View Full Version : Free float rail systems that are easily removed for maintenance?
Chris17404
11-08-11, 08:46
Hi all,
Are there some free float rail systems that lend themselves to easier end-user maintenance than others? I'm talking about rails that mount to the barrel nut (e.g. DD Lite, Larue, Omega X) and not the kind that bolt onto the top rail (e.g. KAC RAS II, CASV, etc). What's a rail that can be easily removed and re-installed without a lot of special tools? I assume a two-piece? Thanks for your time.
Chris
Why do you need to take it off?
Chris17404
11-08-11, 08:58
Why do you need to take it off?
While you're shooting, you could get mud and grime inside them and on the barrel that should be cleaned out.
I have a couple of DD Omegas and they come off fairly easily. It is just four flat head screws and then for allen screws.
Throughout the years I've not found the need to clean the barrel yet :)
My Omega X's bottom rail is easily removed.
While you're shooting, you could get mud and grime inside them and on the barrel that should be cleaned out.
I'm not against a rail that comes off. I just can't remember ever having to remove one of mine.
If I got mud in it, I'd hose it out.
Didn't you just make a thread about removable 2 piece rails and ashed how often you should clean under the hand guards?
Throughout the years I've not found the need to clean the barrel yet :)
My Omega X's bottom rail is easily removed.
That isn't the definition of a true removable bottom rail on a FF handgaurd.
The four set screws work in conjunction with one another on an Omega X. If you remove the bottom half and reinstall it, the rail will not be in the same position as before. Any laser sighting device you have mounted will loose zero.
If the OP is more worried about cleaning underneath a rail, then perhaps a non-free floated handguard/rail system is the answer.
If I get mud I just spray it with the hose. Thats all you need to do.
Anyway, the TRX is pretty easily removable, the VTac I believe is the same thing.
If I get mud I just spray it with the hose. Thats all you need to do.
I can't believe you would suggest something that stupid.
Why is that stupid?
Oh youre right, ARs melt when they get wet huh
Funny how he didn't jump down markm's throat when he suggested the same thing.
Why is that stupid?
Oh youre right, ARs melt when they get wet huh
Nightvisionary
11-08-11, 11:47
I just installed the Rainier Arms edition of the Samson Evolution 12.37 free float rail yesterday. It went on very easily and seems like it would be just as easy to remove. Just loosen two Torx screws and slide the rail off the heat sink that fits over the stock barrel nut.
Funny how he didn't jump down markm's throat when he suggested the same thing.
I didnteven know Mark suggested it.
Its literally the only way I have ever cleaned my rifles off.
Oh but I use mine everyweekend, and I dont keep them in the safe...I think thats when its bad for them. Safe queens cant get wet.
These guys are stupid....
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/navy_seals_02.jpg
And these guys?? Just ridiculous stupid
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/gty_navy_seals2_jef_110502_wg.jpg
When I've come back from an extra filthy trip (this has been like twice ever) I've hosed the dirt off of my A2 before I got to actual cleaning.
My guns get shot in the rain, etc.... I haven't had any water damage.
When I've come back from an extra filthy trip (this has been like twice ever) I've hosed the dirt off of my A2 before I got to actual cleaning.
My guns get shot in the rain, etc.... I haven't had any water damage.
Ya I guess we do stupid things.
I think the people that seldom use their rifles and spend all that time protecting it from every little scratch and moisture get more and more cautious of it getting any kind of damage.
There is NOTHING wrong with hosing off your rifle, just be sure to lube it afterwards and it GTG
I just want to point out that sometimes, once in a while, this happens....
Friend of mine years ago. It was raining mud in Iraq.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/dt1.jpg
That's not an AR obviously but you get the idea. Guess how that got cleaned? With a hose. Then it got hit with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Then it got thoroughly drenched in Eezox. No problems. No rust. Have fun cleaning that with an oily toothbrush Scotty.
