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Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 19:45
My carbine isn't what I thought, and with the new shooting techniques, plus my very active entrance back into 3-gun, I'm wanting to really build a new weapon system for match, but also practicality in today's unsure world. My dilemma stems between what length of the barrel, lower, parts kits, trigger system, battery assist device, barrel type (more on that), and either a gas block, or switchblock.

Here are my choices I have narrowed down to:

Lowers
Noveske flared lower (when it comes out).
LaRue billet lower

Upper
Noveske
VLTOR MUR

Trigger
Geissele S3G
Geissele Two Stage
Geissele DMR

Barrel
Noveske SS
Noveske hammer forge

Length
14.5"
16"

My intent is to build this system here at home (with correct tools, of course). My other intent is to use the lower as a SPR. So, do I need to think about matching lower to upper receivers with the same company, are my choices compatible with each other, and what are the pros and cons of on what I have selected. I want the best tool for the sport I'm growing to love, plus using it with practice means (SHTF, ZOMBIES, Ginger uprising).

What I have settled on is the using Magpul's UBR stock, a LarRue Tactical free float rail system, and either an AAC blackout or brakeout with the intention of getting a suppressor down the road.

I'm looking for this weapon to be my go-to rifle system for a long time.

Here are a few of my ideas (thanks to pimp my gun):

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/5744806364_01e46a4040_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29467239@N04/5744806364/)
LaRue Noveske 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29467239@N04/5744806364/) by mauser_leo (http://www.flickr.com/people/29467239@N04/), on Flickr

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5268/5744257829_3c034e93fe_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29467239@N04/5744257829/)
LaRue Noveske 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29467239@N04/5744257829/) by mauser_leo (http://www.flickr.com/people/29467239@N04/), on Flickr

Oh yeah, trying not to make this thing into a boat anchor.

Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 20:00
Spoke to soon.

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/manufacturer&manufacturer=40&pagenumber=3

amac
08-24-11, 20:19
Why not just order direct from Noveske. Flared lowers are available. Also, they can assist in registering your lower, keeping you from having to engrave.

loganp0916
08-24-11, 20:40
I thought he wanted an SPR not SBR

amac
08-24-11, 20:55
I thought he wanted an SPR not SBR

:eek: You're right. My mind is stuck on my sBr. :D. Either way, ordering direct seems a lot easier.

loganp0916
08-24-11, 20:59
Yeah. I'd order direct too

Dutchy556
08-24-11, 21:35
Here are my thoughts...


...

Here are my choices I have narrowed down to:

Lowers
Noveske flared lower (when it comes out). Its out, I'd go with the Noveske
LaRue billet lower

Upper
Noveske
VLTOR MUR
Either, I'd probably go MUR, but they're both good

Trigger
Geissele S3G
Geissele Two Stage
Geissele DMR
Out of these, probably S3G - or look into a Super Dynamic. Maybe try and compare the 3 gun versions to the enhanced SD/SSAs and see what you prefer.

Barrel
Noveske SS
Noveske hammer forge
SS, lightweight SS if it's mostly for 3 gun, medcon if you're going to use it for precision more, IMO. Hammer forged would work fine too, but I'd go with stainless if it were me.

Length
14.5"
16"

My intent is to build this system here at home (with correct tools, of course). My other intent is to use the lower as a SPR. I think you're talking Recce more than SPR with those barrel lengths, but semantics aside... ETA: or do you mean using it with an additional SPR upper, in which case nevermind...

So, do I need to think about matching lower to upper receivers with the same company, are my choices compatible with each other all compatible, yes, don't worry about matching,

and what are the pros and cons of on what I have selected of all the components..? that's a lot to go over. search function is your friend..

...

What I have settled on is the using Magpul's UBR stock, a LarRue Tactical free float rail system, and either an AAC blackout or brakeout with the intention of getting a suppressor down the road. For three gun I'd go with the brakeout

I'm looking for this weapon to be my go-to rifle system for a long time. Go-to or 3-gun? now I'm confused... Certainly not mutually exclusive, but if you're looking to abuse the crap out of it and do a lot of high round count training that might mean a hammer forged barrel would be a better choice

...

