View Full Version : AR parts that are the most likely to need to be replaced
I am looking to stock up on some replacement parts for my AR's. I want to focus on those that are most likely to fail first, but not positive as to what I should make a priority.
Based on my somewhat lengthy experience, I would assume bolts and extractor springs. But others might suggest something else based on their wider scope of knowledge.
Might I ask for some assistance here making a prioritized list? Again, I am referring primarily to internal, functioning parts. Feel free to include a brand name if you think it is the best out there.
Thank-you.
Jack_Stroker
11-15-07, 15:12
Personally I'd keep an entire bolt carrier group on hand as they aren't that expensive.
toddackerman
11-15-07, 19:06
I am looking to stock up on some replacement parts for my AR's. I want to focus on those that are most likely to fail first, but not positive as to what I should make a priority.
Based on my somewhat lengthy experience, I would assume bolts and extractor springs. But others might suggest something else based on their wider scope of knowledge.
Might I ask for some assistance here making a prioritized list? Again, I am referring primarily to internal, functioning parts. Feel free to include a brand name if you think it is the best out there.
Thank-you.
IMO...a complete BCG with a properly staked Gas Key, with an MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected) tested bolt, extra extractors, "Black" extractor buffers, and extractor buffer springs, a couple of spare Ejector Springs, a spare charging handle, spare recoil buffer spring, and last but not least, the most fragile of the AR platform, several high quality mags that you have function tested. I recommend the D&H USGI Spec. mags, with the Magpul enhanced follower, and Magpul Ranger Plates, although the Ranger Plates are not a "Must". Any coating will due for functionality purposes, but I like the Black Teflon coat.
You can get all of this from Grant at www.gandrtactical.com Everything he carries is "Brand Name" and proven.
Other than that, you should be GTG IMHO.
Tack
not a holistic list, just things that haven't been mentioned yet
firing pins - (I stupidly bought a TiN plated one, the tip of which chipped in short order, resulting in pierced primers and a good bit of gas in the face.) I use normal pins now, but carry spares.
firing pin retaining pin - before i learned to reinsert them correctly after cleaning, i jammed them in, spreading the tips which made it almost impossible to reinsert. i still carry spares, mostly to assist others at the range.
fire control group - ever since my jewell trigger went down on my first day at camp perry, i carry a couple extra FCGs (a frank white match trigger and a couple standard AR triggers) and all the springs etc
i've broken stocks before, but no real way i know of to carry a spare. i figure my day's done if that happens.
haven't "broken" a grip yet, but i've had them come loose. i carry a spare, and screw and allen wrench to fit.
i haven't broken a sling attachment point yet, because i still use a 3-point sling for most of my ARs. when i get around to switching to the single-point sling, i'll probably carry a spare sling of the type that wrap around the forearm and stock with velcro or the little nylon straps.
i have broken the buckles on slings before though. now that i think about it, i should probably toss a spare in my bag. hmm...
That is exactly what I was looking for, and I thank-you for taking the time. Seems like everything is covered that I've heard before over the years. I tried a search to find a list or lists of such parts, but saw nothing. I suppose I find it helpful to have all the likely "suspects" identified in one spot so I can have all possible back-up parts handy.
Thank's again.
Man... there's a lot of stuff I have no back ups to.
I mean... if the world came to an end and UPS wasn't delivering... I'd be hurting if I broke stuff. I think I'll use Christmas as an excuse to bulk up the spare parts dept. :p
I mean... if the world came to an end and UPS wasn't delivering... I'd be hurting if I broke stuff.
Or if you needed one of those items to continue your day shooting. :rolleyes:
Hope that wasn't your old trademark sarcasm. :)
toddackerman
11-16-07, 08:55
That is exactly what I was looking for, and I thank-you for taking the time. Seems like everything is covered that I've heard before over the years. I tried a search to find a list or lists of such parts, but saw nothing. I suppose I find it helpful to have all the likely "suspects" identified in one spot so I can have all possible back-up parts handy.
Thank's again.
I wanted to add something....
Along with what I posted above, I think that a quality lower parts kit is a good idea as well if you want to spend another $50-$60. This with the complete BCG, and extra BCG components, and charging handle will give you pretty much everything you would ever need. I don't worry about stocks, grips, forends (the bigger parts) etc.
Or if you needed one of those items to continue your day shooting. :rolleyes:
Hope that wasn't your old trademark sarcasm. :)
No. I rarely take just one AR to class or out shooting. I'm talking about a broken bolt netting me one less AR since I don't keep a spare handy.