I'm not advocating hosing off an AR all the time. But, in extreme situations, sometimes it's the only reasonable way. Just make sure you get it dry afterward and then saturate with a rust inhibitor.
Holy crap! What a mess. Reminds me of some show I saw on the Mil channel where once a year they make the USMC Harrier pilots do some grunt training.
These guys were digging fox holes in the rain and mud. Their M16s looked just like that mess above.
I didnteven know Mark suggested it.
Its literally the only way I have ever cleaned my rifles off.
Oh but I use mine everyweekend, and I dont keep them in the safe...I think thats when its bad for them. Safe queens cant get wet.
These guys are stupid....
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/navy_seals_02.jpg
And these guys?? Just ridiculous stupid
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/gty_navy_seals2_jef_110502_wg.jpg
They don't own their equipment.
When I was in Afghanistan we literally would take them in the shower trailer after missions and wash them before we lubed them.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
When I was in Afghanistan we literally would take them in the shower trailer after missions and wash them before we lubed them.
I've heard of this when using BFAs and Blanks.
They don't own their equipment.
And???
If they DID own their equipment then youre sayin they wouldnt get it wet?
Im having a hard time seeing your point.
Why was my suggestion stupid.
How do you clean your AR?
Or does it even get dirty enough to clean?
Maybe you shouldnt comment on things you dont know about.
And???
If they DID own their equipment then youre sayin they wouldnt get it wet?
Im having a hard time seeing your point.
Why was my suggestion stupid.
How do you clean your AR?
Or does it even get dirty enough to clean?
Maybe you shouldnt comment on things you dont know about.
Why do you feel the need to use water to clean a firearm?
Why do you feel the need to use water to clean a firearm?
Some times its the best or only option. For people who have concern about this, coating the barrel with Norrells or something similar can give them piece of mind for when they need to hose it out.
For other people, it will never be a need or concern.
Why do you feel the need to use water to clean a firearm?
Because its effective, Its WATER, not acid.
It doesnt negatively affect my weapons PERIOD.
Why do you feel the need to not answer my questions and comment HOW I clean my weapons?
Youre misinforming the community by discrediting my post when there is NOTHING wrong with my methods.
So I am interested to know, in war, or battle, or even in a neighborhood with police, when weapons are present and deployed...wht happens when it starts raining?
Do both sides simply call a time out or "Rain Delay"?
No. water doesnt hurt unles you dont lube it properly.
I think firearms are alot tougher than you give them credit for.
If you want to own safe queens and keep them safe from dust and humidity and WATER then so be it.
Some people use their rifles and water works well to clean them.
Failure2Stop
11-08-11, 14:07
Why do you feel the need to use water to clean a firearm?
Because it's non-toxic and free.
Dry it off and chase it with your protectant of choice.
Works grrrrrrreat
http://fatnewsfeed.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/frosties-tiger2.gif
Have also used hot water rinse following corrosive ammo use on many different weapons for a long time. Works well.
Not sure what your issue with the practice is.
PrivateCitizen
11-08-11, 14:19
… avoiding the water factor discussion: Centurion Arms, DD Omega.
As noted, any sighting device on the forearm will probably lose zero if this is done.
Nightvisionary
11-08-11, 19:56
When I've come back from an extra filthy trip (this has been like twice ever) I've hosed the dirt off of my A2 before I got to actual cleaning.
My guns get shot in the rain, etc.... I haven't had any water damage.
Barbasol shaving cream, a toothbrush and hot water from the shower head always got my weapon through I.G. inspection in the Marine Corps.
wild_wild_wes
11-08-11, 20:13
Its WATER, not acid.
H2O is the "Universal Solvent"...I learned that in school! :dance3:
I have both configurations of the Troy TRX rails and both come off very easily. The only problem with that is if you don't clock it exactly where it was, your irons will be off a bit. I made some small witness marks where the upper and rail meet, that makes it pretty simple to re-align. And, I just had it off to add a Noveske sling socket and I found some rust behind the gas block (damn Commie ammo!) so I'm glad I did.
