Question on TRX Alpha Rail [Archive]

View Full Version : Question on TRX Alpha Rail

saddlerocker

10-16-11, 19:23

Im new to rails and still trying to understand what fits what and how there all installed so bear with me......

So I see that Midway has the 11" and 13.8" Alpha rails with built in flip sight in stock. (Troys website says 13" Midway says 13.8")

On troys website it says that the 11" and 13" with flip up front sight, are not compatible with midlength gas systems.
Does the flip sight interfere with the gas block?
I dont care about the flip sight really, ill just wait for the ones without the front sight, but im curious why it doesnt work.

Id really like an Alpha rail because it uses the stock barrel nut, would it also slip over a cut/shaved FSB and flash hider? Meaning I would not have to remove anything from my barrel? (Besides cut off delta ring ect...)

Edit: Link Added...
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/549133/troy-industries-11-trx-alpha-battle-rail-modular-free-float-handguard-with-integral-flip-up-front-sight-ar-15-black

Zzzake

10-16-11, 19:55

This is the "note" on Troy's website: NOTE: 11″ Alpha Rails with built in sights are not compatible with mid length or intermediate length gas systems, 13″ Alpha Rails with built in sights are not compatible with Rifle length or Intermediate length gas systems.

So the 13" will work with regular mid length. Just not the intermediate length. I only know Noveske and KAC that have a inter-mid-length system (correct me if I am wrong).

If you do a search on URX II and mid length upper, you will see some pictures that the base of the flip up sight interfere with the top of the gas block and some people shave the gas block a bit to solve the issue. I would assume its the same for Alpha rail.

I been looking at the Alpha rail and the URX III for the next build too. So if anything I assumed if wrong, please let me know :)

saddlerocker

10-16-11, 20:30

Ok, Thanks for the clarification.
I guess I didnt really know what an intermediate gas system was.

If it can slip over a chopped FSB and the A2 flash hider I think I found my rail.

It was either chop my existing 16" middy and use the 13"Alpha or wait til I can afford a 14.5" mid and use the 11".
Since the 11" wont work with a mid I guess ill chop my existing 16" and use the 13".
Itll save me some money too, which is always a bonus

1911-A1

10-16-11, 21:24

I just hung a 13" Alpha on my BCM Midlength upper after cutting down the FSB. It fits just fine, you just need to do a few test-fits before you get it shaped just right.

saddlerocker

10-16-11, 21:42

1911-A1

10-17-11, 09:36

Great to hear.

So I wont need any special tools correct?
Ill just Dremel the FSB and cut away the delta ring asembly.
Then slide the rail on and tighten the screws?

I just wanna make sure theres no surprises.

Where did you get the Alpha?
And is it 13" or 13.8" as Midway lists?

Just take the barrel off and disassemble it. Cutting the delta ring is time consuming and exposes the barrel to potential unnecessary damage.

I used a hacksaw and $50 bench grinder from Walmart. Take the fsb off the barrel, pad it with cardboard, clamp it in a vise and make your cuts. Use the grinder to shape it. Don't forget to cool it off frequently. Don't bother with a dremel unless it's one of the really heavy duty models. FSBs are very strong.

I got my 13.8" alpha with the integral flip sight from bigsupplyshop.com. they had the best price I could find.

ra2bach

10-17-11, 12:38

Just take the barrel off and disassemble it. Cutting the delta ring is time consuming and exposes the barrel to potential unnecessary damage.

I used a hacksaw and $50 bench grinder from Walmart. Take the fsb off the barrel, pad it with cardboard, clamp it in a vise and make your cuts. Use the grinder to shape it. Don't forget to cool it off frequently. Don't bother with a dremel unless it's one of the really heavy duty models. FSBs are very strong.

I got my 13.8" alpha with the integral flip sight from bigsupplyshop.com. they had the best price I could find.

I gotta disagree. cutting the D-ring and pulling off the weld spring is a 10 minute job. tops...

1911-A1

10-17-11, 13:37

saddlerocker

10-17-11, 19:54

Cutting away the delta ring seems extremely easy and im not concerned with messing something up there.
The part that has me more worried is cutting and shaving the FSB while its on the barrel.
I dont have the tools to take everything apart like it should be done, and dont want to buy them at this point either.
And I dont wanna pay to send it somewhere (No gunsmiths close to me that have a clue)

The only reason I want the rail is to free float and to get the FSB out of the way of the red dot, I dont need to mount anything that I cant already do on my MOE handguards

I know its kind of a hack job to do it this way, thats why I might just continue to save and buy the tools or just buy a new 14.5" upper in the future.

I just wanted to know if it would work with this rail, hopefully by the time I make up my mind this rail is more widely available.

Edit, found this thread basically on the same thing.....
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?p=1116702

ra2bach

10-17-11, 20:27

What are you disagreeing with? I said it was time consuming compared to pulling the barrel and components. It is. cutting takes time and has the potential to nick or gouge something, even if superficially.

are you saying you can remove the barrel, FSB, and flashhider and reassemble in less than 10 mins?

msstate56

10-17-11, 21:34

are you saying you can remove the barrel, FSB, and flashhider and reassemble in less than 10 mins?

Who couldn't with the proper tools? I can easily pull a barrel, fsb, and barrel nut to remove the delta ring and weld spring faster than I can dremel it off.

1911-A1

10-18-11, 21:32

are you saying you can remove the barrel, FSB, and flashhider and reassemble in less than 10 mins?

Yes, I am.

If you're taking the FH and FSB off for grinding anyhow, pulling the barrel and removing the spring and ring is a simple and very quick process.