Glock 22 doesn't go into battery easily

[baffle Stack]

Today at the range i noticed my G22 wouldn't go back into battery after each shot unless i released the trigger past reset. Any Ideas what could cause this? It's an old police trade in so it has the NY trigger. It was going bang no problem but it was rather annoying having to take up all that trigger pull over and over again.:confused: :confused: :confused: Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Dport]

How old is the recoil spring?

I had this happen when I was messing around with low weigh competition springs from ISMI.

[baffle Stack]

It's old. I'll replace it and check back. Thanks Dport.

[Robb Jensen]

If you don't like the NY1 spring it can also be quite easily replaced with a standard Glock trigger spring.

[ST911]

Today at the range i noticed my G22 wouldn't go back into battery after each shot unless i released the trigger past reset. Any Ideas what could cause this? It's an old police trade in so it has the NY trigger. It was going bang no problem but it was rather annoying having to take up all that trigger pull over and over gain.:confused: :confused: :confused: Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Clean.

Remove any modifications or "improvements." OEM components, only.

If the problem isn't resolved, replace the recoil spring.

[baffle Stack]

If you don't like the NY1 spring it can also be quite easily replaced with a standard Glock trigger spring.


The glock disassembly tool is just a punch right? Changing out the spring shouldn't be much harder that punching out a few pins.:confused: I wanted to try the NY1/3.5# connector combo.

[Robb Jensen]

The glock disassembly tool is just a punch right? Changing out the spring shouldn't be much harder that punching out a few pins.:confused: I wanted to try the NY1/3.5# connector combo.

A 3/32 punch will work. You shouldn't need a hammer to remove the pins. Simple hand pressure will move them. Hammering on the pins will cause damage and may loosen the holes in the frame or damage the slide catch.

All pins should go out the right side of the frame and in from the right side.

Disassemble:
Remove the top small locking block pin first.
Then the rear plastic pin.
Then move the slide catch up and down and side to side while apply pressure from the tool.
Wedge the tool under the locking block and pull up in a forward motion (toward muzzle).
Once the locking block is out of the way just pull up on the ejector and then it and the trigger bar assy and ejector housing will come out.

Reassemble:
Drop trigger bar assy and ejector housing into the frame.
Install locking block.
Install small metal locking block pin.
Install rear plastic pin.
Install slide catch (making sure the spring is under the locking block pin), hold slide catch in place.
Install trigger pin (should click into place).

Test slide stop for function, it should snap down smartly.

[PLCedeno]

Common problem on my Glocks using NY1 trigger with worn recoil spring. Replace Recoils spring and the problem will go away but only for a short time. Replace NY1 with standard set up or have a batch of recoil springs ready.