Help with 1911 Malfunctions!!

[jtsikes0204]

I have a Caspian Custom commander, I have been having some issues with it. Its sometimes failing to return to battery. Thinking I may need a new recoil spring.
It also have had a few FTE's. Its not stove piping, but the cartridge is flipping around 180 degrees and being stuck.

what would you suggest as an option to replace or tune?

[luvmy40]

I am not a professional gun smith!!!

What's the history of the pistol? Round count and previous reliability?

Have you done a complete tear down and cleaned lubed and inspected the internals.
Changing the recoil spring would be the easiest/cheapest place to start.

[Lincoln7]

Check your extractor tension. This single part will affect what a 1911 does or doesn't do dramatically. You can find instructions on how to check but I like my extractors to not let go of an empty casing no matter how hard you shake the slide and to let go of a 230 live round (doesn't actually have to be live, can be inert) with a few hard shakes.

The recoil spring is the next place to check. If running a 5" government model go with a 16# (assuming you are running normal pressure ammunition).

[maximus83]

+1 on Lincoln7's suggestion. With 1911's, a high % of feeding and extraction issues are caused by the mags or the extractor. Those are almost always the 2 best places to start checking for issues. In this case, I agree that the extractor tension is the thing to check. However, if you don't know what you're checking FOR, you might need an experienced 1911 gunsmith to tension the extractor for you. This is NOT a job for the inexperienced. And while a new, drop-in extractor from a quality parts maker can often work, it is not likely to work optimally. The extractor tension is one of the most important reliability factors on your entire pistol.

If you decide (against my suggestion to get a gunsmith) to tune the extractor yourself, here's a tutorial from Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat.

http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm

[Lincoln7]

What type of magazines are you running? Condition (or wear) of mag springs?

[Guns-up.50]

Check your extractor tension. This single part will affect what a 1911 does or doesn't do dramatically. You can find instructions on how to check but I like my extractors to not let go of an empty casing no matter how hard you shake the slide and to let go of a 230 live round (doesn't actually have to be live, can be inert) with a few hard shakes.

The recoil spring is the next place to check. If running a 5" government model go with a 16# (assuming you are running normal pressure ammunition).

+1 on the extractor tension (*wilson bullet proof if your are looking*), But i changed to an 18lb in my colt govt, the 230 hard ball was beating the shit out of my gun. If i am correct i think most use a 16lb to improve reliabillity, but i havent had any problems with mine.

[shootist~]

Not going into battery could also be a"fat bullet jam" - ammo related if using improperly sized reloads or cast/plated bullets that are not sized correctly for your barrel. A tight chamber or one in need of more break-in is similar. The FTEs sounds like an ejector issue.

I have a set of Weigand Extractor Tension Gauges that I've used a few times. They are helpful if you don't have a feel for setting the tension.

I've gone through a few extractors and ejectors- starting with new parts from a quality manufacturer adds confidence. I suggest you research the Brion Enos site to find the latest & greatest parts. Ditto if you decide to send it off for a reliability package - which might be the best option.

I run a Wolf 16# spring in my Wilson carry gun and keep a fresh 15# spring an old beat-up but reliable Springfield 3-G pistol. The only things original in the Springer are the frame and slide.

[SGB]

Providing you're using factory ammo I'd look to your extractor tension first.