Oh yeah, trying not to make this thing into a boat anchor. if that's the case you may want to reconsider the UBR and LaRue rails. UBR is stupid heavy, and the LaRue rails, while not crazy heavy aren't exactly light. Maybe look into a lighter tubular option like the Troy/VTAC TRX or DD MFR, or a DD Lite. Stock wise, A5 kit with an Emod would be a pretty good option for what you're wanting to do (in terms of effect on recoil impulse and being lighter than the UBR by a little bit). I have an A5 RE with Emod on my 16" Noveske bbl recce with 12" lite rail and it balances quite nicely

Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 23:09
Dutchy:

I'm wanting this to be a multi-purpose weapon. I.E. 3-gun, training, Zombies, fun, and the like. So, I'm looking for a "working" weapon, not so much as a competition weapon (lord knows I couldn't keep up with the ammo count at my budget to REALLY compete).

I have thought about ordering a weapon from Noveske direct, but I really, really want to build one of my own and choose what I want in it. For me, and my monetary limits, I'd be better off ordering it and putting it together one piece at a time instead of ordering a complete weapon, and turning around and ordering everything else (like getting a 45 degree selector from Battle Arms) to get want I am wanting in a weapon system.

I'm going to start with the lower, upper, flash suppressor, and a few other things.

I'll look into the A5 Mod stock. I am trying to keep weight in mind, but the UBR has a whole package deal and looks easier to install (sling point, battery storage). The SPR will probably come at a later date, and could come with a different receiver, so I'm not hell bent on that total idea, but keeping it in the back of my mind.

Why the 16" of the 14.5"? I understand about being able to remove flash suppressors on a 16" because of NFA crap, plus the longer barrel for velocity factor. But part of me wants a legally short barrel weapon because of the "stuff happens" preparedness of me. I've searched on here and understand some of the argument, but it's coming down to personal preference, and I'm on the edge.

Can I order a hammer forged barrel from Noveske without ordering one of their N4 uppers to get it?

Merle
08-24-11, 23:13
What's with all the zombie references?

shootist~
08-24-11, 23:19
Stainless for accuracy.

Magnified optic with BDC, Mil or MOA reticle (or turrets) unless all your rifle stages are fairly short. Red Dots just don't compete if you are shooting 10" steel at 400+.

Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 23:22
What's with all the zombie references?

Its a joke. :rolleyes: <---should have placed that in there.

Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 23:24
Stainless for accuracy.

Magnified optic with BDC, Mil or MOA reticle (or turrets) unless all your rifle stages are fairly short. Red Dots just don't compete if you are shooting 10" steel at 400+.

400 shmo-hundred. I did national match shoots way before I did 3-gun. I aim to USE my BUIS> :cool:

shootist~
08-24-11, 23:33
Irons will work (if the stage designer so desires). Not sure about non-adjustable BUIS, though.

Mauser KAR98K
08-24-11, 23:45
I got an MATECH. I'm covered.:p

Now dumb ass here who hasn't done much with optics needs to remember from now on not to remove his Aimpoint M2 when cleaning his rifle, figuring it will hold zero when I put it back on:suicide2:. I had great, fantastic groupings on a rather hard course of fire in the back of a pick-up. Got down into my sitting position and went to town.

Unfortunately all those nice, majority nickle size groupings were way the hell right!!!!!

Been shooting an M1 way to long.

Dutchy556
08-25-11, 01:14
Responses follow


Dutchy:

I'm wanting this to be a multi-purpose weapon. I.E. 3-gun, training, Zombies, fun, and the like. So, I'm looking for a "working" weapon, not so much as a competition weapon (lord knows I couldn't keep up with the ammo count at my budget to REALLY compete).

Gotcha...

Well for "working" weapons I tend to lean towards chrome lined barrels. Ultimately it comes down to what you want, though. You'll getter better longevity out of a CL barrel (hammer forged in particular) but it'll take a lot to shoot out a Noveske stainless. The medcon stainless is definitely heavier though. Everything is a trade off, but if you're going to be using it for a wide variety of tasks then maybe a good hammer forged would be a good way to go but if you're not going to do a lot of high round count classes and whatnot it probably doesn't matter much though.

I have thought about ordering a weapon from Noveske direct, but I really, really want to build one of my own and choose what I want in it. For me, and my monetary limits, I'd be better off ordering it and putting it together one piece at a time instead of ordering a complete weapon, and turning around and ordering everything else (like getting a 45 degree selector from Battle Arms) to get want I am wanting in a weapon system.

I certainly understand the urge to build your own. If you have the tools and the skills then I say go for it. That said there are so many awesome factory offerings out there that unless you already have the tools and plan to build more than one upper it can be a bit of a false economy. What about building your lower the way you want and picking one of the plethora of good uppers out there right now?