No. I rarely take just one AR to class or out shooting. I'm talking about a broken bolt netting me one less AR since I don't keep a spare handy.
Understood.
I have one replacement bolt and a firing pin for 3 AR's. Not exactly ideal by any means. Going to have to contact Grant soon, but may have to wait until after Christmas to get all that stuff. :(
Firing pins, firing pin retainer pins, extractor pins, and safety selector detents, takedown/pivot pin detents and their springs, a couple cam pins and bolt gas rings are good basic spare parts to keep on hand.
A spare extractor with extractor spring and buffer is a good idea too.
It amazes me still that folks lose these items with a frequency that boggles the mind.
I have seen far more AR/M16 small parts become lost by shooters than I have seen actually wear out!
The gas rings are the parts that wear out the most frequently.
If you want to be a bit more advanced, a complete spare, fitted and headspaced, bolt and a complete fire control group are great ideas.
If you want to be a bit more advanced, a complete spare, fitted and headspaced, bolt and a complete fire control group are great ideas.
You dont need to fit a bolt.
QuickStrike
11-17-07, 01:29
You dont need to fit a bolt.
One would still need to check headspace with gauges though right? :confused:
Which gauges do you recommend?
Failure2Stop
11-17-07, 04:50
As I was going through all the possible things that could break on my first AR, I quickly realised that the cost of each item increased my total cost to the point that I decided to just buy another rifle.;)
Honestly.
Now I just have the minimum: spare bolt, lube and a tool set.
toddackerman
11-17-07, 08:54
As I was going through all the possible things that could break on my first AR, I quickly realised that the cost of each item increased my total cost to the point that I decided to just buy another rifle.;)
Honestly.
Now I just have the minimum: spare bolt, lube and a tool set.
We must remember however, that IF the SHTF, the less bulk we have to carry out, the better. Our vehicles are going to fill up much sooner than we think, and a spare parts kit will take up much less room, and weight.
Failure2Stop
11-17-07, 09:40
We must remember however, that IF the SHTF, the less bulk we have to carry out, the better. Our vehicles are going to fill up much sooner than we think, and a spare parts kit will take up much less room, and weight.
Absolutely true. I was just pointing out my preference to have more guns than spare parts!:)
For work, I just carry an extra bolt. It becomes all too easy to carry every little part that could break, and devote space and weight to truly unnecessary stuff.
What I would carry for an extended survival situation versus defense of my closet are very different. It gets to the point where we realise that everything has the possibility of breaking, that 1=none, and 2=1 gets very heavy if you apply it to everything.
One would still need to check headspace with gauges though right? :confused:
Which gauges do you recommend?
Headspace most definetly. I use a field gauge.
toddackerman
11-17-07, 11:49
Headspace most definetly. I use a field gauge.
+1 on the firld gauge. It really is the onlt one you need to check "Critical" excessive head space. I have a "No- Go" as well, but it really is at the tighter of the toloerances, and good if you're fitting a new barrel and bolt.
Get the Mil. Field Gauge at Brownells.
Also do a search from AR15barrels.com on 'Head Space". Randy Rausch has gone to alot of effort posting here on this topic.
Not an actual AR part, but... broken shell extractor. Get one, put it in the weapon somewhere (pistol grip, foregrip, buttstock, whatever).
Not an actual AR part, but... broken shell extractor. Get one, put it in the weapon somewhere (pistol grip, foregrip, buttstock, whatever).
While I am short on most things mentioned here, I do have one of those as well. A necessity.
toddackerman
11-26-07, 21:31
While I am short on most things mentioned here, I do have one of those as well. A necessity.
I have to respectfully disagree.
A broken/ separated shell can be pushed out with a bore brush on your cleaning rod from the muzzle end.
I got a bad batch of Mil. brass shot from a SAW and found out the hard way. Because of the taper on the shell it comes out very easily, and you don't need to add another piece of equipment to your kit.
I have to respectfully disagree.
A broken/ separated shell can be pushed out with a bore brush on your cleaning rod from the muzzle end.
I got a bad batch of Mil. brass shot from a SAW and found out the hard way. Because of the taper on the shell it comes out very easily, and you don't need to add another piece of equipment to your kit.
Yes, you are correct. But the extractor is small and you can carry one easier, like in the gun as suggested.
I have a broken shell extractor, actually I have a bunch of them in different calibers but in about twenty years of working on M16 and AR15 rifles I think I have seen all of two cases where a shell head actually broke away from the cartridge case on these rifles.
Most of the time the extractor rips past the case rim and leaves the whole case stuck in the chamber.
