Best way to prep My Smith M&P 15-22 for paint

[LBLDOG]

Just bought a new Smith AR and wanting to paint. What's the best way to prep for paint, sand or scuff polymer stock or not what's best?

[usmcvet]

Check these three threads out:

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=5102

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=84435

You might have to join to read the articles but it is worth it.

http://lightfighter.net/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9046084761/m/143106357?f=9046084761&a=tpc&m=143106357&s=7336015661

[BCmJUnKie]

All you will need is a couple 3M scouring pads (green).

Paper towels

Dawn

600 Grit wet sand paper

Use the scouring pad first, over the parts you want to paint

Wet sand it, fill a bucket halfway with warm water and some dawn, let it dry so you can see if you missed anyplace, be sure to get the corners good.
Wash it with new warm water and dawn with a paper towel and rinse!

[RGoose]

Clean and degreaser, a little tape between the upper and lower, close the ejection port and throw in an old mag. Put tape on the front sight post and rear sight (optional). Bust out the paint.

[Underwhere]

Just bought a new Smith AR and wanting to paint. What's the best way to prep for paint, sand or scuff polymer stock or not what's best?

It all depends on what kind of paint you use. If you're using spray cans, then I'd follow the directions on the can.

The M&P 15 polymer isn't a magical polymer that needs to be treated differently than others.

If you are using spray cans, I would advise against anything Duplicolor. I find they have the worst quality paint and often times doesn't even come close to matching the color displayed.

I personally wouldn't take the time to wash, degrease and scuff just to throw spray can paint on it. Spray paint chips and gets knocked off pretty easily. I'd just scuff quickly, wipe down with alcohol wipes and paint.

I save the time intensive cleaning/degreasing prep for Cerakote.

[BCmJUnKie]

It all depends on what kind of paint you use. If you're using spray cans, then I'd follow the directions on the can.
I personally wouldn't take the time to wash, degrease and scuff just to throw spray can paint on it. Spray paint chips and gets knocked off pretty easily. I'd just scuff quickly, wipe down with alcohol wipes and paint. .

This isnt correct at all. Your paint job is only as good as your foundation.

Unless you want a half ass job I guess it wouldnt matter. You have to have something for paint to "bite" into.

I have painted alot of rifles and the jobs are STILL GTG. I usually finish with a matte clearcoat, it hardens the outside and prevents chips

[99HMC4]

This is all after tear down;
Use a goos automotive grade degreaser, wet on wet wipe off before it dries. Air dry, then hot soapy water (dawn soap), air dry again. I use a sprayable adhesion promoter, bulldog in a spray can with light even coats (maybe two at most) will do great. Light coats of your final paint whatever it is. Let it flash between coats a few minutes and you should have a great job in the end....

[BCmJUnKie]

Spray Paint = half ass job no matter how you do it.
If you're going to spend a ton of time prepping then why aren't you using a better media?

I dont give a shit if im using House of Kolor, One shot, Dupont or krylon. Its called taking a little pride in what you do. Ive been painting for around 6 years for Indy racers, MotoGP, Karts, dragsters etc etc blah blah blah.

People see my portfolio and cant tell the difference between Krylon or HOK...And who said anything about taking 8 hours? How long does it take you to prep a surface???

And youre exactly right, people spend thousands of dollars on a rifle, why half ass it, I dont give a shit if its Krylon, take your time and show a little pride in your work.

Im pretty sure the OP asked for best way to prep a rifle, He didnt ask about shortcuts or what you do to yours. The business Im in is CONSTANT fixing other peoples **** ups that could have been done right THE FIRST TIME!

[Underwhere]

This isnt correct at all. Your paint job is only as good as your foundation.

Unless you want a half ass job I guess it wouldnt matter. You have to have something for paint to "bite" into.

I have painted alot of rifles and the jobs are STILL GTG. I usually finish with a matte clearcoat, it hardens the outside and prevents chips

Spray Paint = half ass job no matter how you do it.
Follow the instructions on the can. Krylon isn't going to know it's going on an M&P15-22 vs a Tyco RC car vs a Big Wheels.

