View Full Version : SCAR front sight removal
Anybody has done that? I bought two of Promoted Pawn's front sight rail kits and I wonder if anybody has installed them or have removed front sights for any other reason.
Suwannee Tim
08-09-11, 22:01
No but I am interested in the rail. Link here. (http://www.promotedpawn.com/products/25) My front sight wobbles to a ridiculous degree.
Yes. I pulled my front sight off some time ago, mainly just to see if it could be done. IIRC it is easy to do, just losen the torx head screw until it becomes disengaged from the threads. However, be careful becuase I remember there being two small ball bearings and a spring that like to fall out once you losen the screw up enough. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the other ball bearing once I realized I lost it (it was the one that was stacked on the spring to act as the detent to control the adjustments). Putting it back on took a little time, but it went back together without any issues. I'm not anywear close to my SCAR at the moment otherwise I could probaby give you a little more direction. Hope this helps.
It was stupid easy to install the promoted pawn rail.
One of my ball bearings escaped today when I took mine off to slide a light mount onto the top rail. Can't find the darn thing anywhere.
Would you mind describing where the bearings go?
I'm necroposting a bit here, but thought I'd share my experience to help others make informed decisions about the idea of changing out the backup irons on the SCAR.
I always thought the irons were ok, but wasn't wild about that little knob that had to be manipulated to raise the front sight, and the front sight isn't exactly rock solid when it's deployed. The sight picture I think leaves a bit to be desired, but they're backup irons.
I ended up picking up a Gear Sector light mount to mount one of the new LED high output G2 lights from Surefire (in FDE of course). The problem with that mount is that it must be slid down on the rail. It doesn't just fit on one side, then screw in the other side. This presented a problem since I wanted it on the top rail. The only way to get it on the top rail was to remove the front sight (see my earlier post about the wayward ball bearing that I still have no idea as to the purpose of).
I ordered the Promoted Pawn flat top kit that replaces the front flip up with a short length of rail, figuring that I'd solve the problem of having to remove something off the front to slide anything on/off in the future, and install some of Troy's micro flip up irons that are far superior in terms of lockup and sight picture. Interestingly enough, the new rail piece was too big for the notch in the gas block (which was a little mystifying, since the dimensions of the gas block are out there in the open). I ended up carefully stoning the rail with a rat-tail file until it would fit the notch, and got it secured.
Upon securing the rail piece, it turns out that the rail piece is ever so slightly lower than the top rail, not enough to be perceptible to casual observation, but low enough that you can't slide things straight back onto the top rail over it. (I only stoned the angular parts on the sides of the rail piece to get it to fit the gas block, not the bottom of it so as to reduce height.)
All that to say that once I get the Troy sights installed, I think I'll have a superior iron sight set, but I probably could have saved myself some time, money, and aggravation if I had just taken the light mount back and not messed around with my front sight. If you must take it apart, learn from my experience and do so with a big clear ziploc over the barrel so it will catch all the little parts that come shooting out.
Thus endeth my long-winded epistle.
scoutfsu99
08-30-11, 21:21
Another way to handle that GS mount is to dremel down one of the sides. That way you can rock it on and then secure it with the screw/clamp piece. Works 100% and solves that problem.
ETA: The other way is to remove the barrel, but that's more of a pain.
Thanks for the info; I am considering sending my Promoted Pawn rails back.
The Promoted Pawn Scar Flat Top Kit is a great replacement for the stock front sight. It fits snuggly into the gas block channel, which prevents any wiggle. I then put a Troy HK-style on it. This is a much better, and more stable, option IMO.
The Flat Top Kit doesn't come with instrctions, so. . . . .
Steps:
#1 - remove the small roll pin from the front sight adjustment screw nut / end cap then remove the nut / end cap.
#2 - turn the front sight adjustment screw counter clockwise until it disengages from the stock front sight (making sure to retain the small detent bearing and spring).
#3 - remove the front sight (a small ball bearing and spring will fall out of the bottom of the sight).
#4 - keeping the larger spring, which sits left to right in the gas block sight housing, start the Flat Top Rail into the channel from the right side.
#5 - replace the front sight adjustment screw, which will engage the Flat Top Rail. Turn it until the Flat Top Rail is close to the center line.
