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bornhunter04
06-17-11, 02:55
Alright, i tried searching but my search function doesn't want work with ff here at work, and the hide won't render right.... I found a similar question/post but the op never got an answer.

I have a remington 700 sps-v .308 26" heavy barrel and i'm not impressed with the plastic factory stock. I know that the barrel is not free-floated and the action isn't bedded. So my idea is, to dremel out the barrel channel and then stick a piece of aluminum strap mabye 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick running from just in front of the recoil lug to the tip of the stock (however long that is) and epoxy it into the stock and then free-float the barrel.

the gun shoots good now, but i just want it to shoot 'that much better'.

So my question is would this work as a cheap/temp fix to stiffen up and free-float the barrel until i can save up for a manner's gat?

Theoretically if i could stiffen up the rest of the stock i could bed the action too, right?

edit: the rifle is left handed too limiting stock choices

Dave L.
06-17-11, 04:02
Looks like this guy had the same problem as you:
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?t=55352

MistWolf
06-17-11, 05:44
A good way to stiffen the forearm is to use arrow shafts. Cut the forearm so the arrow shafts will fit down inside, then cover them with epoxy or other resin and glue them into place. The combination of the epoxy and hollow shafts will stiffen the forearm without adding much weight

bornhunter04
06-17-11, 05:49
i never even thought of using arrows, i think i've still got some old shafts i don't use anymore, have to look. thanks for the idea!

MistWolf
06-17-11, 07:14
You're welcome. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me

Kahlendrrari
06-17-11, 21:09
i don't think you even need to put anything down there. just dremel it out a little, temp install the action, and load the bipod or whatever else you are shooting off of. if it still touches take a little more off. i'm pretty sure if you don't distribute the stress of recoil evenly then you have done is all for nothing. what i have read about most guys doing is just taking a wooden dowel and wrapping some sandpaper around it. (needs to be roughly the same size, or a little bigger than the barrel) and spinning it in the barrel channel. that should freefloat the whole channel, or at least get rid of the high spots.

bornhunter04
06-17-11, 23:56
right, thats the plan after i strengthen up the stock a little bit, i've got the cheap pos plastic stock on there, lesser grade than the hogue, i can feel it flex a little with the barrel action mounted. I've already got the materials so, it's worth a shot to give it a try. My real plan is to build a custom one day and then have the barrel on this cut to 18" for a fast handling deer/coyote rifle. These rifles are so damned front heavy right with the factory stock; i had it did a flip out of my lead sled when i first got it. Landed on the objective end of the vx-1 that was mounted at the time, dented the bell a little but it never lost zero. That scope now sits on an h&r 12 gauge slug gun.

carbinero
06-18-11, 08:36
You don't have to go back very far to find this:

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=79525

bornhunter04
06-19-11, 21:43
I saw that but the op is asking about new stocks. And the hogue stock on the 700 sps tactical is different than the stock on the sps varmint. i believe the sps-v stock is an even cheaper hogue stock. I'm asking about performing 'surgery' on the stock i have not simply replacing it.