View Full Version : DIY: Custom KAC rail panels
Hi ladies, I figured I would do the whole "give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish you feed him for life" thing since I'm making some panels currently for a fellow member and friend. I have received quite a number of inquires over the last couple years regarding how to do these panels, and have done sets for a few other pals so I figured it was time to document how to do these and make it avail. for the M4C audience.
Normally I don't just post a video and a few pics without including significant text and such, however the video illustrates the process far better than I can in text so that is why this post is relatively brief in nature. With that said, I'm more than happy to answer all questions that may arise from fellow members while they attempt to do these on their own in the future.
Anyhow, if you want some outstanding rail covers and have the motivation to do them yourself, than simply use the DIY video below as a reference and get busy:)
DIY: custom KAC rail panels (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8EdCWQif68)
This involves using gloves, safety glasses, a Dremel and belt sander attachment, a small piece of sandpaper, and finally a woodburning tool or similar stippling device.
http://i54.tinypic.com/2mcqol.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/inwz01.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/2gttfly.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/301ndi8.jpg
http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac81/trident1982/IMG_4616-1.jpg
Nice DIY tutorial! Thanks for posting!
:eek: Oh, I see what you did there. :-)
Very nice. Simple and functional.
Now where did I put all my extra rail panels?
Same way I did my Glock except i used a belt sander followed by the dremil and light sanding paper.
Tools needed for the job....
http://i52.tinypic.com/2w59hyp.jpg
Really great kit for stippling and very affordable for just about everyone...Weller woodburning kit @ Sears for $17.99 (http://www.sears.com/weller-25-watt-short-barrel-woodburning-kit/p-00954079000P)
http://i55.tinypic.com/34pffuv.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/s13z1y.jpg
If you don't dig on the one little dimple at a time method due to tedium or arthritis, nab you one of these copper rivets:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21kVRGwHrVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
They are soft copper, so will screw right into a standard soldering iron without having to mess with a die. Grab the shank with pliers and run it in.
Then cut the head radially with tin snips like a flower and give each 'petal' a little twist with needle nose pliers so it kinda looks like a pinwheel when done.
The copper combined with thinness of the rivet head works some good heat that can be 'chased' across the rail cover more easily as you work, and you'll be doing upwards of 8-10 marks at a time. Just give a little twist every few to get a more random pattern.
Once the ribs are removed, it takes about 8 minutes to do a whole large panel.
*Pic does absolutely no justice to the finished item.
These things end up stupid rough and grippy, to the point that you can afford to knock things down a bit with 200 grit sandpaper.
Interesting...got any finished work with that pattern on it?
It is very tedious and time consuming for sure doing it one "dimple" at a time.
memberonly
10-04-11, 21:10
Similar to GTifosi's approach, this is a tip I made. The finishing product might not look as refined as Trident's, but it takes a lot less time to stipple :)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/797/tipry.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/tipry.jpg/)
leibermuster
10-04-11, 21:20
Well done Sir.
I plan on doing that this weak or the next, thank you for the YouTube video as well.
Did some of my KAC panels and some Magpul Panels last year. My nephew loved them, so he had to do his. Don't know why, but stippling is very fun, love doing it.
ARKAR
You're not supposed to inhale the vapors y'know :)
Well done Sir.
I plan on doing that this weak or the next, thank you for the YouTube video as well.
My pleasure, I'd like to see your results if you have the time to post them up in the future.
Member, as usual thanks for the good visual...that would definitely make the process go much faster.
Stippling in unbelievably addictive, the fumes give you a buzz similar to eating paint chips:D
I prefer "light a man a fire and he'll be warm for a night, set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life." To each their own....
Very nice tutorial, I will add that if one has access to a belt sander, the shaving of the panels can be accomplished much faster, and if you're planning on doing several panels, it's worth it to find someone with a belt sander or see if there's some place you can use one for 5 minutes. A tabletop works best, a portable is better for belt sander races.
That's probably great advice Johnny, however I just wanted to add one caveat with a cpl. of pics as a warning to potentially help others avoid making a mistake I made when I first started doing these.
One of the huge advantages I've found to doing these custom panels is that when done properly, there is no thinner contoured rail panel on the market today. With that said, DON'T GO TO THIN or aggressive with the De-ribbing and re-contouring as you will melt all the way through the panel when stippling, and thereby waste a $10-$20 panel. That is why I always go slow with the variable dremel and belt sander attachment so that I can continually check the depth of my work.
Note in the pics where this occurs(not in the middle, not on the extreme edges but in between those two regions)...
Melted holes:
http://i55.tinypic.com/3462fky.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/261lzz7.jpg
Example depicting too thin of a contour:
http://i55.tinypic.com/2e4ccxz.jpg
ETA: GTifosi...I just now noticed you had edited in the pic per my request, thanks for adding that as a reference :)
No problem. I just wish it were clearer, but I guess I'm just cursed to never take a good picture ever. Hopfully it gives an idea anyway.