Case head seperation occurs more frequently in machine guns than most service rifles but AKM and SKS extractors are aggressive enough to rip case heads off and a broken shell extractor is always a good gizmo to have on hand if you like to shoot these rifles while they are really dirty.
I am a big fan of having a sectional rod and a bottle of CLP handy while shooting, not for cleaning, but to pop the case out of the chamber while both are still warm and toasty, much easier than trying to free one after everything cools down.
These items are must haves for AR-M16 shooters.
I have to respectfully disagree.
A broken/ separated shell can be pushed out with a bore brush on your cleaning rod from the muzzle end.
I got a bad batch of Mil. brass shot from a SAW and found out the hard way. Because of the taper on the shell it comes out very easily, and you don't need to add another piece of equipment to your kit.
Not everyone carries a rod in the field.
toddackerman
11-27-07, 15:33
Not everyone carries a rod in the field.
I hear you, and agree. But, I'll bet that most here have a Cleaning Rod closer to their gun in the field than a broken case extractor. In my mind, IF cases are Breaking/ Separating, it's a PM issue (Rough or Dirty Chamber, too much extraction tension etc.), or the gun needs some TLC from someone who knows what's wrong, and how to fix it.
In relationship to Safety Hits original question, we're talking about stocking parts that are most likely to break (Not to split hairs, but a broken case extractor is a tool) no one can "Carry" all of these (parts or tools) on their rifle or body. FWIW I have never had a factory case separate in over 100,000 rounds of various caliber expended rounds. Granted, I don't shoot FA or SBR's. By my experience then...a broken case is not a "Most Likely to Break" scenario.
To support my point, every case (except one) that has separated in my 16" Middy has come right out with the next round being loaded into the chamber, lodging into the back of the broken case, and ejected with the CH. The one that didn't was a little more stubborn which required a brush and rod fix. Please remember this was a batch of brass from a SAW with a chamber as big around, and as deep as a Trash Can, so it was completely out of spec. before I reloaded it. (Shame on me for not measuring it first, because I would have caught it!)
These are just my thoughts. Everyone needs to carry what they feel comfortable with. I've always been a "Pack Rat" and am looking for ways to shed weight.
Peace.
Submariner
11-27-07, 17:43
No. I rarely take just one AR to class or out shooting. I'm talking about a broken bolt netting me one less AR since I don't keep a spare handy.
That's what TD VFG's are for!
Oops, wrong thread...:rolleyes:
To support my point, every case (except one) that has separated in my 16" Middy has come right out with the next round being loaded into the chamber, lodging into the back of the broken case, and ejected with the CH.
This happened to me as well. Not bad looking back, as it barely damaged the next round and came out fairly easily. But at the time I was both very concerned and very pissed. Thought I might have damaged something inside.
I hear you, and agree. But, I'll bet that most here have a Cleaning Rod closer to their gun in the field than a broken case extractor.
When I was incountry and carried an A2 stock I had a cleaning rod with me. Later when there was nowhere on the weapon to carryone I used a BCE JIK.
toddackerman
11-27-07, 18:54
This happened to me as well. Not bad looking back, as it barely damaged the next round and came out fairly easily. But at the time I was both very concerned and very pissed. Thought I might have damaged something inside.
I was concerned as well because it was the first malfunction of any kind on this platform at about 6,000 rounds. But remember...it was the "Poor Brass" and not the platform that failed. Again, factory ammo has never separated a case on me. This is why PM is necessary on a timely interval, and not waiting for a failure at the wrong time to realize you should have replaced a spring, an extractor, or a Mag. etc. when their useful life is in question. Search for a great thread on Preventative maintenance intervals for a guideline on when to change out parts that fail , and when.
For example.... I recently started to use a "Field Gauge" to monitor head space. I'm at 4,000 rounds with the current bolt and still GTG, but I check it every 500 rounds now, as well as really looking at the bolt under magnification searching for any possible cracks. I'll probably retire that bolt after 6,000 rounds or sooner if I find a problem. In all honesty for a Mid Length system, it will probably be good up to 8K to 10K rounds, but I don't want to chance it.
This kind of concern isn't for the "plinker" who could care less about the weapon being 100% reliable when they go for it in a life threatening situation.
I think you have a lot of good info. posted on this thread. Actually, I can't think of anything else, but I'm not an expert. Move forward, make your decisions based on the wealth of knowledge that many of the members have shared, and use it accordingly.
Naturally I have a sectional USGI rod/cleaning kit in the buttstock on my A2, but the broken shell extractor fits easily as well. Wish I had a rod that would fit in my VLTOR stock, though.
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