I'm going to start with the lower, upper, flash suppressor, and a few other things.

I'll look into the A5 Mod stock. I am trying to keep weight in mind, but the UBR has a whole package deal and looks easier to install (sling point, battery storage). The SPR will probably come at a later date, and could come with a different receiver, so I'm not hell bent on that total idea, but keeping it in the back of my mind.

Easy enough to put together a single lower that will work with multiple uppers. A quality lower with a G&R parts kit, Geissele, A5 RE and something like an Emod would make a good host for both your go-to upper and and SPR upper

Why the 16" of the 14.5"? I understand about being able to remove flash suppressors on a 16" because of NFA crap, plus the longer barrel for velocity factor. But part of me wants a legally short barrel weapon because of the "stuff happens" preparedness of me. I've searched on here and understand some of the argument, but it's coming down to personal preference, and I'm on the edge.

You pretty much touched on my reasoning to go with 16. Unless you know you're never going to change anything out in the future dealing with a perm pinned muzzle device can be a pain in the ass. You do get a bit more velocity out of the 16". Ultimately there's not a huge length difference practically between a pinned 14.5 and a 16". To me 16" makes more sense.

Can I order a hammer forged barrel from Noveske without ordering one of their N4 uppers to get it? As far as I'm aware not from Noveske directly. Rainier has a couple on their site but they aren't in stock. Not sure if anyone else stocks them seperately. Have you considered HF barrels from Bravo Company or Daniel Defense?

Mauser KAR98K
08-25-11, 09:49
Dutchy:

In my check list for this go-to weapon, a chrome line has been at the top of my priorities. If it wasn't I would have already bought a RRA and just stayed in the TOS camp, which I now despise and have mended my ways.

I don't shoot much as it is, and my shooting is about to get less due to school starting. However, I'm planning (and will, eventually) to go to some carbine classes, so the idea of a SS barrel has my doubts, like you have mentioned. My original intent was/is a CHF barrel, and I keep hearing the good praises of Noveske and want to give them my shot(s). But I have also been looking into BCM and DD. Here is what I'm leery of: installing the gas block and tube. I've seen the videos that it is easy to do, but I've heard stories, and worked with weapons when they weren't. Noveske seems to send theirs already installed (and wow, so does DD). Am I fretting to much on this?

Looking at it through cost and availability, if I were to with the SS barrel build with everything coming in pieces, including a BCG and charging handle, I actually save a few hundred bucks, plus have all the parts I want already instead of buying more to satisfy me. If I were to go with the DD CHF, I'd be saving more.

Decisions, decisions, decisions.

Mauser KAR98K
08-25-11, 09:51
I also should ask: should I get an anti-roll pin kit, or will everything fit nice and snug? I'm not aiming for the cool factor, but practical.

Failure2Stop
08-25-11, 10:42
1- You really need to decide if this is going to be a GP rifle or something else, and exactly what that "something else" really is.

Trying to make a GP/CQB/SPR/High-Power/3-Gun carbine simply won't work out. Now, taking your GP carbine to matches is something different, and if you aren't too concerned with winning, but rather your own personal skill development, you can have a great time.

2- Precision comes at a price. Usually in both weight and money along with a decrease in life.

One can take a nice Recce type upper and apply it to most carbine tasks, but burning down close range targets is just putting wear on the barrel.

3- Most ARs are more precise than their owners.

A decent barrel from a decent company with decent ammo should provide ~2.5 MOA for a long time. Shoot your good ammo during matches and long-range practice and cheapo ammo during close-range training.

4- Optics are a huge part of the equation.

The discussion on optics is vast and lacks clear borders. I recommend throrough examination of the topic with expectation to change your mind several times. Buy optics that support your application.

thopkins22
08-25-11, 11:00
I also should ask: should I get an anti-roll pin kit, or will everything fit nice and snug? I'm not aiming for the cool factor, but practical.

Presumably you're talking about the anti-rotation pins from KNS or whomever else might make something similar. And the answer is no you should not. They are neither cool nor practical.

Dutchy556
08-25-11, 15:26
Dutchy:

In my check list for this go-to weapon, a chrome line has been at the top of my priorities. ...

I don't shoot much as it is, and my shooting is about to get less due to school starting. However, I'm planning (and will, eventually) to go to some carbine classes, so the idea of a SS barrel has my doubts, like you have mentioned. My original intent was/is a CHF barrel, and I keep hearing the good praises of Noveske and want to give them my shot(s). But I have also been looking into BCM and DD. Here is what I'm leery of: installing the gas block and tube. I've seen the videos that it is easy to do, but I've heard stories, and worked with weapons when they weren't. Noveske seems to send theirs already installed (and wow, so does DD). Am I fretting to much on this?

