Help Identifying S&W Revolver

[RRVII]

Hey Guys. My father-in-law just gave me a S&W .38 special revolver that he has kept in his closet for the past few decades. From the pictures I have found on the internet, it looks to be a model 10, but I can't find a model number anywhere on the gun. On the crane, it is stamped 3J 27313. It has, I believe a nickel finish and wooden grips. Any ideas on identifying this revolver? I haven't taken a picture of it yet, but it looks like this one.

9024

Thanks.

Randy

[Sgt_Gold]

I believe you have a pre 1957 Model 10. After '57 the tapered barrel was replaced with a bull barrel, and S&W started serial numbering all their pistols. There is probably no serial number on the bottom of the grip. The numbers in the crane may be the SN, or it might by a production code. If the hammer and trigger are case hardened and not nickel finished the finish could be factory. Other than that it's difficult to tell anything else without a picture.

[RRVII]

Thanks for the info. I believe there was a serial # on the bottom of the grip, but I will double check. I will also post a pic of the actual revolver when I get home this evening. Thanks again.

Randy

[titsonritz]

Maybe this will help:

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W

[RRVII]

Thanks for the link. I will check that as well when I get home this evening.

Randy

[Timbonez]

I believe you have a pre 1957 Model 10. After '57 the tapered barrel was replaced with a bull barrel, and S&W started serial numbering all their pistols. There is probably no serial number on the bottom of the grip. The numbers in the crane may be the SN, or it might by a production code. If the hammer and trigger are case hardened and not nickel finished the finish could be factory. Other than that it's difficult to tell anything else without a picture.

This is not exactly true. I have a 5" model 10 from around 1962 (based on SN) and it has a tapered barrel. Then again, S&W was known to hold on to a lot of frames and parts for years before they were built into a revolver.

[okie john]

Then again, S&W was known to hold on to a lot of frames and parts for years before they were built into a revolver.

Exactly. Anything is possible with Smith revolvers, and they DID make tapered-barrel K-frame 38's and bull-barreled guns at the same time.

The number inside the crane is an assembly number. It means almost nothing to anyone outside the factory.

Your revolver is a 4” K-frame 38. The serrated front sight and the lack of a model marking inside the crane mean that it’s probably a late M&P, sometimes called a pre-Model 10. I suspect the grips have been swapped and will not number to the gun.

This model was the Glock of its day, one of the most common guns Smith ever made, and nearly all of them were put to work immediately after purchase. Your example is in far better condition than usual for this model. Some folks will pay a premium for a clean, all-original piece in nickel, so it’s probably worth somewhere near $500 to the right guy.

A few things that will help us identify your gun:
1. Smith K-frames are all serial numbered on the butt—if there’s no number there, then it’s been removed and you have a bigger problem. It may also be stamped on the underside of the barrel and on the extractor star. There's probably a letter in there somewhere. Let us know the number and letter, showing the last 2-3 digits with X’s for privacy.
2. Pull the grips and see if the serial number is there. It’s in pencil on early guns and stamped on later ones. Yours should be stamped.
3. Show us the markings on both sides of the barrel.

This stuff will help clear up lingering confusion, as much as that's possible with a Smith revolver.

Thanks,


Okie John

[RRVII]

Thanks for all of the input guys. I tried to post a couple of pictures of the actual revolver, but the file was too big to upload and I couldn't figure out how to adjust it. Anyway, there is a serial number stamped on the butt, as well as under the barrel. It is one letter and 5 digits; C 794xx. If I am reading the link provided correctly, that dates it at 1948-52? Also, this particular gun has a 5" barrel. If I can figure out how to reduce the size of the picture files, I will post them. Thanks again for all of your input. I really appreciate it.

Randy

[Alpha Sierra]

I believe you have a pre 1957 Model 10. After '57 the tapered barrel was replaced with a bull barrel, .

Nope, the skinny barrel Model 10s were made well into the 70s. I have a tapered barrel 10-5 from 1972.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp290/JRossy/guns/DSC01376.jpg

[Coogan]

Hey Guys. My father-in-law just gave me a S&W .38 special revolver that he has kept in his closet for the past few decades. From the pictures I have found on the internet, it looks to be a model 10, but I can't find a model number anywhere on the gun. On the crane, it is stamped 3J 27313. It has, I believe a nickel finish and wooden grips. Any ideas on identifying this revolver? I haven't taken a picture of it yet, but it looks like this one.

9024

Thanks.

Randy

The serial number dates it to 1971/72. It should be a Model 10-x.

[Magic_Salad0892]

I need to get a Model 10...

[RRVII]

O.K. Here are the pics of the actual revolver.

9046
9047

[RRVII]

9050

9051

[Dr Dues]

The "half moon" front sight would place it pre '52. Thats all I can tell from the pics.

Anyway, I'm sure it would be a fun shooter!

[penates]

From the looks of the revolver it is a S&W M&P which was the forerunner of the Model 10, Smith and Wesson did not use the model number system until 1957. It appears to have a five inch barrel and a nickle finish. (As an aside this was the configuration ordered by the Detroit PD) On the butt of the pistol there should be a letter C or a letter S. If it's an S it was made pre 48 a C post 48. These revolvers should not be given a steady dose of +P ammo either.

[okie john]

Yep, that's an M&P. The fish hook hammer, old-style cylinder latch, half-moon front sight, and diamond grips (if they're original) place it just after WWII. Also, I think that's a 6" barrel--you measure it from the cylinder face, not the front of the frame. Based on the color of the finish, the gun may have been re-finished in chrome. Can you send pictures of the S&W logo on the sideplate?


Okie John

[40Arpent]

I need to get a Model 10...

Yes, you do. Everyone should have one.

[KBAR-04]

They did sell them well into the 70s with the tapered barrel. I worked in a gunshop as a summer job in 1976 in Georgia and we sold quite a few S&W revolvers. I remember one exactly in that configuration, nickel with the tapered 4 inch barrel, brand new it was $129.00 if I recall. The bulk of our business back then was revolvers, S&W and Colt. We did carry new Colt 1911 pistols, but I just dont recall many other autos.

[Spurholder]

Yes, you do. Everyone should have one.

I'm still kicking myself for not buying one of the Royal Hong Kong Police turn-ins years ago...

:(