As far as using water, lots of people who shoot Commie surplus 5.45 ARs, like I do, and they use hot water to clean their guns. Personally, I use Ballistol, but straight H2O works for them. I never miss any opportunity to shoot and a little rain certainly isn't going to stop me. So yes, I've had my guns completely doused and they've all made it through. One time we were shooting in a nice, warm, but torrential downpour and the shots left cool tunnels in the rain water.
ForTehNguyen
11-08-11, 20:58
They don't own their equipment.
yet their lives rely on this equipment
yet their lives rely on this equipment
Im pretty sure he has NO clue what hes talking about.
Maybe some of that stuff is issued, alot of them buy their own also.
On a comical note I watched the skull f#%#ing of a lifetime when a Joe was washing his gat under a water buffalo in basic by a brown round. Good times.
scoutfsu99
11-08-11, 23:48
Lol, there are times to bend the rules....and there are times not to...;)
Why do you feel the need to use water to clean a firearm?
I have been doing this for decades and have yet to see an issue with it.
Super hot, hooked in right near your water heater. Works great as a rinse to get all the Windex off MGs after shooting corrosive ammo as well.
I didn't see anything wrong with it. Still don't. I should also mention said ds didn't realize it had been pouring buckets on us all day and imt lanes at benning. Hind sight tells me he wanted them to work harder not smarter though. It was the first time ive seen an ach helmet get thrown at Joe and the expression your wrong as two boys getting it on in church. Only not with as much tact. Still makes me laugh today.
Entertaining thread. I like the DD MFR. 4 Set screws and it comes right off. Very light and sleek too.
I'm not against a rail that comes off. I just can't remember ever having to remove one of mine.
If I got mud in it, I'd hose it out.
QFT.
I do the same thing here. I recall a retention pond located on a range we taught a class in last summer. Someone inadvertently sticks their muzzle in the dirt? Swish it first (and then check, obviously). My rifle got covered in mud. What did I do? Waterhose it.
If someone is super anal about it, follow up with a few squirts of whatever lubrication/corrosion preventative through the handguard and onto the barrel.
I use guns as tools, not museum pieces. Act accordingly.
Have also used hot water rinse following corrosive ammo use on many different weapons for a long time. Works well.
When I have to, 'bone dry' a gun for whatever reason (such as duracoating/AHII/moly coating etc) I find that warm soapy water, a scrudge brush (rinse and repeat) followed by denatured alcohol or other such treatment is unmatched in both simplicity and ease.
Scotty, just when I start thinking you know what you're talking about you say something like this. The barrels on most ARs are parkerized, the BCG is parkerized, the springs are chrome silicon, the entirety of the FCG is parkerized or given some coating, and the receivers are aluminum. Please explain to me how any of those components are going to rust from simply hitting them with a bit of water as long as you dry them out (Compressed air works well for the nooks and crannies) and then oil and lube the individual parts. If you are properly oiling and lubing your rifle then there should be no problems as the parkerizing used will trap the oil within it creating a barrier between the water and the steel thus inhibiting the formation of rust.
Additionally, it is actually wiser to remove the mud and other sediment as soon as possible, as the acids and other minerals in the sediment are more likely to cause rust than the water. Additionally, I can name a circumstance where it is necessary to use water, and that is when your weapon has been submerged in saltwater. The only truly effective way that I know of to remove the salt and possibly sediment from the rifle is to hit it with freshwater. After the salt has been removed, you then dry off the rifle and properly oil it.
As for the OPs question, there are several different rails that you can take apart relatively easily, including the KAC RAS series, the KAC RIS series, the Centurion Rails, the Daniel Defense Omega X Rails, the Daniel Defense RIS II Rails, and I think you can take the lower rail off the URX II/III series (don't quote me on that, I don't own any rifles with that rail system).
Someone here mentioned using NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. IMO that's a mistake. Use the regular old non-hippified chlorinated version. Reason being two-fold: First, the non-chlorinated version flash-rusts my brake rotors, chlorinated version does not. Second, non-chlorinated burns my skin pretty bad, chlorinated not so much.