Looking at it through cost and availability, if I were to with the SS barrel build with everything coming in pieces, including a BCG and charging handle, I actually save a few hundred bucks, plus have all the parts I want already instead of buying more to satisfy me. If I were to go with the DD CHF, I'd be saving more.
...


Ok, well then given this, I would probably go with a CHF barrel then.

Even with barrels that come with the gas block and everything installed you'll still have to remove them to install the barrel nut for your rail of choice and then re-install. This isn't difficult if you have the right tools but if you get stubborn pins on the gas block it can be a pain.

Given what you're saying, my honest recommendation would be buy a Noveske or BCM or DD upper in in the config that you want unless you already have all the tools that you need and just can't find a complete upper that will work for you. I understand the urge to build your own, and I'm currently waiting on the parts to put together a new upper myself but that's because what I want is really specific and not available from the factory, and I already have all the tools and have done this before... but for most other rifles I've put together in the last few years I've just picked the barrel/rail combo I wanted from BCM and thrown a BCG and CH in it, no muss no fuss.

I have a hard time seeing how you couldn't find a barrel/rail combo that will work for what you want from one of the above manufacturers. Slap it on a lower with whatever parts you want to build it with and you're good to go. The price difference should be slight if you compare apples to apples and pretty much negligible if you have to buy tools for the upper.


And skip the KNS pins...

Mauser KAR98K
08-26-11, 23:58
Just laid the ground work today. Ordered a Noveske flared lower today. Now it is time to scrap and save.

Roger that on the KNS pins.

Trigger system and UBR are next (with possibly a BAD-ASS as well). Also picked up a MIAD grip.

Toyoland66
08-27-11, 08:57
Can I order a hammer forged barrel from Noveske without ordering one of their N4 uppers to get it?

that's a negative

Check out centurion arms, they make a chf barrel with similar features to the noveske, and they have a good reputation.

I would look at either the MUR, or larue stealth upper receiver.

Since you have your lower check out the parts kits that grant at G&R tactical sells, you can get it without the fire control group and trigger guard since you are planning for a gieselle and building on a ffl lower.

I would also recommend against the ubr for a 14.5 or 16 standard or lightweight barrel, it will be a little ass heavy.

Eta just saw that you are looking at the badass, if that is the case you can get a colt small lower parts kit from brownells which is the lpk minus the fire control group and safety selector.

colt small parts (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26508/avs|Manufacturer_1=COLT/Product/AR_15_RIFLE_ACCESSORIES_KIT)

SA80Dan
09-01-11, 08:35
My carbine isn't what I thought, and with the new shooting techniques, plus my very active entrance back into 3-gun, I'm wanting to really build a new weapon system for match, but also practicality in today's unsure world.

Oh yeah, trying not to make this thing into a boat anchor.

I have the same sort of philosophy. While my rifle isn't going to be the same as yours, it might give you some ideas:

Lower - PSA lower....cheap and good quality.

Upper - PSA upper...cheap and good quality. I do like the MUR though, it looks very good; if I had extra money to burn I'd choose one of them.

Trigger - Geissele S2S (great trigger but for competition oriented, I'd probably recommend an SSA-E in hindsight for it being just that bit lighter and crisper). Totally personal preference - I just like 2 stage triggers. Most 3 gunners however prefer a good single stage like a JP.

Barrel - Nordic Components Lilja Barrel 16.5" midlength with Wylde chamber. Outstanding, high quality barrel that is turned down to an M4 profile under the handguards. One of the lightest SS barrels.

Length - as per above. I personally have zero interest in 14.5" barrels - way too much of a pain in the ass pinning brakes etc. If you may ever be experimenting with comps etc you really don't want to do that. Everything to lose and nothing to gain with a 14.5"....considering most top 3 gunners go with 18" or 20" barrels, maneuverability certainly isn't a burning issue.

Speaking of comps, I chose a battlecomp for this one. While it is still loud and obnoxious vs a flash hider, it is much less so than most brakes and retains at least some flash hiding capability. Compromise comp for a compromise rifle - I do like it, although I think they are a bit overpriced now there's some direct competition out there from Spikes and Griffin.

Like you I also wanted to keep it fairly light - including the scope and mount, this weighs right at 8lb.

