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After doing a search and some reading it seems like a lot of people like the new weapon shield lube. Up until now I have been using BF CLP, and I guess it works but what do I know. Since my rifle sits unused for long times (non-military/LE) I want a lube and cleaner that will be the best for me.
Anyways, I am wondering what website is the best for ordering weaponshield. Also, should I use break cleaner or something to clean my weapon before applying a new type of lube?
After doing a search and some reading it seems like a lot of people like the new weapon shield lube. Up until now I have been using BF CLP, and I guess it works but what do I know. Since my rifle sits unused for long times (non-military/LE) I want a lube and cleaner that will be the best for me.
Anyways, I am wondering what website is the best for ordering weaponshield. Also, should I use break cleaner or something to clean my weapon before applying a new type of lube?
BF CLP is a better rust inhibitor.
Are you sure? I thought I read that weapon shield outperformed BF CLP.
http://www.steelshieldtech.com/
Thanks for the link rhino. Can anyone else comment on the corrosion protection offered by weapon shield? One reason why I am looking at an alternative to BF CLP is that I read while in storage the BF CLP components can separate in the bottle, so you have to mix it up real good before using it. I read that weapon shield holds together better, is this true?
I'm not a good person to ask about corrosion (you should see some of my guns), even though I know how it works since I studied it in school all those years ago.
I'm also not a good person to ask about cleaning guns (you should see some of my guns).
I do know a little about lubrication and tribology. George Fennell knows his stuff.
I'm using Weapon Shield right now because I have samples George sent and it seems to work fine. I completed two carbine courses (one in August and one in October) and some other shooting without any cleaning. I fired a little under 1000 rounds in the two classes, and probably over 1000 total with other bits of firing, including the 90 rounds I fired on Mondya. I added some additional Weapon Shield before the second class, but otherwise the gun sits as it was until I'm ready to shoot again. Zero malfunctions (except when they were induced with orange dummy rounds during the last class), so I'm pleased with the lubricative properties of Weapon Shield so far.
I will say that I had similar performance with FP-10, both stuff that was years old and more recent vintage. I'll probably use what I have left of the FP-10 after I used the rest of my Weapon Shield samples, then I'll buy Weapon Shield until and unless I find something demonstratably better for lubing my ARs. I realize that for my needs, most any lube will do if I keep adding it as needed, but I know for sure that what I have been using works well.
After doing a search and some reading it seems like a lot of people like the new weapon shield lube. Up until now I have been using BF CLP, and I guess it works but what do I know. Since my rifle sits unused for long times (non-military/LE) I want a lube and cleaner that will be the best for me. Anyways, I am wondering what website is the best for ordering weaponshield. Also, should I use break cleaner or something to clean my weapon before applying a new type of lube?
I've been running the Weaponshield samples in a bunch of guns, and so far it's done well. Including burst/auto guns. I didn't remove or degrease any previous product, just applied over the top.
One more select fire test and I'll write up what I've done with it so far.
Blankwaffe
11-11-07, 18:54
Ive been using the Weapon Shield CLP since about july,and have been very pleased with the results Ive seen so far.Before that I was using FP-10 and Mil-comm TW-25B for my go to lubes,as well as in combination on handguns.Needless to say I used that combo for about seven years with no issues.
But I have since done away with the FP-10/TW-25B combo and have gone to using just the Weapon Shield.Reason being,it seems the Weapon Shield stays put much longer than the FP-10 did/does,and I see not need to use the TW-25B anymore to extend the service level of the weapons before relubing.I think that since the Weapon Shield uses a fully synthetic formula and a slightly higher viscisity it stays put without running off or evaporating during use or storage.It also takes the heat better without vaporing off during use.
The main feature I like so much about the Weapon Shield is that its very slick at the start and retains that feature under extended use.I ran a a little over 700 rounds through my AR with only a light film of the Weapon Shield in the action.No lube related issues and the weapon still had a visible film of lube on the parts.Clean up was just as simple,basically wiping the parts down with the Weapon Shield and some minor tooth brush work before relubing.The Weapon shield really seems to penetrate and wet the metal down,so I think thats why it seems to clean so well even though it seems to be somewhat of a higher vis and has no solvents.
As for the corrosion protection question....I did a redneck backyard corrosion test using an old K98K barrel and a couple G3 firing pins back in mid summer when we were seeing some 100F temps and high humidity with scattered t-storms.That said the drought kind made things slow so I used the garden hose a few times to wet the parts down good.
I also had the barrel in direct sunlight and it was too hot to touch during mid day.So I expected to see the oil to evaporate much more than what I did.Heck the Break Free would dry in three days in the direct sunlight.
The Weapon Shield beads water almost like a wax,where the Break Free would float/wash off.So that has got to be some added protection of the surfaces.
It took two weeks for me to see some light corrosion on the barrel using Weapon Shield.Personally I was impressed with my results because things usually start to corrode or mildew here in just a few days.
So I left the barrel outdoors for about a month total and all I got was some minor surface corrosion on the barrel,and it cleaned up with just a cloth and the Weapon Shield.
Regardless I personally think this was more of a metal finish test than that of a protectant test.Heck I would never leave my weapons exposed to the elements for more than a day or two without some kind of PM anyway.Relying on a chemical inhibitor or oil film to protect metal in an open environment for more than a few days is just asking for trouble anyway.But if a product does work thats great,but eventually the oil film and or inhibitor package will give to the elements....not to mention something/spot being missed when applying the oil/protectant.
