Tore up my glock frame a little..

[Hyprlite2007]

So Ill spare you the details on how this happened but basically I put a light on the rail of my brand new Gen 4 19 and it would appear that it was tightened on enough causing it to tear up my rail and frame a bit. The reason Im posting on here is because Im curious if theres a way to trim that down or smooth it out any, not that its a huge deal at all but its somewhat inconvenient to the eye. Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/LilCNooga/DSCN3031-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/LilCNooga/DSCN3032-1.jpg

[opmike]

Personally, I'd just knock it down with some course sand paper. Finish up with some fine grit, and call it a day.

[asianhulk]

I would call glock and send them these photos, I have heard that they take care of you. Though I have not used their CS personally.

[Wayne Dobbs]

Dude!

Did you use a cheater bar to tighten that light down or what? I hope that Glock helps you, but I bet you're going to buy a new frame.

[bleaman225]

What kind of light was it?

I would do what opmike suggested. Maybe use a medium file somewhere in the mix too.

[asianhulk]

But if you file it, it may not have enough surface for the light to mount.

[Dobie]

Its toast - I will give you a hundred bucks for it to ease your pain :smile:

Seriously take a dremel at low speed and carefully smooth it out and shoot the snot out of it.

[SteveL]

I'd really like to know what kind of light that was.

[bleaman225]

But if you file it, it may not have enough surface for the light to mount.

Looks like a x300 or tlr-1 would still work even with the bulged material removed.

I personally would do it.

[uwe1]

Did you have the proper insert key for the light mount?

The notch for Glocks is narrower than the 1913 Picatinny notch. It looks like you tried to force the light on the rail and when it didn't grab the rail evenly, because the 1913 key won't fit into the Glock slot, you tried to crank down on the knob which caused the clamp to grab the rail at an angle creating that deformation.

[Hyprlite2007]

But if you file it, it may not have enough surface for the light to mount.

Thats mainly what Im worried about when I think about dremeling or sanding it down..

Also it was just a cheap light that I (for some stupid reason) thought would fit correctly and didnt tighten down enough at all apparently.

[RagweedZulu]

This never would have happened with a Gen3. :lol:

[CLHC]

Well, I've got a ding-dinger too on my G19 that I can't figure out what/when/how? Nevertheless, I'm not overly concerned about it now. Hope you get yours "squared" away!

http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=77011

[gun71530]

I would sand it down as well. No offense but at this point what more harm is it going to do.

[GeorgiaBoy]

Its just some character marks... :p

[varoadking]

Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.


Don't do that again...

[The Dumb Gun Collector]

Bah. Just sand it down. Stipple the grips and some other stuff while you are at it and who can tell?

[JOHNO]

You should see how one looks after having a rapelling rope rub a hole through the frame. It still worked fine until it was retired.........several years later.

[ssracer]

Its toast - I will give you a hundred bucks for it to ease your pain :smile:

Seriously take a dremel at low speed and carefully smooth it out and shoot the snot out of it.

I would not use a dremel...even at low speed it will likely melt the plastic. This would then build up and be a pain to smooth out. Start with a light file, then progressively fine sandpapers. Scuff with a scotch bright pad at the and to knock any shine off of it.

I've used this technique on various plastics with very good sucess.

[aaron_c]

I thought Glocks were dropped from helicopters at 50,000 feet onto kryptonite and survived without a scratch? ;)

On a more serious note, I would NOT file it down or do ANYTHING to it before talking things over with Glock CS. If you sand it down and decide later that you want it back the way it was stock (undamaged), it'll be too late.

[Thomas M-4]

I have never had to fix something like that. But I have done a stripping job on polymer frames.

I bet if you can find access to a heating gun or some-form of heating element. I have a paint stripper gun for example. I would try to reform as best I could the displaced plastic [working extremely slowly and tacking your time this is key]. This will not fix it all it is to just merely get the biggest parts of the deformation some what straight and into the correct position. After that I would use a small file set. Sear's sell these and clean it up the rest the best that I could from there.