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/zz143/Kwanger/P1030893.jpg

Mauser KAR98K
09-05-11, 13:59
I have the same sort of philosophy. While my rifle isn't going to be the same as yours, it might give you some ideas:

Lower - PSA lower....cheap and good quality.

Upper - PSA upper...cheap and good quality. I do like the MUR though, it looks very good; if I had extra money to burn I'd choose one of them.

Trigger - Geissele S2S (great trigger but for competition oriented, I'd probably recommend an SSA-E in hindsight for it being just that bit lighter and crisper). Totally personal preference - I just like 2 stage triggers. Most 3 gunners however prefer a good single stage like a JP.

Barrel - Nordic Components Lilja Barrel 16.5" midlength with Wylde chamber. Outstanding, high quality barrel that is turned down to an M4 profile under the handguards. One of the lightest SS barrels.

Length - as per above. I personally have zero interest in 14.5" barrels - way too much of a pain in the ass pinning brakes etc. If you may ever be experimenting with comps etc you really don't want to do that. Everything to lose and nothing to gain with a 14.5"....considering most top 3 gunners go with 18" or 20" barrels, maneuverability certainly isn't a burning issue.

Speaking of comps, I chose a battlecomp for this one. While it is still loud and obnoxious vs a flash hider, it is much less so than most brakes and retains at least some flash hiding capability. Compromise comp for a compromise rifle - I do like it, although I think they are a bit overpriced now there's some direct competition out there from Spikes and Griffin.

Like you I also wanted to keep it fairly light - including the scope and mount, this weighs right at 8lb.

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/zz143/Kwanger/P1030893.jpg

Nice rig, and full of ideas.

I just got my Noveske flared lower in the other day, and I just ordered a UBR at a good deal. If I don't like it, it wasn't staked so it is easy to take off and resale.

I really want to get SSA-E or even the two stage. I'm enjoying 3-gun, but I don't want the weapon to be solely geared to it. What is the benefit of a two-stage in your opinion. I read articles, but nothing counts for true experience.

I am aim for this weapon system to be about the same weight.

Roger that on the barrel length, and uppers are cheap to make. I'm considering a DD unless Noveske really does put the CHF up for grabs.

Side note: is it kosher to take off the LPK from one weapon and place it on another?

SA80Dan
09-05-11, 18:37
I really want to get SSA-E or even the two stage. I'm enjoying 3-gun, but I don't want the weapon to be solely geared to it. What is the benefit of a two-stage in your opinion. I read articles, but nothing counts for true experience.


The SSA-E is a 2 stage - its just a bit lighter and crisper than the respective SSA or now "budget" S2S.

The benefit of a good 2 stage trigger, IMO, is that it gives you a light precise trigger break while still maintaining a good "battlefield" degree of safety - they were originally designed for exactly that purpose and are still in popular worldwide military use (just not in the stock M4/M16). Taking an SSA-E for example, it has a first stage takeup of about 2lb, then the second stage break at 1.5lb. While you could set a single stage for a 1.5lb break, it would quite literally be a hair trigger and would be a liability in mainstream use outside of a bench range environment. With the SSA-E, you have to move the trigger though the first 2lb (and thus disengage the inherently designed safety) before you get to the "hair". The SSA is more like 2.5lb first stage and then a 2lb break and is slightly less "crisp" (but vs a stock trigger will still feel like a razor sharp break).

Obviously, the big thing with 2 stage triggers is accuracy enhancement at medium/long ranges. The biggest disadvantage is that many will say that they are not so fast for very quick follow up shots, and it is easier to "bobble" a 2 stage. I think there is some truth in that, but to me personally advantages of less rifle disturbance shooting small targets at longer ranges outweighs shaving off one tenth of a second off a 6 sting series of shots fired at 5 yards.

jwfuhrman
09-05-11, 20:53
My 3gun Rifle is also my "Recce".

BCM SS410 16in Middy 1/8 upper
Troy 15in TRX
BCM BCG
Delaware Machinery Lower (made here in Indiana)
MagPul PRS
Surefire MB556K
ADM Recon mount
Burris XTR 1-4
Geissele SD3G

This gun has been running extremely, extremely well for me. Very smooth shooting, very fast, and very accurate. Buddy of mine who won the AM Division of the Brownells/ARFCOM Pro/AM is shooting something VERY similar to what I am, but with just a BCM 16in BFH middy barrel and a SJC Titan comp. If I did it all again, I would most likely just run a BCM 16in BFH middy barrel, save some more weight and for 3gun, the accuracy is more than good enough.