Regular old rubbing alcohol works real well as a water displacer too.
Someone here mentioned using NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. IMO that's a mistake. Use the regular old non-hippified chlorinated version. Reason being two-fold: First, the non-chlorinated version flash-rusts my brake rotors, chlorinated version does not. Second, non-chlorinated burns my skin pretty bad, chlorinated not so much.
Regular old rubbing alcohol works real well as a water displacer too.
Agreed.
Scotty, just when I start thinking you know what you're talking about you say something like this. The barrels on most ARs are parkerized, the BCG is parkerized, the springs are chrome silicon, the entirety of the FCG is parkerized or given some coating, and the receivers are aluminum. Please explain to me how any of those components are going to rust from simply hitting them with a bit of water as long as you dry them out (Compressed air works well for the nooks and crannies) and then oil and lube the individual parts. If you are properly oiling and lubing your rifle then there should be no problems as the parkerizing used will trap the oil within it creating a barrier between the water and the steel thus inhibiting the formation of rust.
Additionally, it is actually wiser to remove the mud and other sediment as soon as possible, as the acids and other minerals in the sediment are more likely to cause rust than the water. Additionally, I can name a circumstance where it is necessary to use water, and that is when your weapon has been submerged in saltwater. The only truly effective way that I know of to remove the salt and possibly sediment from the rifle is to hit it with freshwater. After the salt has been removed, you then dry off the rifle and properly oil it.
As for the OPs question, there are several different rails that you can take apart relatively easily, including the KAC RAS series, the KAC RIS series, the Centurion Rails, the Daniel Defense Omega X Rails, the Daniel Defense RIS II Rails, and I think you can take the lower rail off the URX II/III series (don't quote me on that, I don't own any rifles with that rail system).
Parkerizing and oil is not a real barrier for rust.
scoutfsu99
11-09-11, 08:42
So what's wrong with using water to help initially clean?
xjustintimex
11-09-11, 08:46
I washed my ar in the bathtub once and for the most part it didnt do anything. except I didnt lube the rifles nooks an crannies enough after and I did get some rusty screws on my rail. Also the gasblock screws rusted a little :suicide: but that was my fault for not throwing lube on them after. the rest of the rifle was fine. In other words.. water is fine if you do it right unlike me.
So what's wrong with using water to help initially clean?
Unless you are out in the field, with no other options, why do you feel the need to use water?
I can use various cans/bottles of solvent and an air compressor first.
I have a whole tank of solvent at home to submerge entire guns just for this scenario where they become covered in mud, snow, rain.
SuperiorDG
11-09-11, 09:52
There is a tread on here somewhere that goes into detail about cleaning your AR with water. It has me now cleaning mine with water.
scoutfsu99
11-09-11, 10:18
Unless you are out in the field, with no other options, why do you feel the need to use water?
I can use various cans/bottles of solvent and an air compressor first.
I have a whole tank of solvent at home to submerge entire guns just for this scenario where they become covered in mud, snow, rain.
Most people don't have solvent tanks sitting in their homes.
I've used water twice on my ARs. I don't do it more b/c I have more time to clean my weapons here (but I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I felt like it). I don't have to jump through 5 different hoops just to sign my weapon out of the arms room. Cleaning it with water is an expeditious way to maximize your time. I don't think I would spray my weapon if I was in the field. I'd wipe away the gunk and lube back up.
I use water all the time on my issued weapon due to those reasons. You're catching flak/questions because of your rigid denial of being able to use water. I still don't get why you think it's so harmful.
Most people don't have solvent tanks sitting in their homes.
I've used water twice on my ARs. I don't do it more b/c I have more time to clean my weapons here (but I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I felt like it). I don't have to jump through 5 different hoops just to sign my weapon out of the arms room. Cleaning it with water is an expeditious way to maximize your time. I don't think I would spray my weapon if I was in the field. I'd wipe away the gunk and lube back up.