[Redberens]

Assuming the rails are still functional, you could get a better light and put it on. That would cover the marks and provide a needed tool.

[forgiven]

LOL - what the heck did you try to do, screw it into the wrong spot or use the light while attached as a hammer?

[Magsz]

I have never had to fix something like that. But I have done a stripping job on polymer frames.

I bet if you can find access to a heating gun or some-form of heating element. I have a paint stripper gun for example. I would try to reform as best I could the displaced plastic [working extremely slowly and tacking your time this is key]. This will not fix it all it is to just merely get the biggest parts of the deformation some what straight and into the correct position. After that I would use a small file set. Sear's sell these and clean it up the rest the best that I could from there.

The dustcover is hardly a critical part of the firearm but the LAST thing you want to do is apply heat with the intention of deforming the material in an area that could come in contact with the recoil spring assembly.

To the OP.

Simply knock off the sharp edges with sandpaper and find a light that will lock into the remainder of your guns rail slot. Call it a day.

People, you are over thinking this...

[aaron_c]

The dustcover is hardly a critical part of the firearm but the LAST thing you want to do is apply heat with the intention of deforming the material in an area that could come in contact with the recoil spring assembly.

To the OP.

Simply knock off the sharp edges with sandpaper and find a light that will lock into the remainder of your guns rail slot. Call it a day.

People, you are over thinking this...

I think this is over thinking it! Wouldn't it be easier to call Glock up on Monday and see if they can do something to make it how it's supposed to be, instead of doing a hack job on it? Not knocking you at all, I just don't want the OP to sand it down and then call Glock in a month when nothing will attach, and have Glock say "well you sanded your rail down, what were you expecting...".

[RagweedZulu]

I think this is over thinking it! Wouldn't it be easier to call Glock up on Monday and see if they can do something to make it how it's supposed to be, instead of doing a hack job on it? Not knocking you at all, I just don't want the OP to sand it down and then call Glock in a month when nothing will attach, and have Glock say "well you sanded your rail down, what were you expecting...".

I think Glock is already going to say " what were you thinking?"

Do not apply heat to a plastic gun to mold small areas! What do you think is going to happen to the frame!? Bending/twisting out of alignment is what. Call Glock. Listen to them laugh and turn y ou down, THEN use the file/sanding sparingly. As mentioned above, you still have a great pistol! Use a handheld flashlight technique and call it a night!

[darr3239]

I think Glock is already going to say " what were you thinking?"

Yep. And getting an entirely new frame will have the associated paperwork of buying a new gun. The serial number plate is permanently affixed to the frame.

[Thomas M-4]

The dustcover is hardly a critical part of the firearm but the LAST thing you want to do is apply heat with the intention of deforming the material in an area that could come in contact with the recoil spring assembly.

To the OP.

Simply knock off the sharp edges with sandpaper and find a light that will lock into the remainder of your guns rail slot. Call it a day.

People, you are over thinking this...

Maybe I worded it wrong? I would not heat the entire rail/dust cover to that point. Just the displaced plastic and only just to get what I could to lay down. A plain cigarette lighter would probably work if you were real careful and didn't hold it to the flame. And the you would still have to sand or file it down. My whole point is if you can push some of the material down then that is less that you have to take off with sandpaper.
Your way should work also ,it is just my mentality I always want to remove as little material as possible. They do use a propane torch briskly waving it over the plastic frame to reduplicate the factory textured surface:eek: Witch is way out of my comfort zone of doing, But I am just stating what some gunsmiths do to plastic frames. Ultimately its up to the OP to decide what he is comfortable with.

[Thomas M-4]

To the OP if you have ever wanted to get a grip reduction and or stripling now may be the best time. Send the pics of your rail to the gunsmith and see if they can do some thing for the rail. It probably is not the first time it has been done.

[jcemt]

Assuming the rails are still functional, you could get a better light and put it on. That would cover the marks and provide a needed tool.

X2. That's what I'd do in this situation.