Sighting in a M1 Garand

[SHARP1983]

I recently picked up a Springfield M1 Garand in 30-06. Originally took it to the range and tried to sight it in. I shot it both at 25yds and 50yds with a 4"-6" group. Ended up having the barrel re-crowned by a local smith and took it back out, not to sight it in, just to shoot for accuracy regardless of where it was at on paper. At 50yds it was shooting cloverleafs w/ Greek surplus. NOW, my question is, is there a way I can zero the irons at either 25yds or 50yds and still hit my targets beyond 100yds by using the adjustments. If so, how can I do it and be able to set my sight marks back correctly so I can actually use the 2 mark for 200yds and so on. I've looked online any about all I can find is the 200m battle zero. I don't feel confident enough in my shooting ability, especially shooting for accuracy, to be able to zero at 200m. Basically I'd like to find a 25yd or 50yd zero. Any idea's?

[ralph]

You'll probably have to sight in at 100yds..Reason being, the click values on the sights are 1" @100yds, so, moving the elevation or windage knob will move the POI 1", The Garand is'nt like a AR where you sight in at 50yds and you're good out to 200,It was ment to be sighted in at 100yds, With that in mind,set th rifle up on a benchrest, set your target up at 100yds, Turn the elevation knob all the way down, and then bring it up about 8 clicks, that should get you on paper, adujst from there.Remembering the click values..1"@100yds,If you're 4" low @100yds, bring the sight up 4 clicks,and so on, once you're on at 100, If I remember correctly, 2 clicks up will put you on,or very close at 200, 3clicks up from there should put you close at 300. I would'nt worry too much about having the numbers match up, because with all the surplus ammo out there, it's impossible to say if it'll shoot to match the numbers,Also if you reload, and use heavier bullets you'll be off as the sights were set up for 150gr bullets. mine for example, is 2clicks up from the 300yd mark to get zero at 300, even though I put the effort to try to get the numbers to line up, you're better off just remembering how many clicks up from bottom, and then how many up to get to 200,300 etc, The numbers on the elevation drum may or may not match up.

However, if you want to try to get the numbers on the elevation drum to line up, here's what to do..first you'll have to sight the rifle in at 100yds,..Let's say it takes 10 clicks from the bottom to sight in..Now turn the elevation drum down until it is bottomed out and stops. loosen the large screw on the elevation drum, making sure you hold the drum itself to prevent it from turning, once loose, turn the drum around(downward) until the 100yd mark comes up. turn 10 clicks past that. tighten screw(again holding drum) turn drum back up 10 clicks, it should stop on the 100 yd mark. If you remember the click values,(windage and elevation) it'll be easier to shoot longer ranges, 1 click @100 yds= 1" 2" at 200, 3" at 300, and so on.

[NWPilgrim]

Ralph is right on. It is good to get in the practice of starting your elevation at the bottom and counting clicks to get to 100 yds. Then use the number of clicks that Ralph mentions to get on for the longer ranges.

For hunting with .30-06 my Dad always had us sight in 2" high at 100 to be on for 200 yds. Which is the same as what Ralph mentions, two clicks up from the 100 yds setting would be 2" high at 100, and should be close to on for 200 yds.

I just did a CMP match last month and that is exactly what we did. When we moved back to 300 and went up 3 clicks (from 200 yd sught in) we were close and with two sighting rounds were able to get pretty much on. Each rifle will be a little different, and each rifleman will line up differently than another. So you may end up with 6, 7 or even 10 clicks for your 100 yd setting. But after that the +2 for 200, +3 more for 300, +10 more for 600 yds should be pretty close.

I haven't tried it, but if 2" high at 100 yds puts you on for 200 yds, you would expect that 1" high at 50 yds would do nearly the same.

BTW, what did the barrel look like before you had it crowned? Was it just cleaning rod wear at the muzzle? How was the bore? And did you just have the crown cleaned up or did you have it cut back 1/4" or so? I have a Garand with bad muzzle wear and was thinking off getting it re-crowned. How much was it?

Enjoy that Garand! What an exquisite piece of machinery and piece of history. And a lot of fun to shoot!