I use water all the time on my issued weapon due to those reasons. You're catching flak/questions because of your rigid denial of being able to use water. I still don't get why you think it's so harmful.
Because it causes rust. Why is that so hard for you to understand?
Water + Air + Steel = Rust
I don't care how dry to think you can get it after using water. You can't get the water out of every corner and crack.
Using an air compressor after using water will flash rust parts as it introduces more air into the equation.
Here's the bottom line. If you can avoid using water to clean your AR, do it.
If it is absolutely covered in mud like the M249 I posted earlier, use water since it is for most people the only reasonable solution. If you do use water, be sure to thoroughly dry and heavily coat the whole weapon inside and out with a rust inhibitor.
Fair?
I don't know why you would clean with water every day if you're using non-corrosive ammunition. That is certainly overkill and you're asking for rust, especially on the small detent springs in your lower. I never advocated making cleaning with water a daily ritual. That's unnecessary and silly.
Saying to NEVER clean with water is equally dumb. If your AR looks like the SAW I posted, it's already been soaked. It's already been rained on. It's already muddy. Cleaning said mud off with water is not going to cause any more problems because it's already been soaked. It will, however, get rust causing elements in the mud off the gun sooner. This is a good application for using water.
As usual, the truth lies between two extremes. You have Scotty Ryan saying to never use water and you have others using it every day. Halfway between those two positions lies the reasonable answer.
scoutfsu99
11-09-11, 10:38
And yet people use water everyday scott. I've yet to have any rust pop up on my weapon. Lots of people in this thread are saying the same thing. People who's lives depend on the weapon they carry. I don't see why that is so hard for you to understand either. But whatever, roll how you want to roll. You have your ways, we have ours.
Because it causes rust. Why is that so hard for you to understand?
Water + Air + Steel = Rust
I don't care how dry to think you can get it after using water. You can't get the water out of every corner and crack.
Using an air compressor after using water will flash rust parts as it introduces more air into the equation.
It sounds like you are using second hand knowledge to formulate your opinion. I live in the Pacific Northwest in the rainy city. Seattle. I go shooting ALL THE TIME when it is drizzling, pouring, foggy, and generally wet. There is water everywhere. I have yet to see a spec of rust on any of my rifles and I don't even wipe them off after any of my range trips.
So which is it? Trust the guy that has more hooded jackets than REI because of the water literally falling out of the air, saturating everything, or scottryan?
I clean mine with water :lol:
Water+aluminum+air = Wet aluminum
Water + steel + air + oil = Properly cleaned weapon
ghostman1960
11-09-11, 11:49
Reading this shit reminds me of my ex wife. She would pick a fight over anything. Its amazing how on this and other boards simple questions turn into heated arguments over mere differences of opinion.
I don't care if someone pisses on their gun to clean it. Its their gun not mine. Why bother wasting your time and bandwidth arguing over it? No ones mind is going to change.
http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/ghostman1961/duty_calls.png
I'm going to start tossing my ARs in the bed of my truck and running them through the car wash. ;)
I'm going to start tossing my ARs in the bed of my truck and running them through the car wash. ;)
Thats a good idea.
My wife is getting mad when I wash the dishes and my rifle at the same time....That little hose just works so good though!
I'm going to start tossing my ARs in the bed of my truck and running them through the car wash. ;)
Do make sure it has the spot-free rinse option! ;)
PrivateCitizen
11-09-11, 12:42
Because it causes rust. Why is that so hard for you to understand?
Water + Air + Steel = Rust
I don't care how dry to think you can get it after using water. You can't get the water out of every corner and crack.
Using an air compressor after using water will flash rust parts as it introduces more air into the equation.
This is a little over-thought … Rinsing and drying are NOT the same as continued exposure.
I have shot in absolute downpours that wetted out the rifle every bit as much as a hose off would. Shake it off, drive on.
The handwringing over this is beyond reason.
