View Full Version : Remingtin 700 .223 1:7 twist bbl...
Greetings. Has anyone rebarreled their 700 action to a faster 1:7 twist for heavier bullets (75 and 77gr)? What's a good smith / bbl to go with?
My base gun is a 700 LTR in .223.
223 Rem + 223 AI Cartridge Guide (http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html), 6mmBR.com
Barrel Twist Rate___ 1:9"
Max Bullet Weight__ 73gr BT
Another question for 700 LTR .223 owners. What is the heaviest bullet your stock 1:9 bbl will shoot accurately?
HolyRoller
11-01-07, 10:26
6mmbr.com is a great resource but that particular little factoid is not correct. In my experience you don't need 1:7 for at least some of the bigger bullets. My match AR with 1:8 twist and my patrol carbine AR with 1:9 twist both work fine with magazine-length 77s and overlength Hornady AMAX 75s. I haven't tried the 90-grain bullets, and maybe those are the ones that really really need 7:1 or 6.5:1.
Give your rifle a chance just the way she is. Before spending money on another barrel just to change the twist rate, try shooting the loads you want to shoot and see how they do.
I had George and the guys at GAP rebarrel a brand new 700VS that had a 1:12 barrel.
They put a Rock 1:8 on it. I can shoot any of the mag length 77's with it just fine. No issues up to 200yds.
PALADIN-hgwt
11-01-07, 17:22
xxxxx
That's what I'm talking about. I'm tempted.
eta: Just read up on the 700VS and the stock has the full-length aluminum bedding block, palm swell. Is it pretty much the same stock as the 700P or LTR, only black and green textured?
Also, please post pics of your rebarreled shooter! What profile bbl was the Rock 1:8? Did you bed it? I heard that if you have the HS Precision stock with the full aluminum block that only heavy contour bbls need / could use bedding.
http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/smiley_bucktooth.gif
I had George and the guys at GAP rebarrel a brand new 700VS that had a 1:12 barrel.
They put a Rock 1:8 on it. I can shoot any of the mag length 77's with it just fine. No issues up to 200yds.
Another question. Is there any reason to get a canted base - re: 20MOA for a .223 bolt action rifle? I'm thinking of getting either a Leupold VXIII with M1 knobs or a Mark 4 LR/T 3.5-10X40 M1. Leupold says it has 65 MOA of internal elevation - so I figure conservatively I'll have a tad more than 30-31 MOA of come ups?
[ I'm running this same thread on another board, so please bear with me as I am getting good feedback from both. ]
I would also vote for shooting what you have before having it rebarreled. Might just be me, but even if I know it would be getting a barrel shortly I would still be working up loads through it and having some fun.
There are plenty of good barrels out there: Obermeyer, Rock, Shaw, and Douglas are barrels I have personal experience with and all have worked great for me.
Ask around for a smith, but there are plenty well-known smiths that can do it for you. GAP, R&D (hateca), LSR, Patriot, and plenty of others can take care of that fairly easily.
The VS, LTR, and P stocks are all similar HS Precision stocks.
Barrels are not bedded, but free-floating. The action is what needs to be bedded in the stock, and it should be done in any stock. I have found that it even helps in the AI chassis, and know it will help in an HS stock. There are many instances where you can remove an HS stock and find where the block was rubbing on the barrel.
With a .223, I would personally not worry about a 20MOA base. You have a scope with a good amount of internal elevation, enough to shoot as far as you are able with a .223.
Rock-N-Ruin
11-02-07, 10:52
Another question. Is there any reason to get a canted base - re: 20MOA for a .223 bolt action rifle? I'm thinking of getting either a Leupold VXIII with M1 knobs or a Mark 4 LR/T 3.5-10X40 M1. Leupold says it has 65 MOA of internal elevation - so I figure conservatively I'll have a tad more than 30-31 MOA of come ups?
]
I'am not sure on a .223. However I do have a Rem 700 P in .308 with a Badger Ord. 20 moa base, I am running the Burris Extreme Tactical rings right now, but I don't think they will stay on the gun for long.... For optics I am running a 4.5 X 14 X 40 Mark 4 LR/T 30mm tube/mil dot... This is just my opinion but, if I was setting up a .223 bolt gun for myself, I would go with the 20moa base. For optics I would "Atleast" go for a 4.5 X 14 Mark 4 or a 6.5 X 20 mark 4 30mm tube and mildot reticle.. All the .223 I reload and shoot are in my RRA M4 and my new LMT M4.. Lovin the LMT!!! , I really havn't done any reloading for .223 accept for 55 gr. win bulk packs and that's just for plinking ammo.. so as far as bullet weight all I can say as I had good accuracy results with SS109 (I think their 62gr.??) and that was through a 1:9 16" barrel... Good luck with your new Remmy
700P and VS use different stocks. The "P" model has a large palmswell, twin sling studs out front and a slightly different forend contour.
The VS is more like the Sendero stocks.
You can get MOA bases from most major vendors for the .223, but I'm not sure my 18" .223 will reach out to distances where I would need an MOA base. In truth, I don't have many ranges where I could try it out anyway. :(
PALADIN-hgwt
11-02-07, 13:25
xxxxx
...Ask around for a smith, but there are plenty well-known smiths that can do it for you. GAP, R&D (hateca), LSR, Patriot, and plenty of others can take care of that fairly easily.
The VS, LTR, and P stocks are all similar HS Precision stocks.
Barrels are not bedded, but free-floating. The action is what needs to be bedded in the stock, and it should be done in any stock. I have found that it even helps in the AI chassis, and know it will help in an HS stock. There are many instances where you can remove an HS stock and find where the block was rubbing on the barrel.
I know Randy at R+D Precision is not taking any new work until next year (http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309497#Post309497). I will keep the HS Precision stock as I like the full length aluminum block.
PALADIN-hgwt, Nice hunting sticks. I'm thinking of taking a trip to a friend's place in Wyoming - for some deer and / or antelope hunting. So would the 700 LTR in .223 be up to the task? Maybe staying within 200 yards or so?
http://i14.tinypic.com/6d177ux.jpghttp://i16.tinypic.com/5zr64ab.jpg
http://i14.tinypic.com/6d177ux.jpghttp://i16.tinypic.com/5zr64ab.jpg
Ed, was the action trued as well or just a straight rebarrel?
Ed, was the action trued as well or just a straight rebarrel?
Yes, since he had it I figured I would have him true the action, lighten the trigger, etc.
Looks like he added a beefier recoil lug and threaded the bbl?
Yes, since he had it I figured I would have him true the action, lighten the trigger, etc.
Face_N_The_Crowd
11-08-07, 10:52
Angled Bases:
Determine Mechanical Zero of the Optic
Mount Optic
Pull Bolt and Bore Sight
Count remaining number of 'clicks' to determine total available elevation remaining
Use Software to determine drop at the furthest distance you would like to shoot.
Calculate the required elevation vs the remaining adjustment available.
Good luck
What do you'all think about a Nightforce 2.5-10x24 NSX for a .223 bold action precision rifle? Right now I have a 3.5-10x40 Mark 4 M1 TMR SFP.
What do you zero your .223 precision rifle at? 50 yd like an AR?
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