It's very funny to see how enthusiasts can turn something as simple and mundane as spray painting into something that requires such strict procedures.

It's also very funny that a lot of people spend thousands on the nicest equipment that will far outperform their abilities and environments yet go to Home Depot for some Krylon to add a finishing touch.

Yes you will need to prep it but someone who spends 8 hours prepping a rifle is going to get no noticeable difference between someone who spends 20 minutes. Bang it up against a cinder block or brick wall and you are going to lose paint either way.

The whole point of spray paint is that it's easy and anyone can do it...even children. Simple prep and spray. When it scratches off or chips then just touch it up. Easy.

I've done automotive catalyzed paint, airbrushing, Cerakote, and although I hate to admit it I have done a few things with spray cans.
If you're going to spend a ton of time prepping then why aren't you using a better media?

[Underwhere]

hows it gonna look in a year?

I think youre taking me wrong man, I dont know how you do things, you dont know how I do them,

Im thinking about the guy thats asking for the best possible way, why tell him he only needs to wipe it down? why not give him the proper way to scuff and create the best possible substrate for his paint to stick to, hes not asking for anyone to come and do the labor.

edit: Im not easy on ANY of my weapons, I dont own a single safe queen, my stuff gets used on a weekly basis, I need a good prep before I paint

The stuff I do is Cerakote. It's the most durable stuff I've ever used and in a year's time it'll pretty much look the same.

All I'm saying is that for spray paint there's no reason to "go all out"...if you really wanted to prep it the "right" way you could scuff, drown in water and Dawn, wipe with alcohol, spray an adhesion promoter, prime it with plastic primer, then spray it.

Maybe we just differ in our belief in spray paint but if I did all that prep work, there's no way I'd use a can of spray paint on it.

[BCmJUnKie]

The stuff I do is Cerakote. It's the most durable stuff I've ever used and in a year's time it'll pretty much look the same.

All I'm saying is that for spray paint there's no reason to "go all out"...if you really wanted to prep it the "right" way you could scuff, drown in water and Dawn, wipe with alcohol, spray an adhesion promoter, prime it with plastic primer, then spray it.

Maybe we just differ in our belief in spray paint but if I did all that prep work, there's no way I'd use a can of spray paint on it.

Okay well why didnt you say that before lol, youre talking about carakote man, Im talking about cans, I was merely saying that using a can or not...you should have a good prep, I never said spend 5 hours on it.

The helmets I used to paint took me about a hour, that was completely stripping it down, visor, rubber trim, all hardware, foam inserts etc, and that included wet sand and masking.

A guy I know was spray canning his rifle, by FAR one of the worst jobs I have ever seen. If Im gonna use a can I want to make sure to make people say "Damn thats a spray can??" Lol

[Underwhere]

Okay well why didnt you say that before lol, youre talking about carakote man, Im talking about cans, I was merely saying that using a can or not...you should have a good prep, I never said spend 5 hours on it.

The helmets I used to paint took me about a hour, that was completely stripping it down, visor, rubber trim, all hardware, foam inserts etc, and that included wet sand and masking.

A guy I know was spray canning his rifle, by FAR one of the worst jobs I have ever seen. If Im gonna use a can I want to make sure to make people say "Damn thats a spray can??" Lol

I'm talking about spray cans too. Cerakote involves media blasting and removing oil via heat.

If for some reason I were to ever spray can a rifle and I wanted it to be a show piece and never play with it I would prep it as I had previously described.

I just don't think it's worth it to go through the trouble for spray paint...but I guess that's where we differ.

I can get pretty lasting results by scuffing and degreasing before paint.

[Underwhere]

I dont give a shit if im using House of Kolor, One shot, Dupont or krylon. Its called taking a little pride in what you do. Ive been painting for around 6 years for Indy racers, MotoGP, Karts, dragsters etc etc blah blah blah.

People see my portfolio and cant tell the difference between Krylon or HOK...And who said anything about taking 8 hours? How long does it take you to prep a surface???

And youre exactly right, people spend thousands of dollars on a rifle, why half ass it, I dont give a shit if its Krylon, take your time and show a little pride in your work.