#6 - replace the front sight adjustment screw nut / end cap and replace the small retaining roll pin.
This process is actually pretty easy. If you happen to break something. . . don't stress. Call FNH USA and they will send you the parts you need.
BaronFitz wrote:
" Interestingly enough, the new rail piece was too big for the notch in the gas block (which was a little mystifying, since the dimensions of the gas block are out there in the open). I ended up carefully stoning the rail with a rat-tail file until it would fit the notch, and got it secured. "
I thought so as well when I first went to slide the rail into the channel. But it just took a little bit of force to get it started. I'm glad I didn't file mine, because the fit is nice and snug.
The stock front sight base is slightly smaller, which lets it slide freely in the channel. This also causes it to be loose with some wiggle.
The Flat Top Rail Kit is a GREAT PRODUCT!!
Thanks for the info on how to take things apart in a more controlled manner than I did. Could you elaborate a little more on the roll pin you're talking about for the screw end cap? I think I may have muscled the cap off without knowing about the roll pin, and now the end cap doesnt seem very secure when I put it back on.
I'm not worried about it moving, even after my file job... In fact when I had to pop it back off to put that darn light mount back on, I had to lube it up and smack it a few times to make it move, since the front sight set screw wasn't strong enough to push it out of the groove. I'm looking forward to my micro Troy sights arriving...I think it'll be a superior solution in the long run...I just had to get there by ice skating uphill. :)
You may have broken the roll pin in the end cap (correct FNH title: windage screw retaining wheel). If that's the case, you can order a replacement pin ($1.50). That small roll pin, and retaining wheel, keep the windage screw in place when you crank the front sight back and forth.
Make sure you didn't break the little flared tip off of the end of the front sight windage screw. That's what holds the windage screw, with the roll pin, to the retaining wheel / end cap. If so, you can get a new one (think it's between $7 and $9).
It would have helped if they had sent some instructions with the Flat Top Rail Kit!!
Still think it's a great improvement though.
Some instructions would have been great. I'll take a look at it when I get back home, but I suspect I broke the roll pin without knowing it was there. Thanks for the info!
So. . . . Went to the range today to sight in the new Flat Top Kit with the Troy HK-style front sight. Had to set the front sight so high, it was way too high. Could have mounted the Troy to the receiver rail instead, to get it a little higher, but that would defeat the purpose of the windage adjustability. So, I put the stock front sight back on. . . It's a bit tricky getting that bottom spring and ball bearing back together, but I got it done.
I think the Flat Top Kit is good in theory, but there are too many variables to get every one to work properly with all of the variances in barrel to receiver fitment.
It sits too low on my 17S to work properly, but it may work on someone else's.
Let me know if anyone is interested in a very slightly used Scar Flat Top rail.
Did you use the Troy micro sights or standard height?
Standard height HK-style Troy front with the stock Scar 17S rear sight. The top of the Scar Rail Kit sat a little lower than the top of the receiver rail.
Had the front Troy sight cranked way high. . . almost came out. . . with the rear sight all the way down to get hits on target at 100 yards.
For anybody who might be interested, here's the resolution to my particular saga:
Got in a pair of FDE Troy Micro Battlesights for use with the flat top rail kit. Before mounting or loctiting them onto the rifle, I just set them on top of the rail to see if they co-witnessed with my EOTech 553. They do not. By a long shot. I decided I'm not going to continue down this spiral of tweaks and upgrades by junking my current optic setup.
I put the factory irons back on. (it's a lot easier to put the front sight back on if you do everything with a clear ziploc bag pulled over the front sight and muzzle so any detents fall right into the bag...it's also a lot easier to get that little ball bearing and spring back into the hole on the bottom of the sight tower if you press down on the bearing with a flat blade screwdriver while sliding it onto the gas block.)
I ordered some replacement small parts from FN to replace the ones I dicked up in my ignorance (they were easy to deal with...thanks to Volkovich for the part names.) Once they get in, I'll put them back in, and I'm going to go order the flashlight mount I should have ordered in the first place.
Now to go put some barely used gear on the EE, since I'm not a fan of being double soaked for return shipping AND restocking fees.
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