I also CCW daily and I sweat like a pig.No corrosion on the W.German made 226 either.So I say the Weapon Shield protects just about as well as anything else thats available,not to metion the lube abilities it offers....and the cleaning function it serves without stinking the house up or causing my skin to peel like Ive seen with other CLP's like Break Free.
So my overall test/use results showed me that Im more than covered for just about anything that could happen to my weapons.
Yeah I would highly recommend the Weapon Shield CLP to anyone who asked.IMHO the Weapon Shield is about the best CLP on the market.Especially for the money.
Caused me to drop my all time favorites,FP-10 and TW-25B,which I thought would never happen.
HTH
a green river knife that had been used to cut onions got forgotten out by the barbeque and smoker for the months of june and july, it was rusted pretty bad
but not pitted too deep. i tried to bring it back by washing it with dish detergent and hot water with an old toothbrush. it air dryed quick and while it was still hot i started brushing the weaponshield on it.
i watched the weaponshield react with the oxides and lift the rust right off the bat.
wipe down and reapply, i saw a visible chemical reaction starting to turn the reddish oxides to black oxides.
wipe again, not much rust coming off the blade, black stains on blade are hard and slick. interesting chemical reaction, i am thinking that the electrochemical properties of the weaponshield are noticeable. Fe++ to Fe+++ perhaps?
Fe++++ even? or might it be Fe-- to Fe---
all this is with a soft tissue and worn out old toothbrush.
so i think abrasives might be good to try and i get a bit of 800grit emery paper
and touch up the darkest spots
that lightest touch of abrasive seemed to let the weaponshield in to react with the oxides. that blade got bright real quick. i got it razor sharp again and cut some more onions with it. is this non-toxic?
the blade did stain again but not quickly and not red rust, black smooth stains only. the steel feels different too. like it is waxed,
I don't know how well it lubricates (I prefer FP10 for lubing where a liquid is needed), but I know for a fact that WS does not prevent rust near as well as CLP. I put some nails under salt water spray conditions and the CLP nail did a world better.
One reason why I am looking at an alternative to BF CLP is that I read while in storage the BF CLP components can separate in the bottle, so you have to mix it up real good before using it.
That was true of the older Break-Free CLP. The current formulation (anything made in the last few years, and maybe even older than that) does not separate or have particles that settle out.
Joe Mamma
when all my FP10 is gone I'm switching to Mobile 1 for lube . more lube,less money less hype .
Hmm, varied responses. Thanks for all the replies. I still think I want to order some eventually, maybe I will get around to it this week.
The one thing that freaks me out about Weaponshield is that they refer you to OLYMPIC ARMS site if you want to order online. :eek:
toddackerman
12-06-07, 15:00
BF CLP is a better rust inhibitor.
Not after the testing we've seen here.
toddackerman
12-06-07, 15:04
I don't know how well it lubricates (I prefer FP10 for lubing where a liquid is needed), but I know for a fact that WS does not prevent rust near as well as CLP. I put some nails under salt water spray conditions and the CLP nail did a world better.
We've seen all these backyard tests before, but as it has been observed with "Real Gun Parts"...nails aren't tool steel like gun parts, and the "Nails Test" is not relevant. Do a search, and you'll find why I say this.
Here's what IS relevant...where do you live, how much do you shoot, what is your cleaning regimen, and what is the rifle used for?
Examples:
1. I live in Colorado. Nothing rusts here, so "preserving" is not a big issue for me. When I lived in Portland, OR it was.
2. I shoot 200 rounds in a session on a weekly basis, and thoroughly clean after each session. Anything would stand up to that as a "Friction Lube", but I like my stuff to last as long as possible, so I use a 2 step lube process. I use Mad Dog XF-7 as a base lube on the BCG, Bolt, and raceways, as well as inside the receiver lugs, and on the inside receiver portion that the BCG sits in. I then use "LaRue Machine Gunners Lube" as a top coat. This is the "Slickest" formula I have found versus Militec, CLP, FP-10 , Slip 2000, and numerous others. Neither the XF-7 or the Machine Gunners Lube burns off. I have also stretched the shooting sessions to 500 rounds, of very "Active Fire", and relubing the bolt through the gas port with Machine Gunners lube at 250 rounds, and again, neither the XF-7, or Machine Gunners lube burns off, and it stays wet. Carbon wipes away without ANY scrubbing with solvents. Also, the XF-7 will not boil off, and is impervious to Salt Water Spray corrosion. Any CLP will burn off, and rust in a Marine environment! You can see the specs here: http://www.mdtactical.com/mdlabs/XF7.htm
3. If you're just plinking, and can stand an occasional failure to feed because your lube has gone south, that's your choice. Those who have their carbines at the ready 24/ 7 for SD (like I do) do not have this luxury. It has to run 100% of the time. Period. So, I prefer the best lube I can find.
4. As far as cleaning goes...all of the above "Suck" compared to a quality bore solvent "cleaner". If you don't believe me, clean your rifle with any of the above, and then rescrub/ swab with a quality cleaner. You will be amazed at what the CLP's of the world leave behind. I use Shooters Choice on my bench. If you use my lube suggestions, carbon will again...wipe off.
All of this being said, IF I had to use one product for a "Field Cleaning Kit", it would probably be Slip 2000, or Weapon Shield. Sometimes you have to choose the lesser of evils. My absolute last choice would be Militec.
Please excuse me for "Ranting" about this topic, but I see far too many folks posting on this without relevant, or extensive research being performed on their own. You should do the testing and research, and not take anyones word (including mine) IF your rifle is for serious SD, or if you believe that the "S will HTF", and you may have to go for days/ or weeks with several hundreds of rounds being fired in between cleanings, in whatever environment you will be in.
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