That which memberonly has going on is a good solution too.
In regard to removing the ribs, I've found that a standard bench grinder works very well if you're attentive and want them off in a hurry, or, should you be of the sort who doesn't trust themselves with power tools, a 1/2" wood chisel will peel them things right off in a fairly quick fashion without cutting any deeper than the actual ribs are tall, but holding the cover in place to work it can be a bit of a challenge.
If you're really of the sort that shouldn't be trusted to hold anything sharper than a soft boiled egg a sanding block with 100 grit on it would be about the last hope. And then only under supervision.
Or you can just buy Tango Down SCAR panels. :D
Looks good though Trident.
Looking good Trident - I too have the Weller...nice that it comes with its own little stand/a variety of tips.
Similar to GTifosi's approach, this is a tip I made. The finishing product might not look as refined as Trident's, but it takes a lot less time to stipple :)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/797/tipry.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/tipry.jpg/)
Could have used that idea a week ago! Well done sir.
hotrodder636
10-05-11, 10:05
Wow, that's pretty neat! I thought it was "lizardskin" before I watched the video. "Liazardskin", if I remember the name correctly is a ceramic based matrix used in insulating in car restoration...hmmmm maybe it would make a decent textured rail cover....
Again, nicely done!
Lost River
10-08-11, 11:17
Trident,
Thanks for posting that. The video was quite educational. I am sure there are plenty of people here who learn better from watching rather than reading and that was a perfect example for them.
The finished product looks great.
I happen to have a couple of Knight's rails and rail cover sets sitting under one of my benches. I think later this week one of the rail cover sets will see the grinder and stippler.
Nicely done and thanks again for contributing.
jonconsiglio
10-08-11, 12:17
I've been stippling my rail KAC rail covers for a long time and it makes a considerable difference. I've just recently moved away from my URX II rails and KAC rail covers and have been using ladder covers since I'm using RIS II's on my mk18 and 14.5" and on my SCARs… I've found I don't like the rail covers on these rifles on the others I have, but really like them on thinner profile rails like the URX II and the Lite rail.
I tried it on XTM panels as well a while back, but I've never been able to get them to stay on for long, especially when out for a while. I always end up trying to find one of them or having to snap it back together.
The other place I've found stippling to work well is on the A2 grip after Dremeling off the nub. It doesn't make much difference when shooting, but when reloading or any other time when the support hand is off of the rifle, I've found a stippled front or more pronounced hump on the rear like the Tango Down BG-17 makes quite a difference in weapon control.
I haven't done it to my stubby vert grips yet and not sure I will, but have seen a few guys here that have and it looks useful.
I no longer use AFG's, but when I did stippling them made a huge difference and gave me a lot more control. Here's the KAC panels as well with both colors of FDE they released and black.
One thing I've found when stippling the panels is a tight, fine pattern works best and instead of poking, working the tip of the burner around in almost a figure 8 pattern works great. I also stop after a small section and sharpen the tip of the burner.
The stippling starts to wear down a bit after use, so touching it up every now and then isn't a bad idea.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/Forums/IMG_1130-Edit.jpg
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/Forums/IMG_1233.jpg
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Trident,
Thanks for posting that. The video was quite educational. I am sure there are plenty of people here who learn better from watching rather than reading and that was a perfect example for them.
The finished product looks great.
I happen to have a couple of Knight's rails and rail cover sets sitting under one of my benches. I think later this week one of the rail cover sets will see the grinder and stippler.
Nicely done and thanks again for contributing.
It's honestly my pleasure especially since you have contributed so nicely before in another thread of mine as well as others I enjoy to read. The pics make me a bit jealous but oh well:p
I would love to see some finished product if you get the chance as it will serve as inspiration for others to give this a shot. I think these panels are super good looking, however the advantages they bring to the table are why they are worth the trouble of doing imho. The actual grip-ability combined with how low of a profile they are is what sold me on doing them. It's also really nice to create something for yourself instead of always having to pay for it like I do the majority of the time when outfitting the kit on my rifles.
My SPR never has the need for various rail attachments and thereby I wanted to protect the entire length of the rail from hard use, thus I decided to run the full length of them with panels. When I tried to put back to back KAC panels on it, it looked incredibly funky so I used a combination of XTM's and KAC panels to achieve a really nice full length cover for both sides. This requires a good deal of practice prior to attempting as you actually fuse the xtms to the kac panel as depicted below. I couldn't be happier w/ the end result and found it was well worth the trouble since this is a more permanent solution.
http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac81/trident1982/DSC00987-1.jpg
http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac81/trident1982/DSC00986-1-1.jpg
My Colt carbine with stippled grip and KAC rail covers:
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/ARKAR_photo/IMG_2378.jpg?t=
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/ARKAR_photo/IMG_2377.jpg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/ARKAR_photo/IMG_2376.jpg
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