Guys, my car was subjected to some water recently. Should I be concerned? I do not want it to look like this tomorrow.
http://www.sciencephoto.com/image/356167/530wm/T7450059-Rusty_car-SPL.jpg
Troy MRF's bottom rail removes by removing 1 allen head screw from the bottom and sliding it off. As for the water issue...
I was deer hunting a year ago with my Winchester 1300 12 gauge. I It was pissing rain the whole time and on top of that, I fell in a 3' deep creek while trying to cross it on a fallen tree. Shotgun was submerged. I took it home and detail stripped it, oiled it, and to this day there is not a spec of rust on it.
Sandy vagina day? If he wants to be a weirdo and spend more money cleaning his gun than he should, game on Donkey Kong. I don't care what he uses. I use water and follow it up with a coating of G96. No rust, not fuss and smells grreat.
To the OP, Centurion's options are VERY high on my list.
[QUOTE=mhanna91;1139505]Troy MRF's bottom rail removes by removing 1 allen head screw from the bottom and sliding it off.QUOTE]
Have you ever used the TRX?
I wanna know how it compares with the MRF
The handwringing over this is beyond reason.
Quoted For Truth.
mkmckinley
11-10-11, 03:29
DD Lite rails are easy to take down for cleaning and are great rails in and of themselves.
[QUOTE=mhanna91;1139505]Troy MRF's bottom rail removes by removing 1 allen head screw from the bottom and sliding it off.QUOTE]
Have you ever used the TRX?
I wanna know how it compares with the MRF
I don't own a TRX but I have played with one, just not extensively. Much slimmer and lighter than my MRF. If you don't mind adding weight and a little bulk (assuming you use rail covers like KAC's or XTMs) to get the full quad rail, and if it is what you are looking for, then go for it. The thing I like the most about the MRF is the solid mounting system. Heads and shoulders above the TRX in my opinion, and it uses the rifle's factory barrel nut. If you have seen Centurion's rails, it is basically identical to the MRF, except the MRF does not leave part of the barrel nut exposed (not sure why Centurion did that). The TRX I played with had me wondering about the clamp-style mount they use, but that comes down to personal preference. The MRF is a little heavier than offerings from DD and Centurion, but the thing is built (and mounted) like a tank. The TRX is much lighter, and more comfortable probably. On top of that, there is no need to slap rail covers on it. If I could swap my rail for something different, I would look hard at Centurion's offerings or a TRX. But I am happy with my MRF and it is staying put.
I am still waiting for the prefect rail that has a removable bottom, anti rotation sling sockets, no integral front sight, and compatible with KAC panels.
KAC could of had this 5 years ago with the URX but they can't seem to get their shit together.
They make an 8" URX3 like this now for AAC but are not making it in 9" or 10".
DD Lite rails are easy to take down for cleaning and are great rails in and of themselves.
It's "only" six bolts but I get irritated every time I install/uninstall one, especially if there's loctite on them. Maybe DD uses an extra long wobble hex bit on the production line.
The DD RIS II has a removable bottom but I've never taken mine off to clean the barrel. I got it because the bottom rail is tucked in which makes the hand guard easier to grip the circumference.
The DD MFR is a lot more secure than the Troy Extreme TRX but is a pain to line up correctly since it uses 4 screws that pulls the rail to the receiver. It's very easy to install/remove though.
CarlosDJackal
11-10-11, 09:24
Samson Evolution is installed and removed by tightening up two bolts. It slides on and off a heat sink.
As has been mentioned, removing your rail will jack up your sight alignment on irons, or any laser or anything.
For as paranoid as Scotty is, I hope he's never been on the range when it rains. After all, if you can never get water out of every nook and cranny, your rifle is destined to rust away on you (apparently).
For as paranoid as Scotty is, I hope he's never been on the range when it rains. After all, if you can never get water out of every nook and cranny, your rifle is destined to rust away on you (apparently).
I think he might keep it in a safe...with boxes of baking soda and bags and bags of desacant....and DE-humidifiers, which in turn gets placed in another safe...with boxes of baking soda :lol:
Let's build a bridge, so we can get over the water.