Im pretty sure the OP asked for best way to prep a rifle, He didnt ask about shortcuts or what you do to yours. The business Im in is CONSTANT fixing other peoples **** ups that could have been done right THE FIRST TIME!

So are you saying my method which entails scuffing and wiping down with alcohol is cutting corners?

I think you're taking the internet a little too personal.

Here is me cutting corners:
http://i45.tinypic.com/wbqkv9.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/muheec.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/r7429s.jpg

[BCmJUnKie]

[QUOTE=Underwhere;1069538]So are you saying my method which entails scuffing and wiping down with alcohol is cutting corners?

I think you're taking the internet a little too personal.

Im not taking it personal at all, That looks like a great job you have done...hows it gonna look in a year?

I think youre taking me wrong man, I dont know how you do things, you dont know how I do them,

Im thinking about the guy thats asking for the best possible way, why tell him he only needs to wipe it down? why not give him the proper way to scuff and create the best possible substrate for his paint to stick to, hes not asking for anyone to come and do the labor.

edit: Im not easy on ANY of my weapons, I dont own a single safe queen, my stuff gets used on a weekly basis, I need a good prep before I paint

[BCmJUnKie]

I'm talking about spray cans too. Cerakote involves media blasting and removing oil via heat.

If for some reason I were to ever spray can a rifle and I wanted it to be a show piece and never play with it I would prep it as I had previously described.

I just don't think it's worth it to go through the trouble for spray paint...but I guess that's where we differ.

I can get pretty lasting results by scuffing and degreasing before paint.

I guess so. I do thing s the same no matter what im working with, spray can or not, Im gonna make sure its done right. Show pieces or not.

[thopkins22]

A good foundation before painting is key. Though some people want the chipped/peeled look.

But it's always been my impression that paint adheres the best to a rough oil-free environment. Anodizing and parkerizing are pretty rough and shouldn't need any scuffing(in fact I think it might wind up wearing it down and smoother.)

[RGoose]

But it's always been my impression that paint adheres the best to a rough oil-free environment. Anodizing and parkerizing are pretty rough and shouldn't need any scuffing(in fact I think it might wind up wearing it down and smoother.)

The factory finishes typically have enough tooth to make the paint adhere. The important part is to remove the oils.

[OMD]

+1 to rough enough

[bulbvivid]

Like many other things, it depends on your final intended purpose. Do you want to put on the absolute best finish that will last as long as materially possible, or do you just want to change the color of the gun without much hassle and with little regard for the durability, expecting to have to touch it up?

I personally chose the latter and just rattle-canned mine. I blasted it with brake cleaner, hit it with a brush in a couple of spots, let it dry, and went to work. I didn't scuff anything. You can see the result here: https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=795664&postcount=633

It's not real pretty, and I don't care. I just basically wanted rid of the black, and I wanted to try to achieve at least some kind of effective camouflage—a goal I didn't quite reach, but that's another conversation.

I've used the gun quite a bit since then, including monthly 3-gun matches. I don't exactly baby the thing either. It never flaked or peeled, but it did scuff in a few places, mainly from the sling rubbing on the MOE handguard, nothing major and easy to touch up if desired. I did use Aervoe paint which I think has contributed to the durability.

I just repainted it this past weekend, not because It needed it, but because I wanted to try a different pattern. If I hadn't, I believe the paint would have lasted for quite a long while yet (or will last, since I just painted over it).

Now, it's not going to look as good up close or last as long as a finish on a fastidiously prepared surface, but it still holds up for quite some time.

So, if you want it to be the best it can be, follow BCmJUnKie's knowledgeable advice. Or, you can go my route and do the minimal amount and just cover the thing.

Just depends on what you're looking for.

[LBLDOG]

I'm very thankful to all you guys who replied on the info and input on my question. Thanks again every single one of you

[BCmJUnKie]

I'm very thankful to all you guys who replied on the info and input on my question. Thanks again every single one of you

You are very welcome. Bulvivid pretty much summed it up...you want durable or long lasting? I like his idea too with being able to change patterns. Goodluck buddy. Post pics when you do it