Mauser KAR98K
09-06-11, 10:46
My 3gun Rifle is also my "Recce".

BCM SS410 16in Middy 1/8 upper
Troy 15in TRX
BCM BCG
Delaware Machinery Lower (made here in Indiana)
MagPul PRS
Surefire MB556K
ADM Recon mount
Burris XTR 1-4
Geissele SD3G

This gun has been running extremely, extremely well for me. Very smooth shooting, very fast, and very accurate. Buddy of mine who won the AM Division of the Brownells/ARFCOM Pro/AM is shooting something VERY similar to what I am, but with just a BCM 16in BFH middy barrel and a SJC Titan comp. If I did it all again, I would most likely just run a BCM 16in BFH middy barrel, save some more weight and for 3gun, the accuracy is more than good enough.

Noticing you have 15" rail to yoiur 16" barrel. What lenght (beyond 9") rail system should I consider?

jwfuhrman
09-06-11, 13:01
Minimum 12in. There are numerous options in 12in length. Daniel Defense MRF, PRi, Firebird, the list goes on. I have a very aggressive hold on my rifle and the 15in is the perfect length for my shooting style.

SA80Dan
09-07-11, 14:18
The rail on mine is an 11"; I grip it right at the end. Think if I was to do it again, I'd probably go 13".

Mauser KAR98K
09-15-11, 20:03
Just completed my lower build with the new Noveske flared lower. Sweet, and the UBR has a very solid check weld that beats my old CAR stock.

The DD LPK went smooth as I could get it it. The bolt catch/release was a pain and I scuffed the paint some getting it in. I also lost one of the detente pins for the take pins. But my other lower provided me with one.

Funny thing about that. I put my hand on the castle nut and I didn't have to breath and it came loose. They guy who built it didn't stake the thing. Now I'm worried what else he didn't do. At least the bolt is staked properly.

Anyone know what type of quick detach sling swivel the UBR takes and where I can find one?

January...upper.

Shoulderthinggoesup
09-20-11, 13:49
am trying to build a rifle for the exact same purpose...

Here is my current build plan:

Lower:

Mega billet lower G&R tactical lpk Geissiel sd-e
A5 vltor imod or emod
magpul moe grip

Upper: Mega forged a4 upper
Vtac trx ff rail
Noveske n4 chf 16 inch, shaved fsb gb
Battlecomp
spikes NiB bcg

Sights: Magpul mbus Burris mtac 1-4 on larue mount

This should give me a lightweight (6.7 lbs without scope, about 8 with), accurate (1.3 moa according to molon's tests with the n4, which is plenty accurate for serious use and 3 gun), and very sturdy/reliable (NiB bcg, cl bfh barrel). It should shoot like a .22 lr with the middy+a5+bc.

The 1-4x mtac is apparently a almost as fast as an aimpoint in cbq but will allow me to reach out to 400 yards.

This is my answer to the all round cbq/3gun/shtf. when I get it finished I wil do a range report/write up.

If you want a n4 16 middy barrel check gunbroker or try calling grant at g&r tactical. Thats where I got mine.



Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Jim D
09-23-11, 08:59
I'm waiting to hear the final specs on the Northern Red carbine, but I think it's going to be very close to what you're building.

What I know right now:

Troy 15" tube
Troy folding front/rear sights
SF muzzle device (not sure if it's a brake or FH)
Geissele Super 3-Gun trigger
Vltor stock
Krieger 1:7 16" barrel hand fit/ lapped by a gunsmith from the "Ft Bragg area" ;)
Magpul MIAD grip (IIRC)
BCM charging handle
VTAC sling (or the London Bridge Trading version, not sure this has been finalized)


I got to check out a few of the prototypes out at the Northern Red class, and they were sweet! I'm in the process of getting that 15" tube on my gun, and saving up for that trigger.

I already have that grip, stock, and sling, and by barrel is shooting well right now. If I was in the market though, I'd be all over this carbine.

It sounds pretty close to what you're looking for though. I'll post the final specs/price as soon as I hear back on it (next week or so).

Mauser KAR98K
10-08-11, 19:00
Final got some trigger time with the new Noveske lower, DD LPK and UBR stock. Running some reloaded 55 gr and 62 gr loads with it.

Analysis: hardly any recoil. The weapon is a little heavier from the previous lower, but I'm seeing the difference as a plus. Love the instant and consistent cheek weld, and the flared lower is doing its job.

Next: upper.:rolleyes: