail. Ben filled in the air pocket and blended the resin perfectly, but you can still see it.

[MookNW]

Mis-post

[DJK]

Can you include some pictures?

Orange search button: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=28386 :D

[Erik 1]

Ben's work is really astonishing. Thanks for the pictures and the links.

[dojpros]

Ben is an artist no doubt.

If you want to DIY, I am now extropolating my exper. in removing the finger grooves of my Glock.

Unload and field strip

Tape off areas with masking tape that I did not want to sand away

Put frame in vise and use two thin paperbacks to protect the frame

Use strips of increasingly fine grits of sand paper "shoeshine" stoke the area in question ( i.e 150/400/600 grit) .

I would caution against using the dremel. Between the abrasion and the heat it generates, the dremel can take off a lot of material very quickly

FWIW

David