Move it along.
I cannot believe how ****ing silly this has become. I mean, really?
hotrodder636
11-11-11, 07:44
I have a couple of DD Omegas and they come off fairly easily. It is just four flat head screws and then for allen screws.
Have to agree here....there are 4 hex setscrews and 4 flatheads.....about as easy as it gets if you ask me...
PLEASE REMOVE, DOUBLE POST
hotrodder636
11-11-11, 07:45
I have a couple of DD Omegas and they come off fairly easily. It is just four flat head screws and then for allen screws.
Have to agree here....there are 4 hex setscrews and 4 flatheads.....about as easy as it gets if you ask me...
I have one and it only took a few minutes to install and set/adjust.
hotrodder636
11-11-11, 08:17
They don't own their equipment.
What the **** does that have to do with it?!?! Their LIVES and those of others RELY on that equipment!!!!
STUPID, just STUPID....
hotrodder636
11-11-11, 08:30
Because it causes rust. Why is that so hard for you to understand?
Water + Air + Steel = Rust
I don't care how dry to think you can get it after using water. You can't get the water out of every corner and crack.
Using an air compressor after using water will flash rust parts as it introduces more air into the equation.
You are right...you CAN"T get all the water out...
A life lesson, especially since I have lived in Nebraska and know how humid it can get, at least in Omaha....
HUMIDITY is IN the air (ie WATER) therefore most of the time in contact with the weapon......
Furthermore, you risk rust/corrosion damage to a weapon by touching it with bare (possibly sweaty...ie salt + water) skin...
You are right...you CAN"T get all the water out...
A life lesson, especially since I have lived in Nebraska and know how humid it can get, at least in Omaha....
HUMIDITY is IN the air (ie WATER) therefore most of the time in contact with the weapon......
Furthermore, you risk rust/corrosion damage to a weapon by touching it with bare (possibly sweaty...ie salt + water) skin...
Anyone have the deadhorse emotion. If you scroll up directly above your posts you will notice that this water debate was settled. Now you look like an asshole. Not trying to be rude but its the internet don't get so worked up.
justin_247
11-12-11, 07:17
Anyone have the deadhorse emotion. If you scroll up directly above your posts you will notice that this water debate was settled. Now you look like an asshole. Not trying to be rude but its the internet don't get so worked up.
http://jeffbaij.com/blog/images/deadhorse.gif
Animal_Mother556
11-12-11, 07:46
Some dude I know has just installed a Troy TRX. He said it was easy cheesy to take off. Just the two screws on the bottom, rotate a little bit, and there she comes.
As for the water thing (I know, I know, I know, I know...please don't kill me)...I just HAVE to say that a pan of hot water (Maybe not near boiling...but perty darn hot) is GREAT for cleaning 870 trigger groups. Just dip 'em in for a little bit.
hotrodder636
11-12-11, 09:01
Sorry about beating the dead-horse, then making glue...LOL...
I don't handle stupid very well:suicide2:
Sorry about beating the dead-horse, then making glue...LOL...
I don't handle stupid very well:suicide2:
Alls well right.
As for the rail debate I wouldn't worry about much getting in there that you can't get out with it on. Our work m4s seemed to get put through Hell quite often. All I needed to do was take the bottom rail off. So my recommendation would be the dd ris II series.
Sorry about beating the dead-horse, then making glue...LOL...
I don't handle stupid very well:suicide2:
...so it was your personal go-code to post some of your own...
Given that TWO moderators said to let it go, and that you decided that you have enough juice to casually ignore that, I doubt the sincerity of your apology.
Nice sig. Lana, it's a rampage.
I'm personally still waiting for Centurion to make a real cut out C4 and not just the either side of the fsp.
Nice sig. Lana, it's a rampage.
I'm personally still waiting for Centurion to make a real cut out C4 and not just the either side of the fsp.
Ya and an 11" RAIL!!
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